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BY    G.    C.    TENNEY 


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International  Tract  Society 

CHICAGO  battle   CREEK  LONDON 

ILL.  MICH.  ENG. 

1895  


Entered  according  .to  Act  of  Congress,   in  the  year   1895,    by 

THE   INTERNATIONAL   TRACT   SOCIETY, 
In  the  ot!ke  of  the  Librarian  of   Congress,  Washington,  D.  C. 


ALL   RIGHTS   RESERVED. 


PREFACE. 


O  SOME  it  may  appear  that  every  plausible  excuse  for  writing  books 

of  travel  has  been  worn  out.     But  this  is  not  the  case.      It  is  true 

that  the  beaten  paths  have  been  worn  quite  deep,  but  there  is  still 

plenty  of  untrodden  room.     The  spirit  of  our  age  is  drawing  nations  and 

men  into  a  closer  union,  and  a  better  knowledge  of  each  other.     Travel 

and  books  of  travel  are  the  great  agents  of  this  transforming  genius. 

We   have  come  to  the  time  of  which  an  inspired   prophet  wrote : 

"Many  shall  run  to  and  fro;    and  knowledge  shall  be  increased."     The 

knowledge  of  our  fellow-beings,  of  their  circumstances,  of  the  advantages 

they  possess,  and  of  the  disadvantages  under  which   they  live,  furnishes 

the  best  possible  basis  for  a  life  of  usefulness.     The  object  of  this  book 

is  to  contribute  somewhat  to  this  knowledge. 

While  the  writer  follows,  to  some  extent,  the  highways  of  travel,  it 

has  been  his  purpose,  both  in  description  and  illustration,  to  pass  rapidly 

over  the  more  familiar  scenes  of  Europe  and  America,  thinking  that  our 

limited  pages  could  better  be  devoted  to  those  regions  more  remote  from 

the  majority  of  the  readers.     In  text  and  picture  the  author  follows  the 

actual  course  of  his  travel,  and  the  scenes  of   his  observation,  with  but 

little  deviation.     The  majority  of  the  illustrations  being  reproductions  of 

photographs,  are   true  to  life.      These  being  representative,   rather  than 

extraordinary,  are  intended  to  impart  a  faithful  idea  of  the  various  phases 

of  life  in  the  countries  visited. 

G.  C.  T. 

1* 


TABLE    OF    CONTENTS. 


Page. 

Leaye-takixg       .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .11 

Out  of  the  Western  Door      .         .         .  .         .  .  .  19 

The  Hawaiian  Islands        .....  .  .     25 

The  Island  World  ........  35 

Pitcairn       ...........     45 

New  Zealand  .........  55 

Scenery  of  New  Zealand  ........     65 

Australia        ..........  75 

Natural  and  Social  Peculiarities     ......     83 

Sidney  in  Particular      ........  93 

The  Southern  Metropolis  ........     99 

Sights  and  Scenes  in  Australia    .         .         .         .         .         .107 

A  Brief  History         .         .         .         ,  .         .         .117 

Other  Colonies        .........        125 

A  General  View  .........   135 

Leaying  Australia  .         .         .  .  .  .         .         .143 

Ceylon  ...........   148 

Buddhism  ...,..,...        157 

Sights  in  Colombo  and  Madras  ,         .         .         .         .165 

From  Madras  to  the  Himalayas    ......        175 

Among  the  Mountains  .  ,  .         ,         .  .         .185 

Glancing  oyer  India       .  .  .         .  .  .194 

Journey  Resumed         ........   203 

In  and  About  Calcutta  .         .         .         .210 

L3J 


4  CONTENTS. 

Up  the  Ganges  Valley       ........  222 

Farther  Inland       .........  233 

Delhi  to  Bombay         .         . 250 

Adieu  India     ..........  265 

India  to  Egypt   ..........  271 

Egypt 281 

Alexandria  to  Jerusalem     .......  293 

Round  About  Jerusalem    .......  307 

Jerusalem  and  Bethlehem    .......  325 

Italy   ...........  341 

Rome  .    .    .    .  '  .    .    .    .    .    .    .    .  350 

Homeward  and  Backward   .......  369 


LIST  OF   ILLUSTRATIONS, 


Page. 

Absalom's  Pillar       .         .         .         .         .         ,         .         .         .318 

Adelaide,   South  Australia           ......  126 

A  Fakir 211 

A  Fiji  Chief           .........  48 

Agra  ............  236 

Albert  Park,   Auckland       .         .         .         .         .         .         .  54 

A  Maori  Chief           . 58 

Ancient  Umber      .........  253 

A  Street  in  Rotterdam    ........  374 

Australian  Bear  .........  113 

Australian  Natives  .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .136 

Banana  Grove       .........  34 

Ballarat  in  Gold  Fields           .......  116 

Bathing  in  the  Sacred  Eiver      ......  212 

Baths  of  Caracalla,  Rome       .......  357 

Benares          ..........  223 

Bethlehem    ..........  336 

Beyrout    .    .    .   ' .    .    .    .    .    .    .  296 

Boats  on  the  River  Ganges     .         .         .         .         .         .         .178 

Bombay           ..........  261 

Botanical  Gardens,   Adelaide           ......  129 

Bounty  Bay,  Pitcairn  ........  47 

Buddhist  Temple,   Colombo        .         .  .  .         .  .         .162 

Burning  Ghat,   Benares        .......  214 

Cairo 286 

Calcutta  from  the  Maidan           .         .          .         .         .         .  191 

Cashmere  Gate,  Delhi,  Showing  Marks  of  Siege  in  1857        .  247 

Castle  of  Chillon         ........  386 

Cheops        .         .         .- .  292 

Citadel  Mosque,   Cairo          .......  302 


6  LIST   OF  ILLUSTRATION'S. 

Collins  Street,  Melbourne       .......  104 

Cologne  Cathedral       ........  391 

Colosseum  and  Via  Sacra         .......  3-55 

Coral  Island         .........  36 

Council  Chamber       .........  124 

Crater  op  Kilauea       ........  26 

Crossing  the  Rockies         ........  15 

Dalhousie  Square  and  Secretariat,   Calcutta    .          .         .  218 

David's  Tower,   Jerusalem        .......  300 

Deserted  Palace,    Umber      .         .          .         .          .         .         .  256 

Drying  Macaroni        .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .  368 

Eden  Gardens,   Pagoda          .......  186 

Ehrenbreitstein  on  the  Rhine           ......  388 

Elbe  River,  Hamburg  ........  376 

Elephanta  Caves,  Bombay  Haregr           .....  263 

Emus 113 

Father  Nile       ..........  283 

Ferns 108 

Fiji  Dance  .         .         .         .         .         .         .         •         -         .50 

Fiji  War  Canoe 52 

Gateway  to  the  Husainabad  Mosque,  Lucknow      .         .         .  234 

Gateway  to  the  Taj    ........  238 

Gathering  Cocoanuts         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .  39 

Gisborne,   New  Zealand        .......  60 

Grass  Huts,  Hawaii          .......  28 

Hall  of  Private  Audience  .......  244 

High  Caste  Hindu  Children     .......  184 

Hobart,   Tasmania          ........  132 

Honolulu  ...........  30 

House  of  Simon,  Jaffa    .    .    . '   .    .    .    .  308 

House  and  Family  in  Colombo     .    ,    .    .    ...  166 

Hyde  Park,  Sydney   ........  74 

Image  of  Buddha   .........  159 

In  the  Snow     .........  12 

Jaffa    ...........  298 

Jerusalem   ..........  308 

Jessamine  Tower,  Agra  Fort  .......  249 

Jeypore     ..........  251 


LIST   OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Kangaroos.         ...... 

King  Bii.ly     .  .         .         . 

King  George's  Sound,   ^yEST  Australia    . 

KUTAB    MiNAR  ..... 

Laughing  Jackass     ..... 

Launceston    ...... 

London  Bridge  ...... 

London  Tower        ..... 

Lucerne,   Switzerland        .... 

LuTHERs  Room  in  the  Wartburg 

Lyttleton,   New  Zealand 

Maori  Salutation  .... 

Memorial  Gardens  and  AVell,  Cawnpore 
Milan  Cathedral  .... 

MiLFORD  Sound,   New  Zealand 
Modern  Jericho     ..... 

Mosque  of  Omar        ..... 

Mosque  of  Omar,   Interior   . 

Mount  of  Olives       .         .         .         .         . 

Murray  River       ..... 

Naples,   Vesuvius  in  the  Distance  . 

On  the  Road  to  the  Pyramids     . 

On  the  St.   Gotthard  Route     . 

Ormond  College,   Melbourne 

Our  Steamer  at  Samoa     .... 

Parliament  House,   Brisbane 
Parliament  House,  Melbourne 
Parse e  Family       ..... 

PiTCAIRN      ....... 

Point  de  Galle        .         .  .         . 

Pompey's  Pillar,  Alexandria 

Prince's  Bridge,   Melbourne 

Pundita  Ramabai's  School,  Poonah,  India 

"Queen  Lil"      ' 

QUEENSTOWN,     NeW    ZeALAND 

Queen  Street,   Auckland 

Rachel's  Tomb  .  .         .         .       ,. 

Residency'  Ruins,   Lucknow   . 


112 
142 

90 
200 
115 
140 
370 
372 
362 
381 

68 

62 
232 
364 

64 
311 
328 
332 
340 

86 
344 
294 
366 
110 

41 
144 
120 
278 

44 
150 
305 
100 
206 

32 

57 

68 
339 
228 


8  LIST   OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Railway  Station  at  Bombay         ......  268 

Rhine  Falls,   Schaffhausen      .......  383 

Rosenberg  Castle,   Copenhagen    ......  378 

Ruins  of  Pompeii,  Vesuvius  in  the  Bacxgrounu      .          .         .  348 

Samoan  Belles       .........  42 

Scene  in  Hawaii        .........  22 

Scene  in  Oakland          ........  18 

Sistine  Chapel,   St.   Peter's      .......  360 

South  Sea  Island  Home        .......  46 

Street  Scene  in  Jerusalem       .......  324 

St.   Martin's  Church,   Naples        .          .    -      .         .         .          .  346 

Street  Scene  in  Colombo  .  .  .  .  .154 

Suez  Canal    ..........  280 

Suttee  Chauri  Ghat          .         .          .          .          .         .          .          .  230 

Sydney  Heads       ..          .          .          .          .          .         .          .          .  78 

Sydney  from  North  Shore         .......  82 

Sydney  Town  Hall        ........  94 

Tahitian  Girls           .........  51 

Tea  Garden  near  Darjeeling       ......  172 

Territet,  Geneva  Lake    ........  384 

The  Darjeeling  Railway      .......  182 

The  Dead  Sea 314 

The  Golden  Temple,   Benares       ......  225 

The  Great  Mosque,  Delhi        .......  259 

The  Jordan 321 

The  Pearl  Mosque    .....                  ...  273 

The  Roman  Forum,   Looking  West         .....  352 

The  Roman  Forum,   Looking  East     ......  353 

The  Sphinx 289 

The  Taj 239 

The  Wartburg  Castle           .......  380 

Tomb  of  Itmud-ed-Doula,   Agra         ......  241 

Tomb  of  Akbar  near  Agra           ......  261 

Truganini,   Last  of  the  Tasmanians         .....  134 

Wellington    ..........  70 

Westminster  Abbey  .........  373 

White  Terraces 81 

Women  Grinding         .                  .         .         .         .         ....         .  209 


LAND  AND  SEA 


LEAVETAKING. 


^.^^^pl^EAVING  HOME "  is  one  of  the  sad  experiences 
of  this  life  with  which  all  are  more  or  less  familiar. 
The  uncertainty  that  enshrouds  earthly  experiences 
'^-^^^r^  in  prospect  helps  much  to  make  it  what  it  is.  When 
one  leaves  his  fireside,  even  for  a  day's  labor,  there  is  an 
anxiety  for  his  return  that  is  most  fully  expressed  in  the 
joyous  home-coming  at  evening.  The  joy  of  his  presence  is 
heightened  by  gratitude  for  his  escape  from  the  possible  evils 
that  swarm  around  every  path  in  life.  Much  more,  then, 
when  hundreds  and  thousands  of  leagues  of  unknown  ways 
lie  before  the  traveler,  do  feelings  of  sadness  and  forebodings 
hover  over  him  as  he  crosses  the  threshold  of  home  with  the 
purpose  of  putting  the  whole  world  between  him  and  that 
loved    spot. 

In  mid-winter,  farewells  were  said  to  friends  in  the  central 
part  of  the  United  States,  and  we  entered  upon  the  first  stage 
of  our  journey  en  route  to  the  Pacific  coast.  That  winter 
was  an  unusually  severe  one.  The  last  night  of  travel  east 
of  the  Missouri  river  was  well  calculated  to  leave  a  lastimr 
impression  of  what  a  Minnesota  and  Iowa  winter  can  be.  A 
lively  blizzard  raged,  and  the  cold  was  intense.  It  was  with 
difficulty  that  the  train  made  any  progress.  At  times  the 
wheels  would  struggle  with  the  accumulated  snow,  going- 
slower  and  slower  till  they  surrendered,  and  then  we  would 
wonder  what  next.  But  by  dint  of  shoveling  and  some  vig- 
orous   ramming    with    the    small    snow-plow   attached    to    the 

(11) 


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A  NIGHT  IN  THE  SNOW.  13 

engine,  the  bond  would  be  broken,  and  we  proceeded.  Inside 
the  cars  it  was  impossible  to  keep  warm ;  and  between  shiver- 
ing with  the  cold  and  shaking  with  an  apprehension  of  being 
derailed  by  the  jolting  and  jerking  of  the  train,  we  were 
almost  pnt  out  of  joint  with  ourselves.  This  experience  did 
much  to  alleviate  the  pain  of  separation  which  one  naturally 
feels  when  leaving  the  land  of  his  childhood,  even  for  a  tem- 
porary sojourn  in  warmer  latitudes. 

As  the  storm  on  that  nio'ht  was  in  its  earlier  stao-es,  the 
drifting  snow  did  not  compel  a  resort  to  such  means  as  are 
shown  in  the  illustration  opposite  this  page.  But  it  is  not 
uncommon  in  the  northern  States,  where  the  snow  falls  deep, 
to  see  three  or  four  powerful  locomotives  with  a  gigantic  snow 
l^low  in  front,  pushing  their  way  through  drifts,  while  the  snow 
flies  in  small  avalanches  on  either  side.  Such  a  scene  is  full 
of  excitement  to  the  beholders,  and  is  fraught  with  danger  to 
the  engine-men  who  can  only  crowd  on  steam  and  rush  blindly 
forward  with  all  the  force  those  great  machines  can  muster. 
When  at  last  they  can  go  no  farther,  they  are  reversed,  backed 
up  a  mile  or  so,  and  then  with  full  fury  are  rammed  into  the 
yielding  snow. 

From  Kansas  City  our  course  was  by  the  Santa  Fe 
route.  We  were  soon  hurried  over  the  level  plains  of 
Kansas,  and  out  of  the  region  of  snow,  except  for  the  high 
lands  of  New  Mexico  and  Arizona.  This  was  in  the  early 
days  of  the  "  tourist  sleepers."  These  cars  were  without  any 
upholstery,  and  so  constructed  that  the  seats  could  be  con- 
verted into  berths  at  night,  and  a  hanging  berth  above  would 
be  let  down,  thus  furnishing  sleeping  accommodations  equal  to 
the  seating  capacity.  Each  passenger  provided  his  own  bed- 
ding and  cared  for  it.  In  each  end  of  the  car  were  capacious 
stoves  on  which  water  might  be  heated  and.  some  of  the  simpler 
forms  of  culinary  work  carried  on.     Thus  we  passed  five  days 


14  LEA  VE-  TA  KING. 

and  nights  eating,  sleeping,  reaxling.  A'isiting,  or  writing,  in  an 
nnbroken  journey  to  Los  Angeles  in  southern  California. 

The  monotony  of  the  scenery  of  this  trip  is  so  nearly 
complete  that  but  little  need  be  said  on  that  score.  On  the 
plains  of  Arizona  some  remarkable  rock  palisades  are  to  be 
seen.  On  nearly  all  the  trans-continental  routes  there  are  at 
least  a  few  points  of  special  interest,  but  generally  they  are 
far  between ;  besides,  these  are  so  quickh'  passed  that  the}' 
leave  but  a  faint  impression  on  the  mind.  The  mountains 
crossed  by  these  railways  are  very  disappointing  to  nearly  all 
who  see  them  for  the  first  time  after  havina'  heard  so  much  of 
the  glories  of  the  Rockies  and  the  Sierras.  The  explanation 
of  this  fact  is  that  in  locating  these  lines  the  precipitous,  por- 
tions of  the  mountains  are  avoided,  and  the  low  passes  with 
long  gradual  approaches  are  selected  because  they  are  so 
much  more  feasible  for  railways.  Thus  one  hardly  realizes, 
as  he  listens  hour  after  hour  to  the  labored  puffing  of  the 
engine,  that  he  is  climbing  those  famous  mountains  which 
form  America's  backbone.  When  he  is  told  that  the  train 
has  at  last  reached  the  altitude  of  from  seven  to  ten  thousand 
feet,  he  sees  in  his  surroundings  nothing  to  indicate  that  fact, 
except  it  be  that  the  clouds  are  very  low,  and  there  are 
patches  of  snow  lying  about. 

The  extensive  lava  beds  over  which  this  road  passes  in 
Arizona  are  quite  remarkable  ;  but  that  which  made  the  deepest 
impression  upon  my  mind  was  the  Mojave  (Mo-hav-e)  desert, 
which  we  entered  after  crossing  the  Colorado  River  into 
California.  This  vast  plain  seems  to  be  densely  covered  with 
a  rank  growth  of  cacti  of  every  shape  and  variety.  The  plants 
attain  a  prodigious  size,  and  stretch  out  their  arms  in  every 
direction  as  if  inviting  unsuspecting  victims  to  enter  their  em- 
brace. Woe  to  the  one  who  accepts  the  mute  invitation,  for  at 
every  point  these  plants  are  armed  with  cruel   stings  which 


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1 6  LEA  VE-  TAKING. 

pierce  the  flesh,  causing  pain  and  a  burning  sensation.  They 
cling  to  their  victims  with  great  tenacity.  But,  as  if  to  add 
to  their  attractiveness,  on  the  extremities  of  these  wicked 
arms  they  bear  the  most  gorgeous  and  lovely  blossoms.  It  is 
hard  to  realize  that  there  is  such  fiendish  cruelty  beneath 
them ;    but  appearances  often  deceive. 

What  the  cactus  is  to  the  plant  world,  Satan  is  to  the 
human  ftxmily.  In  this  sinful  world  he  awaits  with  out- 
stretched arms  the  victims  of  his  cruel  designs.  His  snares 
are  embellished  with  beauty  and  gaudy  show  with  which  to 
allure  the  unwary.  When  the  unsuspecting  youth  passes 
within  reach  of  his  grasp,  he  holds  him  with  all  his  power, 
and  takes  a  fiendish  delight  in  his  torture  and  final  destruction. 
There  are  thousands  of  ways  in  this  life  which  seem  novel, 
attractive,  and  right  enough,  but  whose  end  is  death. 

The  grandest  feature  of  railway  engineering  which  this 
route  presents  is  found  in  the  celebrated  Tehachipi  Pass 
through  which  the  Southern  Pacific  railway  enters  the  San 
Joaquin  Valley  from  the  south.  From  an  altitude  of  over 
three  thousand  feet  the  road  rapidly  descends  by  loops  and 
tunnels,  which  afford  many  grand  and  awe-inspiring  views. 
The  San  Joaquin  Valley  lies  between  the  Sierra  Nevada 
Mountains,  which  form  the  eastern  boundary  of  California  and 
the  Coast  Range,  which  runs  nearly  parallel,  leaving  a  valley 
of  an  averao-e  width  of  about  125  miles  and  over  300  in 
length ;  through  the  midst  of  it,  flows  the  river  from  which 
the  valley  takes  its  name.  This  valley  was  a  few  years  ago 
used  by  white  men,  as  it  has  been  said,  "  to  starve  sheep  in." 
That  is,  it  was  so  dry  and  sterile  that  even  sheep  could  barely 
exist  there.  Since  that  time  the  mountain  streams  wdiich 
come  down  from  perpetual  snows  have  been  diverted  from 
their  natural  courses  and  turned  upon  the  thirsty  land.  The 
result  is  a  wonderful  transformation ;  the  desert  blossoms  as 


BEAUTIFUL    CALIFORNIA.  17 

the  rose.  Vineyards  and  orchards  with  evidences  of  pros- 
perity and  comfort  are  everywhere.  During  most  of  the 
year  the  heavens  give  no  rain,  and  in  summer  the  heat  reaches 
a  degree  so  intense  that  one  shudders  to  write  about  it,  but  its 
trees  are  planted  by  the  river  of  waters  and  they  thirst  not. 

For  four  months  Oakhmd,  California,  was  our  home. 
Across  the  bay,  three  miles  distant,  San  Francisco  sits  upon 
the  slopes  and  crowns  of  the  sand  hills  which  form  the  north- 
ern extremity  of  the  peninsula  that  separates  the  bay  from 
the  ocean.  Oakland  and  Alameda  lie  upon  the  level  eastern 
shores  of  the  bay,  and  are  connected  with  the  western  me- 
tropolis with  frequently  running  ferry-boats  which  are  met 
nearly  half-way  across  the  bay  by  the  trains  that  run  out 
upon  causeways  or  piers  constructed  either  of  permanent  em- 
bankments or  of  piles.  Back  of  these  towns,  the  hills  form  a 
sort  of  amphitheater,  covered  during  winter  and  spring  with 
beautiful  green.  Great  pains  is  taken  to  beautify  the  homes 
of  Oakland,  and  nature  aids  these  efforts  with  a  genial  climate. 
The  result  is  gratifying  to  its  citizens,  and  almost  bewildering 
in  its  profusion  of  loveliness  to  the  traveler  from  the  regions  of 
rigorous  winters. 

Essaying  to  describe  the  appearance  of  California  in  April 
or  May,  one  might  well  call  it  paradise.  The  trip  from 
Oakland  to  San  Jose,  or  indeed  through  almost  any  of  its 
valleys,  brings  constantly  to  mind  the  words  in  which  inspira- 
tion describes  the  fertile  valley  of  the  Jordan.  It  is  "  even  as 
the  garden  of  the  Lord,  like  the  land  of  Egypt,  as  thou  comest 
unto  Zoar."  It  is  the  land  of  roses ;  and  innumerable  fruit 
trees  add  beauty  and  fragrance  to  a  scene  that  is  already  sur- 
passing in  its  loveliness. 

But  California  is  not  paradise,  nor  need  we  look  for  it  on 
the  earth  in  its  present  condition  ;  for  it  is  not  here.  The  rain 
ceases  in  April  and  as  the  summer  advances,  the  verdure  dis- 


18 


LEAVE-TAKING. 


appears,  the  ground  becomes  parched,  except  where  it  is  irri- 
gated, the  dust  in  the  roads  becomes  daily  deeper,  and  comes 
up  over  the  hind  into  the  beds  and  kneading -troughs.  In 
October  or  November  refreshing  showers  begin  to  come. 
Nature  washes  her  face  and  changes  her  clothes.  Animals 
rejoice  in  the  abundance  of  fresh  pastures ;  mankind  forgets 
the  drouth  of  the  summer  and  boasts  of  the  glorious  climate, 
while  the  East  is  shivering  and  freezing  in  the  icy  chains 
of  Boreas. 


ScKNK  I.N    Oakland. 


OUT  OF  THE  WESTERN  DOOR. 


'MERICAX8  are  likely  to  feel  that  the  Pacific  Coast 
line  is  the  very  "jumping-ofF  place"  of  creation. 
But  it  is  not;  we  still  go  on.  Turning  backward  at 
this  point,  the  traveler  sees  behind  him  the  glory  of 
modern  civilization  and  all  those  associations  that  familiarity 
has  made  dear  to  him.  The  Golden  Gate  is  the  exit  of  the 
New  World,  and  the  gateway  of  the  regions  of  the  primitive 
ages,  where  life  and  history  had  their  beginning.  At  that  point 
the  head  and  tail  of  human  progress  come  nearest  together, 
with  only  the  Pacific  waters  between  them. 

Of  late  years  a  tide  has  seemed  to  set  in,  flowing  from  the 
Old  World  eastward,  and  signs  of  reviving  life  are  seen  in  the 
Orient.  If  the  west-bound  traveler  looks  across  the  ocean,  he 
will  perceive  the  beautiful  evening  star  of  Australasia  rising, 
contrary  to  nature,  in  the  southwestern  sky,  clear  and  bright 
above  the  horizon.  For  while  the  star  of  empire  takes  its 
westward  way,  and  nearly  all  the  world  has  joined  the  proces- 
sion, this  new  realm  receives  its  chief  impulse  and  strength 

from  the  west. 

When  entering  upon  a  Aoyage,  the  first  thing  a  passenger 

does  is  to  see  his  stateroom  and  determine  how  it  is  going  to 

fit  him.     It  is  always  a:  tight  fit,  and  it  seems  at  first  to  be 

altogether  too  small  in  each  dimension.     It  is,  perhaps,    al)out 

seven  feet  high,  four  feet  wide,  and  just  long  enough  so  that 

an  ordinary  man  in  lying  down  will  not  bump  liis  head   and 

heels  at  the  same  time. 

Liuj 


20  OUT   OF   THE    WESTERX  DO  OF. 

li"  il  1m^  nil  outside  room,  there  is  ;i  little  circular,  brass- 
rliiiincd  window  with  glass  three  fourths  of  an  inch  thick  hung 
on  strong  hinges  which  allow  it  to  swing  inw^ard.  It  closes  in 
a  water-tight  joint,  and  is  held  in  its  place  by  two  strong  screw 
(damps.  If  it  is  not  too  near  the  water  line,  this  window,  or 
••l)ort,"  may  be  opened  ;  but  if  it  be  shut  by  the  steward,  it  is 
considered  quite  a  breach  of  rules  to  open  it  without  permis- 
sion. Orders  to  close  the  ports  frequently  come  from  the 
officer  on  the  bridge,  and  the  order  must  be  obeyed  no  matter 
how  much  tlio  passenger  may  grumble. 

There  are  two  narrow  bunks,  one  above  the  other,  made  up 
neatly,  and  in  modern  vessels  furnished  with  comfortable 
springs.  The  new  passenger  is  sure  to  think  he  can  never 
sleep  in  such  a  straight-jacket  arrangement.  But  when  he  is 
out  on  the  rolling  sea,  the  ship  going  up  one  side  and  down  at 
the  other,  shiftinir  the  anirle  of  the  boat  nearly  ninety  descrees, 
and  he  is  rolling  back  and  forth  like  a  spool  in  a  cradle,  he  is 
thankful  that  his  bed  is  no  wider  than  it  is.  Or  if  the  boat  be 
pitching,  he  is  equally  glad  that  with  a  pillow  at  the  top  of  his 
Itead  he  can  touch  solid  footinn;  at  both  ends. 

On  some  slats  overhead  or  perhaps  under  his  mattress  are 
life  preservers.  It  may  be  that  a  settee  under  the  window^ 
tills  up  about  all  the  space  that  is  left.  There  are  in  many 
cases  some  strange  looking  tin  receptacles  of  which  land  j5eoj)le 
have  not  learned  the  use,  but  with  the  use  of  which  they 
generally  become  acquainted  after  a  few  hours'  tossing. 

Having  said  our  adieus,  we  sailed  out  of  the  Golden  Gate 
on  a  pleasant  day  in  May,  and  for  the  first  time  found  our- 
selves upon  a  body  of  water  that  has  no  bounds.  Stories  of 
sea-sickness  had  driven  us  into  a  desperate  resolution  to  '•'  take 
it  as  it  came."  However  I  was  determined  not  to  surrender 
without  a  struggle,  but,  if  possible,  to  keep  my  stomach  under, 
and  compel  it  to  do  its  duty.     For  some  days  there  was  a  strife 


DIET  AT  SEA.  21 

between  labor  and  capital.  My  digestive  works  went  on  a 
strike,  and  declared  a  lockout  against  the  bill  of  fare.  I  could 
not  blame  them,  but  it  was  no  time  to  yield,  and  I  gave  them 
no  excuse  for  lack  of  business.  The  grumbling  stomach  and 
treacherous  nerves  were  held  in  so  close  surveillance  that 
they  soon  resumed  duty  wdth  the  understanding  that  they 
certainly  deserved  more  consideration  than  they  generally 
receive  either  on  sea  or  on  land. 

The  high  seas  is  a  good  place  to  make  dietetic  reforms. 
One  is  almost  ready  to  promise  not  to  eat  anything  any  more ; 
but,  once  on  land,  most  people  shield  themselves  behind  the  plea 
of  not  being  morally  accountable  wdien  making  the  promise, 
and  then  proceed  to  make  up  for  lost  time.  Besides,  in  the 
application  of  good  principles  of  eating  and  drinking,  there  are 
many  who  make  an  exception  in  f  ivor  of  sea  life,  and  proceed 
to  gratify  any  fancy  of  appetite  no  matter  how  unreasonable. 
But  there  is  not  the  slightest  reason  why  any  one  who  knows 
what  is  right  and  best  to  eat  when  ashore  should  throvv"  away 
that  knowledge  on  shipboard.  Good  princiides  are  good  the 
world  over.  And  the  violation  of  them  carries  its  conse- 
quences on  the  ocean  as  well  as  on  land. 

The  usual  monotony  of  an  ocean  trip  becomes  an  unusual 
one  on  the  Pacific.  Very  rarely  are  vessels  met,  except  in 
the  vicinity  of  ports.  And  nothing  breaks  the  monotony  of 
the  sea  as  meeting  or  passing  other  vessels  does.  But  days 
and  weeks  pass  on  the  Pacific  without  the  sight  of  a  passing 
sail. 

In  the  tropical  waters,  multitudes  of  flying  fish  skim  over 
the  water,  and  occasionally  one  of  extra  strength  or  ambition 
drops  on  the  deck  only  quickl}^  to  become  the  prey  of  some 
curiosity  seeker.  They  have  slim,  shining  bodies,  from  six  to 
ten  inches  in  length,  though  on  one  occasion  on  the  Indian 
Ocean,  we  captured  one  that  measured  fifteen  inches.     Their 


1  i  i-iy.i'm''. 


ni 


1 1  I 


'  '»  I 


DIVERSIONS  AT  SEA.  23. 

wings  are  extended  fins,  the  meshes  of  which  are  a  gelatinous 
substance.  Their  flights  are  from  five  to  twenty  yards,  and 
are  frequently  the  means  by  which  they  escape  from  their 
deadly  enemy,  the  porpoise. 

The  i)orpoise  is  the  swine  among  fishes,  and  usually  runs 
in  schools.  They  have  long,  peaked  noses,  or  snouts,  are  from 
three  to  six  feet  in  length,  and  often  gambol  about  the  vessel, 
throwing  themselves  partially  or  entirely  out  of  the  water  by 
the  force  of  the  velocity  with  which  they  swim.  They  have 
been  known  to  attack  men.  Such  an  instance  occurred  lately  in 
the  harbor  of  Auckland,  New  Zealand,  where  a  boatman  was 
thrown  into  the  water,  and  only  saved  himself  from  death  by 
these  marauders  by  a  vigorous  fight  with  an  oar. 

Another  fiimiliar  object  in  those  waters  is  the  all)atross, 
which  patiently  follows  a  vessel  for  many  leagues.  It  is  a 
gaunt,  stately  bird  with  wings  that  stretch  eight  to  ten  feet 
from  tip  to  tip.  The  wings  are  slender  for  their  length,  and  in 
flying  are  moved  so  slightly  that  the  movement  is  impercep- 
tible except  when  the  bird  is  rising  from  a  momentary  perch 
on  the  rigging  of  a  vessel,  which  it  seldom  takes,  or  from 
lighting  on  some  floating  object.  They  are  so  common  around 
Cape  of  Good  Ho[)e  that  the  sailors  there  call  them  ''  cape 
sheep."  Their  plumage  is  white  beneath,  and  generally  a  soft 
gray  on  their  backs.  They  possess  powerful  beaks  with  which 
on  one  occasion  they  nearly  saved  the  life  of  a  suicide.  On  a 
voyage  between  Auckland  and  Sydney  we  had  on  board  a 
man  whose  conscience  and  fears  of  justice  made  life  a  burden. 
While  conversing  with  a  fellow-passenger,  he  suddenly  sprang 
overboard.  The  alarm  was  given  at  once,  the  engines  were 
reversed,  and  boats  were  sent  back  to  pick  the  man  up.  The 
only  sign  of  his  whereabouts  was  the  huddle  of  albatrosses 
about  him.  Like  the  sea  gulls,  whose  big  cousins  they  are, 
they  consider  everything  that  goes  over  the  ship's  side  their 


24  OUT   OF   THE    WESTERX  DOOR. 

legal  plunder,  and  live  men  are  evidently  no  exceptions.  At 
least,  thev  ])li(Ml  tiieir  hills  so  vigorously  that  the  man  was 
kept  from  sinking,  and  sometimes  was  lifted  almost  hodily  out  of 
the  water.  His  coat  was  stripped  off,  and  his  other  garments 
were  torn  to  shreds.  His  face  and  body  were  fearfully  lac- 
erated. He  was  half  an  hour  in  the  water,  but  was  not  drowned 
when  the  boats  reached  him.  The  sailors  brought  him  to  the 
deck,  but  through  exhaustion  and  loss  of  blood  the  work  was 
coni[)leted,  and  according  to  his  wish,  he  found  rest  in  that 
broad  grave  that  ever  yawns  for  its  willing  or  unwilling  vic- 
tims—  that  grave  whose  tombstones  of  eternal  rocks  bear  no 
inscriptions,  and  reveal  no  secrets  of  who  lies  here  or  there. 

Another  attraction  seen  in  all  waters  at  night,  but  which  is 
much  more  noticeable  in  warmer  climes,  is  the  sparkling,  glow- 
ing phosphorescence  in  the  ship's  wake  or  along  its  sides.  It 
affords  hours  of  amusement  to  watch  this  beautiful  phenom- 
enon. The  agitation  of  the  water  at  the  ship's  prow,  along 
its  sides,  and  especially  at  the  propeller,  causes  waves  and  lialls 
of  phosphorescent  light  to  flash  in  the  darkness.  Many  pleas- 
ant evening  hours  are  spent  leaning  over  the  ship's  rail,  mus- 
ing on  distant  scenes,  and  watching  the  display  of  watery 
fireworks. 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS. 


WO  thousand  one  hundred  miles  southwest  of  San 
Francisco  lie  the  Hawaiian  Islands.  No  matter  at 
what  season  of  the  year  they  are  approached,  their 
slopes  always  present  the  same  graceful  appearance 
of  living  green.  They  are  situated  just  south  of  the  Tropic  of 
Cancer,  and  twenty  degrees  north  of  the  equator.  Perpetual 
summer,  with  an  average  temperature  of  about  seventy-five 
degrees,  and  constant  moisture  on  a  fertile  soil,  are  all  the 
conditions  required  to  produce  a  paradisical  scene  of  foliage, 
fruits,  and  flowers.  These  conditions  exist  here,  and  the  re- 
sult is  not  wanting.  To  one  accustomed  to  the  scenery  of  the 
regions  of  northern  winters,  a  drive  through  Honolulu  is  en- 
chanting. Nothing  that  he  sees  is  familiar,  and  everything  is 
luxuriant  in  loveliness. 

The  Hawaiian,  or  Sandwich,  Islands  are  as  an  oasis  in  the 
vast  desert  of  waters  with  which  they  are  for  many  hundreds 

of  miles  surrounded.     The  islands  are  eio'ht  in  number.     In 
■"-  .  .       . 

afjyproaching  that  of  Oahu,  upon  wdiich  Honolulu  is  situated, 

we  pass  Molokai  on  the  left,  where  is  located  the  leper  settle- 
ment. This  dread  disease  has  obtained  a  lamentable  foothold 
in  the  little  kingdom,  and  as  fjist  as  the  disease  appears,  the 
victims  are  transported  to  this  colony,  where  they  are  sup- 
ported at  the  expense  of  the  government.  Among  the  fellow- 
passengers  with  us  from  San  Francisco,  was  Father  Conradi, 
who  was  giving  his  life  to  the  interest  of  this  wretched  settle- 
ment ;  for  it  is  established  that   no    one   who  has    been  with 

[25] 


< 


KILACEA.  27 

tliem  long  enough  to  have  received  the  infection,  is  allowed  to 
return.  He  was  a  Catholic  priest,  a  man  of  education  and 
refinement,  and  of  a  gentle.  Christian  disposition  and  de})ort- 
ment.  Not  long  after  that,  the  world  heard  of  the  death  of 
Father  Damien,  to  whose  assistance  this  priest  was  going. 
Many  sad  scenes  are  witnessed  at  the  wharf  in  Honolulu  from 
which  the  little  steamer  sets  out  for  the  island,  often  bearinu' 
from  home  and  friends  a  loved  one  who  will  never  return,  but 
who  is  thus  consigned  to  a  living,  lingering  death  from  whose 
power  there  is  no  human  relief. 

The  islands  are  of  volcanic  origin  and  character.  For 
sublimity  and  general  attractiveness  their  scenery  is  very 
justly  celebrated.  The  volcanoes,  both  active  and  quiescent, 
are  the  largest  in  the  world.  The  crater  of  Kilauea,  which 
forms  a  part  of  the  mountain  called  Ma  una  Loa,  ofi'ers  the 
grandest  spectacle  in  the  shape  of  an  active  volcano  to  be 
found  in  all  the  Avorld.  It  is  situated  on  the  island  of  HaAvaii, 
or  Owyhee,  the  largest  of  the  group.  The  main  mountain 
rises  to  an  altitude  of  14,000  feet,  but  the  mouth  of  the  crater 
is  only  6000  feet  above  the  sea.  This  crater  is  nine  miles  in 
circumference,  and  contains,  in  the  center,  an  immense  bed  of 
lava  in  a  constant  state  of  fusion  and  commotion.  At  times  it 
rises  and  overflows  its  confines,  carrying  destruction  in  its 
path  to  the  sea.  A  trip  to  this  crater  is  attended  with  incon- 
venience and  some  danger;  but  those  who  make  it  will  ever 
after  thank  the  good  fortune  that  led  them  to  behold  the  most 
impressive  spectacle  of  the  kind  to  be  found  in  all  the  world. 
The  real  danger  of  the  trip  is,  however,  generally  overstated 
by  travelers  who  like  to  infuse  the  heroic  into  their  exploits ; 
for  notwithstanding  the  apparent  risk  of  being  swallow^ed  up 
by  the  infernal  regions,  the  constant  stream  of  visitors  has  so 
far  escaped.  The  outbreaks  are  preceded  by  warning  sounds, 
and  the  flow  of  lava  is  sufiiciently  slow  to  allow  ample  time 


< 


CO 


HOW    THEY  LIVE.  29 

for  retreat.  The  distance  by  sea  from  Honolulu  to  Ililo,  the 
port  of  Owyhee,  is  275  miles,  and  from  there  the  ascent  is 
made  by  stage  over  a  very  good  government  road,  a  distance 
of  thirty  miles.  The  hotels  are  good,  and  the  exiDenses  of  the 
trip  are  not  unreasonable. 

The  native  inhabitants  of  these  islands  are  dark  brown  in 
color,  and  partake  of  the  universal  indolent  temperament  which 
prevails  in  all  warm  climates.  Nature  herself  seems  to  con- 
nive at  laziness  in  these  countries,  and  in  a  very  kindly  mood 
provides  the  necessities  of  existence  for  only  a  small  outlay  of 
labor;  and  these  being  supplied,  the  natives  are  generally  con- 
tent to  dispense  with  the  embellishments  and  ornamentation 
which  make  such  demands  upon  the  time  and  strength  of  the 
civilized  world.  Here  the  cocoanut  palm,  banana,  plantain, 
mango,  bread  fruit,  and  other  food  trees  and  plants,  are  of 
indigenous  growth,  and  all  the  fruits  of  those  latitudes  grow 
nearly  spontaneously.  Fish  are  to  be  had  for  the  catching. 
As  for  clothing,  neither  their  native  customs  nor  the  climate 
demands  much,  and  even  the  requirements  of  an  encroaching 
civilization  are  easily  met ;  so  that  in  the  enervating  tem- 
perature nature  and  custom  have  adjusted  themselves  to  the 
wants  and  comforts  of  the  peoj^le. 

Political  aifairs  in  Hawaii  have  been  no  more  settled  than 
the  elements  in  the  natural  world.  Disruption  and  turbulence 
have  frequently  disturbed  the  surface  as  well  as  the  founda- 
tions of  the  island  kinadom.  Uncle  Sam  seems  to  have  an  idea 
that  it  would  be  a  good  thing  for  both  parties  if  he  were  to  put 
the  island  in  his  overcoat  pocket;  but  Uncle  John  Bull  shakes 
his  head  as  if  to  say,  "  Ho  no.  Lulu ;  you  can 't  'ave  it." 

Revolutions  have  been  comparatively  bloodless,  and  treason 
has  been  easily  condoned.  The  recently -formed  republic  is 
not  satisfactory  to  a  very  large  class,  for  there  are  many  who 
sigh  for  independent  royalty,  while  others  clamor  for  member- 


►J 
o 


CHANGES,    PAST  AND   FUTURE.  31 

ship  in  the  American  federal  family.  To  the  aA^erage  native  it 
matters  but  little,  so  long  as  his  pipe  and  stomach  are  filled. 

So  far  as  the  natives  themselves  are  concerned,  they  seem 
to  be  of  a  docile,  peaceable  nature.  They  are  easily  led  by 
designing  men,  of  whom  there  are  not  a  few  scattered  here  and 
there  over  the  earth,  in  Hawaii  as  well  as  in  other  places. 
Then,  too,  there  are  business  men  whose  interests  lead  them 
to  desire  a  change  in  the  relations  and  policy  of  the  govern- 
ment, and  these  desires  rest  in  some  cases  upon  a  reasonable 
basis.  It  is  the  custom  of  our  day  for  the  larger  to  swallow  up 
the  smaller  fry.  Consolidation  of  interests,  —  aggrandizement 
of  the  great  by  absorbing  the  weak,  —  is  one  of  the  principal 
laws  of  human  progress.  In  the  natural  drift  of  events  a  few 
decades  will  witness  the  disappearance  of  most  of  the  smaller 
kingdoms  as  independent  governments,  and  their  absorption  by 
the  greater  and  aggressive  nations.  It  will  be  admitted  that 
the  benefits  of  the  change  do  not  all  redound  to  the  absorber. 

A  most  remarkable  change  has  come  over  the  social  aspect 
of  the  islands  since  the  introduction  of  Christianity.  They 
were  discovered  by  Captain  Cook  in  1778.  This  great  explorer 
did  not  treat  the  simple  natives  as  he  should  have  done,  but 
was  unkind  and  even  cruel  to  them.  They  received  the  im- 
pression that  he  was  vested  with  supernatural  powers,  and  this 
belief  was  strengthened  by  the  sight  of  his  ships,  wdiich  they 
called  floating  islands.  Captain  Cook  not  only  allowed  but 
even  encouraged  this  impression.  But  upon  a  subsequent  visit 
he  became  involved  in  trouble  with  them  over  the  loss  of  a 
boat.  It  is  said  that  the  natives  desired  to  test  his  divinity 
by  a  prick  with  a  spear.  He  w^inced  in  the  ordeal,  thus 
revealing  that  he  w^as  but  human,  therefore  they  quickly  dis- 
patched him  before  the  boats  from  the  ship  could  reach 
the  spot. 


[32] 


Queen  Lil. 


ADIEU  HAWAII.  33 

The  first  missionaries  who  visited  the  ishiiids  came  from 
America  in  182U.  Aljout  this  time  they  had  voluntarily  de- 
stroyed their  idols  and  temples,  and  the  whole  paraphernalia 
of  heathen  worship.  The  missionaries  found  the  people  with-' 
out  a  reliiiion.  Thev  were  kindlv  received,  and  the  work  of 
education  at  once  began;  consequently  in  a  few  years  the 
entire  kiniidom  was  l)rouo;ht  to  an  acknowledgment  of  the 
religion  of  Christ.  But  Satan  came  also.  And  the  strife 
between  vice  and  virtue,  good  and  evil,  still  goes  on.  The 
people  still  exhibit  a  childish  susceptibility  to  the  influence  of 
those  who  have  their  confidence,  and  are  content  to  pursue 
life  in  an  aimless  manner,  if  their  present  wants  are  supplied. 
The  most  of  them  like  to  smoke  tobacco  ;  nor  do  the  men  have 
a  monopoly  of  this  habit. 

There  are  many  birds  of  beautiful  plumage  in  these  and 
other  islands,  yet  but  few  are  blest  with  musical  faculties.  And 
saying  this  we  perhaps  ought  to  except  the  mosquitos,  which, 
on  account  of  their  size  and  active  qualities,  almost  belong  to 
the  bird  species.  They  are  numerous,  musical,  energetic, 
and  have  an  evident  relish  for  the  blood  of  a  visitor. 

As  a  stranger  contemplates  the  easy  phase  which  life 
assumes  in  these  luxuriant  regions,  he  almost  wishes  that  he, 
too,  could  live  in  Honolulu.  But  if  he  is  looking  for  paradise, 
then  a  short  stay  will  convince  him  that  he  must  move  on. 
And  so  we  leave  the  little  island  country,  thankful  for  the 
privilege  of  becoming  acquainted  with  its  beauty  and  for  ex- 
periencing the  kind  hospitality  of  new-found  friends. 

On  the  opposite  page  w^e  present  a  correct  portrait  of  the 
last  sovereign,  Queen  Liliuokalani,  familiarly  called  "Queen 
Lil,"  wdio  w^as  deposed  in  1893  to  make  room  for  the  republic. 


It 

i 


i   f    I  -y 

1  ' 


THE  ISLAND  WORLD. 


^-.^^.C\-g  ^^^^^^  ^^  ^j^^  ^^^^  Wt)rkl,  the  New  World,  the 
1^  Oriental,  and  the  Western  AVorld.  Tn  this  chapter 
we  enter  what  may  appropriately  be  called  the 
Island  World.  The  geographical  name  for  this 
world  is  Oceania.  It  is  called  the  sixth  division  of  the  alobe, 
though  as  for  that,  it  might  with  equal  propriety  be  called  the 
third,  according  as  we  enumerate  the  other  continents.  By 
grouping  Europe,  Asia,  and  Africa  together,  and  the  Americas 
into  a  second  division,  Oceania  and  Australasia  become  the 
third;  by  counting  each  of  the  continents  as  a  separate 
division,  Oceania  is  the  seventh  ;  or  by  counting  the  Old 
World  continents  separately,  and  the  Americas  as .  one,  and 
Australasia  separately,  Oceania  becomes  the  sixth  division. 

Sailing  southwest  from  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  we  enter 
this  unique  world  at  a  central  point.  From  the  southeastern 
shores  of  Asia  and  from  the  eastern  shores  of  Australia,  this 
great  family  of  islands  stretches  away  in  a  southeasterly 
direction  across  about  two  thirds  of  the  width  of  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  nearly  to  the  shores  of  South  America.  Eight  thou- 
sand miles  would  scarcely  cover  the  distance  from  western 
Malaysia  to  Pitcairn  on  the  southeast.  The  islands  are 
divided  into  four  great  families,  Malaysia,  Micronesia,  Melanesia, 
and  Polynesia.  Each  of  these  comprises  numerous  smaller 
groups  and  single  islands.  Speaking  of  them  as  a  whole,  the 
islands  are  either  of  coral  or  of  volcanic  origin.  The  excep- 
tions to  this  rule  are  very  few.     It  is  believed  11i;;t  the  coral 

[35] 


,'?,"it,il*iAt*f.#i\iLii;5%ll 


mffiimMfw 


CORAL   ISLANDS.  37 

islands  have  for  their  foundations,  rocks  which  have  heen 
upheaved  by  volcanic  action,  but  which  have  not  come  to  the 
surface,  and  upon  these  the  wonderful  little  builders  have 
begun  their  work.  Coral  is  a  calcareous  deposit  of  minute 
l)lant-animals  classed  as  zoophytes.  By  the  action  of  countless 
millions  of  these  creatures,  thousands  of  islands  have  been 
created,  many  of  which  have  become  the  habitations  of  men. 
The  coral  islands  are  of  low  formation,  generally  not  rising  in 
any  place  more  than  a  few  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
Many  are  surrounded  by  a  reef  of  the  same  formation,  which 
lies  but  a  short  distance  outside  the  island,  and  forms  a  lagoon 
of  placid  water  about  it.  Often  the  island  consists  of  this  reef 
only,  the  central  portion  being  a  lake  of  salt  water  encircled 
by  a  low  ridge  of  coral  rocks  forming  a  wreath  of  palm  trees. 
The  circles  are  not  always  complete ;  they  may  be  but  a  seg- 
ment with  the  arc  toward  the  prevailing  wind,  and  perhaps  a 
submero-ed  line  of  coral  rocks  forms  the  chord  of  the  arc.  The 
soil  which  has  been  formed  on  these  islands  is  a  vegetable 
mold,  very  rich,  and  hence  vegetation  is  exceedingly  rank. 

Volcanic  islands  exist  where  the  upheaval  has  been  more 
complete,  rocks  having  been  thrown  by  subterranean  forces 
above  the  water  aenerallv  to  considerable  height.  Sometimes 
the  shores  of  these  islands  rise  like  walls  from  the  ocean 
de])ths  to  such  a  height  as  to  be  not  only  inaccessible  but  ex- 
tremelv  orand.  In  other  cases  the  center  of  the  island  is  the 
apex  of  the  pile  from  which  the  surface  slopes  in  more  or  less 
gentle  lines  to  the  shore.  These  islands  present  upon  approach 
an  interesting  and  imposing  appearance.  In  the  dim  distance 
their  ragged  outlines  at  first  look  like  clouds  on  the  horizon. 
But  upon  nearer  approach,  they  assume  the  color  of  living 
green,  and  at  last  appear  in  the  attractive  loveliness  of  luxuri- 
ant foliage,. in  which  they  are  completely  clothed  from  crown 
to  water  s  edge. 


38  THE  JSLAXI)    WORLD. 

The  volcanic  soil  is  A'cry  fertile,  and  the  waiin.  humid 
climate  unites  with  the  ciiiickly-responsive  ground,  and  pro- 
duces vegetation  in  nature's  most  hountiful  measures.  Indige- 
nous to  these  islands  we  lind,  among  other  trees,  the  cocoa- 
palm  growing  spontaneously.  Its  green  fruit  furnishes  a 
delicious,  cool,  and  nutritious  drink.  The  milk  of  the  green 
cocoanut  is  a}it  to  impress  a  northerner  untavorahly  at  the 
first  drink,  but  his  prejudice  soon  gives  way  to  a  hearty  relish 
for  the  product  of  this  tropical  cow.  This  figure  is  not  inap- 
propriate, since  our  four-footed  cows  furnish  us  with  food  in 
milk,  butter,  and  cheese  while  livinji,  and  when  thev  are 
killed,  men  eat  their  flesh,  wear  their  skins,  and  even  utilize 
their  hair.  Likewise  with  the  palm  tree  ;  its  uses  for  man- 
kind  are  numerous.  Its  fruit  furnishes  food  and  drink  in  a 
variety  of  forms,  and  in  its  destruction  it  still  administers  to 
the  wants  of  men. 

In  some  varieties  there  is  a  cabbage  formation  at  the  top'of 
the  trunk,  which  is  not  unlike  the  vegetable  after  which  the 
"  cabbaae  i>alm"  is  named,  and  it  is  used  in  the  same  wav. 
From  the  pith  of  other  varieties,  sago  is  manufactured.  The 
wood  is  used  in  the  construction  of  dwellinas,  while  of  the 
fibrous  bark,  matting  is  made,  such  as  we  often  see  in  the  halls 
and  aisles  of  our  i)ublic  buildings.  There  are  more  than  five 
hundred  species  of  the  palm,  and  it  is  probable  that  no  other 
class  of  the  veoetable  world  is  so  serviceable  to  mankind, 
unless  we  be  called  upon  to  except  the  grasses.  May  we 
not  then  from  these  fiicts  call  the  palm  the  islanders'  cow  ? 

Palm  trees  have  a  slender,  straight  trunk,  which,  in  the 
case  of  the  cocoa-palm,  often  grows  to  a  height  of  more  than 
fifty  feet.  There  being  no  branches,  the  leaves  grow  out  of 
the  body  of  the  tree  in  a  tuft  at  its  top.  The  leaves  of  the 
different  species  vary  in  form ;  some  are  very  broad,  and  from 
these  the  common  palm-leaf  fans  are  made.     Others  are  long 


THE  PALM. 


39 


and  >-;lenJer  in  form,  among  which  there  is  a  kind  whose 
leaves,  we  are  told,  sometimes  grow  fifty  feet  h)ng  and  eight 
feet  broad,  though  none  such  came  under  my  observation. 
These  enormous  leaves  are  pinnated, —  that  is,  divided  into 
narrow  stri}»s, —  and   fiom  what  I  liave   seen,  I  am  not    led   to 


^ .,...  P^ttM 

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Gatheuixo  Cocoanuts. 

doubt  the  statement  referred  to.  Cocoanuts,  both  in  the  fresh 
state  and  dried,  form  the  principal  article  of  export  from  the 
islands.     The  dried  article  is  called  "copra." 

Besides  the  palm,  we  find  growing  luxuriantly  and  every- 
where the  banana  plant,  the  fruit  of  which  forms  a  staple 
article  of  food  and  commerce.  Then  there  are  guavas,  man- 
goes, pineapples,  and  other  tropical  fruit  ;  and  these,  with 
bread-fruit,  yams,  and  arrowroot,  form  the  principal  diet  of 
the  natives. 


40  THE  ISLAND   WORLD. 

The  inhabitants  of  Oceania  seem  to  be  descendants  of  a 
common  stock,  though  whence  they  came  is  unknown.  It 
is  believed,  upon  what  seems  to  be  good  authority,  tliat  the 
Samoan  Ishmds  w^ere  the  home  of  the  orioinal  ancestry.  Thev 
formerly  built  immense  canoes  with  decks,  capable  of  carrying 
more  than  a  hundred  people.  With  such  vess-els  it  w;is  not 
difhcult  to  scatter  themselves  throughout  the  entire  island 
region. 

Entering  Oceania  as  already  indicated,  by  the  not  very 
fast  boats  of  the  "  Oceanic"  line,  a  distance  of  two  thousand 
seven  hundred  miles  south  and  a  little  west  from  Honolulu, 
we  come  to  Apia  on  the  island  of  Upolu,  of  the  Samoan  group. 
This  group  is  a  member  of  the  Polynesian  famil^^  Among 
other  groups  included  in  this  division  are  the  Fiji  group, —  con- 
sisting of  about  two  hundred  and  eighty  islands  and  islets, 
eighty-seven  of  which  are  inhabited, —  Tonga,  Society,  and  the 
Low  Archipelago.  The  Society  Islands  are  under  French  do- 
minion, and  with  the  names  of  some  of  them  many  of  our 
readers  are  already  fVimiliar  through  their  knowledge  of  the 
missionary  work_^  which  has  been  done  upon  them.  Among 
them  we  may  mention  Tahiti,  Raiatea,  and  Ilurutu. 

The  Polynesians  are  among  the  finest  specimens  of  abo- 
rioines  to  be  found  in  the  world.  Thev  are  of  good  stature  and 
physique,  erect  and  dignified,  and  in  youth  many  of  both 
sexes  are  handsome.  As  the  steamer  enters  the  harbor  and 
drof»s  anchor  at  some  distance  from  the  shore,  we  are  quickly 
surrounded  by  canoes  loaded  with  natives  and  their  wares. 
With  surprising  agility  a  portion  of  each  boat's  occupants 
clambers  to  the  ship's  deck,  while  the  others  proceed  to  pass 
uv)  the  various  articles  which  thev  ha^e  brouuht  out  for  sale. 
The  fruit  of  the  land  is  well  represented,  and  the  passengers 
are  generally  anxious  to  invest  in  something  to  eat  that  is  fresh 
from  the  shore.     There  are  also  beautiful  baskets  of  coral  of 


^V.l  Tl  VE    CHAR  A  CTER. 


41 


every  variety  of  form,  and  an  interestini>;  assortment  of  hand- 
made trinkets  and  curios,  in  which  we  wouhl  gladly  invest 
were  it  not  for  the  trouble  of  transporting  them.  However,  we 
purchase  a  piece  of"  tappa,"  or  native  cloth,  for  a  table  spread. 
This  curious  fabric  has  been  neither  spun  nor  woven,  but  is 
made  bv  beatinii-  the  inner  bark  of  the  bread-fruit  tree  into 
a  very  thin  layer  <»f  pulp,  and  then  beating  several  of  these 
layers  into  one.     When  the  cloth  is  dried,  it  is  painted  in  rude 


Our  Steamer  at  Samoa. 

and  fantastic  patterns,  and  is  used  for  articles  of  clothing ;  but 
since  the  introduction  of  more  civilized  trade,  cotton  cloth  has 
taken  the  place  of  their  own  tappa  for  the  wardrobe.  Still, 
considerable  is  made  by  the  more  primitive  classes,  and  offered 
for  sale  to  travelers. 

The  people  of  all  these  islands  are  exceedingly  childlike  and 
simple  in  their  characters  and  their  culture.  Their  traditions 
abound  in  ridiculous  superstitions.  Their  aflections  are  strong 
but  fickle,  and  their  malice,  though  easily  excited,  is  readily 
appeased.     They  were,  when  discovered  by  the  white   men, 


r'jf  J- 


,«*:. 

',<* 


IT,-',-      ■■!"'y.\j. 


a 


o 

7i 


NATIVE   CHARACTER. 


43 


true  children  of  nature,  subject  to  the  passions  of  the  natural 
heart,  yet  tractable,  docile,  and  very  impressible  under  jiood 
influences.  Their  simple  habits  of  living  and  primitive  diet, 
which  is- almost  purely  vegetarian,  have  doubtless  contributed 
largely  to  making  them  what  they  are  —  })hysically  fine  speci- 
mens of  mankind,  in  nature  childlike  and  susceptible  to  good 
impressions.  The  fact  that  in  some  instances  they  were 
actual  cannibals  does  not  invalidate  the  principles  alluded  to  ; 
namely,  that  the  diet  and  the  habits  of  living  have  an  effect 
upon  the  character.  People  of  every  nation  and  clime  are 
witnesses  to  that  truth.  Cannibalism  was  originally  connected 
with  their  heathenish  religion  and  superstition,  rather  than 
being  a  part  of  their  chosen  dietary.  They  were  real  chil- 
dren of  fallen  human  nature,  savage  by  instruction  and 
birth ;  but  their  simi)le  manners  of  life  have  made  them  easily 
accessible  to  those  who  work  for  their  good  as  well  as  to  the 
evil  minded. 

The  most  westerly  division  of  Oceania  is  ^Malaysia,  which 
lies  adjacent  to  Asia.  This  group  includes  the  largest  islands. 
East  of  Malaysia  and  north  of  the  equator  we  find  Micronesia, 
and  to  the  South,  Melanesia ;  while  Polynesia  stretches  away 
to  the  southeast  toward  the  coast  of  Chili. 


»v 

P? 

'  . 

Pi 

hh 

/   , 

< 

i''.', 

(J 

•'t' 

jH 

^, 

o. 

PITCAIRN. 


'T  the  farthest  extremity  of  the  Polynesian  family 
lies  the  famous  Pitcairn  Island.  It  is  an  irreuular 
pyramid  of  volcanic  rock  two  miles  in  diameter, 
with  shores  almost  inaccessible,  except  in  one  place. 
Its  soil  is  fertile,  and  it  shares  the  rich  vegetable  growth  of  its 
distant  companions.  In  the  year  1790  this  lonely  island 
became  the  asylum  of  certain  British  sailors,  of  the  ship 
"  Bounty,"  who  had  mutinied  against  the  tyrannical  rule  of 
their  oflicers.  After  setting  the  captain  and  his  party  adrift 
in  a  small  boat,  they  took  charge  of  the  ship,  and  sailed  her 
back  to  Tahiti,  which  they  had  lately  left.  Some  of  the  crew 
chose  to  remain  there.  The  others,  being  joined  by  some 
native  men  and  women,  sailed  in  search  of  the  little  lone 
island  of  whose  whereabouts  the  world  had  nothing  more  than 
a  hint.  Having  been  fortunate  in  finding  it,  they  effected  a 
landing,  destroyed  the  ship,  and  sunk  her  guns.  But  trouble 
arose  in  the  party,  which  finally  resulted  in  murder.  The 
quarrel  proceeded  until  but  four  males  were  left  upon  the 
island.  One  of  these,  having  succeeded  in  distilling  <a  spirit 
from  the  fermented  sap  of  the  ti  tree,  gave  himself  up  to 
inebriety,  and  in  this  state  fell  over  a  cliff,  and  was  killed. 
Another  one  of  the  remaining  men  likewise  became  an  inebri- 
ate,  and  was  finally  put  out  of  the  way  by  the  two  survivors. 
These  two  survivors  were  named  Young  and  Adams,  the 
former  of  whom  soon  died.  Among  the  effects  saved  from  the 
"  Bounty  "   were  a  Bible  and   a  prayer-book.      While  a  boy, 

[45] 


IlLSTORY   OF   THE  ISLAND. 


47 


Adcims  had  learned  to  read  and  Avrite  in  the  streets  of  London. 
He  now  began  to  read  the  Bible,  and  collecting  the  children  of 
the  little  community,  he  formed  a  school,  and  taught  them,  as 
well  as  the  whole  settlement,  to  resid  the  Scriptures.  Public 
worship  was  established  after  the  forms  of  the  Church  of 
England.     The  tone  of  morals  was  at  once  improved,  and  when 


Bounty  Bay,  Pitcaikx. 

the  island  was  visited  in  1808  and  1814,  a  model  community 
was  found  dwelling  in  peace,  and  cherishing  the  principles  and 
practices  of  purity.  Since  that  time  the  island  has  been 
visited  at  quite  regular  intervals.  In  1831  all  the  inhabitants 
were  taken  off  to  Tahiti,  but  not  being  satisfied,  they  returned 
a  few  months  later  to  their  lonely,  rocky  island.     In  1852-3  a 


[48] 


A    I'l.ji   (niEF. 


HISTORY   OF  THE  ISLAND.  49 

dry  season  prevailed,  and  the  island  having  become  quite 
crowded,  the  people  reluctantly  consented  to  go  to  Norfolk 
Island,  situated  to  the  north  of  New  Zealand ;  but  this  migra- 
tion did  not  prove  wholly  satisfactory.  A  few  years  later  two 
families,  consisting  of  sixteen  persons,  returned  to  their  old 
home.  These  have  been  joined  by  others,  and  the  two  islands 
have  since  remained  closely  related,  though  widely  separated. 
The  population  of  Pitcairn  is  now  a  little  over  one  hundred. 

The  principles  implanted  in  the  hearts  of  the  people  by 
Adams  were  not  suffered  to  die  out  by  those  on  Pitcairn ;  but 
since  that  time  they  have  lived  in  the  enjoyment  of  the  fruits 
of  peace.  In  their  simplicity  they  have,  to  a  great  extent,  had 
all  things  in  common,  together  striving  for  mutual  improve- 
ment. Passing  vessels  and  the  regular  visits  of  the  British 
war  ships  have  kept  them  in  touch  with  the  outer  v/orld,  yet 
sufficiently  isolated  from  its  contaminations. 

In  the  year  1886,  Mr.  John  I.  Tay,  of  San  Francisco, 
obtained  a  passage  to  the  island,  and  was  welcomed  by  its 
inhabitants.  He  ^vas  an  active  member  of  the  Seventh-day 
Adventist  denomination.  As  the  result  of  his  visit,  the 
majority  of  the  people^ of  the  island  accepted  the  faith  he 
taught,  and  within  a  few  months  the  remainder  fell  in  with  the 
new-found  faith.  The  revolution,  though  sudden  and  com- 
plete, was  accomidished  peacefully,  and  to  the  entire  satisfac- 
tion of  all  concerned. 

The  people  whose  agent  originated  this  movement,  had  but 
just  begun  their  work  in  the  Pacific  Islands.  They  had 
established  a  society  at  Honolulu,  and  this  was  their  second 
effort  in  Oceania.  Since  that  time  they  have  built  and 
operated  a  missionary  vessel  named  "  Pitcairn."  Their  mis- 
sionaries have  visited  many  of  the  islands,  and  their  work  is 
now"  established  in  several  of  them.  This  people  form  but  a 
comparatively  small  body,  but  their  activity  is  greater,  in  pro- 
4 


o 

< 


\^ 


o 


A   PECULIAR  PEOPLE. 


51 


portion,  than  their  numbers ;  for  although  their  history  dates 
only  from  184G,  they  are  now  found  in  all  parts  of  the 
world. 

The  name  the}-  have  adopted  suggests  the  principal  peculi- 
arities of  their  faith.  They  observe  the  seventh-day  Sabbath 
in  harmony  with  the  literal  reading  of  the  fourth  command- 
ment of  the  decalogue.     Going  back  to  creation,  we  learn  that 


Tahitian  Girls. 


God  created  all  things  in  six  days.  In  commemoration  of 
that  w^ork,  he  sanctified  the  seventh  day  as  the  Sabbath,  thus 
forming  the  Aveek.  The  Seventh-day  Adventists  claim  that 
there  is  no  scriptural  account  or  authority  for  the  change  of 
the  Sabbath,  but  that  it  was  instituted  by  the  church  after 
her  apostasy,  and  therefore  that  as  Christ  and  the  apostles 
kept  the  ancient  Sabbath,  and  did  not  sanction  the  change, 
Christians  ought  to  keep  the  seventh  day  as  God  commanded. 


O 


fa 


RE:SULTS   of   CHRISTIANITY.  53 

By  their  study  of  the  prophecies  of  the  Ohl  and  New 
Testaments  this  people  are  convinced  that  these  are  the  hist 
days,  and  that  the  second  coming  of  Christ  is  near.  This 
belief  gives  fervor  to  their  work.  As  Christians  they  are 
thoroughly  evangelical.  They  inculcate  the  principles  of 
gospel  truth.  Their  interpretation  of  the  Scriptures  is  plain, 
simple,  and  largely  literal.  Consequently  it  is  not  to  be  won- 
dered at  that  in  the  simplicity  of  faith  the  islanders  readily 
adopted  their  teachings,  and  the  observance  of  the  seventh- 
day  Sabbath  of  the  Bible.  The  effect  of  the  change  has  not 
been  detrimental  to  the  islanders  in  any  way.  Those  who 
were  addicted  to  the  use  of  tobacco  and  other  bad  habits,  dis- 
continued them,  and  a  more  careful  and  earnest  Christian  life 
was  instituted,  which  resulted  shortly  in  the  conversion  of 
nearly  if  not  quite  every  soul  on  the  island.  A  school  has 
been  established  by  the  denomination.  The  missionary  spirit 
has  also  come  upon  them,  and  there  are  now  several  of  their 
number  preparing  in  various  w^ays  to  work  for  the  good  and 
uplifting  of  their  fellow  beings  on  other  islands. 

There  is,  perhaps,  no  other  part  of  the  world  where  Chris- 
tianity can  show  such  evident  fruits  as  in  Oceania.  In  many 
instances  the  people,  as  a  body,  have  accepted  the  religion 
brought  them  by  the  white  men.  It  is  true  that  it  has  in 
many  instances  been  in  a  very  nominal  way,  and  it  is  also  true 
that  with  the  introduction  of  light,  vices  and  wickedness  have 
been  brought  in  ;  but  it  shows  that  the  people,  as  a  race,  are 
tractable  and  susceptible  to  good  influences.  Moreover  it  is 
true  here,  as  in  other  places,  that  where  the  gospel  gathers  its 
trophies  for  eternal  life,  sin  and  vice  mark  their  victims  for 
deo'radation  and  death. 


Q 


Oh 


a 


o 


NEW  ZEALAND. 


AS8ING  through  the  midst  of  Oceania  in  the  direc- 
tion in  Avhich  we  enter  it,  we  come  to  the  islands  of 
Xew  Zeabind.  The  distance  from  San  Francisco  to 
Auckland  is  5375  miles.  After  sojourning  for  a 
time  among  the  minute  specks  of  land  which  generally  com- 
pose these  parts  of  Oceania,  it  is  with  quite  a  degree  of  com- 
fort that  we  retire  at  night  upon  an  island  so  large  that  we  feel 
no  danger  of  falling  out  of  bed  into  the  ocean.  New  Zealand 
consists  chiefly  of  two  main  parts,  known  respectively 
as  the  North  and  South  Islands,  thougli  ([uite  commonly 
the  latter  is  called  Middle  Island,  out  of  respect  for  a  small 
one  which  lies  still  south  of  the  principal  body,  and  which  is 
also  called  South,  or  Stewart's  Island.  The  group  is  nearly 
one  thousand  miles  long,  and  two  hundred  miles  wide  at  the 
broadest  part.  The  coast  line  is  over  three  thousand  miles  in 
in  extent.  New  Zealand  lies  one  thousand  two  hundred 
miles  east  of  Australia.  It  was  discovered  by  Tasman,  in 
1642,  and  afterward  visited  by  Captain  Cook  in  1769.  The 
area  is  estimated  at  over  one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand 
square  miles,  of  which  North  Island  contains  forty-four  thou- 
sand four  hundred  and  sixty-seven,  and  South  Island  over 
fifty-eigh t  thousan d . 

New  Zealand  enjoys  the  distinction  of  being  the  first  coun- 
try of  importance  to  receive  the  new-born  day.  As  is  quite 
well  known,  the  180th  dearee  of  longitude  east  or  west  of 
Greenwich  has   been  agreed  upon  as  the  line  where  the  day 

[55] 


56  NE]V  ZEALAND. 

sliall  1)0  changed.  This  is  called  tlie  '' day  line."  It  passes 
just  east  of  New  Zealand ;  and  in  crossing  the  line,  going 
west,  a  day  is  ski|)})ed  or  dropped  ;  that  is,  a  new  day  is 
begun.  In  crossing  toward  the  east,  the  opposite  course  is 
imrsiied  ;  that  is,  a  day  is  repeated.  The  change  is  made  by 
sailors  in  the  night  in  which  the  vessel  is  nearest  the  line,  so 
that  in  one  case  if  the  passenger  goes  to  sleep  on  Tuesday 
evening,  he  wakes  up  on  Thursday  morning.  If,  on  the  other 
hand,  he  is  going  east,  and  retires  on  Tuesday  evening,  he 
wakes  up  and  finds  it  Tuesday  morning  again. 

The  reason  for  this  will  be  apparent  upon  a  little  careful 
thought ;  for  it  is  always  sunset  at  some  point  on  the  earth, 
and  always  sunrise,  and  noon,  and  midnight,  at  other  points  at 
the  same  time.  Let  us  imagine  that  we  could  travel  around 
the  earth  as  rapidly  as  the  earth  revolves  upon  its  axis,  and 
we  start  out  from  London,  or  from  any  other  place,  at  sunrise, 
on  Tuesday  morning,. and  travel  west.  It  would  remain  sun- 
rise of  the  same  day  with  us  all  the  time;  but  wdien  we  came 
to  the  starting-place,  we  would  have  to  call  it  next  day ;  for 
those    who   remained    there    would    have    had    noon,    sunset, 


midnight,  and  now  would  have  their  second  morning,  which 
would  be  Wednesday.  Therefore  we  must  change  our  reckon- 
ing, so  that  at  that  instant  in  any  place  east  of  London  we 
would  call  it  Tuesday  morning,  but  at  any  point  west  of  that 
line,  it  would  be  Wednesday.  That  would  be  the  place  where 
the  day  would  change ;  but  for  convenience  men  have  chosen 
a  line  that  passes  through  no  habitable  country,  and  have 
fixed  that  point  as  a  place  where  the  day  should  change.  We 
may  believe,  too,  that  this  is  the  line  on  which  the  Maker 
designed  that  the  new  day  shall  begin.  Now  it  makes  no 
difference  at  what  time  we  cross  that  line  either  way ;  we 
must  recognize  that  it  is  one  day  on  one  side  of  it,  and  another 
day  on  the  other  side.     The  line  chosen  is  the  180th  meridian 


BAY  LIKE. 


57 


of  longitude  from  Greenwich,  which  we  cross  just  before  reach- 
ing New  Ze.'dand  from  the  coast ;  this  being  so,  we  see  how 
the  day  comes  first  to  New  Zealand. 

Some  people  imagine  that  they  see  in  this  circumstance  a 
difficulty  in  observing  the  Sabbath  ;  but  instead  of  there  being 
a  difficulty,  this  is  the  very  provision  by  which  all  difficulty  in 
the  matter  is  obviated.     By   this  arrangement   each    day  is 


QUEENSTOWN,     NeW    ZEALAND. 

measured  off  by  one  revolution  of  the  earth  ;  and  when  it  is 
finished,. it  is  discharged  from  the  calendar,  and  a  new  one 
takes  its  place  at  this  point.  Hence,  wherever  we  may  be  on 
the  face  of  the  earth,  the  day  comes  to  us  with  its  full  meas- 
ure of  twenty-four  hours,  and  then  is  succeeded  by  another  of 
exactly  equal  length.  It  is  true  that  by  traveling  east  or  west 
the  length  of  the  day  may  be  varied ;  but  at  the  day  line  these 
variations  are  all  rectified,  and  in  circumnavigating  the  globe 
one  finds  that  he  has  done  so  without  disarranging  his  calendar. 


[58] 


A  Maori  Chief. 


THE  MAORIS.  59 

The  population  of  New  Zealand,  in  1891,  exclusive  of 
aborigines,  was  nearly  six  hundred  and  twenty-seven  thou- 
sand, and  these  are,  with  hut  few  exceptions,  the  immediate 
descendants  of  those  who  came  from  Great  Britain.  But  the 
transient  visitor  is  more  interested  in  becoming  acquainted 
with  the  aboriginals  than  with  the  people  of  his  own  kith  and 
kin.  These  are  called  Maoris.  The  name  is  pronounced  by 
giving  the  "  a"  the  broad  sound,  as  in  "ah,"  then  sounding 
the  ''  0,"  though  it  is  commonly  but  incorrectly^  pronounced  as 
if  spelled  '•  Mowries."  The}^  numbered  at  the  last  census,  over 
forty-one  thousand.  They  have  been  regarded  as  standing 
rather  in  advance  of  any  other  aboriginal  or  savage  people  ever 
discovered.  It  is  true  that  they  practiced  cannibalism  to  some 
extent,  and  were  addicted  to  the  vices  of  the  natural  heart, 
besides  having  since  learned  others  with  which  men  in  their 
simple  state  seem  to  be  apparently  unacquainted  ;  but  they 
also  possessed  a  high  degree  of  intelligence,  and  an  independ- 
ent and  self-reliant  spirit.  Their  traditions  and  religion 
evinced  a  hidier  degree  of  intellectual  discernment  than  is 
generally  exhibited  by  savages ;  and,  strange  as  it  may  seem, 
there  are  to  be  found  in  these  traditions  many  remarkable 
similarities  to  the  Bible  account  of  creation  and  the  subse- 
quent destruction  of  the  earth  by  a  flood,  and  also  of  redemp- 
tion, their  god  Maui  being  the  reputed  saviour  of  his  race. 

The  history  of  New  Zealand  and  of  its  occupation  by 
Europeans  is  in  many  respects  a  repetition,  on  a  small  scale,  of 
the  transformation  of  the  United  States  from  a  land  of  wild- 
ness  and  savagery  to  a  country  of  prosperous  civilization. 
Encroachment  and  cruelty  have  bgen  inflicted  oftentimes  by 
the  superior  race,  and  cunning  and  reckless  revenge  have 
often  been  employed  in  retaliation.  Relentlessly  has  civiliza- 
tion pushed  its  way  step  by  step  into  the  regions  of  untutored 
life.     Wisdom  and  justice  have    not   always    attended   these 


60 


JSTEW  ZEALAND. 


steps,  and  when,  finally,  the  poor  natives  could  bear  no  more, 
a  bloody  massacre  would  be  executed  by  the  exasperated 
Maoris,  which  would  call  down  upon  them  the  wrath  of  the 
survivors  and  of  the  sympathizing  whites.  Gradually  the 
original  race  is  fading  away.  The  introduction  of  civilization 
brought  with  it  vices  to  which  the  simple  races  were  unac- 
customed, and  to  which  they  have  ever  proved  such  easy  vic- 


GisBORNE,   New  Zealaxd. 

tims.  Under  the  blighting  influence  of  drunkenness  and 
licentiousness,  these  human  flowers  of  the  wild  woods  have 
withered  away.  Still,  Christianity  has  done  a  good  work  for 
the  Maoris  in  nearly  every  part  of  the  country.  To  some 
degree  nearly  all  of  those  who  remain  have  embraced  its 
teachings  and  come  under  its  influences.  It  is  said  that  soon 
after  the  introduction  of  Christianity  the  entire  race  received 
it,  so  that  the  pioneer  missionary,  Samuel  Marsden,  exclaimed 
that  "  a  race  of  pagans    has    been    Christianized."     But  the 


A  MAORI  PORTRAIT.  61 

cupidity  and  dishonesty  practiced  by  other  white  men  lead 
many  of  the  natives  to  prefer  their  heathen  religion  to  that 
system  which  to  them  seemed  to  embrace  such  cruelty  ;  there- 
fore they  returned  to  it  for  a  time. 

The  Maoris  are  of  a  brown  color.  Their  hair  is  straight, 
and  their  features  not  at  all  repulsive,  except  as  they  are 
made  so  by  the  favorite  custom  of  tatooing.  By  this  process 
an  indelible  coloring  matter  is  introduced  into  the  skin  in 
fanciful  and  fantastic  patterns  by  a  painful  operation.  Some- 
times they  who  have  been  thus  disfigured,  desire  to  appear 
more  civilized  than  those  marks  will  permit;  but  the  die  hav- 
ing been  cast,  the  case  cannot  be  altered ;  the  marks  must  be 
retained  through  life. 

It  was  quite  amusing  to  witness,  upon  one  occasion,  the 
discomfiture  of  a  Maori  chief  on  being  made  aware  of  his 
appearance,  as  it  was  probably  the  first  revelation  of  himself 
that  had  ever  come  to  him.  We  were  lying  in  the  beautiful 
Bay  of  Islands  on  a  lovely  day,  during  which  time  the  steamer 
was  coaling  and  taking  cargo  at  different  wharves.  There 
were  at  times  quite  a  large  number  of  Maoris  on  the  decks 
looking  for  something  with  which  to  amuse  themselves.  They 
discovered  that  my  son,  then  a  lad  of  ten  years,  had  some 
skill  in  the  use  of  his  pencil,  and  sought  to  make  a  practical 
use  of  his  talent.  After  considerable  persuasion  he  was  in- 
duced to  draw  the  portrait  of  the  chief  above  referred  to, 
whose  face  was  badlv  disfiaured  with  tatoo  marks.  The  artist 
located  himself  with  paper  and  pencil,  and  the  old  man  com- 
posed his  features  and  vesture  with  care  and  dignity,  and  sat 
stone  still  for  five  minutes,  when  the  picture  was  done;  and  it 
was  really  quite  true  to  life. 

But  it  was  a  sight  to  behold  the  old  man's  countenance  as 
he  looked  upon  what  purported  to  be  a  representation  of  his 
own  physiognomy.     He  rejected   the   imputed  likeness  with 


62 


lYJ'JW  ZEALAND. 


great  disdain  and  evident  disgust,  which  he  expressed  with 
earnest  words  that  we  could  not  understand,  but  which 
alarmed  the  boy  artist ;  but  the  displeasure  of  the  subject 
was  more  than  overmatched  by  the  amusement  of  the  younger 
members  of  the  company,  who  recognized  and  attested  to  the 
faithfulness  of  the  picture  with  shouts  of  laughter  and  re- 
peated assurances  of  its  correctness.  This  only  added  to  the 
discomfiture  of  the  chief,  who  finally  took  the  piece  of  paper, 
and  satisfied  himself  by  carefully  tracing  on  his  face  all  the 
marks  on  the  picture,  and  then  grunted  his  acknowledgment 
of  the  likeness. 


Maori  Salutation. 

The  Maori  method  of  greeting  is  by  rubbing  noses  instead 
of  kissing ;  and  this  ceremony,  on  extraordinary  occasions, 
such  as  a  funeral  or  a  formal  reception,  becomes,  as  I  have 
been  told  by  them,  and  as  one  can  well  imagine,  a  tedious  and 
sore  proceeding,  after  the  hundredth  rubbing  of  the  same  nose. 


A   NIGHT  AT  SEA.  63 

It  was  on  this  trip  to  the  north  that  I  had  my  first  experi- 
ence in  seasickness.  We  left  Auckland  late  in  the  evening  on 
board  a  little  coaster  called  the  "  Clansman."  Within  the 
harbor  all  was  quiet  enough,  and  we  little  suspected  what 
awaited  us  outside,  so  we  went  to  our  berths  at  once,  antici- 
pating a  good  night's  rest ;  but  once  upon  the  open  sea,  we 
found  ourselves  tossing  and  plunging  about  under  a  fierce 
storm  of  wind  and  rain  from  the  east,  which  blow  directly 
against  the  rock-bound  coast  along  which  we  sailed.  Tliere 
were  three  of  us  in  a  two-berth  cabin,  and  it  fell  to  my  lot  to  try 
to  occupy  the  settee;  but  my  principal  employment  was  falling 
off  and  aettino'  on  a^ain.     The  storm  increased  till  morning. 

At  three  o'clock  there  came  an  unusuall}^  great  sea,  which 
sent  our  little  craft  so  f^ir  over  that  it  seemed  to  hesitate  as 
to  whether  it  would  come  back  or  not.  I  began  to  think  that 
it  might  not,  and  the  women  and  children  were  quite  sure  of 
it,  as  I  judged  by  their  screaming.  While  the  steamer  was 
deciding  the  matter,  it  was  struck  by  another  wave  that  sent 
it  a  few  degrees  farther  over,  and  by  this  time  the  writer  was 
trying  to  hold  onto  the  floor,  having  abandoned  the  bed. 
The  dishes  in  the  racks  came  down  with  a  crash,  and  many 
barrels  of  sea  water  came  down  the  gangway,  adding  greatly 
to  the  dismay  of  the  already  terribly  frightened  women.  In 
that  moment  of  suspense  I  lost  my  grip  on  my  digestive  ap- 
paratus, and  I  have  since  known  all  about  what  seasickness  is. 

We  knew,  however,  that  we  were  in  the  care  of  our  heavenly 

7  7  V 

Father,  and  had  no  feeling  of  terror,  though  the  night  was 
pronounced  by  the  captain  to  be  one  of  the  worst  he  had  ever 
experienced.  The  sight  of  the  sea  the  next  morning  was 
orand  and  awful.  Wo  were  not  far  from  the  cliffs  against 
which  the  massive  waves  hurled  themselves  with  gigantic 
force  and  thundering  roar,  sending  foam  and  spray  a  hundred 
feet  into  the  air. 


n: 

(3 

iz; 
P 
o 

CO 


SCENERY  OF  NEW  ZEALAND. 


HE  scenery  of  New  Zealand  is  classed,  and  right- 
fully, too,  amongst  the  most  beautifnl  in  the  world. 
Its  deeply  indented  coast  abounds  with  rocky  preci- 
pices and  beetling  crags. 
It  would  be  impossible  to  give,  within  the  limits  of  this 
sketch,  an  adequate  description  of  the  many  places  of  surpass- 
ing interest  to  be  found  in  this  island  country.  Indeed,  North 
Island  is  nearly  everywhere  a  scene  of  beauty.  As  we  sailed 
into  the  narrow  entrance  of  Whangaroa  harbor,  there,  upon 
the  face  of  a  lofty  cliff,  was  outlined,  in  natural  rock,  the  like- 
ness of  a  profile  said  very  correctly  to  represent  that  of  Lord 
Nelson;  for  this  reason  his  name  is  given  to  the  rock.  The 
forests  are  the  most  attractive  that  I  have  ever  visited.  They 
consist  of  stately  trees  of  kauri  pine  and  other  varieties  of  wood 
unknown  to  our  Northern  clime,  intertwined  with  wreaths  and 
loops  and  climbers,  and  interspersed  with  stately  ferns.  From 
the  kauri  there  exudes  a  resin-like  srum  of  a  beautiful, 
amber  color,  which  hardens  into  lumps  as  clear  as  crystal. 
From  trees  and  forests  long  extinct  this  gum  has  been 
deposited  in  the  earth,  and  it  is  a  favorite  employment 
of  the  natives  as  well  as  many  whites  to  search  after  and  dig- 
it. This  is  done  by  the  use  of  sharp  iron  prods,  with  which 
the  ground  is  punched.  This  reveals  the  presence  of  masses 
of  gum,  which  are  then  dug  out,  secured,  and  sold  to  traders 
who  find  a  market  for  it  in  London.     It  is  used  in  the  manu- 


facture of  varnish  and  coloring  matter. 


[(55] 


GG 


ISCEXERY   OF  NEW  ZEALAND. 


Auckland  is  the  principal  city  of  North  Island,  and  indeed 
of  the  group,  containing,  together  with  its  suburbs,  about  fifty 
thousand  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on  a  narrow  neck  of  land 
where  the  island  is  nearly  cut  in  two  by  the  sea.  It  is  a 
beautiful  city,  pictures(iuely  located  on  the  green  slopes  of  a 
fine  harbor.  Within  its  suburbs  stands  Mt.  Eden,  an  extinct 
A^olcano,  whose  summit  and  crater  is  one  of  the  principal 
attractions  of  the  i»l;icc.    • 


JwYTTLETOX,     >,' KW     ZlOALAM). 

The  Wonderland  of  New  Zealand  is  located  about  one  hun- 
dred and  sixty  miles  south  of  Auckland.  Thirty-four  miles  of 
this  distance  is  traveled  by  coach  from  Oxford  to  Ilotorua. 
This  place  seems  to  be  separated  from  the  notorious  infernal 
regions  by  a  very  thin  skin  of  earthly  substance.  The  air  is 
heavy  with  the  odor  of  brimstone.  First  impressions  are  cer- 
tainly not  very  assuring,  and  one  is  quite  apt  to  wish  himself 
at  a  safe  distance  from  a  resrion  that  seems  to  threaten  mo- 


WONDERLAND.  67 

mentary  (lestructioii  and  extinction.  Then  we  reflect  that 
there  are  these  people  who  have  lived  here  for  years  ;  h^nce 
it  would  he  a  pity  if  we  could  not  brace  up  our  courage  for  a 
few  hours'  sio-ht-seeiuff.  80  with  a  firm  lirii)  on  our  moral 
courage,  we  dispel  the  trembling  of  the  flesli. 

In  boiling  springs,  through  fissures  of  the  quaking  ground, 
throuo'h  crevices  and  everywhere,  heat,  steam,  and  scalding 
water,  issue  forth.  The  indolent  natives  have  but  to  place 
their  uncooked  food  in  pots  or  kettles  in  some  boiling  cal- 
dron, and  nature  does  the  rest.  The  thermal  springs  have  a 
reputation  for  excellent  therapeutic  qualities. 

Prior  to  1886,  Lake  Rotomahana  was  a  beautiful  sheet  of 
w^ater,  into  whose  bosom,  over  the  most  wonderful  terraces  of 
pure  white  or  pink  deposits,  the  heated  w^aters  were  poured. 
The  loveliness  of  these  terraces  travelers  never  tire  of  try- 
ing to  describe.  The  accumulating  sediment  brought  up  by 
the  water  through  the  craters  formed  in  exquisite  patterns  of 
lace-work ;  and  one  mioht  stand  on  the  maro^in  of  the  craters, 
and  look  far  down  into  the  limpid  depths  to  behold  still  more 
delicate  forms  below,  as  the  simmering  waters  rose  and  flowed 
gently  over  the  brim  of  the  beautiful  white  terraces. 

But  these  scenes  of  beauty  have  passed  away  forever.  In 
the  year  just  mentioned  an  eruption  took  place,  by  which  the 
place  was  greatly  marred  and  changed.  The  beautiful  ter- 
races are  no  more.  In  their  place  and  also  in  tlie  lake  are 
rude  heaps  of  blul)bering  mud ;  and  yet  its  weirdness  and 
awe-inspiring  aspect  surely  cannot  have  suffered  in  the  revo- 
lution. A  recent  writer  in  the  Picturesque  Atlas  has  thus 
described  this  awful  upheaval  of  nature  :  — 

"  Reference  to  the  lost  glories  of  Rotomahana  naturally 
carries  the  mind  back  to  the  incidents  of  the  eruption.  Soon 
after  one  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  June  10,  1886,  the 
inhabitants  w^ere    startled  from  their  slumbers  by  shocks    of 


Q 
< 

<1 


'X 
o 


THE  ERUPTION.  69 

earthquake,  occurring  at  frequent  intervals,  and  accompanied 
by  a  prolonged  rumbling  noise.  Before  two  o'clock  their  atten- 
tion Avas  concentrated  upon  a  black  and  lowering  cloud  in  a 
highly  electrical  condition,  which  seemed  to  be  settling  down 
over  the  truncated  cone  of  the  triple-peaked  Mount  Tarawera, 
immediately  at  the  back  of  Lake  Rotomahana.  A  few  minutes 
later,  a  terrific  explosion  rent  its  broad  top  open  from  end  to 
end  with  a  convulsive  tremor  that  was  felt  along  the  East  Coast. 

''  For  the  next  hour  the  awe-struck  and  tremblino-  watchers 
were  witnesses  of  phenomena  whose  fierce  vigor  and  dread 
solemnity  were  enough  to  appall  the  heart  of  the  stoutest. 
Forked  lightning  played  continuously  about  the  peaks  of  the 
mountain  and  its  inky  canopy,  from  which  also  fiery  balls 
darted  hither  and  thither,  flashing  into  broad  ribbons  of  flame, 
or  dropping  in  showers  of  huge  sparks.  Blood-red  tongues 
issuing  from  the  darkness  lapped  the  face  of  the  sky,  and 
vanished.  Incandescent  bombs  rolled  down  the  precipitous 
sides  of  Tarawera ;  the  internal  fires  maintained  their  lurid 
glare ,  and  to  add  to  the  striking  horrors  of  the  scene,  earth- 
quake shocks  at  ten-minute  intervals  formed  the  prelude  to 
the  fearful  roaring  of  the  volcano,  which  united  with  the 
crackling  of  the  electrical  discharges  to  produce  a  vast  and  in- 
describable noise. 

"At  Auckland,  distant  one  hundred  and  twentv  miles  in  a 
direct  line,  and  at  the  Bay  of  Islands,  one  hundred  miles 
f^irther  north,  the  people  were  aroused  from  their  sleep  by 
reports  as  of  a  war-vessel  in  distress,  and  they  were  heard  also 
as  far  south  as  Nelson  and  Christchurch  in  the  sister  island. 
More  than  that,  the  flashes  of  light  were  seen  at  Gisborne  aiul 
Auckland,  and  the  pungent  gases  which  charged  the  atmos- 
phere, and  almost  suffocated  the  denizens  of  the  Lake  Dis- 
trict, were  distinctly  perceptible  at  Tauranga  and  Gisborne 
during  the  fall  there  of  the  volcanic  dust. 


70 


SCENERY   OF  NEW  ZEALAND. 


'' Meantime,  how  fared  the  hapless  residents?  While  a 
l)itterly  cold  wind  was  raiiing  with  the  force  of  a  tornado 
throngh  I  he  devoted  district,  uprooting  great  trees  in  the 
Tikitapn  hnsh,  the  native  inhabitants  were  being  overwhelmed 
in  swift  destruction.  A  tremendous  ernption  of  scoriie,  hot 
stones,  and  licpiid  mud  }>onred  down  upon  tlie  Maori  settle- 


Wellingtox. 


ments  around  the  margin  of  Lake  Rotomahana,  and  entombed 
both  them  and  their  inhabitants, —  Moura  with  its  forty 
people,  and  Te  Ariki  with  its  forty-five,  while  Te  Wairoa 
suffered  less  severely,  only  some  ten  or  a  dozen  aborioinals 
losing  their  lives.  The  two  European  hotels  were  wrecked ; 
but  all  their  terror-stricken  inmates,  save  a  3'oung  English 
tourist  named  Edwin  Bainbridge,  were  fortunate  enough  to 
make  good  their  escape. 


THE  ERUPTION.  71 

"  On  the  morning  after  the  eruption,  the  sun  rose  upon  a 
scene  of  mournful  desolation.  The  eighteen  miles  of  country 
between  Rotorua  and  Rotomahana  (the  prefix  "  Roto  "  signify- 
ing "lake")  were  covered  wdth  a  bluish-grey  mantle  of  thick, 
adhesive  volcanic  mud  to  an  average  depth  of  four  inches,  but 
deepening  as  one  approached  nearer  and  nearer  to  Tarawera. 
The  somber  surface  of  this  deposit  was  dotted  over  with  the 
bodies  of  rats  and  mice,  while  homeless  birds  wheeled  overhead 
in  affrighted  bewilderment ;  the  pretty  little  oasis  of  Tikitapu 
bush  lay  stretched  in  devastation  ;  the  Blue  Lake  at  its  foot 
had  been  transformed  into  a  sheet  of  dirty  brown  water;  the 
Green  Lake,  Rotokakahi,  had  sunk  its  beauties  in  repulsive  tur- 
bidity; the  ivliare  roofs  of  Wairoa,  peering  above  the  solitude 
of  debris^  told  their  own  mute  tale  of  dire  calamity ;  Moura 
and  Te  Ariki,  with  their  scores  of  dead,  were  forever  swal- 
lowed up  from  human  ken ;  the  terraces  would  no  longer 
ravish  the  eye  of  the  beholder,  and  Rotomahana  had  suddenly 
become  a  misnomer  —  from  a  lake  it  had  been  transformed 
into  a  seething,  steaming,  and  raging  caldron  of  mud  and  slime." 

The  greater  island  is  not  so  celebrated  for  its  scenery  as  is 
the  northern  one,  but  it  has  many  points  of  interest  in  this 
line.  For  the  uses  of  agriculture,  however,  it  is  better  adapted 
than  its  neighbor,  and  the  various  branches  of  farming  are  suc- 
cessfully carried  on  upon  its  interior  plains.  There  are  four 
cities  in  New  Zealand  containing  more  than  ten  thousand  in- 
habitants each.  Wellington,  the  capital  city,  is  located  at  the 
southern  extremity  of  the  North  Island,  and  has  a  population 
of  thirty-three  thousand.  It  is  said  that  the  inhabitants  of 
Wellington  may  be  known  by  the  habit  they  all  have  of  holding 
with  one  hand  onto  their  hats.  The  city  lies  on  Cook's  Strait, 
where  a  strong  current  of  air  nearly  always  prevails  through 
the  narrow  water  channel.  Consequently  the  capital  city  has  a 
reputation  for  wind  that  is  exclusi^  ely  its  own.     On  the  east- 


72  SCENERY  OF  NEW  ZEALAND. 

ern  shore  of  South  Tshmd  are  the  cities  of  Christchurch  and 
Diinedin,  each  with  a  popuhition  of  about  forty-five  thousand. 

The  colony's   staple  articles    of  export   are   wool,  frozen 
meat,  grain,  and  Kauri  gum.     Of  the  latter  there  was    ex- 
ported in  1890  and  for  four  years  previous,  over  seven  thou- 
sand  tons  annually.     There  are  about  two  thousand  miles  of 
railway  in  operation,  but  the  railways  are  not  all  to  the  coun- 
try that  they  might  be,  at  least  so  it  seems  to  one  accustomed 
to   the  thrift  and  business  of  the  American  railways.     The 
prices  of  transportation   are  held  so  unreasonably  high  that 
but  little  choice  is  left  w^ith  the    producer   between   leaving 
his  goods  at  home  to   spoil,  or   sending   them  away  by  rail 
to   have  the   produce    consumed   in   freight   and  commission 
charges.     In  consequence,  fruits  and   other  produce  may  be 
abundant,  and  possess  but  little  money  value  in  the  country 
districts,  while  at  the  same  time  in  the  cities  they  are  sold  at 
prices  that  are  w^ell-nigh  inaccessible  to  the  poor.     Speculation 
and  bad  management  have  in  the  past  done  much  to  injure  the 
country,  but  in  these  things  it  is  gratifying  to  know  that  a 
reformation  has  been  instituted,  and  the  prospects  are  percepti- 
bly brightening. 

To  most  people  the  climate  of  New  Zealand  is  very  con- 
genial. The  northern  extremity  of  the  islands  reaches  to 
about  thirty-five  degrees  south  latitude,  and  they  extend 
south  to  al)out  forty-six  degrees.  This,  it  will  be  seen, 
includes  only  the  temperate  regions.  The  atmosphere  is 
furthermore  tempered  by  the  close  proximity  of  the  sea  on 
every  hand. 

But  the  brief  month  of  the  limit  of  our  stay  in  this  beau- 
tiful island  country  having  now  expired,  we  must  take  the 
next  boat  for  Sydney,  the  eastern  doorway  to  the  Australian 
continent.  We  shall  not  have  to  wait  long ;  for  the  Union 
Steamship  Company  have  regular  boats,  and  fine  vessels  they 


LEAVING   NEW  ZEALAND.  73 

are,  too.  Besides  these,  there  are  the  California  boats  once  in 
four  weeks,  and  the  irregular  steamers.  The  distance  from 
Auckland  is  twelve  hundred  and  eighty-one  miles,  and  the 
time  occupied  is  between  four  and  five  days  ;  for  though  the 
boats  are  comfortable,  in  point  of  speed  they  are  not  to  be 
compared  to  the  "ocean  greyhounds"  of  the  Atlantic. 

If  there  really  be  a  "  jumping-off'  place,"  it  is  probably  in 
the  region  of  the  North  Cape  of  New  Zealand.  The  passenger 
who  turns  this  corner  without  experiencing  such  a  shaking  up 
as  he  will  not  ask  for  again,  is  more  fortunate  than  the  general 
average.  It  is  here  that  Neptune  and  Boreas  have  one  of 
their  favorite  pla3^grounds,  and  happy  is  the  man  who  slips 
past  while  they  are  napping.  We  were  not  among  that  happy 
few,  but  obtained  our  last  view  of  New  Zealand  rocks  at  a 
time  when  it  seemed  about  as  well  to  say  good-by  to  the  earth 
altogether ;  though,  as  for  saying  good-by,  w^e  had  reached 
that  hard-hearted  degree  of  seasickness  ;ut  which  even  fare- 
wells had  lost  their  interest.  It  really  seemed  as  though  w^e 
were  coming  to  the  place  where  people  walk  with  their  feet 
up ;  for  our  heads  went  down,  and  our  feet  up,  and  vice 
versa,  until  we  hardly  knew  which  way  they  belonged. 

In  support  of  the  idea  that  this  is  the  much-talked-of 
jumping-off  place,  we  have  the  Maori  superstition.  They  call 
the  North  Cape  Te  Reinga,  which  signifies  the  third  hell. 
This  is,  however,  not  so  bad  a  place  as  it  might  be  ;  for  there 
are  yet  seven  regions  below,  or  worse  than  the  third.  To  this 
point  of  land  all  spirits  of  the  dead  are  said  to  come  ;  and  after 
spending  a  short  time  upon  the  brow  of  the  high  cliff  that 
forms  the  extremity  of  the  cape.  ])emoaning  their  sins,  they 
plunge  through  the  dark  waters  into  the  under  world. 


WS'W!?^!!'!^''^^''!^^^^*^^??^' 


Q 


AUSTRALIA. 


0  people  ill  the  United  States,  Australia  has  ever 
been  the  land  that  is  far  off.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  it 
is  as  far  away  as  any  country  on  earth  can  be,  on 
account  of  its  being  nearer  antipodal  to  us  than  any 
other  land.  In  our  atlases  its  map  generally  occupies  a  small 
portion  of  one  of  the  back  pages,  and  the  description  is  meager 
and  incomplete.  Consequently,  in  the  minds  of  very  many 
people  it  has,  up  to  a  recent  date,  existed  in  a  vague,  indistinct 
form.  Its  mime  caused  visions  of  kangaroos  and  naked 
savages  to  arise  in  the  mind.  But  within  a  few  years  the 
perfection  of  the  means  of  travel  and  intercommunication  has 
brought  the  remote  portions  of  the  earth  very  much  nearer 
the  centers.  Indeed,  it  does  not  require  so  great  an  outlay  of 
time  and  comfort  to  reach  Australia,  or  even  to  circumnavigate 
the  globe,  in  these  days,  as  it  did  to  ci-oss  the  Atlantic  in 
1850.  In  consequence,  the  volume  of  travel  is  very  greatly 
increased.  Multitudes  are  going  hither  and  thither  all  over 
the  earth.  To  go  around  the  world  in  these  days  does  not  pre- 
sent as  formidable  considerations  as  it  did  to  go  from  Chicago 
to  California  in  the  days  before  the  iron  horse  had  crossed  the 
plains. 

The  results  of  this  remarkable  revolution  in  modes  of  con- 
veyance are  notable  in  many  respects.  Formerly  generation 
after  generation  lived  and  died  without  going  out  of  sight  of 
their  native  hills.  Under  these  circumstances,  the  languages 
were  molded  into  dialects  peculiar  to  the  various  localities.     It 

r  7.-)  ] 


70  AUSTRALIA. 

was  quite  easy  by  the  speech  of  nn  Englishman  to  distinguish 
the  county  in  whidi  he  was  born,  if  he  happened  to  stray 
from  it;  and  even  in  America  the  peculiar  talk  of  a  Yankee, 
a  Southerner,  or  a  Westerner  might  easily  be  discerned. 
Under  the  present  state  of  things,  these  distinctions  are  disap- 
pearing, gradually,  it  is  true,  but  yet  perceptibly.  Then,  too, 
the  different  portions  of  the  earth  are  becoming  acquainted 
with  each  other,  and  this  will  certainly  result  in  a  more 
brotherly  feeling  between  those  of  various  nationalities;  and 
this,  too,  we  already  very  happily  discern.  It  manifests  itself 
in  a  greatly  increased  interest  in  missionary  affairs.  Nor  is 
this  manifestation  confined  to  Christendom  ;  for,  strange  to 
say,  within  the  last  few  years  the  Orient  has  caught  the  same 
spirit,  and  the  religious  systems  of  the  East  are  seeking  to 
reciprocate  the  efforts  of  Christianity  by  sending  their  mes- 
sengers to  our  shores.  Already  we  have  in  various  centers  of 
Christian  light  the  representatives  of  the  teachings  of  Moham- 
med, Gautama,  Confucius,  and  other  earth-born  philosophers. 
Under  the  prevailing  circumstances,  our  knowledge  of  the 
world  is  greatly  increasing,  and  new  avenues  of  thought  and 
investigation  are  opening  up.  A^  we  contemplate  this  state 
of  things,  the  mind  irresistibly  goes  to  the  words  of  the 
prophet  Daniel,  where,  speaking  of  the  time  of  the  end,  he 
says  that  "  many  shall  run  to  and  fro,  and  knowledge  shall  be 
increased."  Dan.  12  : 4.  There  never  was  a  time  when  these 
words  were  so  strikingly  fulfilled  as  in  what  we  witness  every- 
where to-day.  In  every  direction  trains  and  steamers  are 
rushing  with  ever-augmenting  crowds  of  people  running  to 
and  fro.  This  commingling  of  men, —  this  free  intercourse 
between  different  and  distant  parts  of  the  earth, —  produces 
necessarily  an  extraordinary  activity  of  mind  ;  and  an  increase 
of  knowledge  is  the  necessary  result.  Upon  no  other  topics  is 
investigation  more  active  than  upon  those  themes  which  are 


FIRST   GLIMPSES.  77 

directly  connected  with  the  Bihle,  and  iiir  greater  light  sur- 
rounds the  sacred  Word  to-day  than  ever  before.  This  fact 
in  its  turn  promotes  the  spirit  of  brotherhood  ;  for  as  men  come 
to  know  more  of  the  Bible,  they  will  better  realize  the  claims 
which  their  fellows-men  have  upon  them.  The  spirit  of  the 
Bible  is  a  spirit  of  helpfulness  and  uplifting.  God  in  his  prov- 
idence has  led  the  minds  of  men  to  invent  and  improve  the 
means  of  travel,  as  the  spirit  of  l)il)le  philanthropy  leads 
Christian  men  and  women  to  utilize  these  means  for  the 
spread  of  scriptural  truth  and  the  knowledge  of  the  w^ay  of 
salvation  in  Christ.  At  the  same  time,  Satan  seizes  his  op- 
[)ortunity  to  scatter  darkness,  sin,  and  crime  by  the  same 
means,  and  he   does  not  fail  to  improve   it. 

The  first  glimpse  we  obtain  of  anything  that  belongs  to 
Australia,  as  we  approach  Sydney  from  the  east,  is  the  famous 
light-house  that  stands  at  the  Heads,  or  entrance  of  the  harbor. 
Its  light  is  one  of  the  most  celebrated  in  the  w^orld,  and  can 
be  seen  fifty  miles  out  on  the  sea.  When  on  shipboard,  the  only 
desideratum  is  to  get  to  land  ;  and  when  at  last  the  headlands 
appear  in  the  distance,  there  is  an  early  preparation  made  for 
the  happy  disembarkation,  in  order  that  not  a  moment  may  be 
lost  in  getting  the  feet  on  terra  firma.  Having  made  the  afore- 
said preparations,  let  us  take  a  seat  upon  the  upper  deck, 
w^here  we  can  w\atch  the  rapidly  developing  outlines  of  this 
new   land. 

Numerous  craft  are  passing  in  and  out  of  the  harbor.  A 
few  miles  to  the  south  is  the  entrance  to  Botany  Bay,  which 
has  the  unenviable,  world-wide  reputation  of  being  the  home  of 
the  penal  colony.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  all  the  notoriety  given 
it  by  common  report  does  not  belong  to  this  particular  location. 
The  first  party  of  criminals  deported  from  Great  Britain  to 
Australia  reached  Botany  Bay  in  1787,  but  it  was  supplanted 
in  a  very  short  time  by  the  discovery  of  Port  Jackson,  now 


[78] 


Sydney  Heads. 


_  BOTANY  BAY.  79 

Sydney  Ilarboi'.  Still,  the  name  of  the  penal  settlement  re- 
mains identified  with  its  first  location ;  and  not  only  so,  but 
Botany  Bay  has  become  a  generic  term,  in  which  is  embraced 
the  entire  enterprise  of  criminal  deportation  to  iVustralia.  As 
soon  as  the  country  assumed  sufficient  strength  to  protest,  it 
raised  such  a  cry  against  this  unfortunate  practice  that  it  was 
in  a  short  time  discontinued  ;  but  it  has  left  its  reproach  upon 
Australia.  Most  unwisely  was  it  inflicted,  and  it  is  unjustly 
perpetuated  in  the  minds  of  some  who  thereby  entertain  false 
impressions  of  Australian  society. 

The  entrance  to  Port  Jackson  is  a  narrow  strait  between 
high  walls  of  rocks.  From  the  south  cliff  may  be  seen  the  for- 
tifications and  cannon  which  guard  the  harbor ;  and  in  case 
an  enemy  attempted  to  enter,  several  similar  forts  and  cannon, 
for  there  are  a  number  of  them,  would  no  doubt  wake  up  to 
take  a  hand  in  the  reception.  But  we  enter  peaceably,  with- 
out a  challenge  from  the  sentinels  upon  the  ramparts,  and  now 
a  beautiful  scene  opens  to  view.  The  harbor  broadens  from 
the  entrance  to  an  irregular  width  of  perhaps :  two  miles.  On 
either  side  are  deep  indentations  and  bold  promontories.  The 
banks  are  not  lofty,  and  often  sloj^e  to  the  water  carpeted  with 
living  green.  Here  and  there  beautiful  villas  and  gardens 
appear.  It  is  six  miles  to  the  city  ;  but  w^e  were  not  destined 
to  proceed  ad  libitum.  Our  steamer  was  moored  in  one  of  the 
bays  in  which  the  harbor  abounds,  and  upon  inquiry  we  found 
that  the  Chinese  firemen  who  had  toiled  so  faithfully  to  bring 
us  over  the  waters,  were  objectionable  to  the  Maritime  Labor 
Union  in  Australia,  and  that  this  body  had  given  our  captain 
the  option  of  discharging  the  obnoxious  Celestials,  or  not  dis- 
charging his  cargo.  Not  feeling  at  liberty  to  accept  either  al- 
ternative at  once,  his  steamer  lay  several  days  in  the  harbor 
before  coming  to  the  wharf;  but  after  waiting  a  few  hours, 
the  passengers  were  transferred  by  a  tender  to  the  city. 


80  AUSTRALIA. 

The  uninitiated  traveler  is  generally  filled  with  a  feeling 
little  short  of  amazement  as  he  views  these  Australian  cities. 
Having  started  from  some  of  the  world's  great   centers,  and 
now  reached  the  antipodes,  he  expects  to  find  many  things 
quite  the  reverse  of  what  he  is  accustomed  to  at  home.     So  he 
will ;  but  generally  he  expects  to  find  crudeness,  an  absence 
of  civilized  thrift,  and  towns  that  are  following,  afar  off,  the 
fag-end    of  progress  and  enlightenment.     His  very  first  view 
of  any  of  the  half-dozen  leading  cities  of  Australia  will  scatter 
that  idea,  and  drive  it  so  far  from  his  mind  that  he  will  ahnost 
declare   that   he    never   entertained   it.      He  lands,  perhaps, 
at  Darling  Harbor  or  Circular  Quay,  in  the  heart  of  Sydne}", 
and  finds  himself  in  a  busy  city  of  over  four  hundred  thousand 
people.     This,  of  itself,  is  a  great  surprise  to  the  new-comer. 
As  he  traverses  the  streets,  he  finds  them  beautifully  paved, 
and  many  times  cleaner  than  any  street  he  ever  saw  in  New 
York,  Chicago,  or  any  of  the  other  great  cities  in  the  United 
States.     The  buildings  are  modern  in  style,  and  though  not  as 
lofty  as  many  seen  in  American  cities,  they  are  ornate,  attract- 
ive, and  Aery  substantial.     He  will  miss  street-cars  in  Sydney, 
though  the  streets  are  crowded    with  omnibuses  running  on 
regular  lines,  and  carrying  passengers  at  fares  that  are  graded 
according  to  the  distance,  from  a  penny  to  threepence.     If  his 
point  of  destination  is  any  of  the  suburbs,  he  goes  one  block 
from  the  main  street,  where  a  system  of  steam  trams  is  found, 
by  which  he  may  comfortably  and  cheaply  reach  his  destina- 
tion.    As  he  passes  through  the  retail  business  part  of  town, 
he  notices  that  more  pains  are  taken  in  arranging  attractive 
displays  in  windows  than  he  has  been  accustomed  to  witness- 
ing, and  also  that  more  time  is  taken   by  the  passers-by  to 
view    exhibitions  than  is  done  in  rushing  America,  where  a 
man,  if  he  should  be  seen  going  leisurely  along,  looking  at  pleas- 
ant sights,  would  almost  lose  his  reputation  of  being  a  man  of 


SYDNEY  STREETS. 


81 


business,  and  perhaps  be  looked  upon  as  a  very  undignified 
person,  on  account  of  condescending  to  such  trifles.  All 
classes  do  it  in  Australia,  however,  and  especially  upon  Satur- 
day evenings,  when  the  principal  streets  of  every  large  town 
are  literally  packed  with  people,  and  everybody,  with  his 
wife  and  children,  is  out,  seemingly  simply  bent  on  seeing  what 
he  can  see.  The  cleanliness  of  the  streets  to  Avhich  allusion 
was  made  is  secured  by  the  aid  of  a  small  army  of  boys  nrmed 
with  brushes  and  pans,  wdio  quickly  and  carefully  remove  any 
litter  as  soon  as  it  appears. 


« 
o 
w 

w 

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O 


c 


NATURAL  AND  SOCIAL  PECULIARITIES. 


AVINU  "got  our  land-legs"  again,  we  see  people 
walking  as  erect  on  this  side  of  the  \V(trld  as  on  what 
we  are  wont  to  regard  the  np})er  side.  They  are 
dressed  in  the  advanced  modes  ol'  modern  fashions. 
What  then  are  the  incongruities  which  we  have  already  admitted 
do  exist  ?  These  are  not  so  marked  or  essential  as  people  are 
apt  to  suppose.  I  well  remember  the  first  thing  that  struck  my 
eye  as  peculiar,  and  that  was  the  prevalence  of  two-wheeled 
vehicles  instead  of  the  quadra-cycles  that  are  usually  em- 
ployed for  conveyances  in  America. 

In  Australia  the  evening  reveals  that  we  are  in  a  strange 
land,  for  as  we  look  for  the  familiar  north  star,  we  realize  that 
it  disappeared  about  the  time  when  we  crossed  the  equator; 
the  "big  dii)per"  too  has  gone,  and  we  for  the  first  time 
realize  how  strongly  people  become  attached  in  their  minds  to 
the  stars  al)ove  them  ;  for  it  actually  seemed  as  though  we 
had  lost  some  very  dear  objects.  In  their  places  our  friends 
of  the  Southern  world  pointed  out  to  us  the  beautiful  Southern 
Cross  which,  like  the  dipper,  revolves  or  rather  swings  around 
a  center,  which  in  this  case  however  is  not  marked  by  the 
north  star  or  any  other.  The  Southern  Cross  consists  of  five 
stars  so  set  as  to  suggest  very  naturally  the  name  that  has 
been  given  them,  though  one  member  of  the  constellation  is 
rather  redundant,  and  quite  out  of  line.  Besides  the  "  cross  " 
we  see  small  fleecy  bodies  of  light  which  are  called  tlie  Magel- 
lan Clouds.     Altogether,  the  heavens  present  an  unusual  ap- 

[s:;] 


84  NATURAL   AND   SOCIAL    PECULIAUITIE^. 

pearanee  to  the  Northerner.  Nor  is  the  strangeness  dispelled 
by  the  return  of  daylight,  for  notwithstanding  the  sun  rising  in 
the  east,  where  it  should  rise,  the  visitor  beholds  that  luminary 
moving  toward  the  north,  with  a  swing  around  to  the  left, 
instead  of  toward  the  right.  At  noon  his  shadow  is  projected 
southward,  and  he  finds  the  south  side  of  buildings  and  trees 
the  shady  side.  Not  only  is  the  diarnal  period  thus  demor- 
alized for  him,  but  the  seasons  also  are  as  badly  mixed  up.  If 
he  lands  in  the  latter  part  of  December,  instead  of  taking  a 
sleighride  in  fur  robes  on  Christmas-day,  his  friends  take  him 
to  an  outdoor  picnic,  a  steamer  excursion,  or  what  is  more  de- 
lightful still,  to  camp  in  some  cool  mountain  retreat  among  the 
fern  trees.  Looking  for  the  Fourth  of  July,  he  finds  it  in  the 
depth  of  winter,  which  is  not  very  terrific,  to  be  sure,  though 
the  day  has  lost  much  of  its  character  by  the  transfer  from 
Uncle  Sam's  dominions  to  those  of  the  Queen ;  and  from  the 
midst  of  the  heat  of  summer  to  the  midst  of  winter. 

Other  points  of  diversity  will  be  noticed  at  first,  but  they 
are  of  such  inconsequential  significance  that  they  soon  pass 
out  of  the  mind,  and  cease  to  be  noticed.  They  consist  mostly 
of  idioms  of  speech  and  modes  of  work,  that  are  strange  to 
those  only  who  are  unacquainted  with  the  customs  of  England, 
whence  they  have  mostly  been  brought. 

We  shall  suppose  that  the  visitor  is  an  uninitiated  Ameri- 
can who  wishes  to  l>egin  housekeeping,  and  sets  out  to  find 
the  necessaries.  He  asks  for  a  dry-goods  store,  but  finds  none, 
there  being  a  draper's  shop  instead.  Wanting  a  bolt  of  sheet- 
ing, he  must  inquire  for  calico  in  order  to  get  it.  If  he  wants 
calico,  he  must  ask  for  prints.  He  thinks  he  needs  a  pair  of 
rubbers,  but  he  w^ill  not  find  any  one  who  understands  his 
wants  unless  he  asks  for  galoshes,  and  even  then  he  may  not 
get  them,  for  they  are  not  much  worn.  If  his  wife  wants  a 
spool  of  thread,  he  must  ask  for  a  reel  of  cotton.     When  he 


ID  1 031  MITES.  85 

goes  to  the  grocery  and  asks  for  crackers,  he  is  laughed  at, 
and  tohl  that  he  is  from  America  ;  that  if  he  really  wants 
crackers,  he  will  find  them  in  a  toy  shop,  but  if  he  wants  bis- 
cuits, they  have  them.  If  he  asks  for  saleratus,  they  will 
declare  they  never  saw  any,  and  want  to  know  what  "  they  " 
are  like ;  he  wants  soda.  Looking  for  a  hardware  store,  he  at 
last  learns  that  he  really  w^ants  an  iron-monger's  shop.  He 
finds  but  few  stoves,  for  not  one  family  in  a  hundred  uses 
them,  the  open  fireplace  being  used  for  cooking  and  for  what 
warming  is  required.  Luckily  he  has  brought  one  with  him, 
but  he  finds  the  task  of  getting  it  fitted  with  pipe  and  elbows 
to  be  no  small  consideration  in  a  country  where  tinsmiths  do 
not  have  any  practice  in  that  line  of  work.  He  concludes  to 
purchase  a  tin  pail  and  cup,  and  pays  for  a  billy-can  and  a 
pannikin.  Being  thirsty,  he  thinks  a  glass  of  lemonade  will  be 
acceptable,  so  stopping  at  a  place  where  beverages  are  sold,  he 
asks  for  what  he  wants,  but  receives  a  bottle  of  serated  water 
instead.  On  making  himself  understood  by  explanation,  he 
learns  that  wdiat  he  requires  is  lemon-squash.  Willing  to  take 
his  change  in  candy  for  the  children,  he  again  betrays  his 
iii'norance,  for  he  should  ask  for  lollies. 

But,  as  before  remarked,  these  peculiarities  are  not  essen- 
tials, and  are  soon  forgotten  in  the  many  pleasant  circum- 
stances that  develop  in  the  colonial  life.  With  but  few 
excej)tions,  the  people  in  these  colonies  migrated  from  the 
United  Kinudom  or  are  the  children  of  those  w^ho  have  come 
from  there.  And  like  others  who  have  voluntarily  undertaken 
to  meet  the  emergencies  of  life  in  a  new  world,  they  have 
quite  generally  developed  the  strong  qualities  of  manhood  and 
w^omanhood.  We  rapid  Americans  are  wont  to  look  with  a 
little  feeling  of  disdain  upon  the  slow-going  conservatism  of 
the  old  world.  But  Australians  have,  to  a  great  extent,  broken 
away  from  this,  and  yet  retain  their  native  stability  of  charac- 


:cS^^-         ■■*,   ,..::^t^^?^:. 


'/^ 


[SG] 


MlRKAY    RiVEK. 


THE  AUSTRALIAX  LABORER.  87 

ter.  Ill  the  free  air  of  a  new  country  they  readily  take  on 
the  independence  of  thou<iht  and  action  that  characterizes  new 
settlements.  Thus  we  at  once  recognize  the  fact  that  Aus- 
tralia is  the  most  American  country  outside  of  America. 
Australians  form  a  very  acceptable  medium  between  the  con- 
servative Englishman  or  Scotchman,  and  the  ardent,  pushing 
American. 

Like  other  dwellers  in  warm  climates,  they  have  no  strong 
affinity  for  really  hard  work,  })articularly  not  beyond  the  limit 
of  eight  hours  a  day.  But  they  can  endure  a  very  large 
amount  of  pleasure  without  grumbling  at  all.  The  eight-hour 
system  of  labor  is  firmly  established  by  custom  and  law  ;  and 
the  only  thing  that  will  ever  shake  it  upon  its  foundation  will 
be  a  movement  for  six  hours  a  day.  Forty-eight  hours 
constitutes  a  weeks'  work.  This  amount  is  generally  performed 
in  five  and  a  half  days,  so  that  the  last  half-day  of  each  week 
may  be  given  to  recreation.  Besides  the  weekly  half-holiday, 
annual  holidays  come  in  very  plentifully,  and  it  does  not 
take  much  of  a  pretext  to  create  a  new  one. 

The  national  games  are  foot-ball  in  winter  and  cricket  in 
summer;  and  the  association  matches  attract  great  crowds  of 
spectators.  Horse-racing,  another  great  attraction,  is  attended 
by  all  the  degrading  complements  usually  associated  with  the 
vocation.  Military  drill  also  receives  much  attention,  as  well 
as  athletics  of  various  sorts.  Intemperance  has  a  stronghold 
in  the  colonies,  some  of  them  occupying  the  unenviable  posi- 
tion of  being  the  leadins:  countries  in  the  world  in  the  con- 
sumption  of  intoxicating  li(|uors.  One  sad  fact  that  the 
stranger  witnesses  with  pain  is  the  prevalence  of  the  drinking 
habit  amono-  women.  Attractive  younii'  women  are  almost 
universally  employed  as  bar-maids  ;  for  while  they  draw  cus- 
tomers of  the  opposite  sex,  they  at  the  same  time  make  it 
much  easier  for  those  of  their  own  sex  to  gratify  their  ap- 


88  NATURAL  AND   SOCIAL   PECULIARITIES. 

petites,  as  doubtless  many  women  who  purchase  liquor  of 
women  would  not  feel  free  to  buy  from  men.  Then,  too,  it  is 
quite  common  for  grocers  to  supply  the  families  of  their  cus- 
tomers with  liquors  and  wines,  thus  fostering  the  demand  in 
the  family  circle,  where,  most  of  all,  purity  should  have  a 
place.  The  smoking  of  tobacco  is  an  all-prevailing  habit. 
The  more  filthy  custom  of  chewing  is,  however,  not  nearly  so 
prevalent  here  as  elsewhere.  Tea-drinking  and  meat-eating 
are  prominent  features  of  the  ordinary  diet,  and  both  these 
habits  bear  baneful  fruits  that  are  apparent  in  the  state  of  the 
general  health.  But  there  is  no  other  country  on  earth  where 
there  is  less  reason  for  indulging  in  hurtful  practices  in  the 
matter  of  diet,  since  nature  has  bountifully  provided  for  the 
supply  of  every  legitimate  want  in  the  large  variety  of  whole- 
some fruits,  grains,  and  vegetables  of  the  finest  quality,  which 
all  the  year  are  delivered  fresh  at  the  doors  of  those  who 
will  buy. 

But  having  said  all  that  we  know  of  the  wrong  side  of 
Australians,  very  much  more  remains  to  be  said  on  the  other 
side.  For  hospitality  and  general  kindness,  for  stability  of 
character  and  love  of  improvement,  they  are  justly  celebrated 
in  the  minds  of  all  who  know  them.  Their  public  charities 
and  sympathies  for  the  suffering  are  not  excelled  in  any  part 
of  the  world.  Their  splendid  hospital  establishments  and 
systems  leave  no  one  without  the  means  of  proper  care  and 
attention  in  sickness.  Indeed,  in  no  other  country  is  money 
expended  more  willingly  for  unselfish  purposes  than  here. 

The  people  generall}'^  have  respect  for  the  Bible,  though 
religion  is  with  many  but  a  very  formal  matter,  and  with 
others  a  mere  sham.  Its  principles  are  nevertheless  recognized 
by  the  great  mass  of  the  people,  who  entertain  a  regard  for 
the  Bible  as  the  Word  of  God,  even  though  they  do  not 
heed  it. 


DISCOVERY.  80 

Australia  is  a  great  deal  larger  in  reality  than  it  seems  on 
the  maps  many  of  us  have  studied.  In  size  and  contour  it 
does  not  differ  very  much  from  what  Americans  are  wont  to 
believe  is  the  greatest  country  on  earth.  The  United  States 
contains,  exclusive  of  Alaska,  2,970,000  square  miles ;  Aus- 
tralia contains  just  about  the  same,  or  three  million  in  round 
numbers.  The  country  lies  between  latitudes  ten  degrees 
forty-seven  minutes  and  thirty-nine  degrees  eleven  minutes 
south.  From  north  to  south  it  measures  1950  miles,  and  from 
east  to  west  2500.  The  Pacific  Ocean  washes  its  eastern 
shores,  the  Southern  Ocean  its  southeastern  and  southern 
shores,  and  the  Indian  Ocean  borders  on  the  west  and  north. 
The  meaning  of  the  word  "  austral "  is  "pertaining  to  the 
south."  It  was  an  idea  entertained  by  the  ancients  that  there 
was  a  Terra  Australis  wdiich  would  one  dny  be  revealed.  The 
geographer  Ptolemy  in  the  second  century  conceived  the 
Indian  Ocean  to  be  an  inland  sea,  bounded  on  the  south  bv  an 
unknown  land.  In  the  year  1606,  Torres,  commander  of  a 
Spanish  vessel,  sailed  through  the  straits  which  bear  his  name, 
and  separate  the  Australian  continent  from  New  Guinea  on 
the  north.  Subsequently  the  Dutch  sailed  along  the  shores 
of  Australia,  and  in  the  middle  of  that  century  the  celebrated 
discoverer  Tasman  visited  these  regions.  The  English  made 
their  first  appearance  on  the  Australian  coast  in  1688.  A 
century  later  the  great  voyager.  Captain  Cook,  opened  the 
country  to  European  settlement.  Exploration  proceeded 
slowly,  and  but  little  was  known,  until  late  years,  of  the 
interior  of  the  country.  The  scarcity  of  water,  combined  with 
the  prevalence  of  scorching  winds,  makes  the  investigation  of 
the  inland  regions  an  exceedingly  difficult  and  dangerous  task. 

The  country  has  been  divided  into  five  colonies.  Queens- 
land, located  on  the  northeast,  contains  668,000  square  miles  ; 
to  the  south    lies    New    South  Wales,  with    310,000    square 


90 


NATURAL   AX  I)   SOCIAL   PECULIARITIES. 


miles;  still  f\irther  southwest  lies  Victoria,  the  smallest  and 
most  populous  of  the  colonies,  with  about  88,000  square  miles. 
West  of  the  two  first-named  lies  South  Australia,  in  a  wide 
band  that  extends  across  the  whole  country  from  north  lo 
south,  and  has  903.000  square  miles ;  while  still  farther  to 
the  west  lies  West  Australia,  having  an  area  of  over  a  million 
square  miles.  A  few  hundred  miles  inland  from  the  coast  the 
country   is   uninhahitod.  and  apparently  uninhabitable,  though 


KiN(i  Ueukgk'.s  Sound,   "West  Al -i  liAi^iA. 

this  interior  boundary  is  undefined,  and  is  continually  carried 
nearer  to  the  center  of  the  continent.  The  legislature  of 
South  Australia  having  offered  a  reward  of  ten  thousand 
pounds  sterling  to  the  first  man  who  should  traverse  the  con- 
tinent from  north  to  south,  the  task  was  undertaken  in  1860 
by  a  Mr.  Stuart,  who  accomplished  his  purpose  in  1862,  on 
the  third  attempt.  Others  attempting  it  failed.  It  was  in 
this  attempt  that  Burke  and  Wills,  the  noted  explorers,  lost 
their  lives.  Since  that  time,  however,  a  line  of  telegraph  has 
been  established  upon  the  path  opened  by  the  determined 
Stuart. 


RIVERS.  91 

Beyond  the  influence  of  the  coast  atmosphere,  the  rain-fall 
is  \ery  light  and  uncertain,  and  becomes  more  so  the  ffirther 
one  recedes.  Much  of  the  interior  is  thought  to  be  practicable 
for  colonization,  because  it  is  reported  to  have  a  fertile  soil,  and 
requires  only  a  reliable  and  frequent  supply  of  moisture  to 
render  it  productive  and  pleasant.  The  river  system  of  Aus- 
tralia is  A^ery  inconsiderable.  There  are  a  few  inconsequential 
streams  that  may  be  said  to  pertain  to  the  interior  regions, 
but  the  most  of  these  are  periodical,  and  their  water  disappears 
through  absorption  and  evaporation.  Still,  quite  a  number  of 
streams  flow  through  the  coast  region  into  the  sea.  The  prin- 
cipal one  is  the  Murray,  which  rises  within  a  hundred  miles  of 
the  coast  in  Victoria  and  New  South  Wales,  forming,  for  most 
of  its  course,  the  boundary  between  these  colonies,  and  empty- 
ing into  the  Southern  Ocean,  after  having  flowed  a  distance  of 
over  two  thousand  miles,  and  receding  at  no  point  farther  than 
two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  the  sea.  Although  this 
river  is  not  navigable  by  vessels  from  the  ocean,  it  has  an 
inland  system  of  navigation  for  nearly  its  whole  length.  This 
river  receives  three  or  four  tributaries  of  considerable  size. 

The  general  topography  of  Australia  is  very  tame  and 
monotonous  to  the  traveler.  It  has  no  remarkable  mountains. 
The  principal  ones  are  in  the  Southeast,  and  do  not  reach  the 
altitude  of  perpetual  snow,  nor  do  they  contain  any  volcanoes. 
In  the  winter  season  snow  falls  upon  their  summits,  but  disap- 
pears at  the  approach  of  spring.  For  the  most  part  the  coun- 
try is  a  level  plain,  generally  covered  with  a  light  growth  of 
stunted  eucalyptus  trees.  Of  course  there  are  notable  excep- 
tions to  this  in  the  case  of  extensive  prairies  and  dense  forests. 
The  vast  interior  is  said  to  be  a  basin  whose  surface  is  below 
that  of  the  ocean,  but  broken  in  difterent  places  by  ranges  of 
hills  and  isolated  peaks.  The  climate  of  Australia  furnishes  a 
variety  of  temperature  from  the  torrid  northern  and  central 


92  NATURAL   AND   SOCIAL   PECULIARITIES. 

regions  to  tlio  mildly  temperate  climate,  of  Melbourne  in  the 
South.  The  average  annual  temperature  of  the  latter  place  is 
about  sixty  degrees,  with  a  variation  between  summer -and 
winter  of  less  than  fifteen  degrees  each  way  from  the  annual 
mean.  Snow  never  falls  in  Australia  except  upon  the  elevated 
parts  in  th^  Southeast,  though  in  Melbourne  a  few  slight  frosts 
occur  in  the  course  of  the  winter. 

There  are  in  Australia  but  little  over  three  million  people. 
In  1891  the  census  showed  3,180,000,  or  about  one  to  the 
square  mile.  Of  this  number  New  South  Wales  contained 
1,134,207  and  Victoria  about  six  thousand  more  ;  while  West- 
ern Australia,  with  a  territory  that  exceeds  the  area  of  New 
England  and  the  Middle  States,  with  Ohio,  Indiana,  Illinois, 
Michigan,  Wisconsin,  Minnesota,  Iowa,  Missouri,  the  Dakotas, 
Nebraska,  and  Kansas  all  taken  together,  has  a  population  of 
about  fifty  thousand,  or  a  little  more  than  one  person  to  twenty 
square  miles.  If  any  one  is  longing  for  elbow  room,  let  him 
think  ftivorably  of  going  to  Western  Australia. 


SYDNEY  IN  PARTICULAR, 


AVING  generalized  thus  far,  let  us  now  look  more 
closely  at  the  cities  and  scenes  in  this  world.  We 
shall  begin  our  sight-seeing  in  Sydney,  on  George 
street,  the  principal  thoroughfare  for  business  and 
show.  There  are  some  imposing  edifices  along  its  course. 
First  we  notice  the  general  post-office  buikling,  with  its  lofty 
clock  tower.  It  is  a  very  substantial  and  beautiful  struc- 
ture of  stone,  surrounded  by  a  colonnade  of  polished  granite 
pillars.  In  this  colonnade  are  located  the  stamp  and  deliv- 
ery windows,  and  all  business  is  transacted  from  outside  the 
building,  as  is  the  case  with  all  post-offices  in  this  countr3^ 
Farther  along  we  pass  the  general  market,  which  we  enter  on 
a  tour  of  investigation.  What  we  shall  see  depends  of  course 
upon  the  season  of  the  year  in  which  we  make  our  visit. 
But  at  Avhatever  time  of  the  year  we  happen  to  be  there,  we 
shall  find  an  interesting  array  of  fVuits,  flowers,  vegetables, 
farm  produce,  and  poultry,  besides  birds  and  pet  animals. 
Victoria,  Tasmania,  Queensland,  and  the  islands  have  con- 
tributed to  the  supply ;  but  of  all  these  articles  the  immediate 
vicinity  furnishes  a  varied  and  choice  selection.  These 
markets  are  controlled  by  the  city,  and  are  very  popular  with 
the  people. 

Still  farther  along,  upon  a  commanding  height  of  ground, 
stand,  side  by  side,  the  Anglican  cathedral  and  the  town-hall. 
The  latter  building  is  an  attractive  one,  both  inside  and  out, 
though    its    architecture   is   perhaps  a  little  too  ornate.     Its 

[<)3] 


x 


JSA  TURD.  1 Y  NIGHT.  9 5 

principal  feature  is  the  grand  organ  it  contains,  wliich  is 
claimed  to  bo  the  largest  in  the  world.  Passing  still  fiirther 
on,  we  descend  a  gentle  slope  to  the  Hay  Market,  or,  as  it  is 
commonly  called,  Paddy's  Market.  Here,  on  Saturday 
evenings,  is  to  Ije  seen  one  of  the  most  unique  sights  in  the 
Southern  world.  George  street  is  then  a  solid  mass  of  mov- 
ing, jostling  people,  and  the  crowds  surge  into  the  market, 
some  on  business,  but  the  most  on  pleasure  bent.  The  long- 
rows  of  stalls  are  filled  with  wares,  whose  wide-awake  venders 
vie  with  each  other  in  trying  to  make  the  greatest  noise,  as  if 
their  success  in  business,  if  not  their  lives,  depended  u})on  the 
strength  of  their  lungs.  Here  and  there  are  catch-penny  games 
and  side-shows,  bands  of  music,  merry-go-rounds,  swings,  and 
an  endless  variety  of  devices  for  amusement  and  money- 
getting.  Here  also  are  numerous  stump-speakers,  political, 
communistic,  infidel,  and  religious.  These  too  work  on  the 
general  plan  of  measuring  success  by  the  amount  of  noise 
they  can  make.  And,  interspersed  through  the  whole,  is  a 
rollicking,  care-for-nothing  crowd,  pushing,  laughing,  and  gaz- 
ing about ;  the  whole  making  a  noise  wdiich  is  a  forcible 
reminder  of  pandemonium  itself. 

But  in  tlie  more  natural  features  of  Sydney  and  its  sur- 
roundings, we  find  its  principal  attractions.  The  glory  of  the 
city  is  its  harbor,  which  the  Sydneyites  are  not  backward  in 
calling  the  finest  in  the  world.  It  terminates  in  the  Paramatta 
River.  The  old  town  of  that  name  lies  fifteen  miles  up  the 
stream,  but  pleasure-steamers  can  only  ajtproach  to  within 
a1)0ut  three  miles  of  it.  This  trip  is  one  of  the  most  delight- 
ful in  the  colonies.  The  shores  of  the  harbor  are  very  irreg- 
ular, and  generally  bold  and  rocky.  They  afiord  many 
magnificent  building  sites,  which  are  occupied  by  fine  buildings, 
public  and  private.  As  we  near  Paramatta,  the  country  be- 
comes flatter,  and  extensive  fruit  farms  are  seen.     It  would 


96  SYDiVEY  jy  PARTICULAR. 

be  diiliciilt  to  find  ,i  more  lovely  landscape  than  presents  itself 
in  this  region  of  fruit  and  flowers.  The  orange  and  lemon 
groves  are  particularly  luxuriant  and  prolific. 

If  one  does  not  care  to  go  outside  the  city,  he  may  still  see 
nature  in  its  loveliest  forms,  adorned  and  assisted  by  art.  The 
Botanical  Gardens  equal  in  beauty  any  others  in  the  world. 
Their  situation  upon  the  grassy  slopes  of  the  harbor,  which  is 
here  indented  by  a  bold  cape,  and  there  invades  the  gardens 
with  a  deep  bay,  adds  very  much  to  the  landscape.  Then  the 
sculptor's  art  has  been  liberally  employed  to  embellish  the  walks 
and  nooks  of  the  place  with  statuary.  Under  the  influence  of 
the  genial  climate  and  skillful  care,  trees,  flowers,  and  plants 
of  every  clime  thrive  with  vigor.  The  nicely  kept  walks  and 
living  green  of  the  lawn,  with  bright  and  many-hued  flowers 
and  birds  of  still  brighter  plumage,  combine  to  form  a  scene 
never  to  be  forgotten.  One  thing  that  adds  to  the  comfort 
and  attractiveness  of  the  place  is  the  absence  of  w^arnings  to 
keef>  off  the  grass.  The  parks  in  Australia  are  made  and 
kept  for  the  public,  wdio  have  full  liberty  to  use  them  within 
the  bounds  of  propriety.  Public  notices  calling  upon  people 
to  assist  in  caring  for  their  own  property  supply  the  place  of 
all  those  impertinent  notice-boards  which  stare  the  visitor  in 
the  face  in  so  many  of  our  parks,  telling  him  that  "  this  means 
you,"  though  he  may  be  walking  in  the  middle  of  the  road, 
with  his  hands  behind  him.  Bevies  of  children  roll  and  romp 
on  the  grass,  helping  to  fill  up  an  already  beautiful  picture 
with  the  idea  of  comfort  and  healthful  exercise. 

Adjoining  the  garden  is  a  large  open  park,  or  common, 
called  the  Domain.  Here  assemble,  on  Sunday  afternoon  and 
evening,  multitudes  of  people.  They  w^alk  about  or  listen  to 
various  speakers  wdio,  stationed  at  short  intervals  over  the 
green,  are  discoursing  upon  their  favorite  themes.  Here  the 
gospel  is  preached  ;  there  a  temperance  lecture  is  given ;  yon- 


SYDNEY  SIGHTS.  97 

der  a  politician  harangues,  or  a  socialist  rants  against  govern- 
ment and  restraint.  Upon  one  edge  of  the  Domain  stands  the 
city  Art  Gallery.  The  building,  being  yet  unfinished,  presents 
a  rough  exterior,  but  upon  entering,  the  visitor  is  surprised  to 
find  himself  in  a  gallery  of  large  extent  and  superior  merit. 
This  gallery  is  open  to  the  public  upon  the  payment  of  an 
entrance  fee  of  sixpence,  and  double  that  >sum  upon  ^Ion- 
days,  by  which  arrangement  the  wealthy  people  have  more 
exclusive  privileges  upon  that  day. 

A  trip  around  the  lower  harbor  in  one  of  the  many  pleas- 
ure-boats that  run  for  that  purpose  is  a  delightfnl  way  to 
spend  half  a  day.  The  beautiful  tillage  of  Manly  is  situated 
near  the  entrance  of  the  harbor  on  a  narrow  neck  of  land 
which  divides  the  bay  from  the  ocean,  and  it  enjoys  the  dis- 
tinction of  having  two  fine  beaches  —  one  in  smooth,  protected 
waters,  and  the  other  open  to  the  broad  Pacific,  where  the 
magnificent  breakers  roll  in  continuallv.  A  visit  to  the  South 
Heads,  where  we  are  permitted  to  inspect  the  defensive  forti- 
fications and  the  celebrated  light-house,  forms  a  memorable 
part  of  the  trip.  Against  the  foot  of  the  clifls,  which  are 
nearly  two  hundred  feet  in  perpendicular  height,  the  waves 
are  continually  dashing  themselves  to  spray.  It  w^as  here 
that,  in  1857,  the  steamer  "  Dunbar,"  mistaking  the  opening 
into  the  harbor,  was  utterly  wrecked,  and  went  to  the  bottom 
with  her  two  hundred  passengers  and  crew,  of  whom  but  one 
w^as  spared  to  tell  the  tale. 

The  trip  around  the  harbor  reveals  many  nooks  of  quiet 
beauty,  some  of  which  lie  nestled  close  by  armaments  of  war. 
The  view  of  the  Botanical  Gardens  from  the  water  is  enchant- 
ing, and  that  of  the  neighboring  suburb  is  almost  equally  so, 
until  we  are  told  that  its  name  is  Woolloomooloo.  Shark's 
Point  and  Shark's  Island  are  names  that  cause  a  shudder, 
in    spite  of  their  beauty. 

7 


OS  SYDNEY  JX  PARTICULAR. 

Having  ttikeii  this  trip,  we  next  want  to  visit  Sydney's 
Zoological  Park,  which,  however,  is  not  equal  to  some  others ; 
we  also  take  ii  tram  to  Coogee  Bay,  and  perhaps  to  some  other 
neighboring  seaside  resorts,  and  then  our  sight-seeing  in  Syd- 
ney is  nearly  done.  But  we  must  not  take  our  leave  without 
noticing  the  tram  system,  which  is  different  from  that  of  any 
other  city.  The  principal  system  consists  of  cars  propelled  by 
steam.  Nearly  all  the  cars  are  two  stories  high.  The 
upper  deck  has  a  roof,  and  the  appearance  of  these  tall,  spec- 
tral-looking conveyances  strikes  the  stranger  as  something 
very  unique.  It  will  be  well  to  state  that  "tram  "  is  the  \t'0rd 
which  in  British  countries  takes  the  place  of  ''street-car"  in 
America.  These  cars  in  Sydney  converge  into  Pitt  street, 
which  runs  parallel  with  George  street,  thus  rendering  them 
convenient  of  access,  and  making  each  portion  of  the  city 
easily  accessible  to  any  other  portion.  The  fares  are  graded; 
that  is,  there  are  short  sections  for  which  a  penny  or  two- 
pence is  charged,  and  fares  are  collected  according  to  the  dis- 
tance to  be  covered.  The  collectors  cannot  always  observe 
people  who  get  on  the  train,  therefore  they  frequently  pass 
along  the  foot-boards  calling  out,  "Any  more  fares?"  leaving 
it  for  those  who  have  boarded  the  train  unobserved  to  pay 
voluntarily.  A  friend  of  the  writer's  who  had  just  come  into 
town,  and  was  taking  quite  a  long  ride,  did  not  understand 
this  ;  and  after  paj'ing  the  fxre  for  the  whole  distance,  inter- 
preted each  succeeding  call  as  an  invitation  for  more  money, 
and  accordingly  paid  as  many  fares  for  the  whole  trip  as  there 
were  calls.  At  the  end  of  the  journey  the  stranger  was  nat- 
urally disgusted  at  the  character  of  Sydney  street-cars  and 
tlie  cost  of  urban  travel.  But  this  disgust  was  transferred  to 
the  proper  party  when  the  truth   was  made  known. 


THE  SOUTHERN  METROPOLIS. 


=ELBOURNE,  the  rival  city  of  Sydney,  is  situated 
near  the  southern  extremity  of  the  continent,  in  the 
colony  of  Victoria.  A  distance  of  five  hundred  and 
twelve  miles  by  rail  separates  them,  and  tlio  journey 
by  sea  is  somewhat  longer.  Those  who  are  not  in  too 
great  haste,  and  have  no  particular  horror  of  the  sea,  generally 
choose  one  of  the  comfortable  steamers  which  ply  daily  be- 
tween the  two  cities.  The  railway  journey  for  the  greater 
part  of  the  distance  is  covered  in  the  night,  and  the  scenery 
passed  by  daylight  is  of  a  rather  monotonous  character,  al- 
though some  fine  farming  country  is  passed,  and  some  attrac- 
tive landscape  views  are  afforded  ;  that  presented  on  page  SG 
being  one  of  them. 

Those  who  take  the  journey  by  sea  ■are  liable  to  experience 
the  roughest  phase  of  nautical  life,  for  there  are  but  few  por- 
tions of  the  earth  that  are  beaten  by  wilder  weaves  than  the 
southern  and  southeastern  shores  of  Australia.  Frequent 
wrecks  occur  on  those  rocky  shores.  But  contrary  to  all  our 
apprehensions,  the  voyage  proved  to  be  one  of  the  most  pleas- 
ant we  had  ever  taken.  We  sailed  out  of  the  harbor  of 
Sydney  about  noon,  on  the  staunch  but  slow  steamer  "  Elinga- 
mite,"  and  in  fifty  hours  were  sailing  over  the  placid  waters  of 
Port  Philip,  into  the  harbor  of  Melbourne.  Scarcely  a  ripple 
had  disturbed  the  surface  of  the  ocean  from  first  to  last. 

Melbourne  is  a  younger  city  than  its  New  South  Wales 
competitor.    It  received  its  name  in  the  year  1837,  and  is  there- 

[09] 


'A 

o 


■A 
!2; 


o 
o 


SKETCH   OF  MELBOURNE.  IQl 

fore  almost  the  twin  of  Chicago.  In  that  year  it  contained 
about  eight  thousand  inhabitants.  It  was  named  after  Lord 
Melbourne,  who  was  at  that  time  British  premier.  According 
to  tlie  census  of  1891,  Melbourne  and  its  suburbs  contain 
491,387  inhabitants.  These  suburbs,  although  separate  munici- 
cipalities,  are  for  all  other  purposes  united  with  the  main  city. 
Melbourne  and  Sydney,  standing  upon  a  nearly  equal  footing, 
vie  with  each  other  for  commercial  supremacy.  The  latter 
port  is  the  termination  of  a  number  of  deep-sea  steamship 
lines,  and  being  nearer  to  the  islands,  naturally  takes  more 
than  its  share  of  the  business  with  Oceania.  But  in  the  busi- 
ness of  local  and  coast  lines,  Melbourne  takes  the  lead.  The 
two  colonies  stand  about  equal  as  to  imports,  the  amount  in 
1890  beino'  over  one  hundred  million  dollars  in  each.  In 
exports,  New  South  Wales  took  the  lead  of  Victoria  by  about 
thirty  million  dollars  in  the  same  year. 

Melbourne  differs  from  Sydney  in  many  respects  —  in  its 
general  plan,  its  topography,  and  its  spirit.  We  have  already 
said  that  Australia  is  the  most  American  country  outside  of 
America,  and  with  the  same  degree  of  truth  it  may  be  said 
that  Melbourne  is  the  most  American  city  of  Australia.  It 
has  more  ''push"  and  progress  in  its  policy..  Melbourne  is 
situated  at  the  head  of  Port  Philip,  called  Hobson's  Bay,  about 
fifty  miles  from  the  ocean.  Port  Philip  is  an  irregular  oval  in 
shape,  and  about  forty  miles  in  diameter.  It  has  but  a  narrow 
entrance  called  the  Heads,  out  of  and  into  which  the  tide 
rushes  with  a  strong  current,  forming  what  is  called  the 
"rips."  These  are  the  dread  of  passengers  liable  to  seasick- 
ness, for  here  they  are  pretty  sure  to  get  a  shaking  up.  On 
the  cliffs  stands  the  village  of  Queenscliflf,  a  fivorite  seaside 
resort.  Here  are  fortifications  and  a  fine  liglithouse,  as  at  the 
Sydney  harbor.  Numerous  wrecks  have  occurred  at  and  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  entrance  to  Port  Philip.     Treacherous  cur- 


102  THE  SOUTHERX  METROPOLIS. 

rents  abound  on  this  rock-bound  shore.  There  are  several 
light-houses  ;ih)n<;  the  coast,  placed  at  short  intervals;  3'et  it 
sometimes  happens  that  captains  unacquainted  with  those 
waters  mistake  the  lights,  and  are  dashed  upon  rocks  while 
supposing  that  they  are  entering  the  harbor. 

It  is  a  sad  sight  to  look  upon  the  broken  remains  of  half  a 
dozen  vessels  which  have  thus  met  their  fate  within  a  few  years. 
Perhaps  a  ship  comes  from  New  York  with  a  valuable  cargo. 
For  three  or  four  months  it  has  battled  successfully  against 
wind  and  storm.  By  faithfulness  and  vigilance  the  voyage 
has  been  carried  toward  a  happy  conclusion.  At  last  the  ex- 
pected haven  is  in  sight.  The  sailors  are  glad  in  view  of  rest 
on  shore,  and  the  officers  feel  a  sense  of  relief  that  their  care 
will  now  for  a  time  be  lightened,  and' they  are  anticipating  the 
pleasure  of  reporting  to  the  owners  a  prosperous  and  profitable 
trip.  But  there  come  a  few  moments  of  carelessness.  No 
pilot  is  at  hand,  and  a  mistake  is  made  in  calculation,  or  per- 
haps drink  beclouds  the  mind,  or  an  unexpected  wind  carries 
the  craft  into  a  fatal  current ;  and  in  a  few  minutes  all  is  lost. 
The  seamen  are  struggling  for  life  in  the  breakers,  and  the 
gallant  ship  is  groaning  and  crashing  upon  the  rocks.  Many 
such    stories    are    told,  for   it  has    happened  over    and    over 


again. 


The  thought  cannot  be  repressed  that  this  case  illustrates 
the  fate  of  many  lives.  There  are  those  who  successfully 
meet  the  difficulties  of  a  long  life.  For  years  they  contend 
>  with  obstacles,  and  fortune  seems  to  smile  upon  them.  But 
at  last  some  untoward  circumstance  turns  what  appears  to  be 
certain  victory  into  terrible  and  everlasting  defeat.  Some 
fatal  mistake  is  made,  some  peculiar  and  unexpected  tempta- 
tion arises  ;  and  in  a  moment  all  is  lost.  The  trouble  in  such 
cases  almost  always  comes  from  some  flaw  in  the  character,  or 
from  some  cherished  sin,  which  has  been  carried  along  through 


WRECKED  AT   THE  LAST.  103 

life,  but  has  up  to  that  time  never  produced  any  apparently 
serious  consequences. 

The  fact  is,  sin  is  a  dangerous  thing  to  trifle  with.  In  the 
end  it  produces  death.  We  may  tamper  with  it  for  a  while, 
but  it  will  bear  its  baneful  fruit  at  last.  The  saddest  of  all 
sad  sifjhts  in  this  sad  w^orld  is  a  wreck  at  the  end  of  a  lono; 
voyage.  To  come  wdthin  reach  of  the  goal,  and  then  be  lost, 
is  the  saddest  of  losses.  To  have  hope  raised  by  degrees  to 
the  very  point  of  realization,  and  then  dashed  to  disappoint- 
ment, is  more  terrible  than  never  to  have  hoped.  In  the  voy- 
age of  life  there  are  dangers  and  trials,  but  we  often  say  that 
"all  is  well  that  ends  well."  It  is  the  end  of  life  that  solves 
the  problem  of  success  or  failure.  But  how  can  we  anticipate 
a  happy  ending  unless  we  pursue  the  straight  course  toward 
the  desired  haven?  and  how  shall  we  reach  that  haven  except 
we  continue  in  the  right  path  ?  Let  the  youth  consider  these 
things,  for  the  critical  moment  is  approaching  when  the  issues 
of  life  will  be  tested.  There  is  but  one  way  of  safety,  and 
that  is  to  follow  the  leadership  of  the  great  captain,  Jesus 
Christ.  Cherish  no  fjital  sin  ;  permit  no  careless  hours  ;  keep 
the  mind  and  the  heart  clear,  and  the  conscience  clean.  Ask 
God  for  help,  trust  implicitly  your  Pilot  and  Captain,  then  the 
end  will  be  well. 

The  city  of  Melbourne  was  originally  located  upon  the 
banks  of  the  Yarra  River,  six  or  scA'en  miles  from  the  bay  by 
water,  but  less  than  half  that  distance  in  a  straight  course. 
The  land  lies  quite  level,  with  only  sufficient  inclination  for 
drainage,  and  hardly  that.  But  this  circumstance  was  favor- 
able for  the  laying  out  of  wide,  >straight,  and  regular  streets. 
The  opportunity  was  so  w^ell  improved  by  those  who  did  the 
w^ork  that,  for  beauty  of  plan,  Melbourne  has  but  few  equals 
in  the  world.  Ample  provision  was  made  for  parks  and  gar- 
dens, some  of  which   lie   very   near   the  heart   of  the    city. 


[104] 


CoLLI^'s  Street,  Melbourne. 


MELBOFRNE.  105 

Money  and  skill  have  been  lavished  upon  tliem,  and  their  rest- 
ful attractions  speak  the  praises  of  the  city.  To  step  out  of 
the  hurry  and  dust  of  the  busy  street,  through  the  gates  of  a 
park,  and  walk  at  once  into  cool  solitudes  and  dark  shades 
where  dwell  lovely  flowers  and  birds,  is  a  privilege  which  the 
denizens  of  Melbourne  can  ever  enjoy.  The  principal  streets 
are  nicely  paved  with  wooden  blocks.  They  are  kept  scrupu- 
lously clean,  being  swept  by  machinery  early  each  morning, 
and  constantly  tended  by  boys  through  the  day. 

The  traveler  is  at  once  impressed  with  the  admii'able  tram 
system  of  Melbourne,  which  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  world. 
Formerly  passenger  traffic  was  by  omnibus  and  by  train.  The 
latter  feature  still  prevails  to  a  great  extent.  An  excellent 
suburban  train  service  is  maintained  between  the  central  city 
and  the  different  urban  quarters  and  all  outlying  districts. 
About  the  year  1885,  privileges  of  building  cable  tram  lines 
were  granted  to  a  company,  and  from  time  to  time  additions 
have  been  made  to  their  charter,  till  now  they  have  over  forty 
miles  of  well-equipped  lines  in  operation.  The  straight  and 
level  streets  render  this  means  of  conveyance  very  practicable, 
enabling  the  system  to  work  smoothly,  comfortably,  and  with 
but  few  breaks. 

In  natural  scenery  Melbourne  has  but  little  to  compare 
with  Sydney.  The  Yarra,  a  pleasant  stream  above  the  ship- 
ping point,  flows  alongside  the  Botanical  Gardens.  These  gar- 
dens are  extensive  and  well-kept,  and  are  remarkable  for  their 
beauty  ;  but  one's  admiration  of  them  is  considerably  tempered 
after  a  visit  to  those  in  Sydney.  However,  in  the  Zoological 
Gardens,  which  lie  within  easy  reach,  we  find  a  superiority 
over  those  of  the  sister  city.  Melbourne's  mean  temperature 
is,  as  above  stated,  about  sixty  degrees,  and  such  a  climate  is 
favorable  for  the  care  of  a  very  large  class  of  animals  which 
live  in  the  open  air  throughout  the  year. 


100  THE   SOUTHERN  METROPOLIS. 

Ill  (he  very  center  of  the  city,  upon  the  banks  of  the  river, 
is  an  open  reserve  of  perhaps  one  hundred  and  sixty  or  two 
hundred  acres, -devoted  to  recreation  grounds.  Here,  upon 
Saturday  afternoons,  crowds  of  people  gather  to  participate  in 
or  witness  games  and  sports.  The  ground  is  parceled  out  to 
ditferent  organizations  by  whom  it  is  held  under  the  govern- 
ment. Ill  addition  to  these  breathing-places,  there  are  parks 
and  o'ardens  too  numerous  to  mention.  Prominent  anions: 
them  are  the  Fitzrov,  the  Treasur^%  the  Carlton  Gardens,  and 
Royal  Park,  in  the  latter  of  which  the  Zoological  Gardens  are 
situated. 

In  the  central  portion  of  the  city  is  the  famous  Library 
and  Museum.  The  former  is  one  of  the  world's  celebrated 
collection  of  books  ;  and  the  latter  embraces  a  fine  art  gallery 
and  an  industrial  museum.  The  National  Museum,  in  connec- 
tion with  the  State  University,  is  a  very  fine  collection  of  objects 
of  natural  iiistory  from  every  part  of  the  earth.  In  viewing 
the  public  buildings  of  Melbourne,  a  stranger  feels  some  sur- 
prise that  in  this  remote  corner  of  the  earth  such  costly  and 
substantial  edifices  are  to  be  found.  The  town-hall  and  Fed- 
eral Coffee  Palace,  on  Collins  street ;  St.  Paul's  Cathedral,  the 
Exposition  Building,  Parliament  House,  as  well  as  many  of 
the  V  banks  and  business  blocks,  are  noble  specimens  of  an 
architecture  which  would  grace  any  city  on  earth. 


SIGHTS  AND  SCENES  IN  AUSTRALIA. 


lOR  those  who  desire  a  pleasant  day's  outing  in  Mel- 
bourne there  are  several  trips  which  hold  out  pleasur- 
able inducements.  One  is  an  excursion  by  one  of  the 
many  pleasure-boats  of  Port  Philip  to  Queenscliff  or 
Sorrento.  Going  to  the  latter  place,  a  steam  tram  takes  us 
across  a  narrow  neck  of  land  to  the  Back  Beach, —  where  old 
ocean  in  his  quiet  mood  laves  the  rocks  and  sands,  or  in  his 
fury  dashes  his  thundering  breakers  upon  them.  Bathing  in 
the  harbor  is  a  favorite  pastime,  but  on  account  of  the  presence 
of  sharks  it  must  be  done  within  an  inclosure.  During  my 
stay  in  the  city  a  circumstance  happened  that  illustrates  the 
necessity  of  this  protection,  for  in  this  case  a  ravenous  monster 
broke  through  the  slender  fence  and  attacked  some  children 
who  were  bathing.  The  water  was  too  shallow  for  the  shark 
to  operate  to  advantage,  and  the  mother,  being  near,  snatched 
her  child  from  its  jaws.  The  outcry  brought  a  crowd  of  men, 
who  in  a  short  time  stretched  this  hyena  of  the  deep  upon 
the  shore. 

If  one  does  not  care  to  go  to  the  ocean,  he  may  take  one 
of  the  two  lines  of  steamers  that  run  to  the  neighboring  city 
of  Geelong,  which  contains  over  tw'enty  thousand  inhabitants, 
and  is  situated  upon  Corio  Bay,  a  branch  of  Port  Philip.  Our 
fancy  takes  us  to  the  Dandenong  Mountains.  The  train  leaves 
us  near  the  mouth  of  Fern-tree  Gully,  which  we  proceed  to 
ascend  and  explore.  We  see  some  fine  specimens  of  the 
eucalyptus  timber,  of  which  there  are  many  species,  and  which 

[107] 


108 


STGIITS  AXD    SCEXES  JX  AUSTRALIA. 


under  lavor;i])lo  circuiiisttiuces  grows  tall  and  straight.  Upon 
these  niounlains  Ihoro  arc  trees  that  almost  rival  the  celebrated 
trees  of  Calilbrnia.  There  are  stumps  twelve  feet  in  diameter, 
and  laHen  trees  whose  length  measures  fully  three  hundred 
feet.     This  is  a  government  reservation,  under  ollicial  protec- 


Ferns. 

tlon,  so  after  passing  through  the  gate  we  are  under  ban  not 
to  piek  flowers  or  injure  plants  or  trees.  Down  the  narrow 
gully  pours  a  stream  of  clear  water,  pure  and  cool.  The 
ascent  becomes  more  steep  as  we  proceed,  and  the  sides  of 
the  cafion  contract  as  the  altitude  increases.  Majestic  fern 
trees  intercept  the  sunshine  and  almost  exclude  the  daylight. 
These  trees  are  unique  in  the  vegetable  world.  The  only  life 
they  possess  is  centered  at  the  crown,  or  top,  of  the  trunk. 


FERN- TREE    GULLY.  IQO 

Every  season  a  new  circle  of  fei'n  fronds  is  sent  out  from  this 
point.  Their  long  arms  extend  lioin  three  to  ten  feet,  forming 
an  umbrella  top.  In  autumn  tlicy  die,  and  from  their  dry 
roots  the  new  crop  is  sent  out  in  spring;  thus  season  after 
season  the  height  and  size  of  the  trunk  is  increased,  but  it 
contains  no  life  below  the  point  where  the  branches  are  sent 
out.  Accordingly,  in  order  to  transplant  the  trees  it  is  but 
necessary  to  cut  off  the  trunk  at  the  desired  height  and  set  it 
in  the  ground  like  a  j^ost.  Some  of  these  trees  grow  to  a 
height  of  fifty  or  sixty  feet.  Their  shade  is  dense  and  very 
cool  in  combination  with  the  damp  atmosphere  in  Avhicli  tliey 
grow. 

Rocks,  boulders,  and  fallen  trees  either  impede  the  progress 
or  serve  as  bridues  and  walks.  Thus  we  climb,  listenino"  to 
and  watching  the  beautiful  cascades  over  which  the  noisy 
brook  tumbles  down  the  steep  decline,  until  our  strength,  over- 
stimulated  by  the  excitement,  begins  to  show  signs  of  giving 
out.  But  it  seems  impossible  to  give  up,  for  each  step  ap- 
pears to  reveal  more  striking  loveliness  and  grandeur.  There- 
fore, with  repeated  resting-spells,  we  clind)  on  —  by  this  time 
progress  means  climbing,  for  we  are  now  ascending  the  mount- 
ain-side. At  last  we  are  compelled  to  leave  the  course  of  the 
brook,  if  M'e  proceed  ;  and  striking  directly  u])  the  steep,  we 
soon  emerge  into  a  scene  of  singular  beauty.  We  are  three 
thousand  feet  above  the  bay  ;  before  us  lies  the  city ;  over 
twenty  miles  away  is  Port  Philip  with  its  shipping ;  and  in  the 
dim  distance  lies  old  ocean  in  peaceful  repose,  dotted  here  and 
there  with  a  vessel.  Many  miles  of  country  stretch  out  in 
all  directions,  and  every  thought  of  weariness  is  dispelled, 
while  we  hear  from  all  lips,  ''0,  I  wouldn't  have  missed  this 
for  anything  !" 

After  satisfying  our  eyes,  we  return,  and  are  glad  to  find 
that  our  weiaht  is  in  our  favor  in  the   descent.     The  remains 


'A 

« 

O 

cq 

W 


O 
H 
►J 
►J 
O 
O 

Q 
>^ 

O 


THE  KANGAROO.  HI 

of  a  lunch  are  quickly  disposed  of,  and  we  wonder  why  we  did 
not  In'ino;  more.  After  a  few  aames  hy  the  vouno'sters  on  the 
green  banks  of  the  stream,  we  are  more  than  ready  for  the 
train  which  is  to  take  ns  home. 

Those  wishing  more  than  one  day's  reveling  with  nature, 
generally  take  an  outfit  and  go  farther  into  the  mountains, 
where  scenes  of  weird  beauty  and  grandeur  await  them.  Not 
many  miles  inland  the  kangaroo  may  be  found  in  his  native 
wildness.  Leaving  my  tent  early  one  morning,  I  had  the  pleas- 
ure of  starting  out  a  very  large  "  old  man,"  as  the  males  are 
called.  To  witness  his  flight  was  indeed  a  pleasure  greater 
than  to  have  shot  the  innocent  creature.  These  animals  are 
of  a  light  gray  color.  Their  forelegs  and  claws  are  little  more 
than  rudimental,  and  are  used  principally  in  digging  roots,  and 
for  jDrehensile  purposes  in  obtaining  food  What  these  mem- 
bers lack  in  size  has  been  added  to  the  hind  legs  and  tail. 
Upon  these  they  sit  nearly  erect ;  and  when  they  wish  to 
change  their  locality,  they  do  it  by  leaping  without  touching 
the  ground  with  their  forelegs.  The  leaps  they  make  are 
something  snrprising.  The  one  of  which  I  speak  cleared  the 
underbrush  at  every  bound,  leaping  ten  feet  into  the  air,  and 
covering,  I  should  judge,  twenty-five  feet  at  a  bound,  though 
it  is  possible  that  my  excited  imagination  slightly  warped  my 
facnlty  of  measuring.  A  fence  presented  no  obstacle.  But  he 
was  too  soon  out  of  sioht. 

The  emu,  a  bird  resembling  the  ostrich,  but  smaller,  used 
to  be  very  common  in  Australia,  but  is  disappearing  from  the 
range  of  civilization.  The  Australian  bear,  an  animal  a  little 
larger  than  a  raccoon,  and  partaking  somewhat  of  the  character- 
istics of  the  bear,  though  entirely  harmless,  abounds  in  the 
wooded  districts  ;  as  does  the  opossum,  which  is  of  a  larger 
variety  than  those  of  our  Southern  States.  There  are  a  few 
other  small  animals,  some  of  them,  as  the  kangaroos,  belonging 


112 


SIGHTS  AXD    SCENES  IN  AUSTRALIA. 


to  the  marsupials,  but  none  of  them  are  Avortliy  of  much 
notice.  The  wild  dog,  or  dingo,  has  given  much  trouble  to 
sheep-raisers,  but  these  are  fast  disappearing. 


Kangakoos. 


But  the  real  game  of  Australia  is  the  rabbit.  This  animal 
is  not  a  native  of  the  country,  but  was  brought  from  England 
by    some   gentleman   who  wished  to  introduce  them  for  the 


BIRDS  AND   ANIMALS. 


113 


chase.  It  has  turned  out  to  be  more  of  a  chase  than  was  antici- 
pated. Bunny  took  to  the  country  with  all  his  heart,  and 
soon  showed  the  people  what  rabbits  can  do  by  way  of  rapid 

breeding  when  they  have  a  fair 
chance. 

Though  destroyed  by  every 
possible  device,  the  rabbits  still 
hold  their  own.  Under  the 
circumstances,  no  one  seems  to 
have  any  compunctions  about 
killing  the  innocent  creatures. 
One  sroins;  a  few  miles  into  the 
country,  to  some  lonel}^  spot, 
has  no  trouble  in  shootinii:  in  a 
AusTKALiAx  Beak.  g^Qi-t  time  all  that  he  cares  to 

take  home.  They  are  hawked  on  the  streets  of  the  cities 
every  day  in  the  year,  and  often  sold  for  sixpence  a  pair. 
"Wild  rabbits;  wild  rabbits!"  mingled  with  "Fish,  oh; 
all  alive,  oh  ! "  shouted  and 
screamed  by  the  strong  voices 
of  men  and  women,  rings  in  the 
streets  from  early  morning  till 
noon.  To  many  people,  the 
terror  of  Australia  is  its  snakes. 
These  are  not  large  nor  very 
numerous,  but  they  are  almost, 
if  not  quite,  all  venomous,  and 
their  bite  is  fiital.  But  no  one 
need  keep  away  from  the  coun- 
try on  their  account,  for  after  ^'^^^• 
a  residence  of  over  four  years  in  the  country,  I  came  away 
without  having  seen  one.  They  are  there  however,  as 
some  of  my  friends  who  saw  and  killed  them  can  testify. 


ll  I  SJdTITS   A XI)   SCENES  TX  ATSTRALIA. 

Tlie  liiids  ()(■  tliis  regio^i  are  not  so  plentiful  as  in  the 
Noi'thciii  licuiisphere,  but  they  are  generally  of  more  marked 
chaiaeteristies.  The  most  numerous  class  is  the  magpie, 
which  abounds  everywhere.  As  is  quite  well  known,  it  be- 
longs to  the  crow  family,  and  resembles  its  black  cousins  in 
many  respects.  In  color,  the  magpie  is  black  and  white. 
They  may  l)c  taught  to  speak  a  limited  vocabulary,  though 
their  forte  is  in  whistlinii'  and  stealinii". 

There  are  several  varieties  of  parrots  in  Australia. 
The  most  common  are  the  little  rosella  parrots,  commonly 
called  Joey  Inrds,  because  their  favorite  note  seems  to  sound 
like,  ''Pretty  Joey."  Beautiful  white  cockatoos  fly  in  flocks 
through  the  country.  Not  every  cockatoo  can  learn  to  talk, 
but  some  of  them  become  very  voluble  and  exceedingly  inter- 
esting in  the  exercise  of  their  conversational  talent.  But 
while  they  are  beautiful  in  plumage  and  versatile  in  wit,  they 
have  such  an  outlandish  scream  that  it  is  almost  nerve-rending 
to  people  of  delicate  sensibilities.  If  they  see  a  dog  or  any- 
thing else  that  displeases  them,  or  if  they  wish  to  attract 
attention,  or  often  without  any  apparent  provocation,  they 
\n\\\  utter  a  series  of  their  unearthly  screeches.  By  this  pecul- 
iarity all  their  other  virtues  and  attractions  are  so  f;ir  over- 
balanced that  many  people  decline  their  company  altogether. 
This  is  very  much  the  way  with  people.  Many  of  us  have 
some  very  fine  points, —  pretty  features,  quick  w4t,  nice 
clothes,  attractive  talents, —  but  upon  closer  acquaintance  we 
betray  our  natural  disposition  in  some  disagreeable  squawk. 
Everything  goes  well  as  long  as  things  are  pleasant,  but  the 
time  comes  when  something  reveals  the  temper,  and  then  w^e 
give  vent  to  a  blast  of  bitterness  that  astonishes  our  admirers. 
Good  breeding,  education,  or  any  accomplishment  wdiatever, 
is  but  a  mechanical,  parrot-like  acquirement  unless  the  heart 
be  sw^eetened  by  the  grace  and  presencQ  of  Jesus  Christ. 


lURDS   AXD    AmMALS. 


115 


There  is  another  odd  species  among  the  Australian  birds. 
It  is  known  by  the  snggestive  name  of  the  " hi iigliing  jackass." 
He  is  not  quite  so  hirge  as  the  magpie,  and  is  of  a  phun  gray 
color,  with  short  wing-and-tail  feathers,  giving  him  a  rough- 
and-ready  appearance.  Ilis  strong,  sharp  hill  is  well  sup- 
ported by  a  stout-looking  neck  and  head  crowned  with  a  saucy 
top-knot.  He  looks  at  his  human  visitors  with  an  independent, 
vicious  look,  but  says  nothing.  At  liberty,  upon  a  perch  in  a 
lofty  gum-tree,  he  soon  divulges  the  secret  of  his  n;ime  by 
settinsf  up  a  vigorous  lauo-hine;  that  starts  witli  a  sort  of  brav, 
then  runs  into  a  guffaw,  and  ends  with  a  hearty  laugh  that 
brings  responsive  laughter  and  applause  from  his  liearers  who 
listen  for  the  first  time  to  his  only  song.  On  account  of  tlieir 
wholesale  destruction  of  snakes,  these  birds  enjoy  special  pro- 
tection from  the  government,  which  makes  it  a  crime  ])unis]i- 
able  by  a  heavy  fine  to  destroy  them. 


Laughing   Jackass. 


r. 

J 


-J 


J 

•A 


A  BRIEF  HISTORY. 


HE  settlement  of  Australia  dates  practically  from  the 
discovery  of  gold  in  the  year  1851.  In  both  Victoria 
and  in  New  South  Wales  the  precious  metal  was 
found  in  the  same  year,  in  such  remarkable  quanti- 
ties and  so  easily  accessible  that  there  was  a  great  rush  to  the 
new  Eldorado,  equal  to  that  which  poured  into  California  two 
or  three  years  earlier.  The  announcement  that  gold  had  been 
discovered  in  the  Plenty  Ranges,  near  Melbourne,  was  first 
made  in  the  columns  of  a  local  paper,  early  in  June  of  1851. 
In  the  same  month  the  precious  metal  was  found  in  other 
localities  also.  The  news  spread  like  wildfire ;  and  hundreds 
were  soon  eagerly  searching  for  gold  in  all  settled  districts. 
Almost  simultaneously  magnificent  prospects  were  opened  in 
many  places.  It  seemed  that  nature  had  kindly  made  her 
richest  deposits  near  the  surfiice,  and  that  but  little  more  was 
required  than  to  go  and  pick  up  untold  riches.  At  the  richest 
diggings  men  congregated  by  thousands.  The  cities  were 
deserted,  as  were  the  rural  districts  and  the  cattle  stations. 
Even  the  public  service  was  left  to  take  care  of  itself,  and 
male  and  female  domestics  joined  the  rushing  throngs.  The 
position  of  the  governor  of  the  colonies  is  said  to  have  been 
exceedingly  embarrassing,  for  he  saw  himself  deserted,  the 
public  offices  vacant,  and  the  officials  fleeing.  Strange  to  sny, 
many  of  the  most  sanguine  hopes  were  more  than  realized. 
Six  months  after  the  discovery,  ten  tons  of  gold  had  already 
been  obtained  from  the  mines  of  Victoria. 

[117] 


118  A  BRIEF  HISTORY. 

When  this  news  reached  Europe  and  America,  a  stream  of 
people  set  in  for  Australia  that  for  the  time  nearly  swamped 
the  new  colonies.  As  vessels  reached  their  destination,  the}^ 
were  deserted  not  only  hy  i)assengers  but  by  sailors  as  well ; 
for  the  charms  of  the  rollin<;-  waves  were  not  sufficiently  strong 
to  keep  the  men  on  board  when  a  fortune  was  in  sight  for 
picking  it  up.  For  ten  years  the  yield  of  gold  was  enormous. 
In  the  second  year  of  the  excitement  not  less  than  sixty-two 
million  dollars  worth  of  it  was  found  in  Victoria.  Many  of 
the  great  prizes  were  dug  in  the  early  days.  Here  are  some 
of  them  :  One  nugget  weighed  1620  ounces,  another  2217, 
and    still   another    weiahino;    2280    ounces    was  found,  worth 

GO  " 

about  $45,000.  At  Golden  Point,  in  Ballarat,  men  made  from 
fifteen  hundred  to  two  thousand  dollars  a  dav.  Governor 
Latrobe  tells  us  that  he  saw  eight  pounds'  weight  of  gold 
washed  from  two  dishes  of  dirt.  But  not  all  were  so  success- 
ful ;  for  many  less  fortunate  ones  not  only  failed  to  procure 
wealth,  but  lost  the  little  they  had. 

Soon  the  criminal  element  appeared,  coming  principally 
from  Tasmania,  then  called  Van  Dieman's  Land,  where  was  a 
large  colony  of  deported  convicts,  some  of  whom  managed  to 
escape  and  cross  Bass'  Straits.  These  became  desperadoes, 
robbing  gold  trains,  and  in  one  instance  extending  their  depre- 
dations even  to  the  warship  "  Nelson,"  which  was  lying  in  the 
harbor,  from  which  they  succeeded  in  getting  gold  dust  to  the 
value  of  $120,000;  Gradually  the  surface  diggings  have  been 
exhausted,  so  that  at  the  present  time  gold  mining  is  mostly 
carried  on  in  deep  mines  of  rock,  with  the  aid  of  expensive 
machinery.  But  with  the  exploration  of  West  Australia  new 
discoveries  of  gold  are  rivaling  those  of  the  early  days. 

The  value  of  the  gold  mined  in  New  South  Wales  from 
1851  to  1890,  was  over  37,600,000  pounds  sterling,  or  $188,- 


RICHES    VS.   PROSPERITY.  Hg 

(MM). (MM);  while  in  Victoria,  during  the  same  period,  there  was 
obtained  57,000,000  ounces,  valued  at  227,357,430  pounds 
sterlinii",  or  over  eleven  hundred  million  dollars. 

Immense  fortunes  have  thus  been  amassed,  but  many  more 
have  been  squandered  ;  and  where  this  money  has  made  one 
man  happy  and  useful  to  his  fellow-men,  it  has  doubtless 
ruined  a  score.  Its  ultimate  eftects  upon  the  country  have 
not  been  altogether  good.  It  has  tended  to  the  formation  of 
false  ideas  of  the  value  of  money  as  well  as  to  a  lavish  expen- 
diture in  non-productive  buildings  and  pul)lic  works.  It  has 
caused  the  development  of  the  agricultural  resources  to  be 
greatly  neglected.  Other  industries  essential  to  the  permanent 
prosperity  of  the  country  have  been  slighted,  leaving  the 
colonies  to  stand  upon  an  uncertain  basis.  When  the  mines 
no  longer  yielded  their  fabulous  revenues,  the  extravagant  ex- 
penditure of  public  money  was  continued  by  borrowing  money 
in  the  London  market;  and  for  ^^ears  it  seemed  as  though  the 
credit  of  the  colonies  was  beyond  question  or  limit. 

Under  these  circumstances,  two  colossal  cities  were  built 
whi(  h  tower  above  the  country  in  enormous  proportions  when 
compared  with  the  ver}^  sparsely  settled  and  poorly  developed 
country  upon  which  they  nnist.  in  some  measure  at  least,  de- 
pend for  support.  In  1890,  one  third  of  the  population  of 
Victoria  was  in  Melbourne  ;  and  in  New  South  Wales  and 
Sydney  we  find  almost  similar  disproportions.  Up  to  this 
point,  for  some  years  an  almost  universal  spirit  of  speculation 
prevailed.  The  price  of  land  situated  in  or  near  the  cities  w^as 
run  up  to  fabulous  figures.  Syndicates  and  private  parties 
combined  to  "  boom  "  real  estate.  Then,  in  the  height  of  this 
fictitious  prosperity,  several  unfortunate  labor  strikes  occurred. 
This  had  the  effect  to  disturb  the  minds  of  Enolish  creditors, 
when  it  was  discovered  that  the  debt  of  Victoria  amounted  to 


a 


a 


a 


a 


A    CRASH.  121 

over  forty-three  and  a  half  million  pounds  sterling,  or  almost 
two  hundred  dollars  to  ever}^  man,  woman,  and  child  in  the 
colony,  while  that  of  New  South  Wales  was  even  greater. 

True,  a  good  share  of  it  was  invested  in  railways,  but  these 
could  hardly  pay  expenses  ;  consequently  the  Lombard-street 
money-lenders  made  up  their  minds  that  it  was  time  to  draw 
up  their  piirse  strings.  The  next  consequence  was  that  the 
banks  refused  further  credits,  and  called  in  their  over-drafts. 
Government  works  were  stopped,  and  a  terrible  crash  in  finan- 
cial matters  at  once  took  place.  Men  were  turned  out  of  em- 
ployment, business  was  paralyzed,  and  for  several  years  the 
prospect  looked  very  dark  and  gloomy.  All  this  was  the  re- 
sult of  false  ideas  of  prosperity,  of  building  castles  without  a 
good  foundation.  The  crash  that  came,  involved  not  only  the 
poor,  but  those  who  were  supposed  to  be  wealthy.  In  such  a 
time  of  temptation  many  attempted  to  recover  their  fortunes 
by  disreputable  measures.  A  craze  of  embezzlement  attended 
the  general  smash-up ;  and  even  trusted  clerks,  who  had  dab- 
bled in  races  and  land  speculations,  learned  to  steal  their  em- 
ployers' money,  hoping  thus  to  retrieve  their  fortunes.  The 
hand  of  justice  soon  rested  upon  many  such  victims,  landing 
men  of  high  position  and  great  respectability  behind  the  bars. 

It  is  perhaps  useless  to  enlarge  upon  this  disagreeable 
picture;  it  may  have  its  uses  in  teaching  us  tbe  vanity  of 
earthly  things,  and  the  importance  of  a  f^iithful  and  careful  use 
of  what  we  have  and  what  we  use  in  prosperous  times.  No 
very  perceptible  serious  impression  has,  however,  been  made 
upon  the  average  Australian  by  the  things  he  has  suffered  ; 
for  his  love  of  pleasure  and  his  determination  to  enjoy  himself 
seem  to  be  as  strong  as  ever. 

Of  all  the  days  in  the  Melbourne  calendar,  Cup-dny  is  the 
most  memorable.  This  time  of  festivity  also  enjoys  a  broader 
name  as  Cup-week,    for   the   sports    embraced   in  the  period 


122  '^   BRIEF  HISTORY. 

cover  a  week.  The  woi'd  "  cup  "  refers  to  a  trophy  which  is 
offered  as  the  nominal  prize  for  a  horse-race  which  forms  the 
central  one  of  several  similar  games  celehrated  during  the 
week.  Cup-day  is  usually  the  first  Tuesday  in  Noveml)er. 
It  is  early  summer  then.  Not  only  tlie  city,  but  the  whole 
country  a])parently,  is  abandoned  to  the  sole  idea  of  enjoying 
the  sport.  The  races  are  run  o\'er  a  beautifully  rounded 
course  in  Flemington,  one  of  the  sul)url)s  of  Melbourne.  They 
are  often  witnessed  by  one  hundred  thousand  people.  Some- 
times as  much  as  seventy-five  thousand  dollars  is  added  as  a 
private  purse  to  the  Melbourne  cup,  which  is  bestowed  upon 
the  winning  horse.  But  even  this  great  sum  is  but  a  modicnm 
of  the  money  involved,  for  every  man  and  woman  who  ever 
ena;aa;es  in  bettinu',  ventures  some  money  on  the  Melbourne 
cup.  In  a  few  minutes  the  race  is  over,  the  rpiestion  is  de- 
cided ;  some  are  made  wealthy,  others  are  ruined  l)y  the  re- 
sult. In  attendance  upon  the  grand  event  are  the  governors  of 
the  different  colonies,  together  with  their  staffs  and  families; 
it  is  also  graced  by  the  attendance  of  the  officers  of  the  army 
and  navy  ;  and  many  small  fortunes  are  lavished  in  dress  and 
outfits  for  the  occasion.  It  is  a  carnival  of  sin,  pride,  and 
folly  which  far  outranks,  in  proportion  to  the  country,  the 
celebrated  Derby  races  of  England. 

Next  to  this  season  of  sport  comes  Christmas-tide.  Christ- 
mas itself  is  quite  religiously  observed,  no  work  or  business 
being  performed  on  the  day,  but  the  sobriety  of  that  day  is 
expected  to  offset  a  great  deal  of  folly  on  the  next. .  The  next 
day  after  Christmas  is  called  Boxing-day,  on  account  of  the 
universal  custom  of  uiving  Christmas-boxes.  However,  there 
is  very  seldom  jiny  box  about  it ;  it  more  frequently  means  a 
small  gift  of  money  to  those  wdio  bring  your  mail,  sw^eep  your 
sidewalk,  carry  aw^ay  your  garbage,  or  serve  you  in  any 
capacity  ;  while  upon  your  part  you  may    expect   that  your 


HOLIDAYS.  123 

grocer,  milkman,  baker,  etc.,  will  turn  the  comidiniriit  by  giv- 
ing yon  some  little  recognition  of  your  patronage;  and  these 
little  mementoes  are  called  Chi'istmas-boxes.  The  custom  is 
an  English  one,  and  although  it  may  be  losing  its  hold  upon 
colonial  people,  its  name  has  been  inseparably  connected  with 
the  day  mentioned.  It  has  to  the  Australian  a  greater  signifi- 
cation than  giving  or  receiving  paltry  presents.  It  means  fun 
and  frolic  to  his  heart's  content.  Coming,  as  it  does,  in  mid- 
summer, the  entertainments  of  the  day  do  not  have  to  be 
confined  indoors.  During  the  week  intervening  between 
Christmas  and  New  Year's,  but  little  business  is  done.  It 
takes  about  ten  days  to  celebrate  Christmas  "properly." 

In  autumn  comes  Easter.  Lent  is  religiously  observed  by 
a  great  many  people,  at  least  after  a  manner;  Good  Friday  is 
a  melancholy  day  on  which  the  people  generally  refrain  from 
work,  even  if  they  have  to  Avork  on  Sunday  to  make  up  for 
the  loss.  Easter  Sunda}'  is  celebrated  in  the  usual  cheerful 
manner ;  but  on  Easter  Monday  all  the  religiousness  of  Lent 
and  Good  Friday  is  let  out.  as  through  a  safety  valve. 

In  speaking  thus  of  the  pleasure-loving  instincts  of  the  peo- 
ple, it  should  not  be  understood  that  the  remarks  have  any- 
thing more  than  a  general  application.  The  people  of  Australia 
in  general  have  great  respect  for  the  Bible,  and  liian}^  of 
them  are  persons  of  deep  piety  and  conscientious  devotion. 
About  twenty-five  per  cent  of  the  people  are  Roman  Catholics; 
another  fourth  of  them  are  Episcopalians  ;  while  Presbyterians 
and  Methodists  make  np  another  fourth  ;  and  in  the  remaining 
fourth  nearly  every  known  sect  and  denomination  is  repre- 
sented, with  a  mixture  of  those  who  acknowledge  neither  God 
nor  the  Bible. 


[124] 


Council  Chambek. 


OTHER  COLONIES. 


'USTRALIA'S  third  city  of  importance  is  Adelaide, 
the  capital  of  South  Australia,  five  hundred  miles 
northwest  from  Melbourne.  The  city  is  not  reached 
directly  by  navigable  water,  though  Port  Adelaide, 
on  St.  Vincent  Gulf,  is  only  a  few  miles  distant,  and  is  closely 
connected  by  railway  and  good  roads.  Adelaide  is  connected 
with  Melbourne  by  a  good  line  of  railway.  The  only  express 
train  covers  most  of  the  distance  in  the  ni<iht.  Leavino;  Mel- 
bourne  at  five  p.  m.,  we  pass  Geelong  and  Ballarat,  two  pros- 
perous cities,  before  nightfall.  After  passing  through  a  long 
stretch  of  fiirming  and  mining  country  we  cross  the  Ninet}^- 
mile  Desert,  and  reach  the  Murray  River  at  breakfiist  time. 
From  this  point  the  scenery  is  very  fine.  In  crossing  the 
range  of  hills  that  surround  Adelaide,  no  less  than  seven  tun- 
nels are  passed  through.  When  we  have  passed  the  last  one, 
and  are  upon  the  brow  of  the  range,  a  beautiful  panorama  lies 
before  us,  embracing  Adelaide,  with  several  surrounding  towns, 
and  the  broad  expanse  of  the  gulf. 

Adelaide  has  a  population  of  over  one  hundred  and  thirty 
thousand,  and  is  regarded  by  many  as  the  most  beautiful  of  all 
the  Australian  capitals.  Its  business  portion  is  compactly  and 
regularly  laid  out,  with  wide  and  straight  streets  crossing  each 
other  at  right  angles  Extending  all  around  this  portion  of 
the  city  is  a  broad  strip  of  park  lands,  through  which  it  is 
necessary  to  pass  in  order  to  reach  the  suburbs,  where  most  of 

[125] 


O 
if 


ADELAIDE.  127 

the  dwellings  are  Incited.  This  enntinTunis  p;nk  is  avoU  kept, 
and  embraces  both  the  Zoological  and  the  Botanical  gardens. 
Both  tliese  gardens  are  very  jnstly  celebrated  for  ilieir  com- 
pleteness and  rare  beaut}'.  If  the  comparative  size  of  the  cit- 
ies be  taken  into  consideration,  greater  credit  for  these  places 
of  resort  must  be  given  to  Adelaide  than  to  either  jNIelbonrne 
or  Sydney.  Surrounding  Adelaide  is  an  amphitheater  of  hills, 
which  furnish  a  cool  retreat  in  the  heated  season.  The  cit}^ 
has  the  reputation  of  being  very  warm  ;  and  although  I  have 
never  experienced  its  summer  heat,  I  ha\e  no  dilliculty  in 
crediting  the  report  fi'oni  what  we  know  of  its  s[iring  climate. 
But  the  heat  being  dry  it  is  (juite  endurable  ;  the  climate,  on  the 
whole,  is  also  very  beneficial  to  those  affected  with  wxvakness  of 
the  lungs.  At  Port  Adelaide  the  incoming  European  mails  are 
dischariied  from  the  steamers,  and  forwarded  to  Melbourne 
and  Sydney  l>y  train  ;  here  the  outgoing  mails  are  also  taken 
on  board,  thus  makin"'  a  savinii;  of  several  da\'s'  time. 

South  Australia  stretches  away  to  the  noi'tli  across  the 
whole  continent.  There  are  several  towns  of  less  importance 
than  Adelaide,  and  as  far  in  the  interior  as  a  white  man  can 
live,  are  found  sheep-stations  and  immense  wheat-fields,  the 
products  of  which  are  brought  to  the  sea-board  by  long  trains 
of  camels.  A  circumstance  related  by  a  friend  as  occurring  in 
one  of  these  trains  illustrates  the  vindictive  character  of  the 
camel,  the  shi[)  of  the  desert.  One  of  the  dri\('rs  had  occa- 
sion, either  justly  or  unjustly  (very  likely  the  latter),  to  boat 
one  of  these  laden  beasts  severelv.  That  niuht  the  camel 
broke  his  tether,  and  stealthily  approaching  his  driver's  tent, 
threw  himself  upon,  and  ti-ampled  it  into  the  dust,  with  the 
evident  purpose  of  killing  his  persecutor.  His  plan  was  frus- 
trated though,  for  it  happened  that  the  man,  preferring  to  sleep 
under  a  tree  that  niuht,  had  removed  from  the  tent  with  his 
blanket,  and  thus  escaped  death. 


128  OTHER    COLOXIES. 

Queensland  and  West  xVustralia  are  as  yet  but  sparsely 
populated.  The  former  is  a  land  of  great  and  varied  resources. 
Its  mining  interests  are  great,  but  secondary  in  importance  to 
those  of  grazing.  Immense  flocks  of  sheep  and  herds  of  cattle 
graze  on  its  fertile  interior  plains,  while  nearer  the  sea-shore 
tropical  fruits  and  sugar-cane  are  profitably  grown.  Its  cli- 
mate is  tr^'ing  to  ])(M»])le  from  the  temperate  regions,  but  is 
hiahlv  recommended  bv  most  of  those  who  become  accustomed 
to  it.  Brisbane,  its  cai)ital,  has  a  population  of  about  forty- 
eiaht  thousand,  and  is  a  beautiful  city.  Several  towns  of  con- 
siderable  importance  lie  along  the  eastern  coast. 

In  the  southwest  corner  of  Australia,  in  the  colony  of  West 

.  .        .  "  . 

Australia,  is   the   town   of  Albany,   which   is   the   first   point 

reached  by  European  boats,  and  the  last  one  left  by  those  out- 
ward bound.  Perth,  the  capital  city,  lies  farther  north  of  the 
western  coast,  and  had,  in  1891,  a  population  of  nearly  ten 
thousand.  Freemantle  had  seven  thousand.  Since  that  time 
new  mining  interests  have  been  started,  and  there  has  been 
quite  an  influx  of  floating  inhabitants. 

South  of  the  Australian  continent  lies  the  little  island  of 
Tasmania,  named  after  its  discoA'erer,  though  formerly  called 
VanDieman's  Land,  in  honor  of  General  Anthony  VanDieman, 
o'overnor  of  Batavia,  bv  Avhoni  Abel  Jansz  Tasman  was  com- 
missioned  to  explore  the  shores  of  the  great  Southern  world, 
Tasmania  was  sia'hted  l)y  tliis  brave  Dutch  sailor  in  November, 
1642.  The  natives  Avere  greatly  alarmed  by  the  ajtparition  of 
two  such  monstrous  birds  of  prey  as  his  ships  seemed  to  be. 
Later  on  this  same  voyage,  New  Zealand  was  broui>ht  to  the 
notice  of  the  world  ;  but  it  was  over  a  century  before  any 
further  attempt  Avas  made  by  white  men  to  cultivate  the  ac- 
quaintance of  the  ncAv-found  islands;  and  even  to  the  close  of 
the  eighteenth  century  it  Avas  not  known  that  Tasmania  Avas 
not  a  part  of  the  mainland.     In  the  year  1798  Surgeon  Bass 


ACROSS   THE   STRAITS. 


129 


discovered  some  reasons  for  believing  that  Tasmania  was  an 
island;  therefore,  sailing  in  the  ship  "Norfolk"  around  to  the 
north,  his  opinion  was  confirmed,  and  the  straits  which  sepa- 
rate the  island  from  the  continent  received  his  name. 

A  trip  to   Tasmania  may  be  Aery   comfortably  made  from 


Botanical   Gardens,    Adelaide. 

Melbourne,  provided  the  weather  be  kind,  which  is  not  always 
the  case.  The  distance  to  Launceston,  the  northern  metropo- 
lis of  Tasmania,  is  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles.  The 
first  forty  are  in  the  smooth  waters  of  Port  Phillip,  and 
the  last  twenty  on  the  placid  and  picturesque  river  Tamar. 
The  intervening  ninety  miles  may  be  called  a  '^'' swell  coun- 

9 


I;;()  OTHER    COLONIES. 

try."  Tlic  tides  and  the  currents  which  prevail,  and  the 
winds  wliicli  frequently  blow  between  the  bodies  of  land,  keep 
the  waters  aiiitated  the  most  of  the  time.  80  when  the  Mel- 
bournite  becomes  bilious,  or  generally  out  of  sorts  with  himself 
and  the  world  at  Lirge,  he  may  get  rid  of  the  past  and  start 
anew  with  his  stomach  in  a  good  thorough  wa}'  by  a  night's 
ride  across  the  straits.  But  when  he  is  across,  he  is  haunted 
by  the  idea  that  on  his  way  homeward  he  must  repeat  the 
performance,  which  he  is  apt  to  regard  as  more  than  his  stom- 
ach reall}"  requires.  However,  one  night's  sickness  is  not 
dangerous  ;  and  like  the  little  boy  of  our  own  memories,  he 
*•'  takes  his  medicine  like  a  man."  But  a  moderate  amount  of 
gastric  gymnastics  is  unquestionably  good  for  a  torpid  diges- 
tion ;  and  if  the  exercise  be  not  too  prolonged,  one  feels  bet- 
ter after  having  gone  through  the  disagreeable  performance. 
Sometimes  this  therapeutic  programme  is  omitted  on  account 
of  the  extraordinary  stillness  of  the  night ;  in  which  case  the 
passenger  wakes  in  the  morning  after  a  refreshing  sleep,  walks 
out  on  deck  to  view^  with  delight  the  headlands  of  Tasmania, 
and  thanks  his  luck  that  he  has  been  let  off  so  easily,  notwith- 
standinii'  the  needed  renovation  of  his  stomach. 

The  most  beautiful  and  interesting  of  all  sights  at  sea  is 
land,  and  particularly  so  if  it  be  the  land  of  destination.  We 
enter  the  broad  mouth  of  the  Tamar  through  a  long  line  of 
buovs  and  sailinii'  signals,  fur  the  channel  is  devious  and 
changeable,  and  has  caused  many  a  captain  to  mistake  his 
bearings  to  his  sorrow.  A  boat  containing  customs  officers  is 
soon  put  out  from  the  little  village  near  the  light-house  at  the 
Heads,  and  the  next  thing  in  order  is  to  have  the  luggage 
"  passed."  While  this  is  being  done,  ^ve  are  sailing  up  the 
Tamar  Biver,  the  banks  of  which  have  now  come  nearer  to- 
gether, while  the  valley  has  widened  out.  At  a  distance  of 
three  or  four  miles  we  can  see  Launceston,  situated  upon  the 


n\.)/.L\7.i,  131 

slopes  of  the  valley,  and  presenting  a  fine  view.  It  is  a  town 
of  seventeen  thousand,  nicely  located  and  containing  some  fine 
buildings.  Its  distance  from  the  ocean  and  the  dependence  of 
deep-sea  vessels  npon  the  tide  render  it  very  difiicult  of  access. 
But  it  has  fine  farming  lands  in  its  vicinity,  and  enjoys  a  de- 
sirable climate. 

Tasmania  contains  about  twenty-six  thousand  square  miles 
of  territorv,  and  is  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  loni>"  from  north 
to  south.  Its  inhabitants  number  one  hundred  and  forty-six 
thousand  in  round  figures.  Hobart,  the  principal  and  oldest 
city,  is  situated  in  the  southern  part,  on  a  fine  harbor  which 
forms  the  mouth  of  the  river  Derwent.  A  narrow-sruaoe  rail- 
way  connects  the  two  principal  cities,  and  in  its  express-train 
the  trip  may  be  comfortably  and  quickly  made.  Two  or  three 
ranges  of  hills  are  crossed  in  the  journey,  revealing  some  scen- 
ery of  rare  beauty.  Tasmania  is  the  Switzerland  of  Australia. 
Its  scenery,  with  its  beautiful  summer  climate,  makes  it  a 
favorite  resort  durinir  the  hot  season. 

Upon  one  occasion  an  old  lady  entered  the  car  (or  carriage, 
to  speak  after  the  British  style)  as  the  train  was  about  to 
leave  Launceston  for  Ilobart.  She  seemed  rather  bewildered, 
scarcely  knowing  where  to  take  her  seat.  In  these  narrow 
cars  the  seats  run  around  the  sides  and  the  ends  of  the  com- 
partment ;  so,  seeing  her  dilemma,  a  passenger  offered  her  a 
place,  which  she  accepted  with  thanks,  and  remarked,  as  she 
looked  about,  that  this  was  the  first  time  that  she  was  ever  on 
a  train.  She  was  apparently  seventy-five  years  of  age,  and  to 
the  query  where  she  lived,  she  replied  that  she  lived  right 
there  in  Launceston.  When  we  reached  the  little  station  of 
Leonardsville,  about  three  miles  out,  she  further  remarked 
that  she  now  saw  that  place  for  the  first  time,  though  she  had 
often  heard  of  it.  She  then  said  that  she  came  from  Enaland 
Avhen  eight  years  of  age,  but  had  never  been  out  of  the  town 


HO  BART.  133 

since  she  landed,  nearly  threescore  and  ten  years  before. 
When  the  train  was  under  full  motion,  her  astonishment  at  the 
rapidity  with  which  she  was  traveling  was  amusing.  It  was 
strange  to  find  a  Mrs.  Rip  Van  Winkle  who  had  overslept  the 
old  gentleman  by  forty  years,  with  her  eyes  wide  open,  and  in 
the  midst  of  a  city  at  that. 

Hobart  is  a  quaint  town  of  twenty-five  thousand,  quiet  and 
conservative  in  its  ways,  and  more  English  than  any  of  the 
other  capitals  of 'these  colonies.  For  situation  it  is  the  joy  of 
the  country.  In  its  front  lies  the  placid  harbor,  with  deep 
clear  waters,  where  the  largest  ships  can  float.  In  its  rear 
stands  Mount  Wellington,  three  thousand  feet  in  height,  a 
beautiful  cone,  topped  in  winter  with  a  cap  of  snow.  From 
Hobart  as  a  center  many  delightful  trips  may  be  made.  One 
of  them  is  by  steamer  up  the  Derwent,  where  very  picturesque 
scenery  abounds.  Another  is  by  steamer  down  the  harbor  to 
Port  Arthur.  Others  are  by  carriage  to  the  Huon  River  and 
various  places  of  attractive  beauty.  Tasmanian  fruit  and  cli- 
mate are  the  principal  attractions  of  the  colony,  and  they  are 
of  very  fine  quality.  Mining  of  gold  and  of  tin  is  carried  on 
extensively,  particuLnly  of  the  latter  metal.  Wool  is  also 
exported. 

The  early  settlement  of  Tasmania  is  associated  Avith  the  con- 
vict colonies,  wdiich  by  order  of  the  British  government  were 
taken  there  as  overflows  from  Port  Jackson  and  Sydney.  A 
few  criminals  were  sent  there  in  1802,  as  a  vanguard  of  a  mul- 
titude that  was  to  follow.  They  first  settled  at  a  point  now 
called 'Risdon,  four  miles  above  Hobart.  The  settling  of  free 
people  upon  the  island  was  also  encouraged,  but  these  endured 
many  hardships  from  time  to  time  through  struggles  with  the 
fierce  criminal  element,  as  well  as  with  the  black  aboriginals. 
In  time  the  practice  of  transporting  criminals  ceased,  and  the 
poor  natives  disappeared.    In  1835,  the  remnant   of  the  latter 


134 


O  THER    ( r>  L  OAVES. 


were  gathered  and  [lut  on  Flinders  Islands ;  everything  pos- 
sible was  done  for  their  comfort,  but  in  vain,  and  in  LSTG 
Truganini,  a,  woman,  the  last  of  her  race,  i)assed  away.  She 
outlived  by  a  few  years  "  King  Billy."  Good  portraits  of  both 
have  been  preserved.  For  six  years,  beginning  in  1837,  the 
colony  had  the  honor  of  having  for  its  governor  Sir  John 
Franklin,  the  celebrated  Arctic  explorer. 

No  one  who  visits  Tasmania  will  ever  forget  the  many 
pleasant  impressions  which  he  is  sure  to  receive.  The  grand 
scenery,  genial  climate,  but  above  all,  the  cordial  kindness  of 
its  people  are  not  soon  forgotten.  Tasmanians  seem  to  have 
obtained  the  idea  that  there  are  better  motives  for  livino;  than 
selfishness.  My  friends  in  that  country  never  tired  in  their 
endeavors  to  minister  to  the  comfort  and  pleasure  of  their  very 
orateful  visitor. 


Truganim,  Last  of  .the  Tasmanians. 


A  GENERAL  VIEW. 


7^ 

TIE  aboriainals  of  Australia,  like  those  of  Tasmania, 


and  indeed  of  every  other  country  of  modern  discov- 
ery, are  vanishing.  They  are  for  the  most  part  gath- 
ered on  reservations  under  government  protection 
and  care.  Their  color  is  black,  though  they  are  distinct  from  the 
African  races.  In  a  general  sense  they  are  perhaps  rightfully 
regarded  as  being  very  much  degraded;  yet  in  some  respects 
they  show  a  remarkable  degree  of  shrewdness  and  sagacity. 
The  men  of  these  tribes  are  employed  by  the  detective  service 
as  "black-trackers,"  because  they  can  discover  and  follow  a 
trail  where  a  white  man  would  never  succeed.  The  efforts  to 
educate  and  Christianize  them  have  been  crowned  with  but  a 
small  degree  of  success.  They  do  not  seem,  however,  to  be 
any  more  averse  to  receiving  evil  than  other  savaije  races. 
They  have  made  some  efforts  to  repel  the  encroachment  of 
the  white  men  into  their  country,  and  in  doing  so  have  mani- 
fested ingenious  cruelty.  But  their  weapons  and  methods 
have  been  utterly  futile  before  the  arms  and  power  of  the 
Europeans.  They  have  very  justly  l)ecome  fiimous  for  their 
use  of  the  boomerang.  This  implement  of  war  is  a  thin, 
slightly  crooked  blade  of  hard  wood,  which  is  thrown  in  a  man- 
ner wholly  inexplicable,  ])ut  ))y  wliich  it  is  made  to  do  its  in- 
tended work,  and  then  return  to  tlie  thrower.  Those  who  are 
expert  in  the  art  can  hurl  it  forty  yards  and  back  again  with  an 
accuracy  that  is  surprising.  Their  other  weapons  consist  of 
the  "  waddy,"  or  war  club,  and  a  wooden  spear.     For  habita- 

[135] 


NATIVES.  137 

tions  they  have  only  broad  pieces  of  bark  set  up  against  a  pole. 
In  their  native  state  they  subsist  on  the  most  disgusting  ob- 
jects, such  as  snakes  and  other  reptiles,  worms  and  beetles,  or 
apparently  anything  upon  which  they  can  feed.  Opossums 
and  kangaroos,  as  well  as  fish  and  edible  roots  are  also  eaten, 
but  the  former  articles  are  by  no  means  objected  to,  espe- 
cially because  they  are  most  easily  obtained. 

One  fact  that  encourages  and  almost  compels  them  to  this 
degrading  diet  is  that  Australia  produces  indigenously  hardly 
any  fruits  or  nuts  that  are  edible.  This  seems  not  a  little 
strange  when  we  consider  its  proximity  to  the  islands  which 
are  covered  with  cocoa,  banana,  and  other  nutritious  food  prod- 
ucts, planted  and  grown  by  nature  herself.  So  f^ir  as  I  know, 
about  the  only  exception  to  this  statement  is  the  so-called  wild 
cherry,  which  grows  on  a  species  of  ti-tree.  It  is  about  half 
as  large  as  the  ordinary  red  currant.  First  on  the  stem  comes 
the  little  stone,  then  back  of  that,  and  almost  distinct  from  it, 
is  a  little  mass  of  rather  pleasant-tasting  pulp.  Thus  it  will  be 
seen  that  the  wretched  natives  have  a  hard  chance  for  life, 
and  we  do  not  wonder  that  their  diet  should  include  things 
against  which  our  appetites  revolt. 

But  although  nature  does  not  supply  the  plants,  she  is 
ready  to  support  that  which  men  may  plant ;  so  now  fruits  of 
all  kinds  may  be  obtained  in  the  markets  of  the  large  cities. 
Victoria  Market,  in  the  heart  of  Melbourne,  is  one  of  the 
sights.  It  is  open  two  mornings  of  each  week.  It  covers  two 
blocks,  and  its  buildings  consist  mostly  of  long  rows  of  sheds 
far  enough  apart  to  allow  horses  and  carts  to  be  backed  up  to 
a  low  platform  on  either  side.  Produce  wagons  begin  to  ar- 
rive the  previous  evening,  for  some  come  long  distances.  All 
night  they  are  coming  in,  and  at  an  early  hour  the  sale  begins 
at  a  given  signal.  By  six  o'clock  the  streets  are  a  surging 
mass  of  humanity. 


138  -1    GENERAL    VIEW. 

Winter  is,  in  some  respects,  the  most  interesting  of  the 
seasons.  It  is  then  that  cattle  enjoy  a  rich  pasture.  The  fre- 
quent rains  and  cool  weather  encourage  the  growth  of  the 
grass,  and  the  paddocks  are  covered  with  living  green.  The 
more  hardy  vegetahles  flourish  then,  as  well  as  the  different 
varieties  of  flowers.  The  calla  lily,  so  carefully  reared  and 
watched  in  our  Northern  cities  as  a  house-plant,  grows  rank 
and  blooms  by  the  thousand  in  the  hedges.  Trellises  of  bright- 
hued  ceraniums  growing  over  fences  or  walls,  are  to  be  seen 
on  every  hand. 

The  government  of  the  Australian  colonies  is  vested  in  the 
people.  In  making  their  own  laws,  they  are  restricted  only 
by  the  requirement  that  no  enactment  shall  be  inimical  to  the 
constitution  or  the  interests  of  Great  Britain.  The  only  rep- 
resentative of  the  home  o'overnment  in  the  colonies  is  the  gov- 
ernor,  whose  official  capacity  is  supposed  to  be  executive. 
The  laws  must  receive  his  signature  ;  but  in  a  practical  way  it 
would  be  difficult  to  define  his  functions,  unless  it  be  that  it  is 
essential  to  have  a  figure-head  to  represent  royality.  The  gov- 
ernors are  the  appointees  of  the  crown,  though  their  salaries 
are  paid  by  the  colonies.  The  colonial  parliaments  are  elected 
by  the  people,  and  consist  of  two  houses, —  the  Legislative 
Council,  or  upper  house,  corresponding  to  the  Senate  of  the 
United  States ;  and  the  Legislative  Assembly,  or  lower  house. 
The  governor  appoints  the  cabinet,  or  delegates  the  power  to 
appoint  to  the  political  leader  of  the  prevailing  party,  who 
almost  universally  appoints  himself  premier,  and  thereby  be- 
comes the  real  head  of  the  government. 

In  Australia  the  authority  of  the  government  includes  the 
control  of  the  police,  the  telegraph,  the  railways,  and  the 
public  schools.  Many  a  one  who  in  the  LTnited  States  has 
longed  for  a  government  railway  system,  has  been  effectually 
cured  by  a  short  experience  in  some  country  where  the  rail- 


CHURCH  AND   STATE.  130 

ways  are  managed  by  the  government.  When  run  by  the  stiff 
machinery  of  the  hiw,  the  railway  is  a  cumbersome,  red-tape, 
lifeless  affair  without  competition  or  ambition.  Independent 
and  utterly  heartless,  it  behaves  toward  all  its  patrons  in  an 
if-you-don't-like-it-o'o-afoot  sort  of  way  that  is  sometimes  ex- 
ceedingly  trying  to  the  nerves  and  patience  of  people  who  are 
accustomed  to  having  every  wish  gratified  by  obliging  railway 
companies  that  are  anxious  to  secure  their  patronage.  There 
are  over  ten  thousand  miles  of  railway  in  Australia. 

Generally  speaking,  there  has  been  an  effort  to  separate 
church  and  state  in  the  colonial  governments,  but  at  the  pres- 
ent time  there  is  a  tendency  on  the  part  of  quite  a  large  body 
of  church  people  to  unite  them  in  a  measure  at  least, —  not  by 
way  of  establishing  some  particular  church,  but  by  establishing 
certain  principles  upon  which  most  of  the  churches  can  unite 
in  asking  the  state  to  enforce.  In  other  words,  they  have 
imbibed  the  prevailing  spirit  that  the  church  should  broaden 
its  sphere  of  operations,  and  instead  of  giving  so  much  atten- 
tion to  personal  religion  and  the  salvation  of  individuals,  should 
seek  to  Christianize  the  nation,  and  thus  bring  in  the  reign  of 
the  gospel. 

To  this  end  they  are  seeking  to  place  public  morals  under 
the  espionage  of  the  government,  and  by  civil  power  to  build 
up  in  earthly  kingdoms  the  kingdom  of  Christ.  One  of  the 
steps  by  which  this  is  to  be  brought  about  is  the  introduction 
of  the  Bible  and  religious  training  into  public  schools.  An- 
other is  by  a  rigid  and  religious  observance  of  Sunday.  The 
position  which  candidates  for  Parliament  occupy  on  these  ques- 
tions is  becoming  a  leading  condition  of  their  acceptability  with 
those  voters  who  favor  this  view ;  and  vigorous  efforts  are  be- 
ing made  by  religious  societies  to  secure  such  laws  as  will  give 
them  the  powder  they  desire.  In  behalf  of  the  cause  of  Sunday 
observance,  it   has   been    discovered    that  there  is  a  statute, 


[140] 


Launceston, 


CHURCH  AXD    STATE.  141 

enacted  in  the  time  of  Charles  II,  which  strictly  enforces  this 
religious  ordinance,  and  it  has  recently  been  employed  in  the 
absence  of  more  modern  enactments. 

It  requires  no  very  great  degree  of  astuteness  to  perceive 
in  this  movement  the  same  kind  of  zeal  and  the  same  tendency 
to  religious  persecution  that  characterized  the  course  of  the 
church  in  the  Dark  Ages,  when  men  were  burned  at  the  stake 
or  put  on  the  rack  because  they  did  not  conform  to  the  prevail- 
ing ideas  on  religious  questions.  Underlying  the  whole  under- 
taking is  the  great  mistake  that  men  can  be  compelled  to 
become  good  ;  and  that  if  moral  suasion  is  not  sufficient  to  pro- 
duce the  desired  change  in  their  lives,  then  the  law  should  be 
invoked  to  compel  them  to  do  as  the  majority  think  they  ought 
to  do.  It  is  not,  of  course,  in  our  province  to  discuss  the  ques- 
tion of  religious  liberty,  though  in  every  part  of  the  civilized 
world  we  meet  it  at  the  present  time.  Russia  is  wholly  com- 
mitted to  the  policy  of  religious  domination  by  the  state,  but 
Christendom  abominates  her  course.  It  is  therefore  sad  to  see 
such  countries  as  Australia  and  the  United  States  stepping 
rapidly  into  the  same  paths  of  darkness.  The  truth  is,  that  if 
Sunday  observance  rested  upon  the  far  more  important  support 
of  unquestionable  scriptural  precept  or  example,  there  would 
be  no  effort  nor  any  call  for  an  effort  of  this  kind.  It  is  error 
only  that  needs  to  be  bolstered  up  by  such  measures. 

The  ties  of  consanguinity  and  mutual  interest  are  so  strong 
between  these  colonies  that  the  stranger  is  astonished  to  find 
that  they  are  separated  from  each  other  by  customs  barriers ; 
but  such  is  the  case.  Passing  from  Sydney  to  Melbourne,  or 
from  Melbourne  to  Adelaide,  or  to  Tasmania,  or  vice  versa, 
trunks  and  traveling-bags  must  be  overhauled,  very  much  to 
the  disgust  of  the  innocent  traveler. 

Some  very  annoying  instances  of  customs  interference  came 
to  our  notice.     In  one  case  a  Methodist  minister,  ver}^  poor  of 


142 


A    GENERAL    VIEW. 


course,  was  transfeiTed  by  his  conference  from  Victoria  to  South 
Australia,  and  was  innocently  passing  o\er  the  line  with  most 
of  his  effects  in  a  one-horse  wagon,  not  dreaming  that  the  law 
would  take  cognizance  of  such  an  insignificant  moA'e  as  his. 
13ut  suddenly  he  found  himself  in  the  hands  of  the  officers, 
who  declared  his  outfit  contraband.  He  was  glad  to  get  off'  by 
leaving  his  wagon  in  the  hands  of  the  law ;  and  to  have  the 
privilege  of  riding  his  forlorn  old  horse  to  his  new  appointment. 
The  whole  arrangement  is  a  vexatious  hindrance  to  traveling 
as  well  as  to  business  of  all  kinds ;  for  \vhat  one  colony  gains 
over  another  by  way  of  duties  it  pays  out  with  the  other  hand 
in  charges  on  other  articles.  The  system  is  illustrative  of  the 
protective  policy  thoroughly  carried  out.  So  long  as  there 
were  some  colonies  adhering  to  free-trade,  it  was  all  very  well 
for  the  protective  ones,  but  since  all  have  joined  in  taxing  each 
other,  it  amounts  to  a  silly  farce. 


KixG  Billy. 


LEAVING  AUSTRALIA. 


ATURiVLLY  we  are  reluctant  to  take  leave  of  those 
places  which  dwell  in  our  memories  Avith  the  most 
pleasant  associations.  But  reluctant  or  not,  the  time 
has  come  for  us  to  turn  our  attention  to  other  scenes. 
We  bade  good-by  to  the  kindest  of  friends  in  Melbourne,  leav- 
ing by  express-train  for  iidehiide,  to  which  port  the  ship  had 
already  proceeded.  It  was  spring-time,  and  the  bright-colored 
flowers  which  in  places  lined  the  railway  made  permanent  the 
pleasant  impressions  already  received  of  the  country.  After  a 
comfortable  night's  ride,  w^e  crossed  the  Murray  Ri^er  in  the 
early  morning,  from  wdiich  point  the  line  ascends  the  range  of 
hills  lying  between  the  river  and  the  waters  near  which  Ade- 
laide is  situated,  as  previously  described.  When  the  western 
summit  is  reached,  a  scene  of  beauty  is  presented  from  the 
sides  of  Mount  Lofty. 

After  a  day  and  a  night  spent  w^ith  friends  in  Adelaide,  the 
steam-lighter  took  us  and  our  belongings  close  to  the  black 
sides  of  the  huge  P.  and  0.  steamer  '*  Massilia,"  and  in  a  few 
hours  we  were  out  upon  the  '*  vasty  deep."  The  afternoon  being 
pleasant,  our  hopes  were  buoyant  that  Neptune  would  kindly 
give  us  a  gentle  start,  at  least  until  we  had  time  to  get  our 
sea-legs.  But  we  hoped  in  vain,  for  during  the  next  four  days 
and  nights  old  ocean  showed  us  what  it  could  do  on  the  Aus- 
tralian Bight.  But  the  ship  was  as  staunch  and  steady  as  it 
was  possible  for  a  floating  thing  to  be  under  such  circum- 
stances.    We  came  to  anchor  in  the  port  of  Albany  during  the 

[143] 


f " 


^ 


J2 


ON   THE  INDIAN  OCEAN.  14 5 

night,  and  left  it  a  few  honrs  later.  The  next  morning,  at 
daylight,  a  few  headlands  were  all  that  remained  to  onr  sight 
of  Anstnilia. 

The  next  thing  vvas  to  cultivate  an  acquaintance  with  our 
fellow-passengers.  This  is  not  usually  a  difficult  task.  No 
formal  introductions  are  necessary ;  generally  a  very  small  in- 
cident, perhaps  a  little  civility,  will  sufficiently  open  the  way. 
Among  those  on  board  were  several  who  were  on  their  way  to 
India,  having  spent  their  vacation  in  the  colonies.  It  was  par- 
ticularly gratifying  to  meet  these,  as  India  was  the  country  to 
which  we  were  now  bound. 

It  w^as  ten  days  before  we  saw  land  again,  except  a  little 
dot  of  an  island  not  on  our  maps,  where  a  lone  Scotchman  lives. 
Our  course  was  northwest,  through  the  midst  of  the  Indian 
Ocean.  During  this  time  we  scarcely  saw  the  sun,  and  yet 
the  weather  was  not  ver}^  stormy.  We  occasionally  met  ves- 
sels going  toward  Australia,  and  one  day  sailed  past  the  Ger- 
man steamer  "  Ilohenzollern,"  going  in  the  same  direction. 
Outstripping  another  vessel  is  one  of  the  pleasantest  experi- 
ences to  selfish  human  nature  that  ocean  travel  furnishes.  It 
always  seems  to  be  gratifying  to  find  some  one  who  is  not  so 
well  off  as  ourselves. 

The  time  on  board  was  spent  in  the  usual  way, —  reading, 
writing,  visiting,  walking  the  deck,  eating  and  sleeping.  A 
fine  sea-water  bath  in  the  morning,  and  a  cup  of  coffee  Avith  bis- 
cuits for  those  who  wish  them,  are  the  first  thing  on  the  day's 
programme;  then  a  brisk  walk  on  the  deck;  breakfjist  at  eight; 
reading,  quoit-pitching,  or  perhaps  a  nap,  with  sundry  chats, 
fill  the  time  till  the  lunch  at  one  o'clock  At  noon  the  result 
of  the  daily  reckoning,  wdiich  gives  the  distance  run  in  the  pre- 
vious twenty-four  hours,  is  posted  in  the  main  gangway,  and  is 
an  event  of  interest.     At  five  or  six  o'clock  dinner  is  served, 

and  tea  in  the  evening,  with  supper  still  hiter  for  those  who 
10 


14(1  LEAVING   AUSTRALIA. 

wish.  Liiilit  limclies  in  the  forenoan  ami  afternoon  fill  up  the 
gaps,  so  tliat  eating  becomes  the  cliief  end  of  life  on  shipboard. 
We  (lid  not  adhere  to  the  popular  [)]ogramme,  however,  in 
every  instance.  Tea  and  coffee  have  no  part  in  the  dietary  of 
those  who  have  the  best  regard  for  health  ;  and  eating  continu- 
ously cannot  be  regarded  any  more  favorably.  Besides,  those 
who  desire  to  make  a  good  use  of  time  on  shipboard  may  do  so, 
when  not  sick,  if  they  provide  themselves  with  good  books  and 
writing  materials. 

By  a  certain  and,  unfortunately,  quite  a  large  class  of  men- 
passensrers,  most  of  the  time  is  consumed  in  smokinii",  drinkino;, 
and  oamblino-.  Professional  gamblers  traversin2r  the  sea  for 
the  pur})ose  of  fleecing  unwary  travelers,  easily  gain  the  confi- 
dence of  their  victims  by  means  of  the  close  companionship 
into  which  people  are  thrown  on  shipboard.  Many  an  unso- 
phisticated youth,  robbed  of  every  cent  he  has,  is  landed  u})on 
an  unknown  shore  to  ])efiin  life  in  a  forlorn  condition  ;  and 
he  often  does  it  with  some  desperate  deed.  Besides  games  of 
cards,  other  methods  of  gambling  are  resorted  to  in  order  to 
vary  the  amusement  (?).  Betting  on  the  distance  that  the 
vessel  will  run  during  the  next  twenty-four  hours,  on  the  time 
of  her  arrival,  or  in  fact  on  any  slight  pretext,  is  indulged  in 
for  this  most  wretched  way  of  disposing  of  money. 

Speaking  ol'  squandering  money,  we  find  that  this  is  as 
easily  done  upon  the  ocean  as  in  any  other  place.  Here  is  a 
small  army  of  stewards  and  waiters  upon  whom  the  passengers 
are  dependent  for  food  and  attention.  They  receive  but  small 
pay  from  their  employers,  with  the  understanding  that  they 
will  accept  "tips"  or  presents  from  the  passengers.  As  a 
matter  of  course,  their  principal  interest  in  the  passenger  is 
proportionate  to  the  sum  which  they  receive  or  expect  to  re- 
ceive from  him.  It  accordingly  stands  the  traveler  in  hand  to 
place  himself  on  good  terms  with  his  table  and  bedroom  stew- 


TIPPING.  117 

ards,  and  with  as  many  others  as  he  finds  liimself  dependent 
upon.  The  sum  required  by  each  one  is  not  great.  Gener- 
all3%  for  a  trip  across  the  Athmtic  it  is  from  fifty  cents  in  tlie 
second  class,  to  three  or  four  dollars  in  the  first  saloon,  to  each 
steward  who  serves  you.  The  same  table  and  state-room  stew- 
ard attends  the  passenger  during  the  voyage. 

While  it  is  true  that  the  tipping  system  is  almost  an  intol- 
erable bore  by  sea  and  by  land,  still  a  person  who  does  not 
recognize  it  is  considered  ver}""  mean  ;  and  when  we  consider 
the  poor  men  who  work  so  hard  for  oar  comfort,  and  have  to 
depend  largely  upon  our  generosity  for  their  support,  we  are 
apt  to  violate  our  sense  of  right  by  giving  the  expected  amount 
rather  than  to  withhold  it.  Not  only  at  sea  is  this  practice 
prevalent,  but  everywhere  except  in  America  ;  and  it  is  l)e- 
coming  customary  here.  When  traveling,  one  is  expected  to 
keep  up  a  continual  stream  of  giving  and  ti})})ing.  In  many 
places  on  the  Continent  no  wages  are  paid  to  waiters  in  hotels 
and  restaurants  ;  and  in  Sweden,  we  Avere  told,  girls  actually 
pay  for  the  privilege  of  serving  in  fashionable  hotels.  But  in 
India,  of  all  places  on  earth,  the  hacJcsheesh  must  flow  in  a  per- 
petual stream.  Bat  being  already  near  to  tljat  country,  we 
shall  have  a  chance  to  learn  these  things  by  experience;  let 
us  therefore  not  anticipate. 


CEYLON. 


HEN  land  finally  came  in  sight,  it  was  greeted  with 
unusual  pleasure ;  for  in  these  days  of  rapid  tran- 
sit, it  is  not  very  usual,  even  on  long  voyages,  to 
be  out  of  sight  of  terra  firma  for  ten  days.  The 
first  land  we  saw  was  the  south  end  of  the  island  of  Ceylon. 
The  sun  having  been  invisible  for  some  days,  the  officers  were 
unable  to  get  satisfactory  reckonings.  The  captain  claimed 
that  we  had  been  under  the  influence  of  a  strong  current  that 
had  diverted  the  ship  slightly,  and  so,  instead  of  making  the 
southwest  corner  of  the  island,  we  were  nearer  the  southeast- 
ern extremity;  consequently,  for  the  most  of  the  day  we  sailed 
along  the  coast  toward  the  harbor  of  Colombo.  It  proved  to 
be  a  pleasant  opportunity,  for  with  the  aid  of  glasses  we 
watched  the  changing  landscape  of  that  land  where,  according 
to  the  old  hymn,  "every  prospect  pleases."  Luxuriant  groves 
of  cocoa  palms  grew  to  the  waters'  edge,  native  villages  and 
tea  plantations  were  here  and  there ;  while  frequently  the 
white  towers  of  a  Buddhist  shrine,  the  high  dome  of  a  temple, 
or  the  minarets  of  a  Mohammedan  mosque  gave  us  our  first 
glimpses  of  tangible  heathenism.  Just  at  nightfall  we  rounded 
the  light-house  which  stands  at  the  outer  extremity  of  the  ex- 
tensive breakwater  that  forms  the  harbor  of  Colombo,  one  of 
the  most  important  ports  of  the  equatorial  world.  Slowly  our 
massive  ship  made  its  way  into  the  haven  among  the  other 
shipping ;  and  when  we  had  nearly  lost  our  motion,  the  order 
to  "  let  go  the  starboard  anchor,"  and  then  to  "  let  go  the  port 

•  [ 148  J 


COLOMBO.  149 

anchor,"  caused  a  clanking  of  chains,  a  rush  of  capstans,  two 
distinct  plunges  in  the  water;  and  our  vessel  was  at  rest. 

Here  we  are  in  a  panopticon  and  pandemonium  of  new  and 
strange  sights  and  sounds  ;  and  what  shall  we  look  at  or  lis.ten 
to  first  ?  Well,  the  first  thing  to  be  done  is  to  find  out  if  the 
steamer  from  London  for  Calcutta  has  arrived,  or  has  passed, 
as  she  generally  does  just  before  the  arrival  of  the  Australian 
boat.  To  our  pleasant  surprise,  it  is  ascertained  that  neither 
has  happened ;  for  after  starting  from  London,  the  boat  had  a 
collision  in  the  Channel,  and  was  obliged  to  |)ut  back.  Conse- 
quently she  is  two  days  late,  and  we  shall  have  the  most  of 
that  time  in  Colombo.  It  is  too  late  to  think  of  ffoing  ashore 
to-night,  and  the  steamer  will  not  begin  coaling  before  morning, 
so  we  are  pleased  with  the  prospect  of  a  quiet  night  in  the  still 
water  of  the  harbor. 

But  what  are  those  dark-skinned,  nearly  naked  bipeds  that 
come  scrambling  up  the  ship's  side  like  monkeys,  and  swarm 
the  deck  with  loud  vociferations?  They  are  real, genuine, live 
heathen  !  Thus  at  least  we  are  apt  to  conclude  ;  but,  after  all, 
we  have  as  yet  no  very  good  ground  for  so  deciding,  except  it 
be  the  scarcity  of  their  wardrobe.  It  is  true  they  have  not 
more  than  a  yard  of  cloth  upon  them,  and  some  of  them  but  a 
fraction  of  that  amount.  But  it  serves  the  purpose,  and  sup- 
plies the  demands  of  modesty  so  far  as  their  tastes  require ; 
and,  strange  to  relate,  within  a  few  minutes  we  find  that  our 
revulsion  has  fled,  and  we  have  accepted  the  situation,  so  that 
henceforth  there  is  no  squeamishness  upon  our  part  toward  them 
on  that  score.  As  regards  their  actions,  they  are  really  no 
worse  than  those  of  a  crowd  of  bus  and  hack  drivers  are  in  our 
Christianized  (?)  countr}'.  They  are  simply  trying  to  induce 
the  passengers  who  are  going  ashore  to  patronize  their  boats, 
that  they  may  earn  a  few  cents  (yes,  cents  in  Ceylon)  with 
which  to  buy  food  for  their  families.     It  is  true  they  nag  and 


[150] 


Point  de  Galle. 


THE  HARBOR.  151 

quarrel  and  pull  and  coax  till  your  patience  is  exhausted,  even 

after  you   have   signified   that  you  are  not  going  ashore,  and 

would  not  be  taken  there  for  anything.     The  sailors  soon  weary 

of   their  outcry,  and  seek  to  drive  them  ofi"  with  kicks  and 

cuffs ;  but  it  is  slow  work,  though  an  occasional  splash  in  the 

water  proves  that  a  few,  more  demonstrative   than   discreet, 

have  been  put  overboard  head  foremost  in  a  shorter  time  than 

* 
it   took   them   to   scramble   up.      Fruit  and   trinkets  are   also 

rushed  aboard  for  the  purpose  of  traffic,  and  sales  are  urged 

with  a  persistency  that  is  surprising  as  well  as  disagreeable. 

After  this  short  introduction,  we  seek  rest  in  the  quiet 
state-room,  where  none  molest,  to  plan  and  dream  for  the  mor- 
row. The  morning  comes  full  soon  enough,  and  in  these 
tropical  regions  that  is  the  most  favorable  part  of  the  day. 
Whatever  failings  may  be  truthfully  attribnted  to  the  people 
of  these  countries,  they  should  never  be  accused  of  wasting 
their  time  in  bed  in  the  morning.  We  were  on  deck  betimes, 
but  the  natives  were  there  before  us,  and  the  time  till  break- 
fast was  spent  in  making  their  acquaintance,  and  taking  in  the 
surroundings. 

The  harbor  naturally  deserves  our  first  attention.  This  is 
of  comparatively  recent  establishment,  though  the  city  itself  is 
ancient.  Up  to  about  1880,  Point  de  Galle,  situated  on  the 
coast  about  fifty  miles  south  of  Colombo,  was  the  principal 
port,  but  it  stands  deserted  now.  Its  harbor  was  incommo- 
dious, besides  being  quite  dangerous  of  entrance.  In  1875  the 
government  undertook  the  construction  of  the  most  extensive 
breakwater  in  the  world.  There  is  no  natural  harbor  at  Co- 
lombo, though  an  indenture  of  the  coast  furnishes  a  partial 
protection  from  the  north  ;  but  by  fiir  the  most  violent  winds 
in  these  regions  are  the  southwest  monsoons,  which  blow  with 
regularity  and  sometimes  with  great  force  through  several 
months  of  the  summer.     It  was  necessary  to  give  the  shipping 


152  CEYLON. 

a  protection  from  the  tremendous  breakers  which  these  winds 
roll  up  in  their  course  across  the  Indian  Ocean.  To  do  this  a 
stone  wall  was  built  out  into  the  sea  for  a  distance  of  one  mile, 
at  a  cost  of  $3,5U0,000.  It  is  composed  of  massive  blocks  of 
concrete,  so  firmly  laid  that  they  resist  unshaken  the  mighty 
attacks  of  wind  and  waves.  So  that  now,  except  in  the  case 
of  west  or  northwest  winds,  the  harbor  is  safe. 

Colombo  is  noted  chiefly  for  being  a  port  of  call  and  a  coal- 
ing station.  Situated  at  the  very  center  of  the  commerce  of 
the  Orient,  it  is  a  crossing  for  several  important  lines  of  steam- 
ships. It  is  visited  frequently  and  regularly  by  nearly  all  the 
vessels  doino-  business  in  those  waters.  On  the  morning  after 
our  arrival  the  harbor  presented  a  most  interesting  sight. 
There  were  six  P.  and  0.  steamships  at  anchor,  besides  nu- 
merous others  of  various  lines.  P.  and  0.  is  a  common 
designation  used  for  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental  Steamship 
Company,  of  London.  There  was  a  ship  from  Bombay  bound 
to  China,  another  from  London  to  Calcutta,  ours  from  Australia 
to  London,  a  fourth  from  Calcutta  to  London,  still  another  go- 
ing from  China  to  Bombay,  and  the  sixth  from  China  to  Lon- 
don. It  was  an  unusual  thing  for  them  to  meet  in  this  way, 
but  slight  accidents  had  detained  three  of  them,  and  the  two 
from  China  were  running  in  the  place  of  the  "  Bokhara," 
which  had  recently  been  lost  in  a  typhoon  in  the  China  Sea, 
with  one  hundred  and  seventy  souls  on  board.  We  here  ob- 
tained our  first  news  of  this  sad  catastrophe,  which  was  made 
sadder  to  us  because  so  many  of  our  officers  and  crew  had 
friends  on  the  ill-fated  ship. 

North  of  the  city  is  a  rocky  promontory,  which  in  centu- 
ries past  served  as  a  landmark  to  the  Dutch  and  Portuguese 
voyagers.  Facing  the  water  stand  some  massive  buildings, 
giving  the  place  a  fine  appearance  from  the  decks.     In  the  dim 


GOING  ASHORE.  153 

distance  are  lofty  mountain  tops,  while  on  every  hand  luxuri- 
ant verdure  abounds. 

But  we  are  in  haste  to  get  ashore,  though  our  interest  in 
this  matter  is  not  half  so  great  as  that  of  the  crowd  of  native 
boatmen,  who  from  our  first  appearance  on  deck  have  kept  up 
a  continuous  wrangle  as  to  who  should  have  a  chance  to  do  the 
rowing.  Notwithstanding  this  had  been  settled  more  than 
two  hours  before,  it  did  not  relieve  the  pressure,  for  the  man 
to  whom  the  job  was  promised  was  in  constant  anxiety  lest 
some  one  should  underbid  him,  and  carry  oft'  the  prize.  I  was 
not  to  be  corrupted  though,  and  repeatedly  assured  him  that  I 
should  stand  bv  mv  baroain. 

Every  harbor  has  a  paddle  boat  or  rowing  craft  peculiar 
to  itself.  I  do  not  know  what  they  call  those  in  Colombo,  but 
they  seem  to  be  founded  on  a  dug-out  log.  with  sides  built  up 
so  that  when  a  passenger  sits  on  a  seat  he  has  ample  room  to 
danole  his  feet.     But  it  is  so  narrow  that  but  one  can  sit  on  a 

c 

seat ;  and  if  he  were  very  large,  he  would  hang  over  the  sides. 
The  ends  of  this  craft  are  sharp,  and  under  the  force  of  two 
or  three  paddles  it  makes  rapid  time.  Such  a  narrow,  top- 
heavy  vessel  would  quickly  turn  over  but  for  an  out-rigger  in 
the  form  of  a  small  log  attached  to  long  arms,  which  runs 
through  the  water  alongside.  This  out-rigger  is  sufficiently 
heavy  to  prevent  the  boat  from  capsizing,  and  is  sharpened  at 
either  end  so  that  it  runs  easily.  These  boats  are  also  used 
for  fishing  purposes,  and  we  saw  them  fifteen  miles  or  more  out 
at  sea  on  billows  of  considerable  mairnitude.  On  the  ocean 
they  are  driven  by  a  sail.  They  carry  a  large  sail,  and  run 
very  close  to  the  wdnd ;  and  when  it  is  desirable  to  give 
them  more  wind  than  they  could  carry  without  capsizing,  men 
crawl  out  along  the  arms  and  stand  upon  the  out-rigger,  while 
their  craft  flies  before  the  breeze,  and  their  little  support  is 


O 

o 
o 


a 


a 


X! 


A   PER  SOX  OF  DISTINCTION.  .        155 

dashed  through  the  waves,  which  completely  envelop  the  dar- 
ing fisherman.  The  speed  these  boats  make  under  these  cir- 
cumstances is  surprising,  while  the  indifference  of  the  natives 
to  the  apparent  danger  goes  to  show  that  they  are  as  much  at 
home  in  the  water  as  on  the  land.  Indeed,  this  is  the  case 
with  all  the  natives  who  liva  on  islands  in  warm  climates  ; 
water  is  not  to  them  an  unnatural  element. 

Upon  landing,  I  was  met  at  the  customs  sheds  by  a  crowd 
of  natives,  every  one  of  whom  manifested  the  greatest  interest 
in  my  welfare.  Several,  more  bold  than  the  rest,  greeted  me 
as  an  old  friend,  in  such  lanoruaoe  as  thev  could  command, 
stating  that  they  knew  me  when  I  was  there  before,  and  re- 
membered me  well !  As  I  marched  up  the  street,  I  might 
have  been  taken  for  an  individual  of  no  small  distinction,  so 
great  was  the  throng  that  pressed  around  me.  It  was  amus- 
ing at  first,  but  soon  became  tiresome.  The  only  way  to  get 
rid  of  the  parasites  was  to  ignore  them  entirely,  though  some 
of  them  had  to  be  told  to  '*  be  off"  in  a  tone  that  betokened  no 
weakness  of  purpose  if  they  failed  to  do  so.  Occasionally  an 
appeal  to  a  policeman  was  necessary.  The  older  beggars  soon 
gave  it  up,  and  went  to  look  for  another  arrival,  but  several 
naked  youngsters  ran  along  before  me,  rubbing  their  stomachs 
and  crying,  "  Me  hungry,  me  no  food,  no  fadder,  no  mudder ; 
me  hungry.'' 

The  streets  in  the  modern  part  of  the  town  are  broad  and 
shady.  Colombo  contains  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  thou- 
sand inhabitants.  The  island  has  a  population  of  three  million 
and  an  area  of  twenty-five  thousand  square  miles.  The  south- 
ern end  of  Ceylon  is  but  six  degrees  north  of  the  equator,  so 
that  there  is  but  little  variation  in  the  climate,  which  generally 
maintains  an  annual  average  temperature  of  eighty  degrees,  or 
sometimes  a  little  higher.  The  rainfall  is  abundant,  especially 
in  the  monsoon  season  when,  as  we  sometimes  say,  it  does  not 


156  CEYLQK 

rain,  but  pours.  Vegetation  flourishes  in  great  luxuriance. 
The  cocoa  palm  and  other  tropical  trees  grow  naturally  wher- 
ever an  opportunity  is  given. 

The  Oriental  Hotel,  on  the  water-front,  is  a  fine  building 
and  a  sumptuous  hostelry.  Besides  this  one,  there  are  two  or 
three  other  good  hotels  built  and  managed  by  Europeans  for 
travelers  by  sea.  After  a  visit  to  the  post-office,  attention  was 
attracted  to  the  neat  little  carriages  backed  up  against  the 
curbstone.  They  were  in  the  form  of  light  carts  with  springs, 
hooded,  cushioned,  and  comfortably  inviting.  Their  motive 
power  was  a  man,  who,  placing  himself  between  the  shafts  and 
grasping  one  in  each  hand,  would  trot  off  with  the  agility  of  a 
horse,  in  fact,  with  much  more  celerity  than  the  poor  specimens 
of  horse-flesh  we  saw  around  us.  These  were  jinrikishas,  and 
though  totally  opposed  to  the  idea  of  one  man  s  riding  another, 
curiosity  and  the  urgent  solicitude  of  the  human  horses  pre- 
vailed upon  me  to  have  one  trip.  It  was  a  novel  experience, 
and  not  unpleasant,  except  for  the  sight  of  the  nearly  naked 
fellow  who  was  tugging  in  the  shafts  while  streams  of  sweat 
coursed  down  his  person.  Sut  there  was  no  bother  with  whip 
or  reins,  though  I  did  long  for  the  latter,  since  it  was  impossi- 
ble to  talk  with  the  man,  as  it  would  have  been  with  the  ordi- 
nary horse.  So  he  was  allowed  to  take  his  course.  He  chose 
a  very  interesting  one  indeed,  so  that  it  was  a  pleasure  to  pay 
him  his  small  fee  when  the  journey  ended  where  it  began. 
The  services  of  a  competent  guide  and  a  horse  were  obtained 
with  which  to  visit  more  remote  parts  of  the  city. 


BUDDHISM 


ERE  we  are  to  obtain  our  only  view  of  Buddhism; 
for  thouoli  this  relioion  had  its  birth  in  India,  it  has 
been  very  nearly  expelled  from  the  land  of  its  na- 
tivity, the  vestiges  of  a  few  relies  only  remaining. 
But  here  in  Ceylon  it  has  obtained  a  firm  footing.  Of  the 
population  of  the  island  more  than  one  half  are  followers  of 
Buddha.  Half  a  million  are  Hindus,  two  hundred  thousand 
are  Mohammedans,  and  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  profess 
to  be  Christians.  The  latter  are  mostly  the  result  of  the  la- 
bors of  the  Roman  Catholic  missionaries,  and  it  is  perfectly 
safe  to  say  that  this  class  do  nothing  more  than  profess  Chris- 
tianity, and  in  many  cases  do  even  that  very  ftiintly.  In  mak- 
ing the  transfer  from  Buddhism  to  the  Catholic  Church,  the 
individual  need  not  revolutionize  his  sentiments  or  practice  to 
any  perceptible  extent.  As  the  church  gains  influence,  she  is 
able  to  hold  out  inducements  of  a  temporal  nature;  and  this, 
to  the  poor  wretches  who  struggle  with  hunger  and  destitution 
for  the  merest  livelihood,  is  no  small  temptation.  The  scru- 
ples which  they  may  have  upon  the  point  of  abandoning  the  re- 
ligion of  their  fathers  are  overcome  by  the  thought  that  there 
is  no  practical  dilTerence  between  this  and  that  required  in 
their  relntions  to  Buddha.  As  this  is  our  first,  and  will  be  our 
last,  look  at  Buddhism,  a  brief  sketch  of  the  system  may  be  in 
place  here. 

"  Buddha"  is  an  ascriptive  title  rather  than  a  proper  name. 
Its   meaning  is   "the   enlightened."     The  religion  known  as 

[157] 


158  BUDDHISM. 

Biuldhism  has  existed  for  nearly  twenty-five  hundred  years. 
Its  founder  was  Gautama,  a  royal  prince,  whose  home  was  in 
northern  central  India.  After  marrying  happily,  a  son  was 
born  to  him,  and  his  home  and  prospects  for  the  future  con- 
tained everything  which  from  a  natural  standpoint  could  make 
life  desirable.  But  in  the  midst  of  these  scenes  upon  wdiich 
the  heart  naturally  dwells  with  delight,  even  in  contemplation, 
and  which  but  few  can  ever  realize,  Gautama's  heart  conceived 
an  abhorrence  for  the  vanities  of  life.  He  brooded  over  its  un- 
certainties and  the  unavoidable  dissolution  which  awaits  all 
earthly  things.  His  father  sought  to  divert  his  mind  from 
these  melancholy  reflections  by  surrounding  him  with  all  that 
wealth  and  honor  could  bestow ;  but  it  was  to  no  purpose.  He 
chose  to  leave  all  that  heart  could  hold  dear,  to  cut  in  sunder 
every  tie  that  bound  him  to  earth,  and  by  a  life  ot[  rigid  asceti- 
cism and  contemplation  to  discover,  if  possible,  the  secret  of 
true  happiness  and  peace. 

Upon  the  night  in  which  his  first-born  came  into  the 
world,  he  turned  from  his  home,  without  a  farewell  word  to 
his  beautiful  and  affectionate  wife,  or  one  look  at  his  newdjorn 
babe.  Accompanied  by  his  servant,  he  passed  hastily  into  the 
wilderness,  at  the  border  of  which  he  dismissed  his  servant 
and  sent  him  back  with  the  horse.  Exchancino-  his  robes  for 
the  ra2:s  of  a  mendicant,  cuttins;  off  his  lonij  hair,  the  sign  of 
his  high  rank  and  caste,,  he  devoted  himself  for  six  years  to 
rigorous  meditation  in  which  posture  his  images  represent  him, as 
seen  in  the  illustration.  At  this  time  he  w^as  tempted  to  give  up 
the  struggle  and  return  to  a  more  congenial  life ;  but  his  few 
followers  deserting  him,  he  once  more  resolved  to  continue  his 
meditations.  So  he  seated  himself  under  a  tree,  where  he  re- 
mained for  weary  months,  until,  of  a  sudden,  light  broke  in 
upon  his  soul,  and  he  went  forth  to  preach  his  new-found  doc- 
trine to  others.     The  tree  under  which  he  had  sat  became  to 


A   LIVING   DEATH. 


159 


him  and  his  followers  the  most  sacred  spot  on  earth,  and  was 
called  Bohidrnma  (the  tree  of  intelligence),  whence  we  have 
the  bo-tree,  which  is  held  in  sacred  veneration  throughout 
India,  the  title  being  applied  to  the  pippul-tree. 

The  principle  of  Gautama's  philosophy,  briefly  stated,  seems 
to  be  tliat  existence  is  an  unmitigated  evil ;  that  the  only  way 
to  escape  its  evils  is  to  ignore  its  fact,  and  to  live  as  nearly  as 
possible  as  if  there  were  no  life.     It  is  therefore  necessary  to 


Image  of  Rtddha. 

labor  to  quench,  snuff  out,  beat  down,  and  exterminate  every 
natural  emotion,  and  become  absorbed  in  the  contemplation  of 
the  abstract.  To  him  there  w\as  no  God  such  as  the  heart 
naturally  venerates,  much  less  such  a  one  as  the  Bible  reveals. 
Gautama,  being  a  Hindu,  retained  his  idea  of  the  transmigration 
of  souls  and  the  final  extinction  of  individual  existence  by  ab- 
sorption into  an  indefinite  "original"  called  "the  Nirvana." 
With  the  private  life  of  Buddha  no  fault  is  found.  His  teach- 
ings embrace  lofty  sentiments  of  self-abnegation  and  moral 
ethics. 


100  BUBDHISM. 

The  following   concise  statement    of  Buddliisni  is   from  a 
o-ood  authority  :  — 

"The  key  of  the  whole  schemo'of  Buddhist  salvation  lies 
in  what  Gautama  called  his  Four  Suhlime  Verities.  The  first 
asserts  that  pain  exists  ;  the  second,  that  the  cause  of  pain  is 
desire  or  attachment  —  the  meaning  of  which  will  appear 
Hirther  on ;  and  the  fourth  shows  the  way  that  leads  to  Nir- 
vana. This  way  to  Nirvana  consists  in  eight  things  :  right 
faith,  right  judgment,  right  language,  right  purpose,  right 
practice,  right  obedience,  right  memor}',  and  right  meditation. 
In  delivering  his  precepts,  the  Buddha  considers  men  as  di- 
vided into  two  classes, — -those  who  have  embraced  the  relig- 
ious life  (Sramanas),  and  those  who  continue  in  the  world,  or 
are  laymen.  These  last  are  considered  as  too  much  attached 
to  existence  to  feel  any  desire  or  have  any  hope  of  emancipa- 
tion, at  least  at  this  stage.  But  there  are  certain  precepts 
which  it  is  necessary  for  all  to  obey,  that  they  may  not  bring 
greater  misery  npon  themselves  in  their  next  birth,  and  rivet 
the  bonds  of  existence  more  indissolubly.  There  are  ten 
moral  precepts  or  '  precepts  of  aversion.'  Five  of  these  are  of 
universal  application ;  namely,  not  to  kill ;  not  to  steal ;  not 
to  commit  adultery;  not  to  lie;  not  to  be  drunken.  Other 
five  for  those  entering  on  the  direct  pursuit  of  Nirvana  by  em- 
bracing the  religious  life  are :  to  abstain  from  food  out  of 
season  —  that  is,  after  mid-day  ;  to  abstain  from  dances,  theat- 
rical representations,  songs  and  music  ;  to  abstain  from  per- 
sonal ornaments  and  perfumes  ;  to  abstain  from  a  lofty  and 
luxurious  couch  ;  to  abstain  from  taking  gold  and  silver.  For 
the  regular  ascetics  or  monks,  there  are  a  number  of  special 
observances  of  a  very  severe  kind.  They  are  to  dress  only  in 
rags  sewed  together  with  their  own  hands,  and  to  have  a 
yellow  cloak  thrown  over  the  rags.  They  are  to  eat  only  the 
simplest  food,  and  to  possess  nothing  except  what  they  get  by 


A  DARK  PICTURE.  Id 

collecting  alms  from  door  to  door  in  a  wooden  bowl.  Only 
one  meal  is  allowed  them,  and  that  must  be  eaten  before  mid- 
day. For  a  part  of  the  year,  they  are  to  li^-e  in  forests,  with 
no  other  shelter  except  the  shadow  of  a  tree ;  and  there  they 
must  sit  on  their  carpet  even  during  sleep,  to  lie  down  being 
forbidden.  Thev  are  allowed  to  enter  the  nearest  villaoe  to 
beg  food,  but  they  must  return  to  their  forests  before  night. 

"Besides  the  absolutely  necessary  'aversions  and  obserA- 
ances '  above  mentioned,  the  transgression  of  which  must  lead 
to  misery  in  the  next  existenre,  there  are.  certain  virtues  or 
'  perfections '  of  a  supererogatory  story  or  transcendent  kind, 
that  tend  directly  to  'conduct  to  the  other  shore'  (Nirvana). 
The  most  essential  of  these  are  almsgiving  or  charity,  purity, 
patience,  courage,  contemplation,  and  knowledge.  Charity  or 
benevolence  may  be  said  to  be  the  characteristic  virtue  of 
Buddhism, —  a  charity  boundless  in  its  self-abnegation,  and 
extending  to  every  sentient  being.  The  benevolent  actions 
done  by  the  Buddha  himself,  in  the  course  of  his  many  mill- 
ions of  migrations,  w^ere  favorite  themes  wath  his  followers. 
On  one  occasion,  seeing  a  tigress  starved,  and  unable  to  feed 
her  cubs,  he  hesitated  not  to  make  his  body  an  oblation  to 
charity,  and  allowed  them  to  devour  him.  Benevolence  to 
animals,  with  that  tendency  to  exaggerate  a  right  principle  so 
characteristic  of  the  East,  is  carried  among  the  Buddhist  monks 
to  the  leno'th  of  avoidinor  the  destruction  of  fleas  and  the  most 
noxious  vermin,  which  they  remoA'e  from  their  persons  with  all 
tenderness." 

Buddhism  in  its  best  phases,  as  taught  by  the  philosopher 
himself,  presents  the  spectacle  of  a  soul  struggling  with  the 
ills  of  sinful,  mortal  life,  as  they  appear  to  the  human  under- 
standing, without  the  help  of  divine  grace  or  the  enlighten- 
ment of  the  wisdom  that  comes  from  above.  It  is  humanity 
j)rofoundly  impressed  with  an  indistinct  sense  of  its  own 
11 


o 

o 

o 
o 


an 


a: 
S 

a 


MACHINE  PRAYING.  10;> 

needs,  coping  single-handed  with  the  problem  of  its  own  salva- 
tion. The  picture  is  dark  both  in  foreground  and  in  Itack- 
ground.  Its  perspective  is  unrelieved  by  one  single  ray  of 
hope  beaming  from  the  spiritual  world.  It  comes  to  those 
who  are  sick  with  sin,  and  depicts  their  dreadful  condition, 
prescribes  ashes  and  gall  for  their  sorrow,  with  the  hope  (?)  of 
final  extinction  at  last.  Analogy  and  nature  taught  Gautanni, 
to  some  extent,  the  character  of  sin,  and  observation  showed 
him  some  of  its  common  forms.  But  it  was  only  a  human 
conception  of  sin,  and  the  remedy  was  but  human.  How  has 
the  grand  scheme  worked  out  in  practical  life  ?  —  Just  as 
every  earth-born  scheme  of  human  redemption  from  sin  has 
terminated  and  ever  will  terminate  —  in  utter  failure.  Gau- 
tama had  not  the  remotest  thought  of  posing  as  an  object  of 
worship;  he  endeavored  to  teach  the  contrary  of  earthly  am- 
bition. But  his  followers  soon  lost  sight  of  even  the  main 
elements  of  the  virtue  which  his  system  embraced.  Buddha  be- 
came a  god  to  them,  and  his  philosophy  degenerated  into  the 
most  senseless  idolatry.  There  was  in  it  no  divine  element. 
Separated  from  Jesus  Christ,  the  world  has  not  the  slightest 
power  to  save  itself  nor  even  to  check  its  downward  career  to 
everlastins:  ruin. 

The  visit  to  one  of  the  temples  was  one  of  interest,  and 
confirmed  the  conclusion  reached  in  reference  to  the  practical 
workings  of  the  system.  In  front  of  the  inclosure  stand  two 
or  three  towers  of  light  frame-work,  which  were  hung  full  of 
rags.  These  flapping  in  the  wind  repeat  prayers  in  behalf 
of  the  individuals  who  have  huno;  them  there ;  so  that  a  man 
may  hang  his  bit  of  cloth  upon  the  prayer-tower,  and  go  about 
his  business  with  the  happy  assurance  that  his  prayers  are  go- 
ing on  continually.  The  same  superstition  is  seen  in  Thibet 
in  the  mammoth  prayer-wheels,  in  which  are  placed  images  of 
Buddha  and  prayers  innumerable,  the  wheels  being  turned  by 


1(34  BUDDHLSM. 

horse-power,  wind,  or  water-power.  Each  revolution  is  sup- 
posed to  develop,  in  behalf  of  the  one  for  whom  it  is  turned, 
all  the  virtue  there  is  in  the  entire  outfit.  This  it  probably 
does.  Smaller  wheels  are  very  common.  Some  are  carried  in 
the  hand  or  set  up  by  the  wayside,  as  I  have  often  seen  in  the 
Himalaya  Mountains.  They  turn  nimbly  on  a  spindle,  and 
those  simple  souls  suppose  that  in  turning  them  they  receive 
great  merit.  These  foolish  ideas  have  their  counterpart  too  in 
Christian  countries.  They  forcibly  remind  us  of  the  very 
familiar  story  of  the  man  who,  to  save  time,  had  his  evening 
prayer  printed  and  pasted  to  his  bedpost,  and  would  point  to 
that  as  his  sentiments  before  jumping  into  bed.  Although 
this  is  an  exaggeration  of  the  facts,  it  doubtless  represents 
quite  correctly  what,  in  the  minds  of  many  worldly-minded 
professors,  passes  for  devotion. 

Buddhism  has  extended  over  a  great  portion  of  Southern 
Asia,  and  holds  under  its  shadow  five  hundred  million  people, 
or  one  third  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  earth.  But  its  popu- 
larity is  no  criterion  of  its  success.  The  question  by  which  it 
should  be  tried  is.  Does  it  save  men  and  women  from  sin  and 
its  consequences  ?  Does  it  elevate  its  devotees  in  intelligence 
and  morality,  and  bring  to  them  knowledge  and  happiness  ? 
It  is  of  the  earth,  earthv.  Beneath  the  weight  of  human 
degradation  and  its  own  inherent  weakness,  it  quickly  sunk  to 
its  own  level  of  heathen  superstition,  and  became  entirely  im- 
potent for  any  good  in  the  dire  necessities  of  the  race. 


1/ 


SIGHTS  IN  COLOMBO  AND  MADRAS. 


P2NSIDE  the  temple  we  find  a  corridor  extending  aronnd 
the  inner  wall,  on  both  sides  of  Avhich  are  figures  of 
_  Buddha  in  a  sitting  and  pensive  posture.  Each  of 
these  is  a  shrine  at  which  small  lamps  of  cocoa  oil  are 
kept  burning;  the  walls  are  adorned  with  frescoes  of  historical 
events.  Upon  one  side  is  a  recumbent  image  of  Buddha  over 
twenty  feet  long,  in  which  he  is  represented  lying  upon  his 
right  side.  The  figure  is  covered  with  gilt,  and  inclosed  in  a, 
glass  case.  It  was  expected  at  this  place,  as  at  every  similar 
one,  that  the  officiating  priest  would  receive  a  small  present  of 
money.  As  we  were  about  to  leave,  the  principal  portion  of 
the  worshipers  were  transformed  at  once  into  a  pack  of  beg- 
gars, whose  importunities  passed  far  into  the  realm  of  impu- 
dence. One  girl,  of  perhaps  fourteen  years,  more  advanced  in 
the  art  than  most  children,  had  in  her  hand  a  beautiful  nosegay 
which  she  continually  urged  me  to  accept.  Finally,  seeing 
that  I  did  not  care  for  it,  she  placed  it  in  my  hand,  and  after 
waiting  for  a  response  of  coppers,  which  was  not  forthcoming, 
she  demanded  pay  for  her  flowers.  But  I  stepped  into  the 
carriage  and  drove  away,  retaining  the  flowers.  She  ran  along- 
side the  carriage, insisting  upon  pay;  but  when  she  did  not  get 
it,  she  watched  her  opportunity  and,  springing  up,  caught  the 
flowers  from  my  hand  before  I  was  aware  of  her  movements. 
But  they  would  hardly  serve  for  another  trick  without  being 
repaired ! 

[165] 


o 

o 

o 
O 


o 


CUSTOM :S  AND   PRODUCTS.  167 

Tobacco-chewing,  one  of  the  foulest  practices  of  modern 
Christendom,  finds  a  rival  in  Ceylon  and  India  in  the  disgust- 
ing habit  of  chewing  the  betel  leaf.  Men,  w^omen,  and  chil- 
dren seem  to  chew  this  substance  almost  constantly.  It,  is 
chewed  in  a  green  state,  and  is  therefore  juicy.  The  dark  red 
color  of  the  juice  is  allowed  to  discolor  teeth,  lips,  and  the  ad- 
jacent external  territory,  with  a  reckless  disregard  for  personal 
appearance.  The  taste  of  the  green  leaf  is  of  a  spicy  fbivor 
and  not  so  pungent  as  that  of  tobacco,  but  its  deep  and  copious 
coloring  matter  renders  its  use  about  as  disgusting  as  that  of 
its  civilized  (?)  congener. 

The  inhabitants  of  Ceylon  are  of  various  origin  and  shades 
of  color,  from  the  white  British  officer  to  the  coal-black  Ethi- 
o^jjan.  Besides  the  Cingalese,  or  native  dwellers,  the  prevail- 
ing element  is  the  Tamil  from  the  adjoining  shores  of  Southern 
India ;  next  are  the  Arabs,  then  the  Malays,  the  Abyssinians, 
and  others.  The  Europeans  number  about  five  thousand. 
Ceylon  is  a  dependency  of  the  British  empire.  The  adminis- 
tration is  in  the  hands  of  a  governor  appointed  by  Great  Britain, 
and  assisted  by  a  council  of  five.  Ceylon  was  formerly  noted 
for  the  coftee  which  it  exported,  but  its  culture  having  been 
almost  wholly  discontinued  on  account  of  diseases  of  the  plant, 
tea  has  taken  its  place.  In  1879  coffee  was  exported  to  the 
value  of  over  fifteen  million  dollars ;  in  ten  years  it  had  fallen 
to  one  tenth  of  that  amount;  and  during  that  time  the  produc- 
tion of  tea  increased  in  the  same  proportion.  Other  articles  of 
export  are  cinchona,  cocoa-nut  oil,  and  cinnamon.  The  money 
of  Ceylon  is  the  rupee  divided  into  one  hundred  cents,  instead 
of  the  pice  and  pies  of  India. 

The  fruit  and  vegetable  market,  situated  in  the  center  of 
the  citv,  is  a  most  interesting  sio-ht  to  visitors.  The  strange 
varieties  of  vegetables,  fruits,  and  flowers  constitute  a  museum 
to  the  stranger,  and  afford  him  a  large   amount  of  pleasurable 


168  SIGHTS  IN'  COLOMBO  AND  MADRAS. 

study.  The  city  is  nearly  divided  by  a  large  fresh-water  lake 
formed  by  water  from  the  mountains.  The  principal  park  is 
called  the  Cinnamon  Garden.  This  is  not,  as  one  might  be  led 
to  suppose  from  the  name,  a  garden  where  cinnamon  is  culti- 
vated, but  a  public  park  in  which  all  sorts  of  trees,  shrubs,  and 
flowers  grow.  In  the  midst  of  the  park  stands  the  Govern- 
ment Museum,  a  place  of  exceeding  interest  on  account  of  the 
strange  specimens  it  contains.  But  the  entire  city  partakes  so 
much  of  the  nature  of  a  park  that  one  does  not  appreciate  the 
really  beautiful  garden  so  much  as  he  would  if  it  graced  some 
other  city.  For  on  all  sides  the  stately  palm,  loaded  at  this 
time  with  ripening  clusters  of  nuts,  the  spreading  mango  and 
rubber  trees,  the  much-heard-of  banyan,  with  cinnamon  trees 
and  luxuriant  banana  plants  growing  everywhere,  form  a 
continual  scene  of  loveliness.  In  the  European  portion  of  the 
city  many  of  the  residences  are  very  beautiful,  the  attractive- 
ness being  greatly  heightened  by  the  lavish  display  of  foliage 
and  flowers.  A  walk  out  on  the  breakwater,  as  ffir  as  the 
dashing  seas  would  permit,  in  company  with  a  Christian  Eng- 
lish policeman,  formed  an  agreeable  feature  of  the  day,  which 
was  pleasantly  finished  by  a  drive  along  the  Galle  Face,  a  sea- 
side promenade,  ornamented  with  boulevards,  walks,  and  beds 
of  choice  flowers.  Upon  the  sandy  beach  the  rolling  breakers 
are  constantly  displaying  their  graceful  and  majestic  forms. 

Our  vessel  from  Colombo  to  Calcutta  was  the  "  Chusan," 
from  London.  And  as  it  was  at  the  beuinninii'  of  the  cool  sea- 
son,  it  was  full  of  passengers  returning  to  India  after  their 
summer  vacation.  Among  the  passengers  was  a  goodly  num- 
ber of  missionaries,  some  of  whom  were  going  out  for  the  first 
time.  The  strait  between  Ceylon  and  the  mainland  of  India 
is  not  of  sufficient  depth  for  large  vessels,  so  the  trip  to  Cal- 
cutta has  to  be  made  bv  sailing  around  the  southern  and  east- 
ern  sides  of  the  island.     It  being  fine  weather,  we  enjoyed  a 


MADRAS.  169 

delightful  ride,  nearly  all  the  way  in  sight  of  the  lovely  mount- 
ains and  ragged  cliffs  of  the  land  where  "  every  prospect 
pleases,  and  only  man  is  vile." 

Leaving  Colombo  at  half  past  five  on  Friday  evening,  we 
neared  the  harbor  of  Madras  late  on  the  afternoon  of  Sunday. 
The  shores  are  so  low  that  at  a  distance  of  ten  miles  or  more 
the  city  appears  to  be  sitting  upon  the  water,  for  the  buildings 
are  in  sight  some  time  before  the  land  can  be  seen. 

The  city  being  built  upon  the  open  beach  or  roadstead,  the 
harbor  is  an  artificial  one,  formed  by  two  arms  of  a  breakwater 
built  of  immense  blocks  of  concrete  tumbled  into  the  sea,  in- 
stead of  being  laid  in  symmetrical  shape  as  at  Colombo.  The 
two  arms  do  not  quite  meet  at  their  extremities,  thus  leaving 
an  opening  through  which  vessels  pass.  Ships  are  not  able  to 
come  to  the  shore,  but  loading  and  unloading  must  be  done  by 
means  of  liiihters  and  small  boats. 

Madras  is  the  third  city  in  India.  It  is  located  on  the 
Bay  of  Bengal,  about  midway  between  the  southern  point  of 
the  country  and  the  mouth  of  the  Ganges.  Its  population  is 
four  hundred  and  thirty  thousand,  composed  mainly  of  Tamils 
and  Telugus,  the  two  principal  nationalities  of  Southern  India. 
The  city  stands  upon,  or  very  near,  the  line  that  divides  their 
territories.  The  natives  of  this  part  of  India  are  much  darker 
than  those  farther  north.  Here  England  gained  her  first  foot- 
hold in  India.  Madras  was  established  by  the  British,  repre- 
sented by  Francis  Day,  in  1639.  Long-continued  missionary 
work  has  been  bestowed  here,  and  it  is  claimed  that  there  are 
forty-five  thousand  Christians  in  the  city.  There  are  about 
thirty  Christian  church  edifices,  some  of  which  are  of  large 
size  and  comfortable  appearance. 

Arriving  in  the  harbor  late  in  the  evening,  no  attempt  was 
made  to  go  ashore  except  by  those  who  had  now  reached 
their  destination.     Among  these  were  two  young  ladies  who 


170  SIGHTS  IN  COLOMBO   AND   MADRAS. 

hnd  come  to  meet  their  going-to-be  husbands,  whom  they  had 
never  seen  before  that  evening,  when  they  came  on  board  to 
meet  them.  The  hidies  had  come  in  answer  to  advertisements, 
and  appeared  to  be  persons  of  culture  and  gentility.  The  ex- 
citing interest  with  which  they  met  their  future  companions  was 
shared  by  all  the  passengers  who  had  formed  their  acquaint- 
ance. So  far  as  an  onlooker  could  observe,  there  was  no 
shadow  of  disappointment  in  the  meeting  to  mar  the  prospect 
of  a  happy  future. 

The  following  morning  we  were  notified  that  the  vessel 
would  remain  but  a  short  time  in  port,  therefore  no  time  was 
to  be  lost.  There  was  no  difficulty  in  finding  a  conveyance 
ashore,  for  the  moment  one  appeared  to  be  contemplating  such 
a  move,  the  natives  would  eagerly  scramble  over  each  other  to 
get  him  to  go  in  their  boats.  After  quite  a  scrimmage  of  this 
kind,  I  made  an  agreement  with  a  party  who  was  to  take  me 
to  shore  and  return  for  a  stipulated  sum.  The  boats  in  this 
harbor  are  great  lumbering  craft  built  for  cargo,  of  rude  planks 
sewed  tegether.  They  are  propelled  by  from  six  to  ten  coolies 
with  paddles  consisting  of  round  paddle-blades  fastened  to  the 
end  of  long,  slender  poles.  Onr  boat,  on  account  of  its  size 
and  weight,  could  not  come  very  near  the  shore;  therefore  I 
was  loaded  upon  the  shoulders  of  three  men,  who  took  me  to 
dry  land.  For  this  service  each  demanded  a  fee,  having  paid 
which,  I  was  told  that  the  price  agreed  upon  for  the  trip 
would  answer  for  only  one  way,  and  I  would  have  to  pay  the 
same  for  my  return.  I  did  not  argue  the  case  then,  but  con- 
cluded that  I  would  see  about  it  later. 

It  turned  out  that  one  of  the  men  in  the  boat  was  a  pro- 
fessional guide,  who  attached  himself  to  my  service  with  a 
devotion  that  was  really  interesting.  Shake  him  off  I  could 
not;  so,  making  a  virtue  of  necessity,  I  bargained  for  his  serv- 
ices, with  a  carriage.     lie  proved  to  be  competent,  and  was 


/  FELL   A3fOA^G  BEG  GAR  JS.  171 

worth  all  he  asked  in  defending  me  from  a  worse  crowd  of 
beggars  than  I  had  ever  dreamed  of.  I  was  traveling  entirely 
alone,  and  often  found  it  a  great  disadvantage  to  have  to  cope 
single-handed  with  a  multitude  who  regard  the  traveler  as  their 
legitimate  prey,  from  whom  they  must  wrest  the  very  last 
cent  by  begging,  swindling,  or  cajolery.  In  a  country  where 
a  very  few  cents  is  an  ordinar}^  wage  for  a  day's  work,  an 
hour  or  so  vigorously  spent  upon  a  stranger's  sympathy  or 
gullibility  will  sometimes  permit  them  to  take  two  or  three 
holidays.  On  this  particular  occasion,  an  attempt  was  made 
to  take  advantage  of  my  apparent  greenness,  but  in  the  main 
it  proved  a  bootless  pursuit,  for  it  does  not  require  very  much 
acuteness  of  vision  to  perceive  their  knavish  tricks. 

The  People's  Park,  the  burning-field,  where  the  dead  are 
cremated,  the  central  market,  and  a  general  drive  through  the 
city  comprised  my  visit  to  Madras.  The  first-mentioned  point 
is  not  worthy  of  special  attention  when  compared  with  the 
botanical  and  zoological  gardens  to  be  seen  in  many  other 
places.  The  sight  of  some  strange  animals  was  of  interest, 
though  of  these  the  alligators,  who  possess  two  pairs  of  eyes, 
one  upon  the  upper  and  another  on  the  under  side  of  the  head, 
only  were  remarkable.  This  is  a  very  convenient  arrangem.ent 
for  creatures  that  have  to  look  both  up  and  down  for  their  food. 
The  keeper  would  roll  them  over  for  inspection,  and  stir  them 
up  with  a  pole  for  their  exercise  and  our  amusement. 

The  very  crowded  condition  of  the  cities  impresses  the 
stranger  in  all  these  Eastern  countries.  The  people  live  in 
swarms.  Even  the  villages  are  compact;  hence  one  who  is  ac- 
customed to  the  liberal  room  of  Western  towns  would  get  but 
an  inadequate  idea  of  the  population  of  a  city  from  its  apparent 
or  comparative  size. 

A  boy  for  the  first  time  in  a  menagerie  does  not  gaze  with 
greater  wonder  and  interest  upon  the  strange  sights  than  does 


^^V  ESCAPE.  173 

a  man  from  Northern  civilization  look  upon  the  continually 
shifting  panorama  of  strange  scenes  that  is  passing  before  his 
eyes,  as  he  visits  the  "  other  side  "  of  the  world  for  the  first 
time.  Everything  he  beholds  is  dilferent  from  what  he  is  ac- 
customed to  see.  The  color  and  manners  of  the  people,  their 
strange  dress,  strange  buildings,  bazaars  and  shops,  modes  of 
conveyance, —  in  fact,  every  feature  upon  which  the  eye  rests, 
—  all  are  new  and  strange.  At  the  close  of  the  first  day  one 
could  write  almost  a  volume  on  the  remarkable  things  he  has 
seen.  But  in  a  very  short  time  he  will  again  be  surprised, — 
this  time  at  himself;  for  he  is  becoming  so  accustomed  to 
these  things  that  they  no  longer  attract  attention.  When 
asked  to  tell  what  he  has  seen,  he  has  forgotten  his  first 
impressions,  and  can  recall  but  little  that  is  worthy  of  re- 
mark. Thus  rapidly  does  the  mind  accommodate  itself  to  its 
surroundings  ! 

As  soon  as  I  was  seated  in  the  boat  for  the  return,  and  we 
had  fairly  pushed  off  the  shore,  pay, —  double  pay, —  was  de- 
manded, which  was  promptly  refused.  I  was  told  that  they 
would  not  row  me  to  the  ship  unless  I  paid  them.     I  signified 

my  willingness  to  stay  wdiere  we  w^ere,  and  so  we  lay  quiet 
for  some  time;  but  fearing  that  the  vessel  might  leave,  I  or- 
dered the  crew  to  take  me  on  board.  Verbally  refusing,  yet 
practically  yielding,  by  slow  degrees  we  reached  the  ship  ;  but 
then  they  carefully  kept  clear  of  the  gangway,  and  insisted 
upon  having  their  pay.  My  answer  was  that  they  would,  get 
nothing  till  I  Avas  on  the  ship.  I  was  near  the  middle  of  the 
boat,  and  apparently  indifferent  about  getting  off,  as  I  saw  that 
the  vessel  was  not  going  for  some  time.  Seeing  me  so  com- 
fortable, they  too  became  careless,  and  let  the  boat  bum}) 
against  another  which  w^as  tied  to  the  ship's  companion-way. 
Before  they  realized  it,  their  passenger  was  skipping  across  the 
other  boat  and  up  the  ladder.     They  quickly  followed,  angrily 


174  ^SIGHT^S  IN  COLOMBO   AND  MADRAS. 

demanding  their  money.  Reaching  the  deck,  they  receiA^ed 
the  sum  agreed  upon  for  the  round  trip,  and  for  their  further 
trouhle  were  unceremoniously  tumbled  off  the  steamer  by  the 
boatswain  and  his  men. 

Tlie  man  wdio  acted  as  guide  was  not  at  all  satisfied  with 
the  liberal  price  agreed  upon  for  his  services,  and  the  driver  of 
the  carriage  insisted  that  he  had  not  received  his  pay.  In 
short,  every  man  of  them  who  had  volunteered  any  trifling 
service  or  advice  wanted  pay.  The  guide  assured  me  in  start- 
ing out  that  he  was  a  good,  honest  Christian  ;  that  he  gave  all 
his  money  to  God,  and  did  not  use  it  for  himself,  or  his  mother, 
or  his  wife,  or  his  sister,  but  gave  all  to  the  Lord.  Yet  he 
diowed  his  bringing  up  in  making  change  by  trying  to  cheat 
me  every  time  an  opportunity  offered  itself. 

Considering  the  character  of  my  experience,  it  was  with 
no  particular  regrets  upon  my  part  that  we  sailed  out  upon  the 
broad  Bay  of  Bengal.  The  chief  officer  asking  me  what  I 
thought  of  Madras,  I  could  but  reply  that  it  was  the  best 
place  to  get  out  of  that  I  had  ever  seen.  Let  us  stop  here  to 
look  at  this  matter  in  the  sober  light  of  a  better  experience 
and  wider  observation.  People  from  our  civilization  usually 
obtain  and  carry  away  from  India  the  opinion  that  the  natives 
are  a  race  of  unmitigated  liars  and  thieves;  and  they  attach  to 
the  character  of  the  people  all  the  opprobrium  which  such  a 
reputation  carries  in  countries  of  Christian  education.  This  is, 
however,  a  wrong  estimate  of  their  real  character ;  for  a  per- 
son's character  depends  upon  at  least  two  things  :  first,  the 
standard  by  which  he  has  been  educated ;  second,  the  faithful- 
ness with  which  he  lives  up  to  that  standard  —  not  his  fidelity 
in  living  up  to  what  has  been  taught  us,  but  to  what  has  been 
taught  him.  It  is  unreasonable  for  us  to  hold  people  in  unen- 
lightened countries  amenable  to  our  own  moral  code,  when 
these  principles  have  not  been  taught  them. 


FROM  MADRAS  TO  THE  HIMALAYAS. 


E  left  Madras  at  noon  on  Monday  ;  and  as  the  pilot 
11^   who   took  us    out  of  the  harbor  was  leaving  the 
bridae,  he  was  overheard  to  remark  that  there  was 
^"■^  a  heavy  cyclone  on  the  other  side  of  the  bay,  next 

to  Burmah,  and  as  it  was  making  its  way  northwest,  we  would 
probably  meet  it.  These  words  quickly  going  around  among 
the  passengers  caused  some  uneasiness,  for  a  cyclone  in  these 
waters  often  means  destruction  to  the  vessels  that  happen  to 
be  in  its  path.  But  the  outcome  proved  the  w^isdom  of  that 
old  proverb  which  tells  us  not  to  trouble  trouble  till  trouble 
troubles  us. 

The  quantity  of  silt  that  is  brought  down  by  the  Ganges 
and  Brahmapootra  rivers  and  discharged  into  the  bay,  forms  ex- 
tensive bars  which  render  navigation  difficult  for  more  than 
fifty  miles  below  where  the  mouths  of  the  rivers  are  reached. 
At  this  distance  from  the  mainland  the  pilot-station  is  located 
on  a  ship  at  anchor.  We  picked  up  our  pilot  still  farther  out  at 
sea,  on  the  afternoon  of  Wednesday,  and  slowly  made  our  way 
toward  the  entrance  of  the  shifting  channel.  During  that 
night  we  had  an  experience  which  called  to  mind  the  predic- 
tion of  the  Madras  pilot.  As  usual,  nearly  all  the  passengers 
were  sleeping  on  the  open  decks.  The  heat  below  was  too 
oppressive  for  sleeping,  and  so  the  obliging  stewards  spread 
our  mattresses  and  coverings  in  any  eligible  spot  which  we 
might  choose.  My  location  was  the  cover  of  the  main  liatch 
forward.      At    midnight   we    were     suddenly    aroused    from 

[17.3] 


17C)  FROM  MADRAS   TO    THE  HIMALAYAS. 

our  peaceful  slumbers  by  a  dashing  rain,  accompanied  by 
blinding  sheets  of  lightning  and  almost  deafening  peals  of 
thunder.  To  us  there  seemed  to  be  no  preliminaries  to  this 
storm.  If  there  were,  we  were  not  made  aware  of  them,  and 
before  we  could  scramble  out  of  bed  and  under  shelter,  wh;it 
little  clothing  we    had  on,  together    with    bed    and    beddinii-, 

*— '  ■'CD  C  7 

was  thoroughly  drenched. 

But  that  was  not  all  there  was  to  it,  for  to  be  so  rudely 
awakened  from  peaceful  sleep  into  the  wildest  commotion  of  a 
tropical  storm,  was  rather  too  much  for  some  w^eak  nerves ;  so 
while  some  were  lauohing  and  wrinii'ino-  their  clothino',  others 
were  screaming  and  w^riniiinii'  their  hands,  thinking  that  we 
were  at  the  mercy  of  the  dreaded  cyclone.  And,  as  if  to  add 
to  the  confusion,  the  ship's  engines  were  stopped,  and  the 
great  whistle  shrieked  out  its  warning  to  other  vessels  to  keep 
clear  of  us.  There  was  hardly  any  wind,  so  that  the  sea  was 
reasonably  calm  ;  but  such  torrents  of  rain,  such  crashing  and 
flashing  of  serial  artillery,  I  never  had  heard  or  seen  equaled. 
It  was  my  privilege  to  comfort  a  poor  Eurasian,  a  government 
telegraph  officer,  who  was  so  frightened  that  he  rushed  about 
moaning  in  terror.  Not  feeling  any  fear  on  this  occasion,  I 
enjoyed  the  demonstration,  though  impressed  with  a  sense  of 
human  helplessness  in  the  presence  of  such  forces.  In  a  short 
time,  the  storm  having  passed  over,  we  were  on  our  way  again. 
But  before  morning  the  vessel  anchored,  as  it  became  danger- 
ous to  proceed  without  daylight. 

That  branch  of  the  delta  which  we  were  seeking,  and  upon 
which  Calcutta  stands,  is  called  the  IToogly  River.  It  is 
formed  by  the  junction  of  the  first  two  off-shoots  from  the 
Ganges,  and  in  this  united  form  it  is  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
five  miles  long.  Being  a  branch  of  the  sacred  river,  the  same 
character  is  attributed  to  it.  Indeed,  it  is  rea:arded  as  the 
most  sacred  portion  of  the  delta.     The  first  land  w^e  reached 


JUGGERNAUT.  177 

was  the  island  which  bears  the  name  of  Saugur.  It  is  quite  a 
body  of  hind,  and  is  regarded  as  an  especially  sacred  spot, 
since  it  is  the  place  where  "Mother  Ganges"  loses  herself  in 
the  sea.  At  this  point  some  of  the  most  celebrated  of  Hindu 
feasts  and  ceremonies  are  carried  on,  and  at  certain  seasons 
the  devotees  flock  here  by  thousands.  It  is  here  perhaps  that 
we  have  more  authentic  evidence  of  the  practice  of  Hindu 
women  castini;'  tlieir  babies  to  crocodiles  than  a nv where  else 
in  India.  It  is  strenuously  denied  by  many  that  such  things 
ever  took  place. 

Many,  also,  who  are  well-versed  in  the  customs  and  history 
of  the  people,  reject  the  much-talked-of  story  of  self-destruc- 
tion under  the  car  of  Juggernaut,  as  something  altogether  im- 
probable. Sir  Wm.  Hunter,  for  instance,  speaks  of  the  report 
in  this  manner  :  "  Nothing  can  be  more  unjust  than  the  vulgar 
story  which  associates  his  car-festival  with  the  wholesale  self- 
murder  of  his  worshipers.  Vishnu  is  always  a  bright  and 
friendly  god,  who  asks  no  offerings  but  flowers,  and  to  whom 
the  shedding  of  blood  is  an  offense.  The  official  records  and 
an  accurate  examination  on  the  spot  disprove  the  calumnies  ol' 
some  English  writers  on  this  subject." 

As  regards  the  Juggernaut  story,  it  is  probable  that  in  the 
crush  and  excitement,  when  many  thousands  were  struggling 
to  obtain  places  at  the  ropes,  some  would  stumble  and  fall  un- 
der the  massive  wheels.  Still  further,  it  might  be  that  some 
forlorn  or  aged  persons  to  whom  life  seemed  a  burden  would 
commit  suicide  in  this  way.  But  it  is  not  probable  that  the 
custom  was  either  sanctioned  or  practiced  to  any  extent  as  a 
voluntary  sacrifice  of  human  life.  In  regard  to  casting  babies 
to  alligators,  it  is  not  unlikely  that  in  a  time  when  the  murder 
of  female  infants  was  practiced  to  a  horrible  extent,  and  sanc- 
tioned by  common  consent,  this  way  of  disposing  of  un- 
welcome children  was  resorted  to.     But  it  would  -be  difficult, 

13 


rjl 

I' 


APPRO ACIILYG    CALCUTTA.  17I) 

at  the  present  time,  to  discover  any  trace  of  snch  a  revoltinu- 
custom,  especially  since  infanticide  is  made  a  crime  by  law. 

No  sooner  had  we  approached  near  enough  the  mainland  to 
obtain  a  view,  than  the  idea  of  "  India's  coral  strands  "  quickly 
vanished.  The  shores  are  muddy  here,  and  the  whole  region 
is  but  the  alluvial  wash  of  the  river  deposited  in  the  ages  past. 
Signs  of  life  soon  appeared  on  either  bank,  and  it  was  more 
than  one  pair  of  eyes  could  do  to  take  in  all  the  sights  that 
were  presented  to  the  right  and  to  the  left,  together  w^th  the 
medley  of  strange  craft  that  were  continually  sweeping  by. 
It  is  eighty  miles  up  the  river  to  Calcutta.  On  our  ship  all  is 
bustle  and  expectancy.  Among  all  our  passengers  there  seemed 
to  be  but  one  wdio  was  not  anticipating  a  reception  by  friends. 
Those  who  were  coming  home  kindly  pointed  out  to  strangers 
and  named  the  various  points  of  interest.  As  we  drew  near 
the  city,  jute-mills,  cotton-factories,  and  other  manufacturing 
establishments  appeared.  We  sailed  past  the  Botanical  Gar- 
dens, and  entered  the  narrow  channel  between  two  solid  rows 
of  vessels  which  lined  either  shore.  They  were  anchored  to 
buoys,  and  ranged  five  or  six  abreast  for  a  distance  of  over  one 
mile.  I  have  never  seen  so  large  an  assemblage  of  sailing 
craft  in  any  port  as  were  gathered  there.  Here  were  ships  of 
all  nations,  some  of  which  had  evidently  been  waiting  long  for 
a  cargo. 

At  about  two  o'clock  on  the  afternoon  of  November  3,  we 
drew  up  to  the  wharf.  The  gang-plank  was  soon  thrown  up 
to  our  deck,  and  w'e  entered  heathendom  in  earnest  —  but  not 
such  a  heathendom  as  our  childhood  fancies  had  painted.  Cal- 
cutta is  called  the  "  city  of  palaces  "  in  irony  by  the  visitor, 
but  in  reality  by  its  denizens ;  but  whatever  we  call  it,  it  is 
a  mighty  metropolis,  full  of  the  hum  and  hubbub  of  business. 
It  being  the  capital  of  the  country,  quite  a  number  of  Euro- 
peans are  naturally  and  necessarily  drawn  hither.     In  the  out- 


ISO  FROM  MADRAS  TO    THE  HIMALAYAS. 

lying  portions  of  the  city,  and  along  the  magnificent  boulevard 
which  faces  the  river,  are  residences  of  the  wealthy  classes, 
both  native  and  European. 

After  three  weeks  of  living  on  shipboard,  and  then  landing 
in  this  strange,  confusing  place,  nothing  seemed  so  desirable  as 
a  r[uiet  spot  in  wdiich  to  get  square  wdth  the  world  once  more. 
Learning  that  the  train  for  Darjeeling  left  at  about  four  o'clock, 
I  made  haste  to  transact  a  little  necessary  business,  and  w^as 
driven  to  the  railway  station  in  a  close-covered,  square-topped 
carriage  called  a  "gharry,"  which  in  India  takes  the  place  of  a 
hack.  Within  two  hours  from  the  time  of  disembarking,  I  was 
leaving  the  opposite  side  of  the  city,  drawn  by  the  iron  horse 
at  a  flying  rate  of  speed.  The  train  glided  along  with  a 
smoothness  that  was  very  pleasant.  The  carriages  of  the  first 
and  second  classes  are  generally  twenty  feet  in  length,  and 
divided  into  two  compartments  which  are  entered  through 
doors  from  a  platform,  or  at  the  side.  Along  each  side  is  a 
seat  of  good  width,  and  a  third  one  with  a  reversible  back  runs 
throuirh  the  middle.  Above  the  side  seats  are  two  foldins;  shelves 
which  may  be  let  down  at  night  to  serve  as  berths.  Nearly 
everyone  traveling  in  India  carries  his  bed  with  him.  It  need 
not  consist  of  more  than  a  blanket  and  a  pillow,  or  it  may  be  a 
more  elaborate  outfit.  The  railways  supply  sufficient  carriages 
so  that  not  more  than  five  passengers  need  ride  in  a  compart- 
ment, and  generally  not  more  than  three;  and  a  rupee  judi- 
ciously bestowed  upon  the  guard,  or  conductor,  will  generally 
give  a  European  passenger  sole  occupancy.  When  night  comes 
on,  he  spreads  his  bed  on  the  long  seat,  and  quietly  rests  till 
morning. 

On  this  occasion  our  journey  was  rudely  broken  at  about 
nine  o'clock  in  the  evening  by  arriving  at  the  banks  of  the 
Ganges  River,  where  it  was  necessary  to  transfer.  On  the 
deck   of  a   comfortable   ferry-steamer   I    thoroughly   enjoyed 


CLIMBING    THE  MOUNTAINS.  181 

the  moonlight  ride  of  four  or  five  miles  on  the  majestic  stream. 
I  must  confess  to  some  strange  impressions  that  evening, —  so 
far  away  from  friends,  and  floating  calmly  down  that  river 
whose  name  was  associated  with  the  weird  and  mystical  realms 
of  childhood's  fancy.  At  this  point  the  river  has  its  greatest 
volume.  It  has  received  its  last  tributary,  and  has  not  yet 
divided  its  waters.  Reaching  the  other  bank,  we  were  soon 
ensconced  once  more  in  a  comfortable  temporary  bed,  and  there 
permitted  to  sleep  till  the  sun  was  ready  for  another  day's 
business. 

We  reached  Siliguri  in  time  for  breakfast.  All  night  we 
had  been  riding  across  the  level  Gangetic  plain  toward  the 
Himalayas  to  the  north.  Thus  far,  we  had  gained  practically 
nothing  in  altitude.  But  for  some  time  the  snow-topped 
mountains  had  been  looming  up  before  us,  and  now  we  were 
at  their  base.  We  must  now  exchange  the  ponderous  train  of 
the  valley  for  the  light  mountain  climber,  which  runs  on  a 
two-foot  gauge.  There  stood  a  vigorous  looking  little  ten-ton 
engine,  having  its  entire  weight  upon  its  driving  wheels.  The 
carriages,  accommodating  about  sixteen  passengers  each,  are 
not  much  larger  than  an  ordinary  omnibus,  on  account  of  the 
sharp  curves  in  the  line.  The  sides  are  open  all  around, 
though  they  may  be  closed  with  curtains.  We  are  soon  ready 
for  a  start  upon  the  most  intensly  interesting  ride  that  it  has 
ever  been  my  fortune  to  take.  There  now  remained  a  little 
over  fifty  miles  of  distance  to  Darjeeling.  One  fourth  of 
this  is  through  jungle  and  forest  before  the  ascent  really 
begins ;  then  in  the  next  thirty  miles  we  must  rise  seven 
thousand  four  hundred  feet  and  then  descend  four  hundred 
in  the  latter  part  of  our  journey.  As  we  begin  to  rise,  we 
are  impressed  with  the  grandeur  of  the  heights  that  tower 
overhead.  But  we  soon  find  that  these  were  all  low  foot-hills, 
and  having  mounted  them,  there  are  others  like  them  still  be- 


182 


FROM  MADRAS    TO    THE  III  31  AL  AY  AS. 


fore  us  ;  and  these  being  at  last  beneath  us,  we  are  almost 
awestricken  to  see  yet  grander  heights,  and  to  be  told  that  we 
must  gain  not  only  those  but  others  be^^ond. 

The  government  road  from  Sikkim  to  Thibet  is  followed 
very  closely,  though  when  the  grade  becomes  too  steep  for  the 
engine,  detours  are  made  for  loops,  switchbacks,  tunnels,  and 


The  Darjeeling  Railway. 

every  other  device  by  which  altitude  may  be  gained  by  steam- 
power.  There  are  double  loops,  figure  8's,  and  zigzags  along 
the  mountain-sides.  A  double  loop  is  shown  in  the  engraving. 
Small  sections  of  track  may  be  seen  on  each  side  of  the  picture, 
and  the  rails  emerge  from  the  ground  near  the  center  of 
the  picture.  As  we  gain  in  height,  the  landscape  below 
us  expands  to  our  view.     The  plucky  engine  puffs  away  at 


A  DIZZY  RIDE.  183 

its  load,  and  succeeds  in  whirling  us  around  sharp  curves  and 
oA'er  frightful  bridges,  as  rapidly  as  one  cares  to  ride  in  such 
places.  A  yawning  precipice  is  now  directly  in  front,  to  the 
very  edge  of  which  the  engine  rushes,  then  suddenly  turns,  and 
in  an  instant  the  passenger  is  startled  to  find  himself  clutching 
the  arms  of  his  seat,  while  he  is  hanging  over  an  embankment 
down  which  he  can  look  many  hundred  feet  perpendicularly. 
Glancing  over  the  plain  below,  to  the  farthest  range  of  vis- 
ion, he  sees  the  land  bathed  in  golden  sunshine,  through 
which  the  rivers  run  like  silver  threads.  Above  and  beyond 
him  he  sees  the  towering  heights  of  the  everlasting  mount- 
ains ;  never  has  he  been  so  perfectly  impressed  with  the  great- 
ness of  the  works  of  his  Creator. 

As  we  ascended,  the  precipices  increased  in  dizzy  height, 
till  at  last  it  became  necessary  for  me  to  turn  my  face  to  the 
wall  of  rock  that  rose  above  us  on  the  opposite  side ;  for  my 
head  was  whirling  and  my  heart  became  faint  with  an  over- 
powering sense  of  grandeur  which  cannot  be  expressed.  The 
wagon  road  is  in  an  excellent  state,  and  crowded  with  people 
and  vehicles  passing  up  and  down.  Those  we  met  were  carry- 
ing tea  and  produce  to  Siliguri ;  the  ones  returning  were  laden 
with  such  supplies  as  the  people  in  the  hill  country  and  Thibet 
beyond  required.  Not  more  strange  were  the  rude  outfits 
than  were  the  people  themselves. 

At  the  altitude  of  five  thousand  feet,  we  passed  into  the 
clouds,  which  for  a  time  allowed  us  but  occasional  glimpses  of 
the  scenery.  Although  this  was  a  relief,  yet  there  was  such' 
a  fascination  in  the  scenery  that  we  could  hardly  endure  to 
have  it  shut  off.  By  and  by,  we  emerged  above  the  clouds, 
and  then,  although  we  could  not  look  into  the  depths  below, 
we  could  look  in  wonder  upon  the  upper  side  of  clouds,  be- 
neath which  we  had  lived  so  many  years.  From  time  to  time, 
we  became    conscious  of  a   change  in   the    temperature,  and 


184 


FROM  MADRAS    TO    THE  HIMALAYAS. 


gradually  drew  from  the  stock  of  clothing  we  had  with  us  vest, 
coat,  overcoat,  then  mittens  and  muffler,  and  finally  a  fur  robe. 
At  last  we  began  to  wish  for  a  stove. 

I  traveled  many  weary  miles  to  see  that  place,  but  I  have 
since  felt  that  if  it  had  been  just  to  enjoy  that  mountain  ride, 
and  then  go  back  again,  it  would  have  repaid  the  trouble. 


High  Caste  Hindu  Childken. 


AMONG  THE  MOUNTAINS' 


ARJEELING  lies  three  hundred  and  eighty-seven 
miles  north  from  Calcutta,  and  is  situated  on  a  spur 
of  the  Senchul  Mountains  which  jut  out  from  the 
main  range.  Its  population  varies  greatly  according 
to  the  season.  In  summer  its  cottages  are  all  filled  with  peo- 
ple from  Calcutta  and  other  parts,  but  in  winter  there  are  any 
number  of  them  "to  let."  A  large  sanitarium  is  located  here, 
conducted  by  the  government,  and  patronized  very  liberally 
b}^  invalids  who  come  here  to  receive  benefit  from  the  invigor- 
ating air.  The  treatment  does  not  vary  from  that  of  the  ordi- 
nary hospital.  The  "Woodlands"  hotel,  which  became  our 
home  for  a  few  days,  is  perched  on  the  mountain  side,  two 
hundred  feet  almost  directly  above  the  railway  station. 

In  this  country  no  traveler  carries  his  own  luggage.  Gen- 
erally he  is  accompanied  by  his  own  servant,  who  takes  charge 
of  such  matters  ;  but  if  this  is  not  the  case,  upon  alighting 
from  the  train  he  is  at  once  surrounded  by  a  pushing,  bawling 
crowd  of  "bearers"  (a  caste)  who  jostle  and  scold  each  other 
to  get  their  hands  on  valise,  bundle,  trunk,  or  whatever  he 
may  possess.  They  cunningly  divide  the  packages  among 
themselves,  so  that  as  many  as  possible  may  earn  something, 
unless  this  ruse  is  headed  off  by  the  traveler  who,  in  authori- 
tative tone  and  gestures,  commands  the  whole  pack  to  lay  his 
goods  down,  and  indicates  one  man  whom  he  is  willing  to  pay. 
and  let  him  divide  it  up  as  he  chooses.  The  result  is  that  he 
takes  the  lot.     I  found  it  useless  to  try  any  other  course  ;  no 

[185] 


Y. 

W 
Q 


o 


BEARERS.  187 

matter  how  independent  and  democratic  a  person  may  be  at 
home  ,  here  he  must  recognize  the  multitude  of  poor  wretches 
who  depend  for  the  most  meager  support  with  which  it  is  pos- 
sible to  sustain  life,  upon  their  opportunities  to  render  little 
services,  and  receive  therefor  but  a  trifle,  which  it  is  really 
cruel  to  deny  them.  These  people  being  always  at  hand,  a 
white  man  rarely  lifts  his  A'alise  or  carries  a  package,  for  he 
finds  the  nuisance  of  a  crowd  following  him  if  he  undertakes 
to  do  his  own  work,  to  be  greater  than  he  cares  to  endure  for 
the  sake  of  the  cent  or  two  with  which  he  can  hire  the  work 
done  ;  besides,  he  can  thus  satisfy  popular  custom,  and  perhaps 
help  a  starving  family. 

The  bearers  at  Darjeeling  were  mostly  young  girls.  And 
as  this  was  my  first  experience,  it  seemed  a4ittle  ungallant  to 
see  them  load  up  with  heavy  packages.  But  I  finally  yielded 
to  what  seemed  the  inevitable,  and  a  fine  specimen  of  girlhood 
about  sixteen  years  of  age  proceeded  to  load  my  possessions 
upon  her  back.  I  proposed  to  divide  the  load  between  us,  but 
she  would  not  listen  to  it,  so  I  started  to  climb  the  steep  path. 
It  was  soon  necessary,  in  the  thin  air,  for  me  to  stop  for 
breath,  but  those  Bhutian  damsels,  loaded  with  trunks  and 
valises,  walked  nimbly  past  without  waiting  for  the  empty- 
handed  travelers  who  lay  panting  by  the  wayside. 

Any  attempt  to  describe  the  grandeur  of  the  scenery  in 
the  midst  of  which  Darjeeling  is  situated  would  be  vain.  The 
next  morning  after  arriving  was  the  Sabbath.  After  taking 
ckota  hazri  (little  breakfast)  upon  arising,  according  to  univer- 
sal custom,  I  went  to  the  top  of  Mount  Jalopin  immediately 
above  the  hotel.  It  was  yet  early,  the  sun  not  having  come 
in  sight  from  behind  the  mountains.  But  it  has  a  good  excuse 
for  its  tardiness,  seeing  that  the  mountains  are  twenty  thou- 
sand feet  in  height.  The  pen  hesitates  to  undertake  the  task 
of  describing  the  glorious  scene  which  was  now  spread  before 


188  AMONG    THE  MOUNTAINS. 

me.  I  was  standing  seven  thousand  and  five  hundred  feet 
above  the  sea,  on  the  point  of  a  short  range  of  foot-hills.  From 
northwest  to  southwest,  swinging  around  to  the  east,  the  gi- 
gantic mountains  formed  an  amphitheater  crowned  with  everlast- 
ing snow.  In  the  small  opening  of  the  circle  to  the  west  lay 
the  dark  recesses  of  the  Ranjit  valley,  in  which,  thousands  of 
feet  below,  lay  heavy  banks  of  motionless  clouds. 

In  the  mountain  wall  are  not  less  than  eight  peaks,  the 
lowest  of  which  rises  twentv-two  thousand  feet  above  the  sea. 
To  the  north  was  old  Kanchanjanga,  w^hose  hoary  head  reaches 
the  height  of  twenty-eight  thousand  seven  hundred  and  fifty 
feet,  or  nearly  five  and  a  half  miles  perpendicularly.  Just  be- 
hind this  monster,  but  out  of  sight  from  our  standpoint,  sits 
her  slightly  superior  neighbor,  Mount  Everest,  three  hundred 
feet  higher,  the  highest  peak  in  the  world.  These  peaks  were 
covered  with  the  purest  snow;  and  as  the  sun  rose  slowly 
behind  them,  their  outlines  shone  like  burnished  gold,  while 
the  immaculate  wdiiteness  of  their  snowy  sides  was  enhanced 
by  contrast  with  the  wooded  heights  and  valleys  that  inter- 
vened. 

An  inexpressible  rapture  filled  the  heart  and  bated  the 
breath  as  I  gazed  upon  the  scene  whose  beauty  and  glory  I 
never  expect  to  see  equaled  till  God  once  more  makes  all 
things  new.  It  was  a  fit  place  in  which  to  spend  a  Sabbath 
of  rest.  The  surroundings  seemed  to  brino;  the  soul  into  close 
communion  with  its  Maker.  The  greatness  of  God  never  ap- 
peared in  more  striking  contrast  with  our  own  insignificance. 
And  involuntarily  the  language  of  praise  flowed  from  heart 
and  lips. 

Such  we  apprehend  to  be  the  object  of  the  Sabbath.  It  is 
not  designed  to  be  an  empty  and  formal  ceremony,  but  to  di- 
rect the  mind  to  the  active  contemplation  of  God  as  manifested 
in  his  work,  especially  in  that  grandest  of  all  revelations,  his 


JSABBATR  CONTEMPLATIONS.  189 

Son  Jesus  Christ.  Whether  viewing  the  majestic  in  nature  or 
the  humbler  forms  of  life  and  the  minute  beauties  of  creation, 
we  may  see  in  all  things  the  handiwork  of  God  indicating  his 
character  of  wisdom,  truth,  and  love.  When  the  world  was 
made  and  perfect  harmony  and  happiness  reigned  everywhere, 
the  first  Sabbath  was  kept.  The  assembled  universe  viewed 
with  admiration  and  glad  surprise  the  work  of  the  divine  Hand. 
God  himself  beheld,  and  lo,  it  was  very  good.  Then  the 
morning  stars  sang  together,  and  all  the  sons  of  God  shouted 
for  joy.  This  song  of  praise  was  in  honor  of  Christ,  for  by 
him  and  for  him  were  all  things  made. 

The  Son  of  God  is  the  great  Creator.  Through  him  the 
Father  ordained  the  worlds.  The  apostle  tells  us  that  "  by 
him  were  all  things  created  that  are  in  heaven,  and  that  are  in 
earth,  visible  and  invisible,  whether  they  be  thrones,  or  do- 
minions, or  principalities,  or  powers  ;  all  things  were  created 
by  him,  and  for  him."  After  having  wrought  in  creation, 
Christ  rested  upon  and  then  blessed  the  seventh  day.  When 
upon  earth,  he  acknowledged  the  day  as  his  own,  saying  that 
"the  Son  of  man  is  Lord  also  of  the  Sabbath-day."  And  as 
in  the  beginning  it  was  the  sign  of  his  creative  power,  so  now 
in  these  days  it  is  also  the  sign  of  his  work  in  redemption. 
And  thus  the  original  Sabbath  stands  forever  as  the  memorial 
of  God  and  of  his  Son. 

After  some  hours  spent  in  contemplation  of  these  grand 
themes,  the  upper  air  meanwhile  becoming  warmer,  the  clouds 
began  to  rise  in  the  valleys,  till  the  curtain  was  drawn. 

As  we  are  to  have  a  brief  time  for  rest  here  in  this  grand  and 
beautiful  place,  far  above  the  simmering  plains  with  their  teem- 
ing millions  of  people,  it  will  be  our  best  opportunity  to  glance 
over  India  by  anticipation,  and  point  out  some  of  the  charac- 
teristic facts  that  our  visit  will  reveal,  but  which,  if  previously 
understood,  will  render  our  visit  more  intelligible. 


190  AM^N^G    THE  MQUNTAINS. 

Books  innumerable  have  been  written  on  India ;  and  there 
were  in  our  minds  some  vivid  images  of  bamboo  jungles, 
striped  tigers,  deadly  serpents,  gigantic  juggernauts,  burning 
widows,  and  children  thrown  to  the  alligators.  But  those  who 
for  the  first  time  come  to  India  carrying  such  notions  with 
them  will  find  a  double  task  imposed  upon  them  —  to  unlearn 
the  untrue,  as  well  as  to  learn  the  truth  of  everything  as  it  is. 
One  will  furnish  about  as  much  astonishment  as  the  other. 
To  begin  with,  here  is  this  significant  statement :  India  covers 
nearly  one  and  one-half  million  square  miles  of  territory,  or 
about  one  thirty-fifth  of  the  earth.  It  contains  nearly  three 
hundred  million  people,  or  almost  one  fifth  of  the  earth's  popu- 
lation. The  world's  average  density  of  population  is  twenty- 
eight  persons  to  the  square  mile.  For  India  the  average  is 
one  hundred  and  eighty-six  to  the  mile.  In  the  United 
States  it  is  one  tenth  of  that,  or  eighteen  to  the  mile.  In 
several  of  the  provinces  of  India  there  are  over  four  hundred 
and  fifty  people  to  the  mile.  In  Bengal  there  are  four  hun- 
dred and  seventy-four,  in  Oudh  five  hundred  and  twenty-two 
people  living  on  each  square  mile  of  territory.  The  longest 
extent  of  the  country  from  north  to  south  is  nineteen  hundred 
miles,  and  from  east  to  west  it  is  just  about  the  same.  The 
southern  extremity,  or  apex,  reaches  to  within  eight  degrees 
of  the  equator.  Its  eastern  shores  are  washed  by  the  Bay  of 
Bengal ;  its  western  coast,  by  the  Arabian  Sea.  Since  the 
cession  of  Burmah  to  Great  Britain,  and  its  union  with  the 
Indian  dependencies,  India  nearly  encircles  the  Bay  of  Bengal. 
The  long  shores  of  the  peninsula  are  washed  by  broad  seas 
which  have  in  all  ages  presented  a  barrier  to  invasion.  The 
base  of  the  pyramid  extends  into  Asia ;  but  even  here  it  is  not 
left  without  an  effectual  defense.  The  majestic  Himalayas, 
the  most  gigantic  range  of  mountains  in  the  world,  form  a 
natural,  rocky,  and  impassable  rampart  for  a  distance  of  nearly 


h5 
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53 
O 


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192  AMONG    THE  MOUNTAINS. 

two  thousand  miles.  On  the  northwest  angle  the  Hindoo-Koosh 
mountains  form  the  boundary,  but  they  constitute  one  system  ; 
and  as  they  approach  the  sea,  the  lofty  heights  degenerate 
into  elevated  plateaus,  and  are  pierced  by  various  passes. 
Through  these  have  passed  all  the  invaders  of  India. 

But  besides  forming  a  wall  of  defense  to  India,  the  Hima- 
layas serve  other  purposes  of  even  greater  practical  good. 
During  the  monsoon  season  the  strong  winds  from  the  ocean 
bring  vast  clouds  of  A'apor  over  the  land.  In  southern  India 
the  rains  begin  in  June,  gradually  extending  northward  so 
that  they  reach  the  northern  regions  a  month  later.  The 
thirsty  soil  drinks  greedily  deep  draughts  of  the  life-giving 
moisture ;  but  the  great  mass  of  the  dense  clouds  are  hurried 
off  toward  the  arid  regions  of  Thibet,  where  rain  is  almost 
unknown.  But  as  they  are  about  to  leave  India,  the  high 
mountains  present  a  staunch  barrier  to  their  further  progress. 
Being  driven  against  the  sturdy  sides  of  the  Himalayas,  or 
encircling  their  crowns,  they  are  precipitated  in  copious  rains 
on  the  foot-hills  or  piled  in  vast  drifts  and  fields  of  snow  on 
the  summits.  During  the  rainy  season,  which  extends  from 
July  to  September  inclusive,  the  southern  slopes  of  these 
mountains  have  a  phenomenal  fall  of  rain.  In  the  province  of 
Assam  the  rain-fall  is  the  heaviest  in  the  ^^orld.  The  averaaje 
annual  fall  is  over  four  hundred  inches,  and  in  18G1  it  received 
eight  hundred  and  five  inches.  This  year  there  fell  in  the 
month  of  July  three  hundred  and  sixty-six  inches.  This 
means  a  foot  of  water  a  day.  Of  course  official  figures  are 
Required  to  give  a  satisfactory  confirmation  to  such  reports, 
but  this  statement  is  based  on  such  testimony.  The  fall  for 
the  entire  year  would  have  covered  the  country  with  sixty- 
seven  feet  of  water.  The  snow  is  melted  by  the  rays  of  the 
sun  during  the  hot  part  of  the  year,  thus  dealing  out  this 
immense  store  of  moisture  to  the  thirsty  plains  below. 


CLIMATE.  193 

The  climate  of  India  divides  itself  into  two  seasons,  the 
warm  and  the  hot.  The  temperature  descends  to  the  warm 
degrees  in  the  latter  part  of  October,  and  by  the  first  of 
November  it  is  quite  endurable  with  the  mercury  in  Calcutta 
between  eighty  and  ninety  degrees  P^hrenheit.  This  is  the 
time  to  visit  India ;  and  it  is  then  that  steamships  are  crowded 
with  those  who  are  going  thither.  But  even  at  that  time  of 
year,  the  rays  of  the  sun  are  very  hot,  and  the  head  of  the 
stranger  needs  to  be  well  protected  with  a  double  umbrella 
and  a  sola  topi  hat.  This  state  of  the  weather  continues 
till  February.  During  this  time  there  is  no  rain  except  per- 
haps a  little  at  about  Christmas.  From  then  on  the  heat 
increases  until  April  and  May,  by  which  time  it  has  become 
to  white  people  a  question  of  mere  existence.  It  is  a  mistake 
to  suppose,  as  many  do,  that  there  is  an  advantage  in  being 
situated  in  the  northern  districts,  for,  on  the  contrary,  the 
f^irther  one  goes  south  the  narrower  the  land  becomes,  and  the 
greater  the  preponderance  of  the  sea  breezes.  In  June,  as 
already  mentioned,  the  rains  begin  to  come,  and  in  some  re- 
spects bring  relief,  though  in  others  this  is  the  most  trying 
season  of  all ;  for  the  heat  and  moisture  combine  to  produce 
an  atmosphere  which  many  pronounce  the  most  uncomfortal)le 
of  the  year.  Sickness  is  more  prevalent  at  this  time  than  at 
any  other. 

But,  taken  as  a  whole,  the  average  rainfall  of  the  entire 
country  is  small  and  confined  to  a  very  limited  part  of  the 
year.  To  obviate  this  difticulty,  as  far  as  possible,  the  gov- 
ernment has  aided  the  work  of  irriiiation.  It  has  caused  tlie 
construction  of  over  fifteen  hundred  miles  of  main  canals,  and 
over  six  thousand  miles  of  secondary  channels,  and  private 
effort  has  supplemented  this  to  a  very  great  extent.  Through- 
out the  northern  provinces  this  method  must  be  resorted  to  in 
order  to  secure  a  crop. 
13 


GLANCING  OVER  INDIA. 


HE  main  river  system  of  India  depends  upon  the 
Himalayas  for  its  supply.  There  are  three  magnifi- 
cent rivers  formed  from  this  unfailing  source.  They 
are  the  Indus  in  the  west,  and  the  Ganges  and  the 
Brahmapootra  in  the  north  and  east.  The  first  of  these  empties 
into  the  Arabian  Sea.  After  its  birth  in  the  Himalayas,  eight- 
een thousand  feet  above  the  sea,  it  flows  northwest  for  eight 
hundred  and  seventy  miles  to  near  the  extremity  of  the  coun- 
try, then,  taking  a  sharp  turn,  it  makes  southwest  in  a  practi- 
cally straight  course  for  nearly  a  thousand  miles.  During  this 
part  of  its  course  it  runs  parallel  with,  and  near  the  boundary 
line  of,  Afghanistan.  The  Indus  is  a  historic  stream  whose 
name  is  found  in  the  earlier  annals  of  our  race.  It  abounds 
with  crocodiles,  and  as  a  navigable  stream  has  scarcely  any 
value ;  for  though  it  conveys  to  the  ocean  a  mighty  volume  of 
water  besides  an  annual  supply  of  silt  sufficient  to  form  a  body 
of  land  forty-two  by  twenty-seven  miles,  and  forty  feet  deep, 
it  cannot  bear  the  burdens  of  commerce.  For,  after  havinii' 
received  the  water  of  several  powerful  tributaries,  its  basin  be- 
comes wide  and  flat,  sweeping  a  broad  path  through  a  sandy 
region.  Soon  its  strength  is  divided  ;  schism  arises  in  the  fed- 
eration, and  various  branches  start  out  for  themselves,  taking 
an  independent  course  to  the  sea ;  and  thus  the  parent  trunk 
is  soon  left  wnthout  power  or  prestige.  Truly,  in  union  there 
is  strength. 

[194] 


THE    GANGES.  •  195 

How  many  societies,  churches,  families,  yes,  and  individu- 
als, there  are  who  have  in  them  the  elements  of  strength  and 
the  abilities  to  accomplish  a  great  and  good  work ;  but  at  the 
point  where  usefulness  should  begin,  distraction  and  division 
come  in,  and  in  consequence  they  become  as  incompetent  of 
any  real  service  to  the  world  as  is  this  great  river. 

The  Brahmapootra  rises  and  gathers  its  strength  on  the 
northern  slopes  of  the  mountains,  or  rather,  north  of  the  south 
range,  and  between  the  two  great  ranges  which  form  the  sys- 
tem of  mountains.  It  flows  for  more  than  eight  hundred  miles 
through  this  valley  in  a  southeasterly  direction ;  then  turning 
abruptly  to  the  south,  it  breaks  through  the  mountain  wall, 
and  runs  southwest  across  the  eastern  plains  of  India,  to  pour 
its  flood  into  the  delta  of  the  Ganges. 

The  Ganges  is  one  of  the  most  celebrated  rivers  in  the 
world.  Its  principal  notoriety  comes  from  the  sacred  venera- 
tion in  which  it  is  held  by  the  Hindu  race.  They  call  it  by 
the  affectionate  title  of  "  Mai  Ganga,"  or  "  Mother  Ganges." 
All  three  of  India's  great  rivers  have  their  sources  in  the  same 
region.  The  general  course  taken  by  the  Ganges  is  south. 
With  its  tributaries,  it  forms  a  magnificent  water  system  in 
northern  India,  which  is  of  inestimable  worth  to  the  country 
that  would  otherwise  be  parched  and  useless.  For  several 
hundred  miles  the  lower  part  of  the  river  is  utilized  for  the 
purposes  of  commerce,  though  on  account  of  the  treacherous 
nature  of  the  channel  large  boats  and  steamers  are  not  used. 
But  there  are  hundreds  and  thousands  of  small,  clumsy  boats 
propelled  by  poles  in  the  hands  of  natives,  by  rude  sails,  or,  as 
is  often  the  case,  by  natives  walking  the  shores  and  tugging  at 
a  rope.  The  business  done  at  Calcutta  by  this  means  repre- 
sents a  sum  of  more  than  a  million  dollars  annually.  Two  or 
three  hundred  miles  from  the  sea  the  river  begins  to  divide 
into  independent  streams,  which  finally  become  a  network  of 


1§0  GLANCING    OVER  INDIA. 

channels,  crossing  and  rocrossing  one  another  at  every  conceiv- 
able angle,  and  all  gradually  making  their  way  to  the  Bay  of 
Bengal.  This  delta  covers  an  area  of  country  about  seventy- 
five  by  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  in  extent,  and  is  called  the 
Sunderbunds.  The  whole  region  is  a  rich  alluvial  deposit. 
The  islands  thus  formed  are  covered  by  dense  jungles  in  which 
tigers,  other  fierce  animals,  and  serpents  dwell.  The  channels 
are  inhabited  by  alligators.  But  the  government  having  done 
much  to  have  this  section  cleared  up,  it  now  supports  a  large 
population ;  for  the  soil  is  adapted  to  the  production  of  rice, 
indigo,  and  other  commodities.  The  climate,  as  would  be  sup- 
posed, is  unhealthful,  but  in  a  country  that  is  so  crowded  as 
Bengal,  people  cannot  be  fastidious  as  to  where  they  live. 

The  native  people  of  India  are  ordinarily  divided  into  two 
classes,  aboriginals  and  Aryan.  In  regard  to  the  former  it  is 
difficult  to  prove  that  the  term  is  applied  with  strict  propriety 
to  any  of  the  various  tribes  which  usually  come  under  this 
head.  Neither  history  nor  legend  give  us  authentic  testimony 
in  regard  to  their  origin  or  identity.  Among  the  earlier  frag- 
ments of  Indian  story  that  come  to  us  from  three  thousand, 
perhaps  four  thousand,  years  ago,  we  learn  that  an  energetic 
and  fair-skinned  people  from  the  northwest  came,  through  the 
passes  in  the  mountains,  down  upon  the  peaceable  and  mild  in- 
habitants of  India,  subdued  the  country,  and  became  its  rulers, 
though  they  did  not  drive  out  or  annihilate  the  original  inhabit- 
ants. This  race  of  conquerors  belongs  to  the  Japhetic,  or  Aryan, 
branch  of  the  human  family.  Their  forefathers  were  also  the 
progenitors  of  the  Greeks  and  Romans,  of  the  Teutons  and  the 
Anglo  Saxons.  They  were  our  forefathers.  In  the  old  San- 
skrit language  which  they  brought  with  them,  we  have  evidence 
of  the  consanguinity  of  the  dominant  Indian  race  and  our  own. 

Having  become  attached  to  the  country,  society  resolved 
itself  into  four  great  classes,  or  castes.     These  were  first,  the 


CASTE.  197 

Brahman?',  or  i)riest  class ;  second,  the  Rajput,  or  warrior 
caste;  third,  the  V^aisyas,  or  tillers  of  the  soil ;  and  the  Sudras, 
or  servile  class.  The  first  three  belonging  to  the  Aryan  race, 
honored  themselves  with  the  distinction  of  being  "  twice-born." 
The  Sadras  were  of  the  original  inhabitants.  They  were  of  a 
distinct  and  dark-skinned  race.  They,  being  l)ut  "once  born," 
were  regarded  with  great  contempt  by  their  superiors.  This 
was  the  beginning  of  that  great  system  of  caste  which  for  ages 
has  held  the  people  of  India  as  in  a  cast-iron  mold.  The  sys- 
tem itself  has  broadened  and  strengthened  in  order  to  retain 
its  hold  upon  the  people,  until  at  present  it  is  stated,  on  good 
authority,  that  there  are  at  least  tliirtv  thousand  distinctions 
of  caste  recognized  in  India.  In  the  Brahman  caste  alone- 
there  are  ten  thousand. 

The  Brahmans  became  philosophers  and  students  of  art  and 
science.  The  standard  grammar  of  the  Sanskrit  language  dates 
from  more  than  five  hundred  years  before  Christ.  Their  phi- 
losophy is  older  than  that  of  Greece  or  Rome,  and  in  many  re- 
spects superior.  Their  civilization  antedates  the  birth  of  the 
Anglo  Saxon  race  by  many  more  centuries  than  have  elapsed 
since  our  race  was  born.  The  Brahmans  point  with  great  pride 
to  their  ancestry,  and  repudiate  with  scorn  the  epithet  of 
"heathen"  when  applied  to  them. 

The  religions  of  India  are  many  and  diverse,  but  in  this 
sketch  we  shall  notice  but  a  few,  which,  on  account  of  their 
prominence,  require  mention.  And  just  now  we  shall  not  stop 
long  with  this,  for  we  are  soon  to  get  nearer  views  of  the  things 
of  everyday  life  in  which,  from  time  to  time,  the  religion  of  the 
people  will  attract  our  attention.  Hinduism,  the  leading  and 
most  ancient  reliaion,  numbers  as  its  votaries  over  one  hun- 
dred  and  eighty-eight  million.  The  Mohammedans  have  fifty 
million,  and  the  two  taken  together  comprise  ninet3'-four  per 
cent  of  the  entire  population  of  the  country. 


198  GLANCING    OVER  INDIA. 

The  Hindus  recognize  a  triad  of  supreme  deities  besides  an 
innumerable  class  of  secondary  gods.  From  their  most  ancient 
writings  we  gather  the  idea  that  the  first  objects  of  worship 
were  the  forces  of  nature.  But  in  these  things  the  Creator 
himself  is  revealed.  It  requires  no  extraordinary  degree  of 
astuteness  to  perceive  that  beyond  nature  there  is  a  primary 
cause ;  that  natural  objects  are  but  the  creatures  of  a  divine 
power,  whose  harmonious  actions  show  the  unity  of  that  power. 
The  Brahman  philosophers  discerning  this  creative  power,  gave 
to  it  the  name  of  Brahm.  But  they  did  not  follow  this  ray  of 
light.  They  worshiped  him  not  as  God,  but  turning  their  de- 
votions to  other  conceptions,  they  thus  worshiped  the  creature. 

Brahm  is  regarded  as  little  else  than  an  abstraction.  His 
worship  is  but  rarely  observed,  there  being  in  all  India  but 
two  or  three  temples  devoted  to  that  purpose.  Associated 
with  Brahm  are  Vishnu  the  preserver,  and  Siva  the  destroyer. 
The  worship  of  the  former  is  cheerful.  In  his  capacity  as  a 
saviour  of  his  people  he  has  passed  nine  incarnations,  in  each 
of  which  he  worked  out  some  scheme  for  temporal  salvation. 
In  his  last  mission  to  earth  he  is  known  as  Krishna.  It  is 
said  that  the  Hindus  cherish  the  expectation  of  one  more  visit 
to  earth  by  this  god,  at  which  time  he  will  restore  his  people, 
and  establish  his  kingdom. 

In  this  character  we  have  one  of  Satan's  counterfeits  of  the 
true  Saviour  of  mankind.  All  men  are  brought  to  feel  their 
need  of  divine  interposition,  of  a  saving  power  that  does  not 
originate  in  human  weakness ;  hence  it  is  the  work  of  the 
enemy  to  see  that  this  want  is  supplied  by  a  fraud,  which  in 
many  respects  must  resemble  the  true.  Our  Saviour  is  from 
heaven.  He  has  taken  upon  himself  man's  nature,  and  lived 
and  died  for  us.  He  is  coming  again.  He  will  at  that  time 
raise  the  dead  who  sleep  in  him.  He  will  take  to  himself  his 
power  and  reign,  and  of  his  kingdom  there  will  be  no   end. 


HINDU  DEITIES.  199 

Many  true-hearted  Christians  believe  that  this  event  is  draw- 
ing near,  and  the  Hindus,  too,  are  now  looking  for  the  return  of 
their  king.  It  does  seem  that  the  truth  of  Jesus'  second  com- 
ing would  be  readily  received  by  this  people  who  entertain 
such  ideas.  But  on  the  other  hand,  this  near  approach  to  the 
truth  is  often  the  most  dangerous  of  delusions,  because  those 
who  hold  such  view^s  are  with  great  difficulty  convinced  of  the 
necessity  of  the  truth. 

Siva  is  feared.  His  worship  is  frequently  gruesome,  and 
always  austere.  In  his  character  he  embraces  the  reproduc- 
tiA^e  faculties  as  v;ell  as  those  of  destruction.  Consequently 
the  worship  of  animals  is  associated  with  him.  It  is  more  nat- 
ural for  us  to  fear  calamities  than  to  court  favors.  That  is,  if 
some  power  will  ward  off  the  evils  of  life,  and  preserve  us  in 
health  and  prosperity,  we  will  look  out  for  the  blessings.  Pro- 
ceeding upon  this  principle,  the  Hindus  venerate  Siva  far  more 
than  either  of  his  consorts.  Hunter's  history  of  the  Indian 
people  thus  concisely  describes  this  famous  and  hideous  mon- 
strosity :  — 

"  Siva,  at  once  the  destroyer  and  reproducer,  represented 
profound  philosophical  doctrines,  and  was  early  recognized  as 
being  in  a  special  sense  the  god  of  the  Brahmans.  To  them  he 
was  the  symbol  of  death  as  merely  a  change  of  life.  On  the 
other  hand,  his  terrible  aspects,  preserved  in  his  long  list  of 
names,  from  the  Roarer  (Rudra)  of  the  Veda  to  the  Dread  One 
(Bhima)  of  the  modern  Hindu  pantheon,  well  adapted  him  to 
the  religion  of  fear  prevalent  among  the  ruder  non-Aryan  races. 

''  Siva,  in  his  two-fold  character,  thus  became  the  deit}^ 
alike  of  the  highest  and  of  the  low^est  castes.  He  is  the 
^lahd-deva,  or  great  god  of  modern  Hinduism  ;  and  his  wife  is" 
Devi,  pre-eminently  ihc  goddess.  His  universal  symbol  is 
the  linga,  or  emblem  of  reproduction  ;  his  sacred  beast,  the 
bull,  is  connected  with  the  same  idea  ;  a  trident  tops  his  tem- 


[200] 


KUTAB   MiNAK, 

An  Historical  Tower  near  Delhi. 


MOHAMMEDANISM.  '  201 

pies.  His  images  partake  of  his  double  nature.  The  Brah- 
manical  conception  of  Siva  is  represented  by  his  attitude  as  a 
fair-skinned  man,  seated  in  profound  thought,  the  symbol  of 
the  fertilizing  Ganges  above  his  head,  and  the  bull  (emblem 
alike  of  procreation  and  of  Aryan  plow-tillage)  near  at  hand. 
The  wilder  non-Aryan  aspects  of  his  character  are  signified  by 
his  necklace  of  skulls,  his  collar  of  twining  serpents,  his  tiger- 
skin,  and  his  club  with  a  human  head  at  the  end,  Siva  has 
five  faces  and  four  arms.  His  wife,  in  like  manner,  appears  in 
her  Aryan  or  Brahmanical  form  as  Uma,  '  light,'  a  gentle  god- 
dess and  the  type  of  high-born  loveliness  ;  in  her  composite 
character  as  Durga,  a  golden-colored  woman,  beautiful  but 
menacing,  riding  on  a  tiger ;  and  in  her  terrible  non-Aryan 
aspects  as  Kali,  a  black  fury  of  a  hideous  countenance,  drip- 
ping with  blood,  crowned  with  snakes,  and  hung  round  with 
skulls." 

Mohammedanism  had  its  rise  in  Arabia,  early  in  the 
seventh  century.  Before  it  was  a  hundred  years  old,  it  was 
carried  by  conquest  into  Sind,  the  northwest  province  of  India. 
Subsequent  to  1000  a.  d.  a  strong  tide  of  Islamism  set  in 
toward  India,  and  for  a  long  time  nearly  submerged  Hinduism, 
though  it  never  subdued  or  conquered  it.  In  Southern  India 
Hinduism  always  predominated  ;  but  as  we  proceed  to  the 
other  extremity  of  the  country,  we  find  even  at  the  present 
day  Mohammedan  influences  continually  becoming  stronger ; 
and  by  the  time  we  reach  Delhi  the  predominance  is  in  favor 
of  the  Mussulman.  Not  a  very  amicable  spirit  exists  between 
the  two  parties,  whose  hatred  and  jealousy  not  infrequently 
break  out  in  bloodshed  and  violence. 

By  repeated  invasions  and  conquests  from  714  a.  d.  to  the 
middle  of  the  sixteenth  century,  jMohammedan  power  was 
greatly  increased  in  India,  though  after  each  onslaught  Hindu- 
ism would  recover  nearly  all  that  it  had  lost  by  the  remarkable 


202  ■      GLANCING    OVER  INDIA. 

vitality  which  it  possessed.  Among  these  invasions  the  one 
of  Timoor  the  Tartar,  or  Tamerhme,  is  perhaps  the  most  noted 
in  history.  He  was  the  first  of  the  famous  Moghuls.  After 
his  conquest  of  the  country,  he  returned  to  Central  Asia,  and 
Hinduism  soon  filled  again  its  usual  place.  But  in  1526, 
Babar,  a  direct  descendant  of  Timoor,  overran  India  with  an 
irresistible  force,  and  established  the  Moghul  empire,  which 
extended  to  the  Gangetic  delta.  But  the  Arabs,  who  had 
long  lived  in  India,  hated  the  new  conquerors  more  than  the 
Hindus,  and  after  the  death  of  Babar,  drove  his  son  and  suc- 
cessor back  into  Asia.  But  the  next  in  the  Moohul  line  was 
the  celebrated  Akbar.  He  was  born  in  1542,  and  in  his  four- 
teenth year  led  the  army  of  his  fjither  to  decisive  victory,  and 
regained  for  him  the  throne  of  Delhi.  He  is  regarded  as  the 
real  founder  of  the  Moghul  empire.  By  conquest,  but  more 
by  the  wise  policy  of  conciliation,  he  carried  his  power  into 
Southern  India.  His  grandson.  Shah  Jahan,  who  reigned  after 
an  interval  of  twenty-two  years  from  the  death  of  Akbar, 
imitating  the  great  emperor  in  prowess  and  wisdom,  extended 
the  dominion  to  the  south.  He  was  the  famous  builder  whose 
work  we  shall  have  opportunity  to  examine  later  on. 

As  before  stated,  the  Buddhists  form  no  considerable  por- 
tion of  the  population  of  the  country.  But  the  Jains,  whose 
principal  center  of  numbers  and  worship  is  at  Mount  Abu,  in 
Rajputana,  Western  India,  are  an  off-shoot  of  that  ancient 
religion,  and  retain  much  of  the  same  forms  of  worship  and  be- 
lief. They  number,  according  to  the  last  census,  about  one 
hundred  and  twenty-two  millions.  Of  Christians,  real  and 
nominal,  there  are,  it  is  said,  one  million,  seven  hundred  and 
fifty  thousand.  Of  Parsees,  there  are  eighty-five  thousand, 
seven  eighths  of  whom  live  in  Bombny. 


JOURNEY  RESUMED. 


HE  Sunday  bazaar  in  Darjeeling  is  one  of  the  sights 
of  India.     On  that  day  the  tea-pickers  from  the  sur- 
rounding phmtations  are   at   liberty.      Tea-gardens 
cover  the  hills  in  eA'ery  direction.     The  pickers  are 
mostly  people  of  the  hills,  from  the  various  tribes  of  Lepchas 


^, 


Bhutias,  and  Ghoorkas.  These  are  strong,  vigorous  races,  dis- 
tinguished from  those  of  the  plains  by  their  robust  figures  and 
active  motions.  Having  received  their  pay  for  the  week,  they 
come  to  purchase  their  supplies,  and  to  invest  a  few  coppers  in 
whatever  may  please  them.  Supplies  are  brought  in  by  Thib- 
etans, Mongolians,  and  Indians  from  the  plains.  From  every 
mountain  path  streams  of  people  emerge,  until  by  noon  there 
is  a  surging  mass  of  humanity  numbering  many  thousands,  fill- 
ing the  central  portion  of  the  town. 

To  one  standing  upon  the  hillside  above  the  crowd,  the 
sound  of  their  voices  comes  up  like  the  sound  of  many  waters. 
As  we  mingle  with  the  throng,  we  meet  men  and  women  from 
every  nation, —  white,  black,  brown,  and  yellow  in  color;  and 
on  that  day  there  was  at  least  one  "green"  man  there,  for  I 
had  never  seen  such  a  motley  crowd  of  people,  each  one  dressed 
in  the  style  peculiar  to  his  country.  And  these  were  outdone 
in  point  of  strangeness  by  the  curious  trinkets  and  articles  use- 
ful and  otherwise,  which  they  exposed  for  sale. 

The  climate  of  Darjeeling  is  salubrious,  the  temperature  in 
summer  not  rising  above  eighty,  nor  descending  below  thirty- 
five  in  winter.     There  are  many  desirable  places  of  residence 

[  203  ] 


204  JOURNEY  RESUMED. 

among  the  foot-hills  of  the  mountains,  where  a  semi-tropical 
climate  may  be  enjoyed  ;  where  numerous  ever-flowing  streams 
of  purest  water  from  the  snows  above  come  tumbling  down  the 
mountain-sides ;  where  trees,  plants,  fruits,  and  flowers  of 
every  variety  grow  in  luxuriance.  After  spending  a  few  days 
in  this  delightful  place,  I  almost  dreaded  to  return  to  the  heat 
and  bustle  of  the  city.  But  time  was  pressing,  and  I  had  yet 
far  to  go. 

As  we  glide  along  over  the  level  plains  toward  Calcutta,  let 
us  take  glimpses  of  the  lowly  Indian  life  which  we  see  on  every 
hand.  India  is  emphatically  an  agricultural  country.  That 
this  must  be  so  is  apparent  when  we  consider  the  vast  popula- 
tion which  the  land  is  called  upon  to  support.  Here  in  Ben- 
gal, taking  the  cities  and  country  together,  there  are  nearly 
five  hundred  people  to  the  square  mile,  all  of  whom  have  to  be 
supplied  from  this  small  area  of  soil,  for  the  Indian  is  not  an 
importer  of  food. 

For  economy  of  land,  as  well  as  for  mutual  protection,  the 
houses  of  the  farmers  are  gathered  in  villages.  These  are 
clustered  as  compactly  together  as  possible,  so  that  to  form  a 
house,  three  walls  are  all  that  will  have  to  be  built,  and  in  some 
cases  not  so  many.  The  material  consists  either  of  clear  mud 
or  of  mud  mixed  with  straw  and  dried  in  the  sun.  The  walls 
are  a  foot  in  thickness,  and  without  windows.  The  roof  is 
thatched  or  covered  with  bamboo  leaves.  The  houses  are 
without  floors,  and  almost  without  furniture.  In  the  latter 
line,  a  woman  could  easily  take  on  her  back  or  under  her  arm 
the  ordinary  outfit  of  her  home.  For  chairs  and  tables  they 
have  no  use.  In  some  cases  a  low,  square  frame  lashed  with 
strips  of  bamboo  or  leather  serves  for  a  bed  at  night  and  a  sit- 
ting-place by  day,  but  these  are  limited  in  number  and  are  con- 
sidered luxuries  rather  than  necessities.  The  usual  bed  is  a 
piece  of  matting  upon  a  little  bank  of  clay  across  one  side  of  the 


FARMING.  205 

one  room  of  the  house,  or  more  likely  upon  the  ground  in  front 
of  the  abode.  There  are  thousands  of  such  houses  as  these 
not  onl}^  in  the  country  villages,  or  '*■  bustis,"  but  in  Calcutta, 
Bombay,  and  all  the  other  cities.  It  is  probably  safe  to  say 
that  three  quarters  of  the  people  of  India  live  in  no  better 
houses  than  those  just  described. 

The  land  is  generally  cultivated  in  small  parcels,  each  man's 
lot  being  divided  by  boundaries  which  to  a  casual  observer  are 
invisible.  Large  fields  of  ghendri,  sugar-cane,  and  rice,  or 
"paddy,"  covering  sometimes  hundreds  of  acres,  stretch  away 
on  the  plains,  and  they  seem  almost  alive  with  men  and  women 
who  are  carefully  cultivating  the  growing  crops.  Much  of  the 
labor  bestowed  is  spent  in  irrigation.  For  this  purpose  the 
water  is  elevated  out  of  the  ditches  by  various  rude  devices 
into  small  channels  which  overflow  the  soil.  Perhaps  the  most 
common  method  is  for  two  men  or  women  to  swing  a  basket 
between  them,  suspended  by  ropes.  The  operators  stand  about 
twelve  feet  apart,  and  dextrously  keep  the  basket  in  motion, 
scooping  it  full  of  water,  and  emptying  it  upon  the  land  after 
raising  it  two  or  three  feet. 

Cattle  are  numerous,  but  of  the  small  and  hump-shouldered 
variety  peculiar  to  the  country.  In  shows  and  zoological 
gardens  they  are  styled  the  "  sacred  cattle  of  India."  They 
are  nothing  more  than. the  ordinary  cattle,  though  the  speci- 
mens are  generally  larger  than  the  average.  The  cows  have 
small  udders,  and  yield  only  a  quart  or  two  at  a  milking. 
Through  ages  they  have  degenerated  until  they  are  almost 
worthless.  Goats  are  plenty,  but  horses  are  scarce  except  in 
the  cities,  where  a  few  are  used  for  gharries  and  other  car- 
riages. But  even  in  this  vocation,  they  have  a  formidable 
rival  in  the  agile  little  bullocks,  which,  hitched  to  their  jaunty 
carts,  will  usually  outstrip  the  horses.  For  burdens,  oxen  or 
donkeys  are  employed. 


Q 


< 
O 

o 
0. 


o 
o 

ta 
o 

CO 


< 

Q 
12; 


POVERTY.  207 

The  agricultural  implements  are  of  the  most  primitive  kind. 
They  are  the  wooden  point  and  prong  for  a  plow,  and  the 
same  threshing  instruments  and  harrow  that  are  seen  in  old 
Bible  pictures.  Oxen  tread  out  the  corn,  and  women  grind  at 
the  mill  just  as  they  did  in  those  countries  four  thousand 
years  ago.  In  the  cities  are  large  mills  where  scores  of 
women  are  employed  in  grinding  meal  for  the  market ;  and  it 
is  really  surprising  to  witness  the  proficiency  of  such  rude 
means  in  the  hands  of  the  simple  natives.  The  meal  may  be 
had  of  any  degree  of  fineness  desired,  and  it  is  ground  as  even 
and  true  as  our  modern  mills  can  do  it.  About  sixty  pounds' 
weight  of  fine  meal  is  a  day's  work  for  two  women. 

Some  have  had  the  impression  that  India  is  a  land  of 
wealth, —  that  pearls  and  riches  may  almost  be  picked  up. 
On  the  contrary,  it  is  a  land  of  poverty  and  destitution.  It  is 
stated,  upon^ood  authority,  that  there  are  fifty  million  people 
in  that  country  who  never  have  had  their  hunger  satisfied. 
There  appears  to  be,  sad  to  say,  no  reason  to  doubt  the  state- 
ment. The  ordinary  wages  of  the  working  man  is  about  ten 
cents  a  day.  It  is  more  frequently  less,  than  more,  than  that. 
Women  working  at  the  mill,  or  carrying  hod  or  stone  on  build- 
ings, or  doing  navvy  work  on  railways  get  three  to  five  cents  a 
day.  And  upon  these  pittances  families  must  be  supported. 
There  are  many,  of  course,  who  cannot  obtain  work  even  at 
those  prices.  From  such  an  income,  it  will  be  seen  that  there 
is  no  chance  to  procure  anything  more  than  the  bare  necessi- 
ties of  existence.  This  does  not  leave  much  to  lay  out  upon 
clothing  or  furniture.  The  household  utensils  usually  consist 
of  a  metal  platter,  from  which  the  family  eat  in  common,  and 
a  few  brazen  jars  or  earthen  water-pots. 

In  a  country  where  rice  is  raised  in  great  quantities,  and 
where  there  are  much  cheaper  varieties  than  the  white  rice 
which  we  purchase,  many  cannot  afford  to  eat  even  the  cheap- 


208  JOURNEY  RESUMED. 

est  qualities.  In  such  cases  millet  meal,  or  the  meal  of  what 
is  called  ghendri,  a  seed  that  grows  like  broom-corn  and  is  very 
prolific,  is  taken  as  a  material  for  bread.  Sometimes  the  seed 
is  eaten  raw  or  roasted,  but  generally  it  is  ground  into  meal, 
and  either  boiled,  or  made  into  thin  cakes  with  water,  and 
baked.  This,  with  a  few  cheap  vegetables,  forms  the  sole  sub- 
sistence of  a  great  many  families.  In  other  cases  rice  is  ob- 
tained and  dried  fish  occasionally.  The  man  eats  first;  and  if 
there  is  anything  left,  the  women  and  children  have  it. 

Forks  and  knives  are  unknown.  The  food  is  taken  with 
the  fingers.  Rice  is  generally  eaten  with  a  vegetable  curry, 
or  dressing,  rendered  pungent  by  various  condiments.  The 
two  are  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  fingers,  then  rolled  into 
little  balls  by  the  thumb  and  two  fingers  of  the  right  hand, 
and  deftly  tossed  into  the  mouth,  for  the  hand  must  not  touch 
the  lips. 

Hotel  life  in  India  is  not  unpleasant  in  some  respects. 
There  are,  upon  all  the  routes  of  popular  travel,  hostelries 
kept  as  nearly  after  the  English  style  as  circumstances  will 
permit.  A  few  years  ago  dependence  was  mainly  upon  what 
are  called  "  dak  bun2i;alows."  Bungalow  is  the  term  for  house, 
and  is  now  applied  to  the,  residences  of  Europeans.  "Dak" 
(pronounced  dawk)  means  a  stage  of  a  journey,  that  is,  a  day's 
travel.  These  places  were  built  by  the  government,  and  left 
in  chnrsxe  of  a  servant,  who  let  rooms  to  travelers  at  a  nominal 
sum.  As  the  traveler  furnished  his  own  bed,  and  generally 
his  own  food,  he  needed  only  shelter.  But  if  he  needed  food, 
it  was  furnished  at  a  small  additional  sum  by  the  men  in 
charge. 

These  bungalows  are  still  maintained  in  some  cities,  and 
form  very  quiet  and  desirable  places  to  stop.  But  at  the 
hotels  there  is  a  large  force  of  servants  employed,  and  the 
wants  of  the  guest  are  carefully  attended  to.     The  servants 


SERVAXTS. 


209 


are  men,  and  as  they  wear  no  shoes,  they  glide  noiselessly  in 
and  about  the  rooms.  They  become  particularly  attentive 
about  the  time  the  guest  is  to  leave,  when  one  finds  himself 
the  recipient  of  many  honors  in  the  way  of  polite  salaams. 
The  easiest  way  out  of  the  difficulty  is  to  go  to  the  clerk, 
hand  him  a  couple  of  rupees  with  instructions  to  divide  it  up, 
and  so  let  him  settle  the  matter.  Otherwise  the  servants  do 
not  hesitate  to  besiege  the  carriage  as  you  drive  away,  insist- 
ing upon  being  "remembered." 

These  servants  are  kind,  docile,  and  obliging,  and  for  one  I 
acknowledge  that  I  felt  a  strong  sympathy  for  them,  and  a  de- 
sire to  see  them  benefited.  It  is  very  customary  to  see  no- 
tices in  the  rooms  and  corridors  to  the  effect  that  "  guests  are 
requested  not  to  strike  the  servants."  But  this  does  not  pre- 
vent their  getting  many  kicks  and  cuffs  from  white  men  who 
have  far  more  temper  than  sense  of  right,  or  any  other  kind  of 
sense.  The  poor  servants  take  these  things  meekly,  and  still 
trv  to  do  their  best. 


"Women  Grinding. 


14 


IN  AND  ABOUT  CALCUTTA. 


r^N  Calcutta  there  is  enough  to  be  seen  to  employ  one's 
time  for  many  clays.  The  bazaars  and  markets  are 
places  of  interest.  In  the  city  there  are  fewer  temples 
of  great  renown  than  in  others  which  we  shall  visit. 
Six  miles  from  the  city  is  the  famous  Kali  ghat  (gawt),  where 
is  located  the  temple  of  Kali,  the  black  and  terrible  wife  of 
Siva.  My  visit  to  this  gruesome  place  was  made  just  at  night- 
fall. A  line  of  street-cars  runs  out  to  the  place,  and  it  was 
their  annoying  sluggishness  that  made  my  arrival  so  late. 

I  found  myself  in  a  disgusting  scene  of  filth  and  blood,  sur- 
rounded  by  vicious-looking  priests  and  worshipers,  and  entirely 
without  a  guide  or  a  friend.  I  arrived  at  the  hour  when  the 
temple  was  closed  to  give  the  idol  a  chance  to  take  a  nap ;  at 
the  end  of  that  time  she  was  awakened,  and  the  orgies  began. 
Goats  and  other  victims  are  slain  to  appease  her  wrath.  Thou- 
sands of  pilgrims  from  all  India  throng  this  awful  shrine  from 
day  to  day,  and  in  times  past,  human  victims  have  been  sacri- 
ficed to  the  bloody  deity.  Her  image  is  as  black  as  night ; 
she  wears  a  necklace  of  human  skulls ;  in  her  left  hand  she 
holds  a  reeking  skull  by  the  hair,  and  in  her  right  the  im23le- 
ments  of  destruction  and  death.  To  make  the  picture  more 
horrid  her  tongue  protrudes  and  rests  upon  her  breast. 

Such  is  the  object  before  which  millions  of  our  fellow-be- 
ings to-day  are  bowing  in  abject  fear,  and  to  which  they  are 
making  offerings  to  appease  her  wrath  and  avert  calamities. 
It  was  with  a  great  sense  of  relief  that  I  left  this  place,  dimly 

[210] 


DEVOTEES. 


211 


lighted  with  lamps, 
and  reeking  witli 
the  blood  and  filth 
of  heathendom.  At 
times  the  worshi}) 
of  this  goddess  is 
pollnted  not  only 
with  physical  but 
with  moral  filth. 

When  leaving 
the  place,  I  met 
a  religious  devotee 
crawling  upon  his 
hands  and  knees 
toward  the  temple, 
and  was  told  that 
he  had  come  fur 
hundreds  of  miles 
in  that  way  to  show 
his  devotion.  This 
class  of  men  is 
A^ery  celebrated  for 
their   piety,   which  ^^  Fakir. 

is  shown  chiefly  by  the  most  severe  forms  of  painful  penance. 
They  may  be  seen  sitting  or  standing  with  one  or  both  arms 
held  straight  upward,  in  which  position  these  members  have 
been  held  until  they  become  as  rigid  and  dry  as  a  stick.  For 
perhajis  fifteen  or  twenty  years  these  arms  have  never  been 
moved  from  that  position.  Others  wear  iron  collars  around 
their  necks,  from  which  long  branches  protrude,  preventing 
their  lying  down.  Some  will  sit  for  years  upon  a  pillar  from 
which  they  never  come  down.  I  saw  them  sitting  in  the  mud 
of  the  Ganges  with   no 'other  clothing  on  than  a   thick  coat 


> 


Q 

a 
a 
o 
< 

CO 

a 


WORSHIPING    THE  RIVER.  213 

of  clay ;  and  there  they  will  sit  for  months,  admired  and 
worshiped  by  the  credulous  j^eople  who  attribute  almost  divine 
honor  to  such   devotion. 

These  characters  are  called  "  fakirs."  Many  of  them  are 
men  of  thought  and  education,  so  far  as  their  heathen  philoso- 
phy can  be  said  to  educate  the  mind.  They  reason  with  great 
volubility  on  the  virtue  of  their  works,  and  reject  with  scorn 
any  intimation  that  their  sacrifice  has  no  merit  for  the  cleans- 
ing of  sin.  It  is  the  old  doctrine  of  salvation  by  works  wrought 
out  to  its  ultimate  conclusion,  which  mav  be  seen  in  the  asceti- 
cism  of  monkery  and  the  penances  of  the  Catholic  Church. 
Any  attempt  at  working  out  salvation,  or  obtaining  it  in  any 
other  way  than  by  the  grace  and  mercy  of  God  through  Christ, 
will  only  sink  the  individual  deeper  in  the  mire  of  human  help- 
lessness. Obedience  to  God's  law  is  the  correct  criterion  of 
righteousness,  but  this  can  be  wrought  in  us  only  by  the  power 
of  faith,  and  through  the  merits  of  Him  in  whose  righteousness 
alone  it  is  possible  for  us  ever  to  be  made  perfect. 

The  most  interestinji:  scenes  in  Calcutta  are  to  be  witnessed 
on  the  banks  of  the  sacred  river  which  flows  bv  the  western 
portion  of  the  city.  For  miles  the  banks  are  composed  of 
bathing  glials  (steps),  whither,  early  in  the  morning,  tens  of 
thousands  of  devoted  worshipers  throng  to  wash  away  their 
sins  in  the  waters  of  "  Mother  Ganfires."  It  is  an  interesting 
sight  to  see  men  and  women  thus  engaged,  some  in  sport  and 
others  in  devotion.  Upon  the  banks  sit  the  priests  with  pots 
of  paint,  ready  to  mark  the  bathers  as  they  emerge,  with  the 
sign  of  the  god  whom  they  particularly  espouse.  These  marks 
consist  of  small  dots  or  stripes  of  paint  upon  their  forehead  or 
right  arm.  They  offer  an  oblation  of  water  at  the  foot  of  the 
sacred  bo-tree,  or  at  some  of  the  shrines  which  abound  in 
the  vicinity,  and  return  to  their  homes  bearing  a  little  cruse  of 
the  sacred  water. 


A 


BURNING  THE  DEAD.  215 

Not  far  from  the  great  bridge  which  crosses  the  river  to  the 
city  of  Howrah,  is  a  burning  ghat  where  the  Hindu  dead  are 
disposed  of.  It  is  a  small  inclosure  measuring  perhaps  one 
hundred  feet  by  forty  in  size.  Through  the  middle  a  row  of 
fires  is  kept  burning  nearly  all  the  time,  for  on  the  average, 
not  less  than  sixty  bodies  are  consumed  here  every  day.  At 
the  time  of  my  visit,  there  were  four  fires  in  different  stages  of 
burning.  At  one  place  a  woman  was  stoically  poking  the 
remains  of  a  half-burned  body  which,  we  were  told,  was  the 
remains  of  her  little  girl.  At  the  farther  end  a  funeral  pyre 
was  in  preparation.  The  w^ood  was  in  readiness,  and  the  corpse 
of  a  young  wife  lay  upon  a  stretcher  beside  it.  The  husband 
was  being  shaven  of  every  hair  upon  his  head  except  a  small 
scalp-lock  which  the  Brahman  never  loses.  This  being  done, 
the  corpse  was  carried  to  the  water  and  washed,  its  clothing 
changed,  and  after  immersion  in  the  sacred  river,  returned  to 
the  altar  and  placed  thereon.  Wood  was  added  until  the  body 
was  entirely  covered.  Dry  rushes  and  kindling  material  had 
been  placed  beneath  the  wood  ;  and  w^hen  all  w^as  ready,  the 
husband  took  a  bunch  of  long,  dry  reeds,  which  he  lighted  at 
the  sacred  fire  kept  for  the  purpose.  Holding  the  fire  over 
the  body,  he  passed  several  times  swiftly  around  the  pile, 
then  thrust  the  blaze  into  the  kindlino,  and  the  whole  mass 
was  soon  afire.  The  terrible  sights  and  W'Orse  smells  having 
by  this  time  thoroughly  demoralized  nerves  and  stomach,  a 
hasty  retreat  was  necessary. 

During  all  the  time,  a  voluble  priest  was  extolling  the  ex- 
cellences of  the  Hindu  system  to  the  disparagement  of  the 
Christian  religion.  I  asked  how  it  was  possible  for  the 
mother  and  the  husband  to  perform  such  tasks  with  so  little 
manifestation  of  feeling.  The  reply  was  that  the  souls  having 
immediately  left  the  bodies  after  death,  Avere  now  visiting 
other  realms,  and  would  soon  inhabit  other  creatures.     Indeed, 


'216  IN  AND  ABOUT  CALCUTTA. 

the  whole  system  rests  largely  upon  the  doctrine  of  metempsy- 
chosis, or  transmigration  of  souls.  The  ordinary  Hindu  be- 
lieves that  there  are  several  million  transformations  throuirh 
which  he  must  pass,  before  he  Vv'ill  be  absorbed  into  deity, 
though  by  meritorious  acts  the  journey  is  greatly  shortened. 

Evil  spirits  and  good  spirits  act  a  very  prominent  part  in 
all  the  affairs  of  life.  All  these  being  representatives  of  gods, 
they  become  the  real  objects  of  worship.  Thus  through  de- 
monology,  spiritualism,  transmigration,  and  various  other  mani- 
festations, the  dogma  of  the  immortality  of  the  soul  con- 
tributes to  this  great  deception,  as  indeed  it  does  to  nearly 
every  other  system  of  error,  the  foundation  and  substance  of 
superstitious  beliefs.  The  counterpart  of  modern  Spiritualism 
is  found  in  those  oriental  religions.  It  is  the  evident  work 
of  Satan  with  signs  and  lying  wonders. 

The  only  sure  antidote  for  such  deadly  poison,  either  in 
heathen  or  in  Christian  countries,  is  the  great  truth  of  immor- 
tality and  eternal  life  through  faith  in  Jesus  Christ  alone. 
When  man  fell  from  the  favor  of  God,  he  lost  his  right  to  the 
tree  of  life  and  to  immortality.  Cherubim  guarded  the  way 
to  that  life-giving  tree,  lest  man  should  put  forth  his  hand  and 
take  of  the  tree  of  life,  eat,  and  live  forever.  Then  the  gospel 
of  salvation  and  eternal  life  through  Christ  was  revealed,  in 
which  we  are  taught  that  he  that  hath  the  Son  of  God  hath 
eternal  life,  and  without  him  there  is  no  life.  The  Bible 
plainly  teaches  that  the  dead  know  not  anything ;  that  death 
is  a  sleep ;  that  the  grave  is  a  state  of  utter  unconsciousness. 
Therefore,  every  form  of  error  built  upon  the  existence  of  dis- 
embodied spirits  falls  hopelessly  to  the  ground.  If  men  would 
believe  this  great  truth,  nine  tenths  of  all  the  superstition 
and  error  in  religion  would  disappear. 

But  we  are  not,  therefore,  to  conclude  that  there  is  no  im- 
mortality ;  that  eternal  life  is  a  myth.     It  is  a  glorious  reality. 


CALCUTTA.  217 

The  apostle  Paul  tells  us  that  to  those  who  by  patient  continu- 
ance in  well-doing  seek  for  immortality,  eternal  life  will  at  last 
be  rendered.  And  again  we  are  told  that  this  will  be  be- 
stowed at  the  second  appearing  of  Christ.  "  We  shall  all  be 
changed  in  a  moment,  in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye,  at  the  last 
trump ;  for  the  trump  shall  sound,  and  the  dead  shall  be  raised 
incorruptible,  and  we  shall  be  changed.  For  this  corruptible 
must  put  on  incorruption,  and  this  mortal  must  put  on  immor- 
tality." It  is  to  the  resurrection  then  that  we  must  look  for 
immortality.  The  Bible  never  attributes  the  principle  of  an 
immortal  existence  to  man  in  his  present  condition,  and  the 
Scriptures  are  totally  against  the  idea  of  conscious  existence 
between  death  and  the  resurrection.  Having  accepted  this 
testimony,  there  is  no  room  left  for  the  vagaries  of  heathenism, 
and  no  foundation  for  the  great  majority  of  the  errors  of  the 
Christian  world. 

Right  in  the  center  of  Calcutta  is  a  beautiful  little  park 
called  Dalhousie  Square,  which  contains  a  large  tank,  or  reser- 
voir, of  water.  Around  and  near  this  are  the  government 
offices.  On  the  west  is  a  general  post-office,  one  of  the  finest 
and  most  prominent  buildings  in  the  city ;  while  extending 
across  the  north  side  is  the  Secretariat,  or  office  of  the  secre- 
tar}^  of  state,  a  fine  structure  of  stone. 

A  few  blocks  south  of  Dalhousie  Square  is  the  Maidan,  a 
very  large  open  common,  bounded  by  prominent  streets  and 
traversed  by  fine  drives.  Upon  the  east  runs  Chowringha 
Road,  upon  which  is  located  the  national  museum,  one  of  the 
most  celebrated  institutions  of  the  East.  Its  vast  halls  are 
filled  with  treasures  of  antiquity  illustrative  of  oriental 
history.    The  view  on  page  191  is  taken  from  the  Maidan. 

Adjacent  to  the  Maidan  are  the  Eden  Gardens,  the  most 
beautiful  within  the  city  limits.  In  the  center  is  a  quaint  ohl 
pagoda  of  carved  wood.     On  the  Howrah  side  of  the  river,  and 


< 

5 


-X 


< 


X 


1  11 


SIGHTS  IN  CALCUTTA.  219 

three  or  four  miles  below,  is  the  famous  Botanical  Garden. 
The  principal  attraction  here  to  the  stranger  will  probably  be 
a  great  banyan  tree,  said  to  be  one  hundred  years  old,  and 
having  the  shape  of  a  great,  round  pavilion.  The  ground  it 
covers  is  eight  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  circumference.  It  is 
forty-five  feet  around  the  main  trunk.  There  are  thousands 
of  branch  ti'unks  extending  from  the  limbs  to  the  ground, 
where  they  take  root.  These  trees  are  common  in  India, 
though  this  is  the  largest  one  I  saw. 

The  Zoological  Garden,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river, 
presents  a  very  large  collection  from  the  animal  world.  This 
is  particularly  true  of  the  reptile  and  the  monkey  departments. 
There  are  many  venomous  serpents  in  the  country,  the  most 
dreaded  being  the  cobra,  whose  bite  causes  death  in  a  very 
short  time.  As  the  feet  of  the  natives  are  not  protected,  they 
are  very  liable  to  be  bitten,  and  each  year  many  thousands 
are  victims  to  these  reptiles. 

In  Calcutta  and  vicinity  several  very  pleasant  acquaint- 
ances were  made  with  missionary  people,  who  receive  stran- 
gers with  the  utmost  kindness.  Among  those  in  the  city  were 
Mr.  Messmore,  editor  of  the  Indian  Witness,  imt\  Mr.  Conklin, 
manager  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  publisliing  Avork.  The 
work  of  the  American  Methodists  and  baptists  has  been  very 
successful,  especially  for  the  last  few  years  and  among  the 
lower  castes.  The  former  denomination  occupies  the  northern 
central  provinces  principally,  and  the  Baptists  are  working  in 
the  provinces  south  of  Calcutta. 

A  few  miles  out  of  the  city,  at  Dum  Dum,  was  the  home  of 
Mr.  J.  R.  Brodhead,  superintendent  of  the  Wesleyan  mission 
for  the  Bengal  district.  The  kindness  of  this  gentleman  and 
his  wife  could  hardly  be  exceeded  by  an  own  Itrother.  In  his 
company,  a  ver}^  pleasant  Sabbath  was  spent.  I  also  accom- 
panied   him  to  a  native  camp-meeting,  which  was    a    unique 


220  J^"^  ^^ND  ABOUT  CALCUTTA. 

affair.  The  princij^al  iont  ronsisted  of  a  motley  collection  of 
cloths,  which  gave  only  a  partial  shelter  from  the  sun,  for  of 
rain  there  was  no  danger.  Near  by  stood  a  dwelling  or  two 
and  a  few  other  fiimily  tents.  Upon  matting,  in  the  center  of 
the  tent,  sat  the  master  of  ceremonies,  a  convert  to  Chris- 
tianity who  had  been  a  hard  character  in  the  past.  He  played 
a  violin.  About  him  were  other  violinists,  or  "fiddlers"  per- 
haps, and  a  tom-tom.  This  latter  is  a  small  drum,  beaten  by 
the  hand  and  fingers,  and  the  two  heads  are  strung  to  a  differ- 
ent pitch,  giving  the  music  (?)  a  weird  character.  This 
instrument  is  very  much  admired  in  India,  and  is  everywhere 
heard  in  temples  and  processions.  A  fine  class  of  girls  from 
Mr.  Brodhead's  training  school  joined  in  singing  with  the 
leader.  After  singing  a  verse,  or  perhaps  in  the  midst  of  a 
stanza,  the  song  would  be  broken  off  by  a  speech  or  exhorta- 
tion by  the  leader.  And  as  suddenly  the  remarks  would 
cease,  and  the  singing  be  resumed.  The  missionaries  sitting 
near,  w^atched  the  exercises,  and  from  time  to  time  spoke  such 
words  as  would  give  the  proper  turn  to  the  meeting.  This 
was  kept  up  nearly  all  day  and  into  the  night.  Early  in  the 
day  there  were  perhaps  fifty  present,  but  later  the  people 
gathered  in  quite  large  numbers. 

Here  I  met  Mr.  J.  A.  McDonald,  secretary  and  editor  for 
the  Christian  Literature  Society.  These  devoted  missionaries 
related  many  interesting  particulars  of  their  experiences. 
Mr.  Brodhead  went  to  India  without  friends  or  money.  Be- 
ginning his  missionary  work  without  a  home,  he  took  up  his 
abode  under  a  spreading  tree,  and  there  remained  until  he  was 
found  and  taken  in  by  an  English  police  officer  who  gave  him  a 
home.  It  was  through  this  gentleman.  Colonel  Lacy,  now  of 
Ilobart,  Tasmania,  a  personal  friend,  that  an  acquaintance  with 
these  Christian  workers  was  formed.  For  seven  years,  Mr. 
Mc  Donald  labored  without  seeing  a  soul  embrace  the  Chris- 


CANDID  DISHONESTY.  221 

tian  religion.  And  when  at  last  all  support  was  about  to  be 
withdrawn  from  what  seemed  to  be  a  fruitless  field,  in  answer 
to  earnest  prayer  success  began  to  dawn,  and  now  a  large 
number  have  been  raised  up  in  what  was  once  a  stronghold  of 
iniquity. 

Some  missionaries  and  many  visitors  to  India  become  dis- 
gusted at  what  seems  to  be  the  incorrigible  nature  of  the 
natives.  One  is  apt  to  form  the  opinion  that  they  are  all  liars 
and  thieves,  and  perhaps  he  would  not  lay  himself  liable  to 
prosecution  for  libel  if  he  said  that  they  are  such.  But  we 
have  already  observed  that  those  people  have  not  been  edu- 
cated according  to  our  standard  of  morality.  It  is  quite  true 
that  to  their  minds  the  harm  in  stealing  consists  in  getting 
caught ;  and  as  for  the  harm  in  lying,  they  have  not  discov- 
ered it.  Even  after  it  is  told  them,  it  takes  time  and  patience 
to  inculcate  the  doctrine  that  honesty  is  the  best  policy.  It  is 
not  taken  as  an  insult  if  one  of  them  is  called  a  liar ;  it  never 
excites  more  than  a  smile  of  acquiescence.  A  missionary  con- 
nected with  a  school  related  that  upon  one  occasion  a  student 
came  to  him,  showing  by  his  countenance  that  he  had  a  seri- 
ous grievance.  He  reported  that  a  fellow-student  had  called 
him  a  liar.  The  teacher  treated  the  offense  lightly,  remarking 
that  it  was  no  matter  since  that  was  a  very  common  thing 
among  them.  "Yes,"  said  the  young  man;  "but  he  called 
me  a  liar  in  English."  That  w\'is  another  thing  to  his  mind. 
If  a  servant  be  sent  out  to  obtain  change  for  a  bank-note,  very 
likely  he  will  be  an  anna  or  two  short;  and  when  told  of  it,  he 
simply  unrolls  the  coin  from  a  corner  of  his  garment  and  hands 
it  over  without  any  show  of  compunction  or  shame.  At  the 
same  time  your  house,  or  watch,  or  purse  would  be  perfectly 
safe  in  their  keeping. 


UP  THE  GANGES  VALLEY. 


,OL^R  hundred  and  fifteen  miles  up  the  river  from  Cal- 
cutta is  the  city  of  Benares  with  a  population  of 
two  hundred  thousand.  It  is  the  Mecca  of  Hindu- 
ism. The  city  contains  three  thousand  Hindu  temples 
and  shrines.  Thousands  of  aged  persons  come  here  to  spend 
the  remnant  of  their  days,  that  they  may  die  upon  the  sacred 
banks  of  "  Mother  Ganges."  Among  other  temples  is  the 
famous  Monkey  Temple  a  short  distance  out  of  the  city.  It  is 
so  named  from  the  monkeys  that  swarm  the  trees  and  the  sur- 
rounding walls.  They  expect  to  be  fed  at  the  expense  of  every 
visitor,  and  become  rather  impudent  if  this  is  not  done.  A 
few  handfuls  of  rice  or  orain  will  satisfv  them. 

The  building  is  not  a  remarkable  one  among  its  class.  It 
is  built  of  red  sandstone,  and  consists  of  a  wall  enclosing  a 
tank  of  water,  or  bathing  place,  and  the  temple  proper.  This 
structure  is  about  thirty  feet  square  at  the  base,  and  tapers  to 
a  point  fifty  feet  high,  in  pagoda  style.  Within  the  building 
is  the  image,  a  gaudy,  ill-conceived  object.  Before  the  door 
is  a  raised  platform  of  stone,  on  which  the  worshipers  con- 
gregate. 

The  Cow  Temple  attracts  especial  attention.  I  was  per- 
mitted to  stand  in  the  door,  and  that  satisfied  me  ;  for  the 
place  is  filthy  with  the  presence  of  the  sacred  bovines,  which 
seem  to  enjoy  life  above  the  average  of  their  class.  Many 
women  to  whom  the  privilege  of  bearing  sons  has  been  denied, 
resort  here  to  pray  devoutly  for  that  blessing. 

[222] 


Pi 


224  UP   THE   GANGES    VALLEY. 

The  Golden  Temple,  in  the  center  of  the  city,  is  a  much 
more  interesting  place.  It  consists  of  a  large  group  of  tem- 
ples dedicated  to  different  gods.  The  principal  one,  devoted 
to  Siva,  has  a  dome  and  tower  covered  with  plates  of 
beaten  gold,  very  thin  of  course,  and  yet  apparently  genuine. 
The  worship  is  carried  on  beneath,  access  to  which  is  denied 
all  unbelievers.  The  privilege  of  looking  through  a  small 
opening  in  the  stone  wall  was  given,  and  revealed  a  strange 
scene  of  heathen  activity  and  devotion.  This  group  of  tem- 
ples is  approached  only  by  narrow,  dark  passages.  Here  was 
a  temple  to  Krishna,  one  to  the  monkey  god,  another  to  the 
sacred  bull,  and  so  forth  through  a  long  list. 

This  is  one  of  Satan's  headquarters.  Here  he  holds  undis- 
puted sway  amid  a  countless  throng  of  willing  votaries.  Being 
alone,  I  felt  uneasy,  as  I  was  jostled  about  and  often  glared 
upon  by  priests  and  fanatics,  until  looking  behind,  I  saw  a 
policeman  following.  In  the  center  of  this  nest  of  Hinduism, 
the  conqueror  Aurangzeb  erected  a  Mohammedan  mosque, 
doubtless  as  an  insult  to  the  Hindu  faith.  It  may  be  a  ques- 
tion as  to  which  are  the  more  uncomfortable,  the  mosque  peo- 
ple or  their  uncongenial  neighbors. 

Perhaps  the  most  sacred  of  all  these  sacred  spots  is  the 
holy  Well  of  Wisdom  where  Siva  is  said  to  live.  This  well 
is  about  twelve  feet  in  diameter  and  twenty  feet  in  depth. 
The  worshipers  are  constantly  throwing  into  it  offerings  of 
rice  and  marigolds.  The  putrid  water,  thick  with  decaying 
flowers  and  rice,  is  prized  as  the  nectar  of  the  gods.  The 
place  is  a  hot-bed  of  cholera. 

The  most  interesting  sight  in  Benares  is  to  be  obtained  on 
the  river  in  the  early  part  of  the  day.  The  city  is  wholly 
built  on  the  north  side  of  the  Ganges,  and  its  bank  is  crowded 
with  palaces  and  temples,  while  numerous  ghats  for  bathing 
and  burning,  lead  down  to  the  water.     The  scene  is  unbroken 


The  <  idi.DK.N   Temple,   Bexakes.     (See  page  222.)  [22.")] 


15 


22C)  UF   THE   GANGES    VALLEY. 

lor  (wo  miles  or  move.  Many  of  the  principal  rulers  and  great 
men  of  India  have  palaces  here,  where  they  and  their  house- 
holds may  freely  enjoy  the  benefits  of  the  sacred  waters. 
The  devout  hathei's  pray  and  wash  at  the  same  time.  Taking 
a  boat  we  slowly  floated  down  the  stream,  passing  near  this 
most  novel  scene.  Midway  we  landed,  and  visited  the  mosque 
which  the  conquering  Mussulmans  built  here,  and  which,  as  at 
the  Golden  Temple,  is  a  stumbling-block  to  the  Hindus.  Its 
lofty  minarets  rise  more  than  two  hundred  feet  above  the 
river,  from  the  top  of  one  of  which  we  enjoyed  a  fine  view  of 
the  city.  The  shaft  being  but  eight  feet  in  diameter,  a  pecul- 
iar sensation  attends  this  apparent  suspension  in  mid-air.  A 
carriage  could  not  approach  within  half  a  mile  of  this  mosque, 
so  densely  are  the  houses,  palaces,  and  temples  packed  to- 
gether. 

A  short  distance  up  the  river  from  Benares  is  Allahabad 
(the  city  of  Allah,  or  God).  It  is  at  the  junction  of  the  sacred 
river  Jumna  with  the  more  sacred  Ganges,  and  is  a  most  cele- 
brated rendezvous  upon  certain  occasions.  The  city  itself  is  a 
place  of  considerable  learning,  and  possesses  many  fine  resi- 
dences belonging  to  Europeans  and  other  wealthy  classes.  It 
is  also  a  railway  center  of  some  importance.  Fifteen  miles 
from  it  stands  the  little  village  of  Manauri,  where  a  pause  was 
made  at  the  hospitable  home  of  L.  Porter,  Esq.,  superintend- 
ent of  the  large  oil  mills  of  the  East  India  Railway  Company. 
Their  oils  for  lubrication  and  illumination  are  made  from  the 
castor  bean,  and  in  the  manufacture  of  this  produce,  with 
varnish,  paint,  soap,  etc.,  over  five  hundred  hands  are  kept 
employed.  Here  was  an  excellent  opportunity  to  study  the 
simple  village  life  of  the  poorer  classes.  Mr.  Porter  is  looked 
up  to  with  almost  filial  regard  by  the  little  village  whose  peo- 
ple have  learned  of  his  kindness  in  many  ways.  Happy  would 
it  be  for  India  if  all  European  overseers  were  thus  kind. 


CAWNPORE.  227 

Cawnpore  is  the  next  station  of  importance,  and  here,  too, 
the  kind  hospitality  of  English  residents  was  demonstrated. 
This  city  of  growing  importance  is  one  of  the  liveliest  places 
in  the  interior  country.  There  is  a  very  melancholy  interest 
connected  with  its  history  in  the  circumstance  of  the  Sepoy 
rebellion  in  1857.  In  the  beautiful  Memorial  Garden  is  located 
the  well  into  which  two  hundred  and  forty  butchered  and  liv- 
ing persons  were  thrown  by  the  rebels  who  learned  of  the 
approach  of  the  English  soldiers.  This  well  is  enclosed  and 
covered  Avith  a  marble  wall,  in  the  midst  of  which  stands  a 
beautiful  angel  figure  holding  a  palm  branch  and  looking  pen- 
sively down  into  the  well.  On  the  banks  of  the  Ganges,  some 
distance  from  the  garden,  is  the  famous  Suttee  Chauri  Ghat, 
where,  under  promise  of  safe  conduct  to  Allahabad  by  boats, 
the  English  garrison  and  settlers  embarked,  and  no  sooner 
were  in  their  boats  than  the  natives  in  ambush  opened  fire 
and  killed  nearly  every  man  in  the  company.  The  women 
and  children  were  taken  back  to  the  barracks  and  closely  con- 
fined for  a  few  days,  when  they  met  their  terrible  fate  in  the 
well.  Cawnpore  is  now  celebrated  for  its  cotton-mills  and  for 
its  manufactures  of  leathern  goods.  It  is  also  celebrated  for 
its  jugglers,  though  it  by  no  means  has  a  monopoly  of  this 
interesting  genius.  But  the  adepts  of  the  occult  art  in  India 
rank  with  the  superior  orders  of  cunning  tricksters.  One 
may  spend  an  idle  hour  watching  their  exploits  without  being 
able  upon  any  ground  of  human  possibilities  to  account  for  one 
tenth  of  what  he  sees.  It  is  easy  to  conclude  that  these 
crafty  performers  are  in  league  with  the  great  deceiver.  The 
broad  grin  with  which  they  watch  the  astonishment  of  the 
onlookers  forms  a  comical  feature  of  the  entertainment. 

Lucknow  is  forty-five  miles  north  from  Cawnpore.  It  is  the 
fourth  city  in  India,  having  a  population  of  over  three  hundred 
thousand.    It  is  even  more  famous  for  its  participation  in  the  Se- 


LUCKNOW.  229 

poy  rebellion  than  Tawnpore.  The  city  was  once  the  capital  of 
the  reigning  mahurajahs  ot"  the  province  of  Oudh,  and  abounds 
in  i)alaces  of  royalty.  In  the  central  part  of  the  city  is  the 
Kaiser  Bagh,  or  Emperor's  Gardens,  a  vast  pile  of  buildings, 
once  the  mai'niticent  home  of  reigning  kings  and  their  exten- 
sive  households.  They  are  built  around  a  square  of  perhaps 
fifteen  acres  which  has  been  cultivated  as  a  park  and  flower 
garden.  Many  of  these  old-time  buildings  present  an  impos- 
ing appearance  as  they  are  approached,  but  upon  closer  exami- 
nation prove  to  1)0  bizarre  and  cheap.  They  are  built  of 
bricks  a  little  more  than  an  inch  in  thickness,  laid  in  clay, 
and  the  walls  are  covered  with  stucco  Avhich  in  time  crumbles 
off,  leaving  the  buildings  unsightly.  The  more  modern  struct- 
ures are  of  a  different  character,  some  of  them  being  impos- 
ing and  decidedly  creditable  in  appearance. 

The  object  of  greatest  interest  in  Lucknow  is  the  ruins  of 
the  Residency.  Prior  to  the  mutiny,  this  was  a  palace  sur- 
rounded by  buildings  of  the  British  representation.  At  that 
time  there  were  less  than  one  thousand  English  soldiers,  and 
about  the  same  number  of  loyal  Indian  troops,  with  civilians, 
women,  and  children,  comprising  about  three  thousand  souls 
surrounded  by  an  overwhelming  force  of  rebels.  Fortifications 
were  quickly  thrown  up,  and  for  eight  months  the  place  endured 
a  fearful  siege,  during  which  time  two  thirds  of  the  beleaguered 
party  perished.  Relief  came  under  the  forces  of  Sir  Henry 
Havelock,  who  fought  his  w^ay  through  the  gates  and  streets 
of  Lucknow.  But  his  army  was  not  sufficient  to  raise  the 
siege.  Finally  ample  relief  came  under  the  command  of  Sir 
Colin  Campbell.  Sir  Henry  Lawrence,  who  at  first  held  com- 
mand, was  mortally  wounded  by  a  shell  which  burst  in  his 
room,  and  Sir  Henry  Havelock  died  of  dysentery  before  leav- 
ing the  city.  The  ruins  are  carefully  preserved  in  as  nearly 
the  shape  in  which  they  were  left  by  the  siege  as  possible, 


W 


< 
G 
O 

H 
P 


O 
CO 


SCHOOLS  IN  LUCKNOW.  231 

except  that  the  grounds  «ire  improved  and  beautifully  kept. 
The  grave  of  Lawrence  is  within  the  grounds,  and  upon  the 
humble  monument  is  an  astounding  inscription  Alluding  to 
the  last  words  of  the  faithful  man  it  reads,  ''  Here  lies  the 
man  who  tried  to  do  his  duty.  May  the  Lord  have  mercy 
on  his  soul." 

In  missionary  work,  Lucknow  is  the  headquarters  of  the 
publishing  work  for  the  American  Methodist  Episcopal  Mis- 
sion. Here,  too,  are  located  a  college  and  school  for  boys. 
They  have  commodious  buildings  for  school  and  dormitory. 
The  cost  of  boarding  boys  at  this  school  is  about  one  dollar  per 
month.  The  culinary  operations  are  conducted  by  themselves 
upon  a  very  simple  plan,  and  embrace  chiefly  the  almost  uni- 
versal chowpatti  (spelling  mine)  made  of  coarsely  ground 
wheat  or  ghendri  meals  mixed  with  water,  rolled  very  thin, 
and  baked  upon  the  smooth  surface  of  a  hot  stone.  The  boys 
think  that  these  are  not  bad  to  take,  and  it  is  quite  easy  to 
agree  with  them  for  a  short  trial.  One  hundred  dollars  will 
send  ten  boys  to  school  there  for  one  year.  Certainly  a  good 
opportunity  for  philanthropic  people  to  invest  some  money. 

Besides  this,  there  is  located  here  Miss  Thoburn's  school 
for  females,  which  is  giving  instruction  to  many  young  women 
who  are  fitting  themselves  for  usefulness  in  Bible  work  and 
teaching.  Besides  Christian  ladies,  zenana  women  are  brought 
to  the  house  in  their  palkees  or  closed  palanquins,  that  they 
may  avail  themselves  of  the  privileges  of  the  school.  The  ex- 
amination of  these  high-caste  ladies  by  the  gentlemen  regents 
of  the  school  has  to  be  carried  on  throuo'h  a  curtain,  for  in  no 
case  would  they  expose  their  faces  to  the  view  of  any  man 
except  their  own  husbands  or  fathers.  It  would  be  in  their 
minds  an  act  of  gross  immodesty.  Physicians  who  have  been 
called  to  visit  patients  of  this  class  have  to  examine  their 
tongues  or  pulses  through  an  aperture  in  a  curtain. 


FARTHER  INLAND. 


ETURXING  to  the  main  line  of  the  East  India  rail- 
^it,  ^^'0'  '^^  Cawnpore,  another  night's  ride  brings  us  to 
^  Agra,  over  eight  hundred  miles  up  the  Ganges  Val- 
ley from  Calcutta.  The  city  of  Agra  is  one  of  the 
strongest  magnets  in  India.  Its  attractions  are  felt  by  tour- 
ists even  before  they  leave  home,  and  increase  in  power  as 
they  approach.  "Shall  you  see  the  Taj?"  is  the  question 
asked  on  the  way.  "Have  you  seen  the  Taj?"  is  frequently 
heard  on  the  returning  journey.  The  city  itself  is  not  very 
dilTerent  from  other  notable  ones  in  the  level  Gano'etic  Val- 
ley.  The  European  and  aristocratic  native  portions  are  spa- 
cious and  beautiful,  at  least  in  December,  but  the  bazaars 
and  quarters  of  the  poorer  nati^  es  are  crowded  and  squalid. 
The  city  stands  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Jumna.  The  rail- 
ways run  just  south  of  the  city  between  it  and  the  Fort.  The 
main  station  is  adjacent  to  the  Fort  entrance.  Within  the 
Fort  enclosure  are  situated  many  of  those  magnificent  build- 
ings which  furnish  the  tangible  evidence  of  j)ast  greatness. 

Before  noticing  these  buildings,  let  us  consider  briefly  their 
origin.  Three  hundred  years  ago,  approximately  speaking, 
India  was  overrun  by  the  conquering  Mohammedans,  who 
descended  upon  the  country  from  the  passes  in  the  northwest. 
In  twenty-five  years  the  effeminate  Hindus,  in  spite  of  their 
best  resistance,  were  sufficiently  subdued  to  prepare  the  way 
for  the  establishment  of  the  great  Moghul  Empire.  Of  this 
dvnasty  Akbar   the    Great  is   regarded   as   the   real  founder. 

[  233  ] 


AGRA  FORT.  235 

His  successors  were  men  of  power  and  energ}^  especially  so 
was  his  grandson.  Shah  Jalian  (king  of  the  world).  To  this 
man,  more  than  to  others,  though  not  exclusively,  belongs  the 
credit  of  these  remarkable  structures  which  are  India's  glory, 
a  glory  which  but  for  these  has  now  nearly  departed.  Shah 
Jahan  thought  to  establish  the  seat  of  his  government  at  Fut- 
tipore  Sikri,  twenty-three  miles  from  Agra,  where  he  erected 
some  magnificent  buildings,  and  caused  a  city  to  be  estab- 
lished ;  but  afterward,  evidently  changing  his  mind,  he  settled 
upon  Agra.  The  former  is  now  deserted  and  desolate,  except 
for  fakirs  and  guides,  who  dwell  in  the  silent  city. 

The  Fort  at  Agra  presents  Ironi  without  a  massive  and 
grand  appearance.  The  walls  are  one  and  a  half  miles  in  cir- 
cumference, and  said  to  be  seventy  feet  high.  They  are  sur- 
rounded by  a  capacious  moat,  lined  with  stone.  The  Fort, 
built  of  red  sandstone,  is  apparently  in  perfect  preservation, 
there  being  no  signs  of  dissolution.  The  only  entrance  is  the 
Delhi  gate,  an  impressive  structure  approached  over  a  draw- 
bridge, and  containing  four  massive  portals  leading  through  as 
many  walls.  The  roadway  leads  to  the  high  ground  of  the 
enclosure.  The  English  soldiers  are  quartered  here  now,  and 
their  barracks  and  military  stores  mar  the  beauty  of  the  place. 
The  object  of  special  interest  is  the  emperor's  palace,  over- 
hanging the  river  that  washes  the  base  of  the  Fort  walls. 
These  buildings  are  of  marble,  richly  inlaid  with  variously 
colored  stones  in  beautiful  flower  patterns.  There  are  the 
public  and  private  audience  halls,  the  baths,  and  the  Jessamine 
Tower,  each  of  them  beautiful  beyond  the  power  of  pen  to  de- 
scribe. The  latter  was  the  private  apartment  of  the  favorite 
queen.  Its  name  is  derived  from  one  of  the  patterns  in  which 
precious  stones  are  inlaid  in  the  pure  marble.  Rosewater 
fountains,  mirrors,  paintings,  gilt,  and  fresco  united  to  beautify 
this  place. 


THE   TAJ.  237 

From  nearly  every  window  and  door  of  the  palace  one  can 
look  out  upon  the  river,  across  a  bend  of  which  stands  in 
lonely  beauty,  the  pearl  of  India,  the  Taj  Mahal.  Shah  Jahan 
built  this  place  as  a  tomb  for  his  favorite  wife,  so  it  is  said ; 
but  it  appears  to  a  modern  observer  that  he  w^as  like  most 
other  men ;  for  while  he  was  doing  a  very  nice  thing  for  his 
wife,  he  made  it  large  enough  for  himself  also.  At  least  their 
tombs  are  side  by  side,  though  the  principal  place  is  given  to 
the  beloved  Begum.  The  buildinii'  stands  on  the  river  bank  in 
an  enclosure  of  perhaps  ten  acres  —  a  beautiful  garden  — 
which  adds  to  the  effect  and  loveliness  of  the  buildings.  The 
gateway  is  a  massive  and  lofty  structure,  one  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  in  height,  notable  in  itself  for  architectural  beauty.  It  is 
of  red  sandstone  inlaid  with  white  marble.  On  each  side 
of  the  Taj  are  mosques  of  the  same  material,  one  for  women, 
the  other  for  men. 

The  mausoleum  consists  of  a  dais  twenty  feet  high  and 
over  three  hundred  feet  square,  with  a  minaret  one  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  high  on  each  corner.  In  the  center  of  this  plat- 
form is  the  tomb,  a  building  nearly  two  hundred  feet  square,  and 
rising  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  crowned  with  a  dome. 
All  of  this  —  platform,  minarets,  and  tomb  —  is  of  pure  white 
marble.  The  symmetry  is  perfect,  the  workmanship  fiiultless. 
Within  is  a  scene  of  indescribable  beauty.  The  sarcophagi 
occupy  the  center,  and  are  inwrought  with  precious  stones, 
and  surrounded  by  remarkable  marble  screens,  which  are  also 
inlaid.  I  shall  attempt  no  adjectives  or  exclamations;  better 
pens  than  mine  have  failed  to  describe  the  place.  The  best  of 
them  convey  but  a  poor  idea  of  the  strange  beauty  of  the 
place,  and  entirely  fiiil  to  descvibe  the  sensation  of  exquisite 
delight  one  feels  as  he  beholds  in  wonder.  The  doorway  bears 
this  inscription  in  Arabic  :  "  Thus  saith  Jesus  (on  whom  be 
peace),  This  world  is  a  bridge;  pass  thou  over  it,  but  build  no 


>-5 

H 


CO 
CO 


240  FARTHER   INLAND. 

house  thereon."  And  upon  the  interior  walls  the  entire  Koran 
is  inscribed  in  inlaid  work. 

The  tomb  of  Akbar  at  Secundra  near  Agra,  and  that  of 
Itmud-ed-Doula  across  the  river,  well  repay  the  visits  they  re- 
ceive. In  the  latter  are  marble  screens  nearly  seven  feet 
square,  of  one  stone.  These  screens  are  wonderful  works  of 
skill  and  patience,  consisting  of  slabs  of  marble  two  and  a  half 
or  three  inches  thick,  pierced  in  intricate  patterns  into  fine 
net-work,  and  executed  without  a  fl;iw.  They  are  found  in 
nearly  all  the  palaces  and  great  tombs  of  that  period. 

The  most  interesting  feature  of  my  visit  to  Agra  was  a 
conversation  with  Mrs.  Clara  Swain,  M.  D.,  who  for  more  than 
six  years  has  been  attached  to  the  family  of  a  native  king. 
They  were  staying  temporarily  in  Agra,  though  their  home  is 
about  seventy  miles  away  from  the  railway  in  a  more  remote 
part  of  the  country.  Dr.  Swain  is  a  devoted  and  earnest 
Christian,  v;ho  has  discreetly  represented  the  cause  of  the 
Master  while  doing  the  work  of  a  physician.  A  wide-felt  in- 
fluence has  consequently  gone  out  through  the  country,  and 
especially  in  the  palace.  The  rani  and  her  young  daughter 
love  the  Bible  as  well  as  the  Saviour  it  presents.  The  rajah 
himself  is  outwardly  attached  to  his  heathenism  still,  but  it  is 
hoped  that  the  grace  of  God  is  at  work  inwardly  to  illuminate 
the  mind.  At  the  time  of  my  visit,  the  family  had  been  pass- 
ing through  a  severe  trial,  for  the  rajah  had  forbidden  his 
daughter  to  read  the  Bible  ;  but  after  pleading  with  tears  upon 
her  part,  consent  was  given  upon  the  condition  that  she  should 
not  "read  about  eatins;  and  killino-  cows."  No  more  2:rievous 
sin  is  known  to  the  Hindu  than  this. 

Dr.  Swain  is  growing  gray  in  the  service.  Once  she 
thought  to  retire,  and  went  home  to  America ;  but  urgent 
letters  soon  followed  her  for  her  return.  So  taking  u}»  the 
burden  once  more,  she  has  isolated  herself  from  white  people 


o 

a 

w 

o 


a 
a 
I 

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o 


4^ 


16 


242  FARTHER  INLAND. 

and  from  Christians  for  Christ's  sake,  a  work  which  some,  if 
called  upon  to  do,  would  reckon  a  sacrifice. 

A  short  distance  from  Agra  is  the  city  of  Muttra  with  a 
population  of  sixty  thousand.  This  very  noted  and  sacred 
city  is  the  birthplace  and  principal  scene  of  the  life  of  Krishna, 
the  ninth  incarnation  of  Vishnu.  Christianity  has  made  but 
little  inroad  here,  and  it  was  a  peculiar  pleasure  to  accept  a 
kind  invitation  from  Dr.  Martha  Sheldon  in  charge  of  the 
Deaconess'  Home,  to  visit  and  view  heathenism  in  its  unadul- 
terated form,  if  it  be  possible  to  adulterate  that  which  is  base- 
ness itself.  The  Methodist  mission  has  a  good  start  here, 
and  under  the  wise  and  active  measures  taken  by  Dr.  J.  E. 
Scott,  land  has  been  procured  and  a  school  building  was  in 
process  of  erection,  directly  in  the  midst  of  the  city.  The 
sacred  Jumna  flows  past  the  city,  upon  the  banks  of  which  are 
many  temples  and  sacred  places.  A  lofty  stone  tower  marks 
the  place  of  the  suttee  sacrifices,  now  abolished  by  the  law, 
but  still  cherished  in  the  hearts  of  the  Brahmans.  Here  a 
very  sacred  cow  was  to  be  seen.  The  peculiar  sacredness  evi- 
dently consists  in  the  fact  that  the  creature  appears  to  have 
six  legs,  but  it  is  easy  to  discern  that  the  two  little  extra 
appendages  had  been  grafted  upon  the  shoulders  when  the 
animal  was  a  calf. 

Bindraban  is  a  neighboring  city  where  the  darkness  of 
Hinduism  is  even  more  dense  than  at  Muttra,  for  the  mission- 
aries in  the  latter  city  and  the  soldiers  at  the  cantonment  do 
give  a  little  tint  to  the  moral  atmosphere ;  but  in  Bindraban 
there  is  not  a  white  person  to  break  the  color,  nor  a  Christian 
to  relieve  the  darkness.  The  corruption  of  the  priests,  the 
superstition  and  blindness  of  the  people,  and  the  folly  of  the 
devotees  are  here  very  painfully  manifest.  At  the  time  of  my 
visit  with  Dr.  Sheldon,  we  were  the  only  white  people  in  the 
city.     Besides  being  "objects  of  curiosity  to  many,  our  presence 


UNMIXED  IIEATHEXISM.  243 

excited  the  cupidity  of  a  crowd  of  beggars,  but  we  suffered  no 
indignity,  though  we  visited  several  temples  and  the  doctor 
talked  with  the  people  freely  about  Jesus.  It  was  a  sad  sight 
to  witness  the  people  prostrating  themselves  before  their  idols 
and  bestowing  their  scant  offerings  of  rice,  water,  and  mari- 
golds. When  the  people  became  attentive  to  the  word  of 
truth,  the  priests  wonld  quickly  appear  and  scatter  them  with 
a  word. 

At  the  entrance  of  a  fine  temple  with  a  massive  marble 
fjicade,  we  were  restrained  from  going  farther  by  the  follow- 
ing (quaint  warning  inscribed  in  the  marble  wall  in  far  better 
lettering  than  grammar  :  "  Prevention  by  religion  for  Moham- 
medan and  European  gentlemen  to  go  farther  step."  In  the 
great  Red-sandstone  Temple  the  principal  idol  sits  gloomy  in  a 
dark  recess  attended  by  numerous  priests  who  see  to  all  his  im- 
aginary wants.  The  water  in  which  he  is  bathed  is  carefully 
preserved  and  doled  out  to  the  Bengali  widows  who  resort  to 
this  city  in  great  numbers.  The  water  is  used  for  bathing  the 
face,  and  a  portion  is  drunk  by  these  deluded  creatures  as 
a  panacea  for  the  many  ills  of  this  unfortunate  class  of  beings. 

A  temple  devoted  to  Krishna  was  in  process  of  construc- 
tion at  the  cost  of  twenty-five  lakhs  of  rupees.  (The  lakh  is 
one  hundred  thousand.)  Marble  inlaid  with  costly  stone 
forms  the  principal  part  of  the  building.  A  visit  to  such  a  city 
reveals  the  fact  that  Hinduism  is  yet  a  green  tree. 

Delhi  is  in  some  respects  the  most  interesting  of  India's 
cities.  Its  history  is  thickly  studded  with  dark  and  light  spots, 
and  the  monuments  of  its  past  greatness  and  power  are  spread 
around  over  a  radius  of  several  miles.  It  is  identified  with 
the  earliest  history  of  the  Orient,  being  contemporaneous  with 
Nineveh  and  Babylon.  Akbar,  the  great  Moghul  emperor, 
made  it  his  capital ;  later  Shah  Jahan,  after  building  Futti- 
pore    Sikri   and   Agra   Fort,  transferred   once  more  the  gov- 


a 


a 


SIGHTS  m  DELin.  245 

ernment  to  Delhi.  Here,  too,  this  remarkable  man  has  left 
monuments  of  his  indomitable  energy.  Not  only  of  energy, 
however,  but  also  of  oppression;  for  even  the  lovel}^  Taj  cost 
the  forced  labor  of  twenty  thousand  men  for  twenty  years. 
The  men  were  given  a  bare  subsistence ;  and  in  this  way  he 
built  all  his  works. 

The  modern  Delhi  (pronounced  Delly)  is  enclosed  by  a 
wall  of  red  sandstone  which  I  should  think  to  be  twenty-five 
feet  high  and  ten  feet  thick.  It  has  nearly  two  hundred 
thousand  inhabitants,  divided  between  Hindus  and  Mohamme- 
dans, the  latter  having  a  predominating  influence.  The  Fort 
is  within  the  city  enclosure,  and  like  that  of  Agra,  stands  on 
the  banks  of  the  Jumna.  It  contains  the  king's  palaces, 
which  for  beauty  rival  those  of  Agra.  The  queen's  bath- 
rooms are  inlaid  with  small,  convex  mirrors,  the  walls  being 
covered  with  them.  The  effect,  as  may  be  imagined,  is 
remarkable.  Through  the  baths,  and  indeed  through  most  of 
the  palace,  runs  a  marble  water-way,  four  feet  wide.  In  places, 
different  colored  marble  is  inlaid  zig-zag,  and  the  effect  of 
water  running  over  these  places  is  said  to  produce  the  like- 
ness of  fishes. 

In  point  of  magnificence,  the  Diwcm-i-Jchas,  or  Hall  of  Pri- 
vate Audience,  is  the  most  remarkable  l)uilding  in  India.  It 
is  of  marble,  most  richly  inlaid,  while  the  windows  are  marble 
screens  of  great  beauty.  The  roof  is  supported  by  about 
thirty-six  marble  pillars,  most  of  them  three  and  one  half  feet 
square,  inwrought  with  precious  stones.  The  ceiling  is  a  series 
of  gothic  arches  of  marble,  frescoed  in  gold,  silver,  and  scarlet. 
In  the  middle  of  this  grand  room  stood  a  marble  platform,  now 
moved  to  one  side,  which  supported  the  famous  peacock  throne. 
It  was  called  thus  because  it  represented  the  spread  tail  of 
that  fowl.  Its  cost  is  said  to  have  been  nearly  thirty 
million  dollars.      Of  course  it  disappeared  long  ago,  and  the 


246  FARTHER   INLAND. 

buildings  themselves  have  been  marred  by  robbing  them  of 
their  most  precious  gems.  The  frieze  of  this  room  bears  this 
inscription  :  "  If  paradise  be  on  earth,  it  is  here,  it  is  here." 
That  little  "if"  spoils  all  the  dreams  of  human  happiness  and 
perfection ;  for  through  the  wicked  ambition  of  a  son,  Shah 
Jahan  found  in  one  of  the  splendid  apartments  at  Agra  a  prison 
in  which  he  ended  his  days  in  sorrow. 

The  Hall  of  Judgment,  though  of  grander  proportions  and 
conception  than  any  of  the  others,  is  of  baser  material,  being 
made  of  brown  stone  inlaid  with  marble.  But  it  contains  the 
emperor's  seat  of  judgment,  constructed  of  beautiful  marble  in 
the  form  of  a  pavilion,  with  the  floor  raised  ten  feet.  Before 
his  majesty  sat  the  prime  minister  upon  a  marble  seat ;  he  re- 
ceived sentence  from  the  emperor,  and  conveyed  it  to  the 
accused.  In  those  "days  it  was  regarded  a  slight  thing  to 
sacrifice  life. 

The  Moti  Masjid,  or  Pearl  Mosque,  built  for  the  emperor's 
own  use,  is  a  veritable  pearl  of  pure  marble.  It  received  its 
name  on  account  of  its  costly  carpet  inwrought  with  pearls. 

For  the  use  of  the  common  people  the  emperor  built  outside 
the  Fort  the  Jumna  Miisjid,  or  Great  Mosque,  which  will 
accommodate  many  thousands  of  worshipers.  Its  floor  is 
reached  by  forty  steps  from  the  street,  the  lower  ones  being 
one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long.  This  building  is  mostly  of 
sandstone,  but  the  floor  of  the  court  is  composed  of  black  and 
white  marble. 

In  a  cloister  a  priest  keeps  charge  of  some  precious  relics, 
which  he  shows  for  backsheesh.  Among  them  are  old  writ- 
ings by  Mohammed's  son  and  grandson,  over  twelve  hundred 
years  old.  He  has  an  old  shoe  of  the  prophet,  a  footprint  in 
stone,  and  a  hair  from  his* beard. 

Time  and  space  bid  us  hasten  through  India  to  other  lands, 
but  there  is  so  much  to  relate  in  regard  to  this  most  interest- 


> 


c 


'X 


248  FARTHER  INLAND. 

ing  country  and  people,  that  it  is  extremely  difficult  to  heed 
the  admonitions  to  cut  short  our  visit.  Here  in  Delhi,  in 
Lucknow,  Benares,  and  indeed  in  every  city,  the  visitor  is  im- 
pressed with  the  subtile  ingenuity  in  handicraft  displayed  on 
every  side.  Men  living  and  working  in  squalor  with  only  the 
rudest  implements  turn  out  products  of  skill  which  would 
bafTle  our  most  accomplished  artisans  with  all  that  machinery 
and  enlightenment  can  do  for  them.  Sitting  upon  the  ground, 
or  upon  a  low  stool,  they  work  with  fingers  and  toes  at  spin- 
ning, wea'\'ing,  needlework,  engraving,  and  gold  and  silver  work, 
producing  articles  that  sell  for  a  few  pennies,  or  that  cost  a 
fortune  and  require  years  of  patient  toil,  on  perhaps  a  few 
yards  of  cloth.  'Tis  said  that  when  the  Prince  of  Wales  was 
in  India,  they  presented  to  him  three  pieces  of  muslin  each 
one  yard  wide  and  twenty  yards  long  and  weighing  three  and 
one  half  ounces.  Every  thread  of  this  cloth  was  spun  and 
woven  by  hand. 

For  generations  father  and  children  follow  the  same  line  of 
employment.  The  iron  rule  of  caste  holds  them  to  it;  and 
the  result  is  a  proficiency  that  is  perhaps  natural,  but  at  the 
same  time  is  to  us  nothing  short  of  marvelous.  The  dyers  of 
this  country  distinguish  over  two  hundred  colors  that  occi- 
dental eyes  cannot  discern.  In  carving  or  engraving  they  do 
not  follow  a  pattern,  but  are  guided  by  their  unerring  sight. 
Though  caste  may  have  its  advantage  in  this  direction,  it  is 
but  a  small  offset  to  the  great  injuries  that  it  inflicts  upon  the 
race.     It  is  the  barrier  to  progress  and  modern  civilization. 

The  house  of  the  European,  in  India,  generally  contains 
about  ;i  dozen  servants,  all  men  except  the  ai/ja,  or  nurse,  who 
takes  care  of  the  children.  The  reason  for  employing  so  many 
is  that  the  climate  usually  forbids  the  white  woman  doing 
much  of  her  own  work,  while  the  laws  of  caste  forbid  the 
servant  doing   more  than   one  kind   of  w^ork.     The  man  who 


servant;s. 


249 


drives  the  carriage  will  not  open  the  gate  ;  the  cook  will  not 
wash  the  dishes ;  the  one  who  waits  on  the  table  will  not 
sweep ;  hence,  a  man  must  needs  be  kept  for  each  branch  of 
domestic  work.  But  this  burden  is  not  so  intolerable  when 
we  take  into  consideration  that  about  six  cents  a  day  pays  the 
wages  of  each  man,  out  of  which  he  boards  himself  and  family, 
and  he  lives  in  a  row  of  cheap  huts  at  the  rear  of  the  bunga- 
low ;  so  that  the  difference  in  the  cost  of  servants  is  not  very 
much,  if  an}^,  compared  with  the  Indian  system. 


M-H-U 


Jessamine  Tower,  Agra  Fort. 


DELHI  TO  BOMBAY. 


'T  Delhi  the  traveler  is  nine  hundred  and  fifty-four 
miles  from  Calcutta  and  eight  hundred  and  ninety 
miles  from  Bombay,  the  great  western  metropolis. 
If  he  be  short  of  time,  he  will  at  this  point  turn  from 
his  northwestern  course  to  the  southwestern  tack  for  the 
latter  city.  That  is,  in  case  he  starts  at  Calcutta  and  leaves 
at  Bombay.  But  by  far  the  greater  number  of  people  who  go 
over  this  route  go  the  other  way,  Bombay  being  the  port  of 
entrance  for  nine  tenths  of  those  who  go  to  India. 

Leaving  Delhi  early  in  the  evening,  a  comfortable  night's 
ride  brings  us  to  Jeypore,  a  city  of  more  than  average  interest. 
The  maharajah  of  this  province  is  a  young,  progressive  prince 
of  good  English  education,  who  has  had  a  taste  of  Western 
civilization.  This  does  not  prevent  his  being  a  devoted  Hindu  ; 
but  it  has  inspired  him  to  beautify  and  improve  his  capital  city 
to  such  a  degree  that  it  is  to  Europeans  and  Americans  the 
most  congenial  city  in  interior  India. 

Six  miles  from  the  modern  capital  is  the  ancient  and  de- 
serted Palace  of  Umber.  The  name  of  this  place  is  generally 
spelled  "Amber,"  a  having  two  sounds  in  Indian  languages, — 
the  broad  sound,  and  the  short  sound  of  u.  For  four  miles  the 
journey  is  by  carriage,  then,  at  the  foot  of  the  hills,  we  leave 
the  carriage,  and  having  on  the  previous  day  applied  through 
the  English  resident  for  permission  to  visit  the  place,  we  find 
at  this  point  an  elephant  with  servants  waiting  to  take  us  over 
the  hill  to  the  palace  of  by-gone  days. 

[250] 


o 


^?^1Li 


N»- 


252  DELHI   TO   BOMBAY. 

This  elephant  ride  was  to  me  an  entirely  new  proceeding. 
The  giant  animal  is  attended  by  two  men.  The  malioiit,  or 
driver,  sits  astride  the  neck  holding  in  his  hand  a  sharp  iron 
pin  about  a  foot  long,  resembling  a  marlinespike.  His  method 
of  infusing  enthusiasm  or  obedience  consists  in  punching  the 
beast  in  the  back  of  his  head  with  the  iron  pin.  He  does  it  in 
a  way  that  produces  the  desired  effect  after  three  or  four 
blows  ;  but  it  would  be  well  to  say  that  the  thickness  of  the 
elephant's  hide  would  withstand  a  much  harder  punch  without 
being  pierced  than  the  mahout  gives  him,  so  the  operation  is 
not  so  cruel  as  it  seems. 

For  a  while  I  stood  looking  upward,  wondering  how  a  man 
that  could  not  fly  could  possibly  get  up  there.  The  driver 
began  pegging  away  at  the  giant's  head;  there  was  a  backward 
and  forward  swaying  of  the  mass  of  flesh,  followed  by  a  drop- 
ping upon  his  knees,  next  an  awkward  spreading  out  of  the 
hind  legs,  and  then  the  elephant  had  done  all  that  he  could  do 
to  accommodate  us,  for  he  lay  on  the  ground.  But  still  the 
seat  was  above  my  head,  therefore  an  attendant  brought  a 
step-ladder  which  he  planted  against  the  broad  side  of  the 
beast;  we  climbed  up  and  pulled  the  ladder  after  us.  Then 
there  was  a  quaking,  for  the  mahout  applied  his  punch.  By 
clinging  to  the  rude  frame  that  formed  our  seat  we  managed  to 
retain  our  hold.  Up  came  the  hind  end  of  our  conveyance, 
next  with  sundry  heavings,  up  came  the  other  end.  The 
animal  being  again  on  his  feet,  forward  we  went  with  a  jerking, 
shaking  gait  that  was  perhaps  better  than  not  going  at  all,  but 
was  several  degrees  worse  than  walking.  After  having  climbed 
the  hill,  our  course  lay  along  a  beautiful  artificial  lake,  shoAvn 
in  the  illustration,  thence  up  another  steep  hillside,  to  the 
gorgeous  but  forsaken  place. 

Modern  Jeypore  has  gas  and  water-works,  a  fine  museum, 
and  botanical  and  zoological  gardens,  the  latter  containing  a 


> 

o 


254  DELHI  TO  BOMBAY. 

den  of  the  fiercest  man-eating  Bengal  tigers,  who  sprung  at 
the  bars  with  a  fearful  roar  as  we  approached.  There  is  also 
a  large  lagoon  in  which  are  a  great  number  of  voracious  alliga- 
tors which  the  guide  tantalized  with  pieces  of  meat  tied  to  a 
rope.  The  stables  of  the  king  contain  over  one  hundred  ele- 
phants. These  animals  are  much  more  rare  in  India  than  is 
generally  supposed.  They  are  costly  to  procure  and  expen- 
sive to  keep. 

The  building  which  contains  the  museum  cost  six  lakhs  of 
rupees,  and  is  named  Albert  Ilall  in  honor  of  the  Prince  of 
Wales,  by  whom  the  corner  stone  was  laid  in  1876.  The 
frieze  of  the  building  is  adorned  with  mottoes  taken  from  the 
Vedas,  or  Hindu  sacred  books.  Amoug  them  are  these : 
"  High-minded  men  do  good  without  thought  of  their  own 
interests."  "  He  hath  all  wealth  who  hath  a  mind  contented ; 
to  him  whose  feet  are  covered  with  shoes,  the  whole  earth  is 
covered  with  leather."  "  Do  naught  to  others  which  if  done 
to  thee  would  give  thee  pain." 

While  in  this  city  of  sixty  thousand  people  I  saw  no  white 
man,  though  I  believe  that  there  were  three  or  four  in  the 
city.  There  is  no  more  occasion  for  fear  in  thus  mingling 
with  these  people  than  there  would  be  in  one  of  our  own 
cities,  or  among  our  own  kindred.  Indeed,  when  we  call  the 
people  of  India  heathen,  it  would  be  well  to  pause  a  moment  to 
consider  upon  what  ground  we  do  so.  I  do  not  say  that  there 
are  no  grounds.  But  if  we  travel  from  one  end  of  the  country  to 
the  other,  we  shall  see  no  drunkenness  and  no  saloons  for  the 
natives ;  we  shall  hear  no  profanity ;  we  shall  hear  of  no  vio- 
lent robberies  and  of  but  very  few  murders.  As  we  ride  on 
the  railway,  it  is  no  uncommon  sight  to  see  wild  deer  feeding 
with  cattle  in  the  same  field  where  men  are  at  work  and  even 
within  a  very  few  rods  of  the  train.  They  do  not  run  away. 
Jackals  follow  the  ditches  into  the  very  cities  for  food.     Beau- 


MARRIAGES.  255 

tiful  storks  and  cranes  gaze  at  us  as  we  pass  their  muddy 
haunts,  but  they  do  not  appear  to  be  alarmed.  As  we  walk 
the  streets,  the  birds  will  scarcely  get  out  of  our  way,  and  in 
the  cities  where  monkeys  abound  they  are  sometimes  too  famil- 
iar to  be  agreeable.  This  friendliness  between  men  and  animals 
speaks  volumes  for  the  kindliness  of  the  people,  and  we  all 
know  that  things  are  not  this  way  in  "Christian"  countries. 

But  while  they  respect  animal  life  as  being  but  another 
form  of  human  life,  they  are  not  always  thoughtful  of  the 
comfort  of  their  beasts  of  burden.  And  although  they  throw 
of  their  grain  to  feed  the  birds,  they  reject  with  disdain  the 
plea  of  the  beggar  who  craves  a  morsel  of  food. 

In  regard  to  marriages  one  universal  and  deep  impression 
prevails, — every  girl  must  be  married.  Unless  she  is  married 
and  the  mother  of  at  least  one  son,  she  is  regarded  as  not  only 
a  failure,  but  a  curse,  and  she  is  made  to  feel  it.  A  daughter 
must  not  be  married  into  a  caste  lower  than  that  of  her  father. 
Upon  the  unfortunate  fathers  of  the  girls  rests  the  duty  of 
providing  for  their  daughters'  marriage.  To  secure  this,  if  one 
be  a  poor  man,  he  may  have  to  hire  a  bridegroom ;  indeed, 
some  men  follow  the  business  of  marrying  poor  girls  for  a  few 
rupees  each.  Then  a  feast  must  be  provided,  so  that  the  ex- 
pense and  burden  of  getting  a  family  of  girls  married  off  is 
one  that  renders  domestic  life  in  many  cases  a  grief.  It  causes 
female  children  to  be  unwelcome. 

In  order  that  the  task  may  be  done  without  fail,  it  is 
begun  very  early.  Girls  are  frequently  married  in  infancy,  or 
at  least  so  far  as  to  be  formally  betrothed,  which  satisfies 
custom's  demands.  This  is  the  method  employed  by  the  men 
mentioned  above,  who  follow  tlie  business  ;  they  become  only 
betrothed  to  the  girls,  who  are  henceforth  considered  married, 
though  they  never  see  their  husbands  after  that  time.  They 
can  then  be  saved,  and  the  father  has  redeemed  his  character. 


o 
< 

Ah 

a 
w 

H 


HINDU   WIDOWHOOD.  257 

Of  course,  in  most  cases,  the  marriage  is  in  good  faith,  and  at 
ten  to  twelve  years  of  age  the  bride  is  chiimed,  and  becomes 
the  property  of  the  mother-in-kiw.  But  shouhl  the  bridegroom 
die  at  gny  time  after  the  engagement,  the  chihl,  or  woman,  is 
plunged  into  the  dreadful  state  of  widowhood.  She  may  be 
the  petted  and  loved  child  of  her  mother's  house,  the  joy  of 
the  home ;  as  such  she  is  dressed  in  finery,  and  receives  many 
privileges,  which  make  life  a  joy  to  her  mother.  But  some 
day  word  comes  that  her  betrothed  is  dead.  The  finery, 
jewelry,  and  all  marks  of  favor  are  at  once  stripped  ofi";  she 
is  clothed  in  rags,  and  becomes  a  slave,  a  curse,  an  object  of 
loathing,  even  in  her  own  mother's  eyes. 

Henceforth  her  life  is  brightened  by  no  joy.  There  is  no 
rift  in  the  cloud  of  darkness  in  this  world,  and  beyond  only 
the  blackness  of  despair.  Millions  of  innocent,  happy  lives 
have  thus  been  smothered  beneath  a  horrible  custom.  Thou- 
sands have  sought  beneath  the  river's  surface  the  only  possi- 
ble escape  from  an  unendurable  weight  of  vioa.  With  such  a 
fate  the  dreadful  suttee  became  not  only  possible,  but  desir- 
able ;  because  it  provided  an  escape  from  the  ills  of  this  state, 
and  formed  the  only  avenue  to  future  joy.  The  horrible  sacri- 
fice of  the  suttee,  or  sati,  has  been  repressed  by  law ;  though 
we  have  every  reason  to  believe  that  it  was  formerly  very 
common  in  India.  It  was  a  voluntary  act  on  the  part  of  a 
widow,  who  allowed  the  priests  to  bind  and  burn  her  upon  the 
fire  that  consumed  the  body  of  the  husband.  The  sufferings 
of  widowhood  were  so  great,  with  no  possible  escape,  and  the 
future  happiness  of  the  wife  who  thus  suffered  was  painted  in 
such  glowing  terms,  that  many  were  thus  induced  to  suffer. 
The  many  "  suttee  posts  "  throughout  the  land  bear  witness  to 
their  frequency.  Often  women  would  change  their  minds  and 
desire  to  escape  at  the  last  moment ;  but  having  taken  the  vow, 
they  were  not  permitted  to  change  their  purpose. 

17 


258  DELHI    TO   BOMBAY. 

The  justification  offered  for  such  iiihuiiifin  conduct  toward 
widows  and  even  helpless  and  unofi'ending  children,  is  the 
superstition  that  the  death  of  the  husband  is  the  result  of 
some  dreadful  sin  conunitted  bv  the  wife  in  a  former  existence; 
and  justice  has  designed  for  her  this  fate  as  a  punishment. 

But  a  womaii  who  becomes  a  mother  of  sons  is  honored, 
especially  when  they  are  grown  to  manhood.  A  person  de- 
siring to  wish  a  girl  great  happiness  says,  •'  May  you  become 
the  mother  of  eight  sons,  and  may  your  husband  survive  you." 
But  the  cruel  goddess  of  fashion,  under  Avhose  rule  the  women 
of  Christendom  suffer  such  mental  and  physical  anxiety  and 
pain,  does  not  thus  rule  our  sisters  in  India.  It  is  true  they 
are  fond  of  finery.  They  wear  all  they  can  procure  of  chains, 
nose-rings,  anklets,  and  toe-bells.  But  their  dresses  are  made 
when  the  cloth  is  woven  and  hemmed.  The  men  do  the  sew- 
ing, weaving,  embroidery,  and  the  women  have  but  little 
to  worry  about,  except  the  principal  care  of  the  children,  the 
simple  cooking,  and  for  a  pastime  the  universal  employment  of 
2;atherino:  cow  duns:  and  makin";  it  into  cakes  for  fuel. 

I  hesitate  to  write  the  last  words,  because  of  our  disgust 
for  such  a  practice  ;  but  we  are  speaking  now  of  India,  and 
this  species  of  offal  possesses  nothing  offensive  to  the  Hindu. 
Indeed,  it  is  used  in  many  sacred  rites,  and  a  devout  Brahman 
has  his  doorway  washed  with  it  each  morning  before  he  ven- 
tures out.  Among  the  poor  it  forms  an  almost  universal  fuel, 
and  to  be  relieved  from  its  disaorreeable  fumes  is  one  of  the 
pleasures  of  getting  out  of  the  country.  The  avidity  with 
which  Christians  eat  the  sacred  cow  is  to  them  ftir  more  re- 
pugnant than  their  admiration  of  the  animal  is  to  us. 

But  after  all,  we  read  that  God  hath  made  of  one  blood  all 
nations  for  to  dwell  on  the  face  of  the  whole  earth ;  hence  our 
differences  are  caused  by  education  and  surrounding  influ- 
ences.    They  are  not  created  in  us.     Human  nature  is  the  same 


a 

H 

Q 

O 

G 

H 

O 
H 


1)60  DELHI   TO   BOMBAY. 

all  the  world  over, —  poor,  weak,  defective.  But  all  men  are 
made  complete  in  Christ.  No  donbt  Christ  will  do  as  much 
for  India  as  for  other  countries. 

Mt.  Aboo,  the  great  headquarters  for  Jain  worship,  is  on 
the  road  from  Jeypore  to  Bombay,  and  also  the  city  of  Ahme- 
dabad,  noted  for  its  curious  manufactures  ;  but  these  must  be 
passed  by  this  time. 

Bombay  is  probably  at  present  equal  to  if  not  greater  than 
Calcutta  in  size.  At  the  last  census  it  was  but  little  behind, 
and  is  gaining  on  its  eastern  and  more  ancient  competitor.  It 
is  built  upon  a  narrow  neck  of  land,  the  extreme  point  of 
which  was  once  an  island  but  is  now  joined  to  the  mainland. 
This  peninsula  forms  the  protection  of  the  harbor,  which  is 
safe  and  capacious.  And  once  out  of  the  harbor,  the  sailor  is 
directly  upon  the  broad  waters  of  the  Arabian  Sea  instead  of 
having  to  follow  the  shifting  and  uncertain  course  of  a  river 
channel  for  many  miles.  Bombay  is  a  modern  city.  Within 
the  precincts  of  what  is  called  "  The  Fort,"  Avhich  embraces 
the  extremity  of  the  peninsula,  the  streets  are  wide  and  the 
buildings  are  creditable.  There  are  European  merchants  and 
offices  of  various  kinds,  but  the  principal  portion  of  the  busi- 
ness of  the  city  seems  to  be  in  the  hands  of  the  Parsees,  who 
constitute  a  very  influential  part  of  the  community.  As 
before  remarked,  a  great  majority  —  seventy-five  thousand  out 
of  a  total  of  eighty-five  thousand  —  of  these  people  live  here. 
They  may  be  known  by  their  peculiar  dress  and  manners. 
Both  men  and  women  are  thus  distinguished.  At  and  before 
sunrise  they  repair  in  large  numbers  to  the  sea-shore  to 
engage  in  w^orship  which  is  directed  to  the  rising  king  of  day 
and  to  the  ocean.  Their  prayers  are  long  and  pharisaical, 
consisting,  to  every  appearance,  *of  mere  form.  At  least,  they 
are  not  discommoded  if  interrupted  in  the  midst  of  their  cere- 
mony by  a  passing  acquaintance  speaking  to  them,  especially 


o 

» 

o 
>=3 


7. 

XA 
> 

B 


C5 


202  DELHI   TO   BOMBAY. 

ifi^  1);^  ;i  iu:ittei"  of  business.  After  this  has  been  attended  to, 
they  i^roceed  with  their  devotions  as  if  nothing  had  occuiTed. 
This  class  are  descendants  of  the  followers  of  Zoroaster  and 
of  the  fire-worshipers  of  Persia.  They  have  their  fire  temples 
in  Bombay,  where  the  sacred  flame  is  not  allowed  to  go  out. 
They  deny  that  they  worship  any  other  deity  than  God,  but 
claim  that  they  worship  him  through  the  elements  of  nature, — 
fire,  water,  and  earth. 

In  order  to  avoid  defiling  either,  they  neither  bury  nor 
burn  their  dead,  nor  cast  them  into  the  sea.  They  expose 
them  upon  the  top  of  circular  towers,  called  Towers  of  Silence, 
to  vultures  which  live  about  the  towers  in  flocks.  No  sooner 
is  the  corpse  laid  down  than  these  voracious  creatures  pounce 
upon  it,  and  within  a  few  minutes  nothing  but  the  bones 
remains.  As  these  accumulate,  they  are  thrown  into  a  Avell 
in  the  middle  of  the  tower.  These  birds  being  held  in  high 
regard  by  the  Parsees,  it  would  go  hard  with  any  one  who 
was  to  harm  one  of  them  and  be  found  out. 

Among  the  finest  modern  buildings  of  Bombay  and  India,  it 
may  be  said,  I  think,  the  finest  of  its  class  in  the  world,  is  the 
station  of  the  G.  I.  P.  railway,  an  illustration  of  which  is 
given  on  page  268.  The  native  quarters  of  this  city  are 
crowded,  as  is  everywhere  the  case.  The  botanical  and  zoolog- 
ical gardens  are  inferior,  but  the  central  market  is  well  worth 
a  visit. 

Within  the  harbor  are  several  islands,  one  of  which  con- 
tains the  celebrated  Elephanta  Caves.  A  view  of  these  caves 
forms  the  particular  attraction  of  a  visit  to  Bomljay.  Pleasure 
boats  run  at  short  intervals,  and  the  distance  is  perhaps  three 
miles  from  the  wharf.  Landing,  we  climb  stairs  and  a  comfort- 
able path  to  the  summit  of  the  island  where  the  caves  are 
located.  They  are  not  of  natural  origin  but  were  excavated, 
it    is     supposed,     thirteen    hundred     years    ago,    for     Hindu 


r 


O 
< 

a 

o 


c 


C5 


264  DELHI   TO   BOMBAY. 

temples.  In  the  process,  pillars  of  rock  were  left  standing, 
and  these  were  sculptured  with  images  of  gods  of  massive 
proportions.  Various  shrines  were  cut  out  of  solid  rock  many 
of  which  remain  intact.  When  the  country  fell  into  the  hands 
of  the  Portuguese,  those  over-zealous  biiiots  thou2;ht  to 
destroy  heathenism  by  battering  down  this  wonderful  monu- 
ment of  skill  and  labor.  They  fired  cannon  balls  at  the  sup- 
porting pillars  and  succeeded  in  breaking  down  some  of  them, 
but  not  in  demolishing  the  caves  entirely.  The  main  apart- 
ment is  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet  square,  and  is  supported 
by  thirty-six  pillars.  In  one  place  the  triad  of  Hindu  gods  is 
together.  The  figure  is  eighteen  feet  in  height  and  of  pro- 
portionate size. 

Seventy-five  miles  from  Bombay  is  the  city  of  Poonah, 
celebrated  as  the  home  of  many  learned  Brahmans.  Here  is 
located  the  school  of  Pundita  Ramabai,  who  has  espoused  the 
cause  of  the  Hindu  widows.  A  Hindu  and  a  stranger,  she 
left  her  country  for  England  where  she  learned  the  language 
and  found  her  Saviour.  From  there  she  crossed  the  Atlantic 
and  traversed  the  United  States,  lecturing  and  collecting  funds 
with  which  to  establish  a  home  and  a  school  for  these  poor 
outcasts.  It  was  a  great  privilege  to  spend  a  few  hours  at 
this  home  to  witness  the  laudable  efforts  which  this  noble 
woman  and  her  associates  are  putting  forth,  and  the  apparent 
success  which  is  attending  their  efforts.  Xo  particular  con- 
straint in  religious  matters  is  brought  to  bear  upon  the  inmates, 
but  a  healthful  Christian  atmosphere  pervades  the  place,  which 
exercises  a  silent  but  powerful  influence.  It  was  a  joy  to  see 
the  happiness  of  these  girls  who  had  been  rescued  from  a  life 
worse  than  death.  Poonah  is  a  beautiful  city,  the  most  beau- 
tiful spot  in  which  is  that  happy  home  where  life  and  light 
beam  brightly  for  those  who  have  been  rescued  from  hopeless 
despair. 


ADIEU    INDIA. 


E  have  now  passed  another  stage  in  our  journey. 
From  the  decks  of  the  '•  Clyde "  Ave  view  with 
regret  the  vanishing  shores  of  this  strange  world. 
Regret?  —  Yes;  because  in  the  brief  time  during 
which  we  have  associated  with  the  people  of  India,  we  have 
come  to  love  them  as  belonging  to  the  great  human  brother- 
hood and  family  of  God.  Those  we  have  met  of  our  own  race 
have  been  unstinted  in  their  kindness  and  hospitality.  Meet- 
ing them  as  strangers,  they  have  proved  to  be  brothers  and 
sisters. 

No  one  could  be  insensible  to  the  fiiults  of  the  natives,  but 
let  it  be  remembered  that  faults  are  the  universal  characteris- 
tics of  humanity  wherever  it  is  found.  From  their  standpoint 
they  are  not  more  faulty  than  other  people.  They  are  genial, 
docile,  and  grateful  for  the  smallest  favors.  Kind  and  atten- 
tive to  the  wants  of  strangers,  they  seem  to  take  delight  in 
pleasing  those  whom  they  serve.  In  their  social  relations, 
impurity  is  rare.  Among  themselves  the  family  ties  are  held 
sacred,  and  for  degraded  womanhood  we  must  look  to  the  low 
haunts  of  vicious  white  people. 

For  more  than  three  hundred  years,  rej)uted  Christianity  in 
some  of  its  forms,  true  or  false,  has  been  proclaimed  in  India. 
And  although  something  has  been  done,  we  often  wonder 
that  more  has  not  beenaccomplished,  until  we  obtain  an  under- 
standing of  the  relation  of  the  teachings  of  those  who  advocate 
Christianity  to   the  minds  of  the    Hindus.      When  we  have 

[265] 


266  -  ADIEU  INDIA. 

obtained    this,   our  wonderment    is    sure    to    be    considerably 
modified. 

For  the  purposes  of  this  discussion,  it  will  be  best  to 
divide  the  people  into  two  classes,  the  learned  and  the  igno- 
rant. This  is  by  no  means  an  imaginary  classification;  but  it 
is  a  significant  reality  in  that  country ;  for  while  under  favor- 
able circumstances  the  ignorant  classes  are  affected  in  some 
districts  in  a  remarkable  manner,  there  are  but  very  few  of 
the  educated  Hindus  who  accept  Christianity.  It  is  certainly 
very  desirable  that  these  should  be  reached  ;  for  thus  both 
classes  would  be  brought  under  the  direct  influences  of  the 
gospel. 

No  doubt  the  principal  reason  why  the  higher  classes  look 
so  indifierently  or  so  contemptuously  upon  Christianity,  is 
that  they  see  no  use  for  it.  Could  they  be  convinced  of  the 
superior  utility  of  that  religion,  no  doubt  many  would  lay 
aside  prejudice  and  embrace  the  better  faith.  The  religion  of 
the  Bible  needs  to  be  faithfully  represented  in  order  to  be 
appreciated  by  the  Hindus.  They  are  not  an  irreligious  peo- 
ple, groveling  in  fetichism,  but  an  intensely  religious  people, 
having  what  is  to  them  a  philosophical  and  symmetrical  faith, 
one  which  their  ancestors  have  held  for  ages  past.  Therefore 
their  first  inquiry  is  apt  to  be.  What  will  Christianity  do  for 
us  more  than  our  own  religion  is  doing  ?  What  has  it  done 
for  the  people  in  yowv  country  ?  Have  you  atheists  there  ? 
We  have  none.  Do  you  hear  profane  oaths  in  Christian 
lands  ?  We  hear  none.  Do  you  have  drunkenness  and 
uncleanness  ?  We  have  them,  but  to  a  small  degree  except 
as  we  receive  them  from  Christendom. 

It  will  not  be  admitted  that  any  of  these  pertain  to  Chris- 
tianity ;  they  are  directly  opposed  to  its  spirit  and  teaching ; 
yet  the  fact  that  they  prevail  in  what  we  call  Christian  lands, 
and  do  not  exist  in  what  we  call  heathendom,  causes   Chris- 


OBSTACLES   TO    CHRISTIANITY.  267 

tianity  to  appear  at  a  great  disadvantage  to  the  informed 
Hindu.  The  enemy  has  sown  tares  in  the  Master's  field,  and 
both  wheat  and  tares  are  growing  together,  for  which  reason  it 
is  but  natural  that  critics  and  opposers  should  point  to  the 
tares  as  the  legitimate  fruit  of  the  gospel  seed.  These  evils 
would  not  be  so  great  if  they  were  confined  to  our  home  coun- 
tries;  but  wherever  the  cross  is  carried,  Satan  goes  also,  to 
plant  his  ensign  of  darkness.  Much  could  be  done  if  pro- 
fessed Christians  would  carefully  and  consistently  avoid  all 
appearance  of  evil,  and  show  that  Christianity  is  something 
altogether  distinct  from  these  forms  of  indulgence.  But  many 
professed  Christians  make  the  exigencies  of  the  climate  an 
excuse  for  doing  things  that  are  not  consistent  with  pure  re- 
ligion. No  excuse  for  intemperance  or  the  indulgence  of 
appetite  exists.  The  religion  of  the  Bible  is  adapted  to  all 
climatic  conditions ;  its  pure  principles  are  everywhere  condu- 
ci^e  to  life  and  health. 

The  next  great  obstacle  that  exists  we  believe  to  be  the 
imaginary  similarity  between  Christianity  and  the  false  relig- 
ions. We  are  often  told  by  Indians  of  supposed  education 
and  culture,  that  there  is  but  little,  and  no  very  essential  dif- 
ference between  the  system  taught  by  Christians  and  that 
which  they  hold.  Nor  are  the  Indians  the  only  ones  who  so 
regard  this  matter.  Prominent  men  of  our  own  race  have 
expatiated  upon  this  discovery  with  particular  delight ;  and 
nothing  could  please  Satan  any  better  than  to  have  the  opinion 
prevail  that  Jesus  Christ,  Buddha,  Confucius,  Zoroaster,  and 
Keshub  Chunder  Sen,  all  taught  the  same  truths  —  that  they 
occupy  a  common  platform ;  moreover,  that  the  Bible,  the 
Vedas,  and  the  Koran  are  all  equally  inspired. 

It  is  true  that  there  are  points  of  resemblance  which  strike 
the  casual  observer,  even  as  a  counterfeit  resembles  the 
genuine.     But  in  reality  there  is  no  more  resemblance  than 


X 


OTHER    OBSTACLES.  269 

there  is  between  a  brass  and  a  gold  coin.  Hence  it  is  a  fatal 
weakness  \x])0\\  the  part  of  Christianity  to  allow  that  a  real 
similarity  exists. 

Furthermore,  it  may  be  claimed  that  most,  if  not  all,  of 
these  points  of  resemblance  grow  out  of  erroneous  interpreta- 
tions of  scriptural  doctrines  by  Christians.  For  instance,  the 
generally  accepted  theory  of  the  natural  immortality  of  man 
forms  the  main  link  of  this  imaginary  chain  of  sympathetic 
likeness.  If  Christian  teachers  rightly  apprehended  the  truth 
of  no  life  beyond  the  present, —  no  immortality  except  through 
faith  in  Christ, —  they  would  possess  a  weapon  with  which 
to  deal  effectual  and  deadly  blows  at  the  whole  system  of 
demonology,  transmigration,  hero-worship,  and  false  gods. 

It  must  be  acknowledged  that  there  is  but  a  step  between 
the  teachings  of  Plato,  which  have  substantially  been  adopted 
alike  by  many  Christians,  and  those  of  more  modern  heathen 
philosophers  upon  this  point;  but  between  the  true  Biblical 
doctrine  and  the  vagaries  of  philosophy,  so-called,  there  is  a 
gulf  so  wide  and  deep  that  there  can  be  no  confounding  them. 

Another  serious  obstacle  to  the  Hindus'  receiving  Christi- 
anity is  the  fact  that  those  who  profess  the  latter  kill  and  eat 
the  sacred  cattle.  All  cattle  are  sacred  to  them,  consequently 
to  kill  a  cow  is  a  crime  compared  to  which  the  killing  of  a  man 
of  the  poorer  classes  is  but  an  insignificant  offense.  And  to  eat 
the  flesh,  is,  if  possible,  still  worse.  Not  infrequently  the 
missionary  gathers  a  crowd  of  listeners,  when  a  priest 
coming  along  will  cry  out,  "This  man  eats  the  cow  and  swine; 
why  do  you  hear  him?"  That  is  enough;  his  crowd  melts 
away,  and  they  hear  him  no  more.  Now  the  fact  is,  that 
after  a  long  period  of  history,  we  find  permission  given  in  the 
Bible  for  the  eating  of  certain  animals ;  it  was,  however,  not 
in  the  original  plan,  nor  is  it  taught  or  advised  by  the  Bible. 
Had  sin  never  entered,  none  would  ever  have  shed  blood  to 


270  ADIEU  INDIA. 

obtain  food.  Nor  is  it  a  necessity  now ;  and  if  Christian 
teachers  in  India  woukl  adopt  and  teach  vegetarian  principles, 
there  is  no  donbt  that  their  influence  for  good  would  be  greatly 
enhanced.  It  would  in  that  climate  be  beneficial  to  themselves, 
as  well  as  disarm  the  strongest  prejudice  against  Christianity 
that  exists. 

Other  points  might  be  specified  in  which  a  consistent  ad- 
herence to  the  literal  teachings  of  the  Scriptures  would  help 
greatly  to  pave  the  way  for  Christianity.  The  Bible,  taken  in 
its  entirety,  with  its  truths  faithfully  reproduced  in  the  lives 
and  teachings  of  the  missionaries,  is  exactly  what  India  needs  ; 
such  a  representation  would  meet  with  a  far  more  effectual 
reception  than  is  now  accorded  to  its  misinterpretations. 

But  even  with  all  these  and  all  such  obstacles  removed, 
India  would  not  freely  accept  ihe  gospel.  Satan,  the  adver- 
sary of  the  truth,  is  still  at  work.  However,  all  will  ap- 
preciate the  fixct  that  the  nearer  the  laborers  come  to  living 
and  teaching  the  simple  truth,  the  more  they  can  expect  of 
God's  blessing  to  accompany  their  efforts.  And  after  all,  the 
want  of  this  blessing  is  the  greatest  obstacle  to  the  success  of 
missionary  efforts  in  India  and  elsewhere. 


INDIA  TO  EGYPT. 


IpIVE  days'  sailing  from  Bombay  across  the  Arabian  Sea 
it  in  a  course  a  little  south  of  west,  brought  us  to  Aden 
at  the  southwestern  extremity  of  Arabia,  a  distance 
of  one  thousand  six  hundred  and  sixty-four  miles.  As 
we  sailed  for  some  hours  along  the  rocky  cliffs  that  form  the 
southern  Arabian  shore,  I  watched  in  vain  for  a  sign  of  verdure, 
seeing  only  one  small  tuft  of  wdiat  appeared  to  be  wild  reeds 
growing  at  the  water's  edge.  Nor  is  there  anything  to  re- 
lieve the  barrenness  as  we  approach  the  port.  Aden  is  located 
on  the  slopes  of  a  high  promontory  of  desert  rocks  and  sand. 
Its  importance  is  derived  from  its  position,  wdiich  makes  it  a 
convenient  coaling  station  and  trans-shipping  point  for  eastern 
African  points,  and  a  military  post  of  strategic  value.  Its 
salubrious  climate,  the  heat  being  tempered  with  sea  breezes, 
and  the  sun  being  rarely  obscured  by  clouds,  is  supposed  to 
have  furnished  the  ancient  Arabs  with  a  reason  for  calling  it 
Aden,  that  is,  Eden,  or  paradise.  The  average  period  of  rain 
does  not  exceed  one  day  in  a  year,  and  sometimes  even  that 
is  missing.  In  the  high  hills  back  of  the  city  the  ancient 
inhabitants  excavated  great  reservoirs  for  storing  the  rain. 
These  were  located  in  ravines ;  and  as  but  little  of  the  water 
soaked  into  the  ground,  in  the  course  of  a  very  few  hours'  rain, 
an  immense  c[uantity  of  water  would  be  collected.  Some  of 
these  reservoirs  have  been  restored,  and  at  present  form  the 
sole  source  of  fresh-water  supply. 

[2713 


272  INDIA    TO   EGYPT. 

Many  years  ago  sagacious  England  saw  the  strategic  value 
of  Aden,  standing  like  a  second  Gibraltar  at  the  entrance  of 
the  Red  Sea.  In  1838  an  English  vessel  was  wrecked  in  the 
vicinity, and  the  survivors  were  very  badly  treated  by  the  Arabs. 
This  furnished  a  pretext  for  demanding  reparation,  and  by  the 
judicious  addition  of  some  money  consideration,  the  old  sultan 
was  induced  to  turn  the  promontory  of  Aden  over  to  Great 
Britain.  He  afterward  changed  his  mind,  but  the  English 
statesmen  did  not  change  theirs.  After  a  few  hours  of  fight- 
ing in  January,  1839,  the  place  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Brit- 
ish government.  Great  Britain  at  once  strongly  fortified  this 
gateway  of  the  East,  which  is  now  rendered  far  more  important 
by  the  opening  of  the  Suez  Canal.  It  is  the  wise  policy  of  Eng- 
land to  sit  entrenched  by  all  the  great  channels  of  commerce. 

We  did  not  go  ashore  here  as  our  stay  was  short  and  there 
is  but  little  to  entice  one  to  make  the  effort.  The  native  city 
is  not  in  sight  from  the  shipping,  but  the  harbor  and  fortifica- 
tions present  a  busy  appearance.  Scarcely  had  we  dropped 
anchor,  before  the  vessel  was  surrounded  by  Somali  boys  on 
little  rude  canoes  or  floats,  who  would  offer  to  dive  for  coins 
This  is  part  of  the  experience  in  every  half-civilized  port  in 
warm  climates,  and  the  agility  of  the  lads  in  diving  and 
scrambling  for  the  money  that  is  thrown  into  the  water,  is 
somewhat  interesting  and  surprising,  but  not  nearly  so  much 
so  as  the  foolishness  of  the  passengers  who  continue  to  throw 
sixpences  and  shillings  away  after  having  seen  the  perform- 
ance scores  of  times.  The  abnormal  but  prevailing  craving  to 
see  human  life  in  jeopardy  manifested  itself  here  by  offering 
an  extra  reward  to  one  of  the  divers  to  climb  to  the  yard-arm, 
and  from  a  height  of  sixty  feet  to  plunge  into  the  water.  This 
is  frequently  done,  but  is  said  to  be  a  very  injurious  practice 
which  soon  ends  the  life  of  the  diver  even  if  an  accident  does 
not  kill  him  outright. 


> 

O 
,0 


-5 


18 


274  INDIA    TO   EGYPT. 

Seven  hours'  sailing  in  the  early  part  of  a  beautiful  moon- 
lit nio'ht  brouuht  us  from  Aden  to  the  strait  of  Bab-el-Mau- 
deb,  the  southern  portal  of  the  Red  Sea.  The  name  signifies 
"  The  gate  of  tears."  A  promontory  over  eight  hundred  feet 
in  height,  of  the  same  name  as  the  strait,  juts  out  from  the 
Arabian  side.  Twenty  miles  across  are  the  rocky  shores  of 
Africa,  nearly  four  hundred  feet  high.  In  the  channel,  two 
miles  from  the  Arabian  side,  is  a  rocky  island  which  divides 
the  strait.  This  island  is  occupied  as  a  British  fort.  The 
currents  here  are  strong,  and  the  place  dangerous  for  small 
vessels.  The  majestic  scenery  in  the  bright  moonlight  well 
repaid  for  the  little  loss  of  sleep  which  the  view  of  it  cost. 

The  Red  Sea  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  bodies  of  water 
mentioned  in  history ;  but  usually  it  occupies  so  small  a  place 
on  our  maps  that  we  are  not  likely  to  gain  a  correct  idea  of  its 
proportions  until  we  become  acquainted  with  it  from  other 
sources  than  ordinary  geographies.  It  is  one  thousand  two 
hundred  miles  in  lenotli  with  an  average  width  of  but  little 
over  one  hundred  miles.  Its  center  affords  a  safe  channel  for 
the  passage  of  vessels,  but  its  coasts  are  rendered  dangerous 
by  many  coral  reefs.  Its  length,  extending  northwest  and 
southeast,  forms  the  principal  portion  of  the  boundary  between 
the  two  continents,  Asia  and  Africa.  Much  of  the  time  the 
shore  is  in  view  on  one  side  or  the  other,  but  everywhere  is 
the  same  drear}^  appearance  of  rocky  or  clay  clifls  or  sandy 
desert  beach. 

The  passage  through  the  Red  Sea  is  usually  much  dreaded 
on  account  of  the  extreme  heat  that  prevails,  especially  at  the 
time  of  year  when  the  sun  is  overhead.  At  that  time  the 
heated  deserts  on  either  side  glow  like  ovens,  and  seem  to 
combine  their  forces  upon  the  narrow  basin  of  w^ater  that  lies 
between.  Deaths  among  passengers  from  the  heat  are  not 
ver}^  uncommon,  and  the  sufferings  of  the  poor  men  who  have 


THE  RED   SEA.  275 

to  shovel  coal  into  the  fiery  furnaces  far  down  below  the 
water  line  can  hardly  be  imagined.  We  were  destined  to  be 
highly  favored,  for  the  weather  was  not  uncomfortably  hot, 
except  during  a  very  small  period  of  our  journey.  But  several 
of  the  firemen,  who  are  all  of  them  negroes,  w^ere  brought  to  the 
deck  in  a  fainting  condition,  and  were  restored  by  having  buck- 
ets of  cold  water  repeatedly  dashed  over  them.  The  next  morn- 
ing after  entering  this  sea,  we  found  ourselves  sailing  before  a 
brisk  southern  gale.  Suddenly  we  became  aware  that  our  ship 
had  lost  its  vigor,  and  soon,  "  The  engines  have  stopped ! "  "  The 
engines  have  stopped  !  "  passed  from  one  to  another.  This  is 
always  one  of  the  most  unwelcome  episodes  of  ocean  travel, 
for  there  are  such  a  multitude  of  contingent  mishaps  that  may 
appear  as  the  cause  that  there  is  any  amount  of  uneasiness 
until  the  cause  is  explained.  And  then  the  knowledge  that 
we  were  in  a  narrow  channel  and  drifting  before  a  strong  wind 
out  of  our  course  did  not  relieve  the  situation  in  our  minds. 
Soon  our  vessel  was  "in  the  trough  of  the  sea;"  that  is,  it 
was  lying  broadside  to  the  waves  and  tumbling  out  of  one 
trough  into  another  as  fast  as  the  troughs  came  along.  The 
calm  assurance  of  the  officers,  who  told  us  that  we  were  all 
right  and  w^ould  be  running  in  an  hour,  helped  to  put  us  at 
our  ease ;  but  that  which  gave  us  full  assurance  was  to  feel 
once  more  the  strong  but  almost  silent  pulse-beats  of  the  great 
iron  heart  of  the  ship,  and  to  see  our  good  vessel  turn  its 
sharp  prow  into  the  waves  and  cleave  them  asunder  as  if  it 
were  but  sport. 

From  Thursday  at  midnight  till  Monday  afternoon  we  were 
on  the  Red  Sea.  Early  Monday  morning  we  entered  the 
western  of  the  two  branches  into  which  the  sea  divides  at  its 
northern  end.  This  is  called  the  Gulf  of  Suez,  and  it  forms 
one  of  the  boundaries  of  the  Sinaitic  peninsula.  Soon  after 
entering  this  most  interesting  tract  of  water,  Captain  Parfit 


27G  INDIA  TO  EGYPT. 

kindly  invited  me  to  his  chart  room,  and  took  pains  to  point 
out  our  location,  which  showed  that  we  were  within  forty  miles 
of  Mt.  Sinai.  Its  top,  seven  thousand  feet  high,  could  not  be 
seen  on  account  of  an  intervening  coast  range  two  thousand  feet 
in  height.  Soon  we  were  sailing  along  the  coast  down  which 
the  children  of  Israel  must  have  passed  in  their  march  from 
Egypt.  Whatever  the  country  may  have  been  at  that  time, 
it  is  certainly  most  dreary  and  uninviting  now.  It  is  easy  to 
understand  from  one's  own  experiences  that  they  simply  gave 
way  to  the  most  natural  kind  of  feelings  when  they  complained 
at  being  led  out  of  the  rich  fields  of  Egypt  into  such  a  region. 
But  as  it  is  our  privilege  to  look  above  immediate  surroundings 
and  live  and  walk  by  faith,  so  it  was  theirs. 

In  all  the  route  visible  from  the  decks  of  vessels  there  is 
but  one  verdant  spot,  and  that  is  called  "  Ain  Mousa,"  or  the 
Well  of  Moses.  It  is  a  few  miles  from  Suez,  and  consists  of 
a  cluster  of  low  palm  trees  and  a  pool  of  fresh  water.  By 
some    it  is  thought  to  be  identical  with  Elim.     Ex.  15:  27. 

But  of  this  there  is  no  certainty.  Just  before  reaching  Suez, 
on  tlie  west  side,  is  pointed  out  the  defile  down  which  the 
children  of  Israel  marched  when  they  Avere  confronted  by  the 
sea.  But  this  is  even  more  improbable  than  the  tradition  con- 
cerning the  other  place. 

Suez  stands  at  the  head  of  the  gulf  and  at  the  southern 
outlet  of  the  famous  Suez  canal.  Its  harbor  was  beautifully 
placid  on  that  afternoon,  and  we  could  look  down  into  the  clear 
water  to  a  great  depth.  Our  ship  cast  anchor,  and  we  waited 
for  our  turn  to  come  to  pass  into  the  canal;  for  there  are  so 
many  vessels  that  order  must  be  preserved,  and  A^essels  move 
only  by  orders  from  on  shore,  as  trains  move  from  station  to 
station  by  orders  from  the  train-dispatcher. 

The  town  is  partly  French  and  partly  Arabic,  and  is  de- 
pendent upon  the  canal  for  importance  and  livelihood.     Some 


JUGGLERY.  277 

very  clever  jugglers  came  on  board  at  this  point  and  amused 
us  with  their  tricks,  one  or  two  of  which  were  as  follows  :  Tak- 
ing a  strij)  of  muslin  four  yards  long,  the  juggler  asked  for  a 
knife  with  which  he  sawed  the  cloth  in  two  in  the  middle. 
The  separated  pieces  were  held  u})  before  us.  A  match  was 
lio'hted,  and  the  ends  of  the  cloth  were  set  afire  and  then 
quenched,  but  we  could  easily  see  where  they  had  been 
burned.  Then  holding  the  ends  of  the  cloth  behind  him  a 
moment,  he  presented  the  piece  of  cloth  whole  without  sign  of 
cutting  or  fire.  He  asked  a  passenger  to  show  him  a  shilling, 
which  he  took ;  and  after  examining  it  a  moment,  handed  it 
back  with  the  injunction  to  hold  it  tightly  in  his  hand  lest  he 
should  lose  it.  He  asked  the  Englishman  if  he  had  the 
shilling.  '•  Yes,"  was  the  reply,  and  he  exhibited  it  safely  in 
the  palm  of  his  hand.  Again  he  was  told  to  watch  it  closely 
lest  he  lose  it.  After  fumbling  in  his  bag  a  moment,  the 
trickster  again  asked  if  he  was  sure  he  had  the  shilling.  "  Yes, 
Aery  sure,"  was  the  reply.  "Well,  look,"  said  the  juggler; 
and  lo.  it  was  a  half-penny.  But  none  of  us  saw  him  touch 
the  man's  hand,  and  no  one  was  so  much  surprised  as  the 
Englishman  himself.  In  about  two  hours  we  received  the 
sitrnal  for  which  we  were  waitino-,  and  soon  were  sailing  across 
a  desert  of  sand  instead  of  the  waste  of  waters. 

The  dimensions  of  the  canal  are  about  as  follows  :  Width 
at  the  bottom,  seventy-two  feet;  depth  of  water,  twenty-six 
feet;  length,  eighty-three  miles.  To  prevent  the  wash  of  the 
banks,  no  greater  speed  than  five  miles  an  hour  is  allowed. 
At  short  distances  apart  are  located  turning-out  places  wdiere 
a  ship  may  lie  close  to  the  bank  wdiile  another  passes.  And 
no  vessel  can  pass  one  of  these  places  unless  permission  is 
given  by  a  semaphore  on  the  bank.  The  canal  forms  a  con- 
gested artery  of  commerce  through  Avhich  the  ships  of  all 
nations  are  continually  crowding,  though  one  may  have  to  look 


ifj 


X 


THE   GREAT   CANAL.  279 

a  long  time  before  he  sees  the  stars  and  stripes.  The  stupen- 
dous character  of  the  undertaking  becomes  apparent  as  one 
passes  through  the  bug  channel  which  is  lined  on  each  side  by 
a  small  range  of  sand  mountains  thrown  out  by  the  excavators. 
And  its  maintenance  gives  employment  to  a  large  army  of 
workers  of  various  crafts  and  callings.  The  controlling  inter- 
ests are  in  English  hands,  though  direct  management  of  the 
business  is  under  the  French. 

The  country  traversed  by  the  canal  is  a  barren  waste  of 
sand,  and  from  the  decks  of  the  vessels  one  may  obtain 
glimpses  of  desert  Arab  life  in  which  wretched  poverty,  big 
and  little  Arabs,  and  camels  were  mixed  up  in  scenes  of  the 
utmost  desolation.  How  little  we  who  live  surrounded  by  all 
that  makes  life  pleasant  realize  the  utter  destitution  in  which 
the  lives  of  a  great  portion  of  earth's  inhabitants  are  spent. 

The  town  of  Ismailia  is  located  midway  on  the  canal,  and 
at  this  point  we  took  leave  of  the  "  Clyde."  It  was  ten 
o'clock  in  the  evening  when  we  reached  the  lake  upon  which 
the  place  is  situated,  and  the  night  was  as  "  dark  as  Egypt." 
A  small  launch  came  out  for  passengers  and  mail.  A  half 
hour  was  sufficient  to  make  the  transfer  from  the  decks  of  the 
steamship  to  the  genial  comforts  of  a  nice  bed  in  a  French 
hotel.  A  railway  runs  the  length  of  the  canal,  and  at  Ismailia 
branches  off  to  Cairo  and  Alexandria. 

An  American's  first  experience  with  a  French  breakfast  is 
apt  to  make  a  lasting  impression,  so  I  will  relate  mine.  Being 
a  little  more  than  usually  hungry  at  the  proper  time,  I  took 
my  seat  at  the  table  upon  which  there  was  bread  and  butter. 
I  was  alone  in  the  dining  room  except  for  a  solitary  waiter. 
Soon  it  became  apparent  that  I  was  doing  the  principal 
amount  of  waiting,  and  I  called  the  young  man's  attention  to 
the  fact  that  I  would  like  some  breakfast.  He  replied  that  I 
was  to  help  myself.     But  not  being  particularly  fond  of  either 


280 


INDIA    TO   EGYPT. 


bread  or  butter,  I  intiiuatetl  that  it  would  be  a  proper  thing 
for  him  to  bring  on  something  to  eat.  He  asked  me  if  I  de- 
sired coffee,  and  when  I  tohl  him.  No,  he  was  through,  for  he 
said  that  was  all  that  they  had  for  breakftist,  but  that  lunch 
came  at  eleven  o'clock.  I  w^as  not  in  any  condition  to  dally, 
so  I  told  him  in  simple  English  to  bring  me  something  to  eat 
if  he  had  anything  in  the  house ;  and  he  being  persuaded  of 
my  honest  intentions,  I  succeeded  in  making  a  comfortable 
breakfast.  AVith  the  P]ngiish,  the  heavy  dinner  in  the  evculiig 
does  not  forestall  the  breakfast,  though  it  is  often  fjuite 
meager  enough  for  one  who  insists  upon  eating  his  dinner  near 
mid-day  ;  but  in  French  usage  it  seems  almost  to  supersede 
the  idea  of  any  breakfast. 


Suez  Canal. 


EGYPT. 


tant. 


[J2SMAILIA  is  a  town  of  three  thousand  inhabitants,  one 
half  of  whom  are  Arabs^  and  the  other  half  French 
who  work  for  the  canal  company.  About  noon  the 
train  left  for  Cairo,  one  hundred  and  forty  miles  dis- 
A  fresh-water  canal  connects  the  Nile  and  the  Suez 
canal  at  this  point,  and  after  a  few  miles  of  desert  we  struck 
the  fertile  region  along  its  bank's.  It  is  utilized  for  light  traf- 
fic, but  principally  for  purposes  of  irrigation.  In  Egypt  there 
appears  to  be  but  two  qualities  of  land,  one  of  which  is  barren 
desert  sand  and  the  other  is  the  most  fertile  and  productive 
soil  to  be  found.  The  line  of  demarkation  between  these  is  so 
sharp  that  one  may  step  almost  at  a  single  stride  from  one  to 
the  other.  Wherever  the  influence  of  the  beneficent  waters  of 
the  Nile  reaches,  there  is  life  in  an  abundant  measure  3  else- 
where there  is  nothing  but  desolation. 

As  we  enter  this  fertile  strip,  the  words  of  inspiration 
spoken  in  the  days  of  Abraham  come  forcibly  to  mind.  In 
describing  the  beautiful  valley  in  which  wealthy  Sodom  was 
situated,  it  is  said  that  it  was  "  even  as  the  garden  of  the 
Lord,  like  the  land  of  Egypt,  as  thou  comest  unto  Zoar." 
The  land  is  densely  populated,  and  every  individual  is  em- 
ployed in  extracting  from  the  ground  its  liberal  fruitage.  The 
various  processes  of  agriculture  are  being  carried  forward  at 
the  same  time  side  by  side.  We  could  see  the  people  plow- 
ing, planting,  cultivating,  reaping,  and  threshing  as  we  rodc^ 
along  in  a  comfortable  railway  carriage. 

[  281  ] 


282  EGYPT. 

To  the  people  of  India,  their  sacred  river  is  always 
"Mother  Ganges,"  and  the  great  blessings  which  that  noble 
flood  confers  upon  the  thirsty  land  justify  the  endearing  title. 
But  if  this  be  true  in  the  case  of  the  Ganges  and  India,  how 
much  more  appropriately  might  the  term  "  Father  Nile "  be 
applied  to  this  noble  stream  by  the  people  of  that  country 
which  is  not  only  moistened  by  its  waters,  but  is  nourished  and 
renewed  by  its  contributions.  This  idea  is  beautifully  repre- 
sented in  a  piece  of  sculpture  now  in  the  Vatican  Gallery,  and 
shown  in  the  engraving.  "  Father  Nile  "  holds  in  one  hand  a 
sheaf  of  grain,  in  the  other,  a  cornucopia,  while  his  children 
literally  "  live  on  him."  Every  acre  of  cultivable  land  is 
apparently  deposited  from  the  Nile  ;  at  least  it  is  an  alluvial 
deposit;  whether  the  result  of  the  flood  or  of  inundations 
preceding  or  succeeding  that  convulsion,  it  is  not  necessary  to 
consider  at  this  time. 

Egypt  is  divided  into  the  Upper  and  the  Lower  sec- 
tions. The  Avestern  confines  of  the  country  extend  into 
the  undefined  and  undisputed  regions  of  the  Great  Desert. 
South  of  the  country  lies  the  Soudan,  Twelve  or  fifteen 
years  ago  the  southern  border  was  located  provisionally  at 
Wady  Haifa,  eight  hundred  miles  from  the  Mediterranean. 
The  Upper  Country  depends  solely  upon  the  annual  inunda- 
tions of  the  river  for  irrigation  ;  and  as  there  is  but  little  or  no 
rain,  only  one  crop  is  raised  during  the  year.  In  the  Lower 
Country,  however,  and  especially  in  the  Delta  region,  there  is 
a  perfect  network  of  artificial  canals,  by  which  the  water  may 
be  distributed  to  nearly  every  rod  of  land.  To  get  the  water 
out  of  the  canals,  the  "shadoof,"  or  bucket  and  sweep,  is  used, 
as  are  also  pumping-wheels  turned  by  oxen,  and  many  other 
rude  contrivances.  Here  three  or  four  crops  are  harvested  in 
the  year.  By  the  first  of  November,  the  ground  is  dry  after 
the  overflow,  and  then  cereals  are   sown  to  be  harvested  in 


> 


2 


X 


284  EGYPT. 

March.  Sugar-cane,  rice,  and  cotton  grow  from  March  to 
September;  and  millet,  sorghum,  etc.,  from  June  to  Septem- 
ber, when  the  overflow  comes  on. 

The  river  begins  to  rise  at  Cairo  in  the  latter  part  of  June, 
and  is  at  its  height  at  the  autumnal  equinox.  A  twenty-four- 
foot  rise  at  this  point  is  a  favorable  overflow.  Four  feet  less 
is  very  scant,  and  three  feet  more  is  a  disastrous  flood,  to  be 
followed  by  fevers  and  murrain.  At  each  overflow,  there  is 
deposited  all  over  the  country  about  an  inch  of  sediment, 
which  renews  the  soil  year  by  year,  so  that  it  still  responds 
liberally  to  the  husbandman's  labor,  though  it  has  borne  the 
burden  of  a  dense  population  from  the  remotest  ages.  Such 
fticts  probably  prompted  the  inspired  poet  to  write,  "  There 
is  a  river,  the  streams  whereof  shall  make  glad  the  city  of 
God." 

Since  the  Lord  told  Ezekiel  to  write  the  doom  of  Egypt,  it 
has  been  indeed  "  the  basest  of  kingdoms,"  full  of  poverty, 
ignorance,  and  darkness.  From  an  exalted  position  among 
nations,  it  became  the  fag-end  of  humanity,  a  victim  of  every 
adverse  fortune  in  the  Eastern  v^^orld.  Every  wind  that  blew 
was  ill  for  Egypt ;  and  her  calamities  reached  a  climax  when 
at  last  she  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Turks.  This  wretched 
government,  one  of  the  most  unprincipled  and  unscrupulous 
that  ever  existed,  blights  everything  it  touches.  Other  na- 
tions have  stood  up  for  some  of  her  rights,  and  so  Egypt  is 
emerging,  to  some  degree,  from  the  darkness  into  which  she 
fell,  long. ago. 

The  road  from  Ismailia  to  Cairo  is  an  exceedingly  interest- 
ing  one,  though  rendered  somewhat  disagreeable  by  the  un- 
ballasted condition  of  the  railway,  there  being  no  gravel  to 
keep  down  the  dust  which  rises  in  dense  clouds.  But  the 
country  is  an  ever-changing  panorama  of  country  life  with  a 
crowded  population  busy  delving  in  the  soil. 


CAIRO.  285 

Cairo  was  reached  at  dark,  too  late  for  inspection  that  eve- 
ning, but  upon  looking  abroad  in  the  early  morning,  the  view 
caused  feelings  of  surprise.  Instead  of  a  crazy  Arab  town, 
moldering  with  antiquity  and  tumbling  into  ruin,  there  were 
beautiful  gardens,  fine  buildings,  magnificent  streets  full  of 
busy  life  in  such  variety  as  greets  the  eyes  in  very  few  other 
places  upon  earth.  Cairo  is  a  city  of  four  hundred  thousand 
inhabitants,  and  in  the  winter  season  its  delightful  climate 
attracts  from  Europe  and  America  throngs  of  wealthy  visitors 
who  fill  its  sumptuous  hotels,  and  crowd  its  streets  with  their 
gay  equipages.  Mingled  with  these  are  representatives  of 
every  oriental  nation  near  and  remote,  wearing  the  gaudy  cos- 
tumes peculiar  to  their  countries.  There  are  also  native 
elements  of  all  classes.  And  stirred  into  the  mixture  is  a 
multitude  of  camels  and  donkeys. 

A  few  street-cars  are  slowly  hauled  about  without  rails, 
and  there  are  carriages  for  the  wealthy,  but  ordinarily  the 
traveler  mounts  a  donkey.  If  he  does  not,  it  will  not  be  the 
fault  of  numerous  donkey-boys  who  beset  him  to  '"  try  General 
Grant,"  or  "  ride  Wellington,"  or  "  try  Disraeli,"  or  ''  Glad- 
stone," and  will  follow  for  blocks  in  the  hope  of  inducing  the 
determined  pedestrian  to  ride.  Having  decided  to  ride,  he 
easily  bestrides  his  little  porter  and  seizes  the  stearing  gear, 
while  the  motive  is  supplied  by  the  owner  who  runs  behind 
armed  with  a  stout  stick  with  which  he  whacks  the  beast  vig- 
orously and  induces  quite  commendable  speed.  The  journey 
finished,  and  the  fare  paid,  the  boy  looks  for  another  customer. 

No  attempt  at  description  or  imitation  will  give  any  just 
idea  of  what  a  Cairo  bazaar  is  like.  Such  a  motley  crowd  of 
pushing  and  shouting  natives  and  foreigners;  such  a  strange 
mixture  of  kinds  and  colors,  both  in  wares  and  people,  it  would 
be  difficult  to  picture  even  in  imagination.  The  bazaars,  old 
Cairo,  situated  two  or  three  miles  up  the  river,  the  Mosque  of 


o 

CO 


THE  PYRAMID  IS.  287 

Hassan,  and  the  Citadel,  are  the  most  notable  objects  of  inter- 
est immediately  at  hand,  though  others  of  greater  attraction 
and  importance  are  to  be  found  not  far  away. 

The  Gizeh  Pyramids  are  on  the  western  border  of  the  Nile 
valley,  seven  miles  southwest  of  Cairo.  The  road  by  which 
they  are  reached  is  built  up  across  the  alluvial  valley  lands, 
and  is  bounded  on  each  side  by  a  beautiful  row  of  cassia  trees. 
The  appearance  of  the  pyramids  as  one  approaches  them  is 
not  very  impressive.  Their  age  gives  them  from  a  distance 
the  appearance  of  great  heaps  of  crumbling  adobe  ;  but  upon 
closer  inspection,  their  real  proportions  appear,  and  their 
material  proves  to  be  durable  rock.  Some  blocks  have  fallen 
away  and  have  been  removed,  causing  the  ragged  appearance 
from  a  distance. 

The  great  pyramid  is  first  reached.  It  is  four  hundred  and 
eighty  feet  high  and  seven  hundred  and  sixty-four  feet  square 
at  the  base.  The  area  covered  is  about  twelve  acres.  Most 
visitors  are  anxious  to  accomplish  the  ascent.  As  the  monu- 
ment rises,  each  successive  course  of  stones  recedes,  thus 
forming  convenient  steps  excepting  that  the  rise  of  three  feet 
or  more  is  too  great  for  the  measure  of  ordinary  legs.  But 
there  is  a  crowd  of  Arab  guides,  curiosity  sellers,  and  beggars 
at  hand,  each  one  anxious  to  sell  his  assistance  for  a  small 
sum,  which  generally  goes  up  as  the  ascent  is  made. 

For  ages  the  significance  of  the  great  pyramids  was  a  mystery 
concerning  which  they  themselves  were  as  silent  as  the  lips  of 
the  Sphynx  which  keeps  them  company.  But  modern  inquisit- 
iveness  has  pried  into  their  secret.  A  pathway  was  found  to  the 
innermost  recesses  of  the  great  Cheops,  and  at  the  extremity 
of  each  passage  were  found  the  remains  of  ancient  royalty. 
Their  sarcophagi  contained  not  only  the  well-preserved  mum- 
mies of  the  family  of  that  great  king  whose  name  has  been 
attached  to  his  wonderful  monument,  but  such  other  evidence 


288  EGYPT. 

as  enables  the  discoverers  to  identify  the  builder    and    thus 
locate  the  time  of  its  construction. 

My  ambition  led  me  to  explore  the  interior,  rather  than  to 
ascend  to  the  apex.  This  required  the  assistance  of  three  men. 
The  entrance,  about  thirty  feet  from  the  base,  is  a  passage  three 
by  four  feet  in  dimensions.  At  first  it  descends  at  an  angle  of 
about  thirty  degrees  for  sixty-two  feet,  then  becomes  level,  but 
so  low  as  to  be  but  little  more  than  barely  passalde.  We  then 
ascended  ninety  feet  to  the  mouth  of  the  well  at  the  bottom 
of  which  is  located  the  burial  place  of  a  daughter  of  the  king. 
From  this  point  a  level  gallery  leads  to  the  chamber  of  the 
queen.  The  "  grand  passage,"  six  and  a  half  feet  wide  and 
twenty-six  feet  high,  leads  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  higher 
to  the  sarcophagus  of  the  king.  Two  flues  here  provide  the 
ventilation  of  which  by  this  time  we  felt  the  utmost  need. 
The  massive  granite  blocks  which  line  the  spacious  chambers 
are  so  closely  joined  as  to  admit  of  no  mortar,  nor  can  the 
thinnest  blade  be  thrust  between  them.  It  was  a  novel 
trip,  rather  trying  to  nerve  and  muscle,  but  exceedingly 
interesting. 

Ten  minutes'  walk  from  the  pyramids  is  the  equally  cele- 
brated Sphynx,  consisting  of  an  immense  image  having  the 
head  of  a  woman  and  the  body  of  a  lion.  It  was  anciently  an 
object  of  worship,  and  its  temple,  now  in  ruins,  stood  near 
by.  This  temple  was  the  burial-place  of  its  votaries,  and  the 
numerous  mummies  found  there  now  adorn  various  museums. 

To  the  ethnologist  and  the  antiquarian,  the  celebrated 
Gizeh  Museum,  situated  in  a  luxuriant  garden  on  the  road 
to  the  pyramids,  is  one  of  the  most  inviting  spots  on  earth. 
The  large  building  consists  of  forty  galleries  stored  witli 
sculptures,  tablets,  and  implements  of  the  most  ancient  times 
in  endless  array.  These  tell  a  mute  but  vivid  story  of  the  arts 
and  customs  of  those  times.     One  room  is  called  the  royal  gal- 


The  Sphynx. 


[289] 


19 


290  EGYPT. 

lery,  in  which  are  arranged  the  mummies  of  the  Pharaohs  who 
reigned  over  Egypt  for  more  than  two  thousand  years.  As 
they  lie  in  their  glass  cases,  they  tell  the  visitor  an  eloquent 
story  without  words,  of  earthly  glory,  which  vanishes  like  the 
flowers  of  the  field  that  blossom  for  a  moment,  and  are  then 
gone  forever.  The  most  interesting  one  to  me  was  that  of 
Rameses  II,  the  oppressor  of  Israel.  His  lips,  teeth,  and 
entire  countenance  are  still  preserved,  and  one  can  almost 
hear  his  words  of  defiance  and  cruelty.  With  what  strange  sen- 
sations does  one  gaze  into  the  features  of  a  man  who  acted  a 
prominent  part  in  sacred  history  previous  to  the  exode  ! 

The  beginning  of  Egyptian  history  extends  back  into  the 
misty  regions  of  tradition ;  but  at  the  point  where  its  lines 
become  legible,  it  reveals  a  nation  standing  at  the  forefront  of 
its  contemporaries  in  power,  vigor,  art,  science,  or  any  other 
element  of  greatness.  In  this  position  Egypt  incurred  the 
divine  displeasure  for  two  reasons  :  She  vaunted  herself  and 
her  gods  in  the  sight  of  Jehovah ;  and  often  became  an  asy- 
lum and  protector  of  the  Jews,  who  when  under  punishment 
for  their  sins,  instead  of  humbling  themselves  with  repentance, 
would  flee  for  help  to  their  haughty  neighbor.  For  these 
things  God  said  of  Egypt,  as  recorded  in  Eze.  29  :  15,  "  It 
shall  be  the  basest  of  the  kingdoms  ;  neither  shall  it  exalt 
itself  any  more  above  the  nations." 

Since  then  that  country  has  had  its  share  of  adversity. 
Each  of  the  four  great  kingdoms  of  prophecy  served  itself  of 
Egypt,  nor  has  she  fared  better  at  the  hands  of  the  Arabs  and 
Turks.  Her  natural  resources  have  been  better  preserved 
than  those  of  any  other  portion  of  the  ancient  world,  so  that 
the  calamities  which  have  befallen  the  unfortunate  land  are  to 
be  attributed  to  political  rather  than  natural  causes. 

It  is  not  a  little  strange  that  the  procession  of  knowledge, 
enlightenment,  and   empire  from  east  to   west  should   leave 


ALEXANDRIA.  291 

behind  it  such  an  array  of  blackened,  unsightly  ruins  of  de- 
parted greatness.  As  in  the  natural  world  the  advancement 
of  the  day  in  the  west  brings  night  upon  the  Orient,  so  the 
sun  of  liberty  and  progress  shining  high  in  our  western 
heavens  has  left  the  earlier  world  sitting  in  darkness. 

Mohammedanism  has  swept  away  from  Egypt  her  ancient 
mythology.  In  the  early  centuries  of  our  era,  Christianity 
thrived  there.  The  Alexandrian  Church  furnished  some  of 
the  most  distinguished  of  the  "  Fathers."  The  remains  of 
that  movement  now  exist  in  the  Copts.  But  what  Chris- 
tianity they  may  have  had,  disappeared  beneath  a  thick  sod 
of  superstition  and  human  traditions.  Mission  work  is  prose- 
cuted among  them  to  some  extent,  and  with  some  success. 

The  city  of  Alexandria,  in  the  delta  of  the  Nile,  preserves 
the  name  and  memory  of  one  of  the  most  famous  of  ancient 
warriors,  Alexander  the  Great,  who  was  its  founder  in  the  year 
332  B.  c.  Thirty  years  before  our  era  it  fell  into  the  hands  of 
the  llomans  at  the  time  of  its  greatest  splendor.  From  that 
time  it  began  to  decline,  for  its  treasures  Avere  taken  to  Rome, 
and  many  of  its  inhabitants  were  victims  of  the  imperial 
cruelty.  By  the  fourth  century  it  is  said  that  hardly  an  an- 
cient building  of  note  remained  except  the  temple  of  Serapis. 
In  389  A.  D.,  this  last  stronghold  of  heathenism  in  the  city  was 
destroyed,  and  a  Catholic  church  was  built  among  the  ruins. 
Alexandria  thus  became  one  of  the  chief  seats  of  Catholicism 
until  it  was  taken  by  the  Arabs  in  638.  Since  then  it  has  had 
a  checkered  career  of  prosperity  and  desolation,  but  at  present 
it  contains  over  two  hundred  thousand  people,  and  is  one  of 
the  most  important  commercial  centers  on  the  Mediterranean. 

Tourists  spend  little  time  here,  but  hasten  on  to  other 
regions.  As  in  Cairo,  so  here  to  a  more  marked  degree,  the 
prevailing  foreign  element  in^  social  and  commercial  circles  is 
French.     In   fact,  throughout  almost  the  entire  coast  of  the 


292 


EGYPT. 


Mediterranean    Sea,   he    who    understands    and    speaks    the 
French   language  will  find  plenty  of  opportunities  to  use  it. 

Upon  a  rise  of  ground  in  the  edge  of  the  city  stands  the 
misnamed  Pompey's  Pillar.  The  shaft  of  this  monument  is 
one  stone  of  red  granite,  seventy-three  feet  long  and  over  ten 
feet  in  diameter.  It  stands  upon  a  pedestal  twenty-three  feet 
high,  and  wears  a  capital  that  weighs  several  tons.  How  it 
came  there  is  a  question  that  puzzles  modern  engineers. 
Alexandria  also  contained,  until  a  few  years  ago,  "  Cleopatra's 
Needles,"  twin  obelisks,  erected  by  Thothmes  III,  before  the 
time  of  Moses,  in  front  of  the  temple  of  the  sun  at  Heliopolis, 
and  removed  to  Alexandria  by  the  Roman  emperor,  Augustus. 
One  of  them  now  stands  upon  the  Thames  embankment  in 
London ;  the  other  is  in  Central  Park,  New  York. 


Cheops. 


ALEXANDRIA  TO  JERUSALEM. 


pROM  Egypt  our  journey  takes  us  to  that  land  toward 
1^  which  every  Christian  heart  turns  with  interest, —  the 
land  of  Palestine.  Among  the  most  ancient  travels  of 
which  the  Sacred  Record  gives  account,  a  trip  from 
Egypt  thither  is  recorded.  Egypt  and  Palestine  have  heen 
closely  associated  during  the  whole  course  of  time.  In  olden 
times  the  journey  wa.s  made  by  the  slow  stages  of  caravan 
traA^el,  hut  now  it  is  made  by  steamer  in  a  single  night. 

Our  boat  from  Alexandria  was  the  "  Selene "  of  the 
Austrian  Lloyd  line,  a  staunch  little  craft  of  about  eight 
hundred  tons.  The  captain  w^as  an  Italian  wdio  spoke  only  a 
few  words  of  Eno-Ush ;  but  even  in  this  scant  knowlediie  of 
the  language  he  excelled  both  his  officers  and  crew,  for  they 
could  not  speak  a  w^ord  of  English.  While  musing  upon  my 
loneliness,  I  inadvertently  spoke  to  a  gentleman  standing  near, 
who  replied  with  an  exclamation  of  joy  that  there  w^as  one  on 
board  with  wdiom  he  could  converse.  He  was  a  civil  engineer 
on  his  way  to  Palestine  to  aid  in  -the  construction  of  a  railway. 

The  sea  was  delightfully  smooth  ;  and  as  night  came  on, 
there  was  scarcely  a  ripple  on  the  face  of  the  water.  The 
phosphorescence  glowed  more  brightly  than  I  had  ever  seen  it 
in  any  other  water,  and  stretched  away  into  a  broad  path  of 
light  for  more  than  half  a  mile  in  our  wake.  At  the  bow  and 
along  the  sides  of  our  vessel  it  rolled  in  great  fiery  billows. 
So  quietly  did  the  steamer  ride  that  as  we  looked  up  through 
the  rigging  at  the  stars,  not  a  tremor  could  be  discerned.    Such 

[293] 


.■P>>^".-«jC« 


'Jl 

a 


< 


A 
H 

z 


C5 


A  ROUGH  NIGHT.  295 

was  my  first  night  on  the  Mediterranean.  A  night  that  for 
rare  beauty  and  thrilling  thought  of  the  peace  and  majesty 
of  the  works  of  God  will  not  soon  be  forgotten. 

Early  in  the  morning  we  were  in  Port  Said  at  the  northern 
entrance  of  the  great  canal.  This  place  is  the  creature  of  the 
canal,  and  for  physical  and  moral  cleanliness  certainly  does  its 
parent  no  credit.  It  is  a  coaling  station  for  nearly  all  steamers, 
and  the  chief  characteristic  of  the  town  is  coal  dust.  Coal 
heavers  of  every  shade  and  nation  are  there  in  great  numbers. 
Sailors,  too,  from  various  ships  are  on  the  streets.  As  the 
town  gains  age,  it  will  doubtless  become  more  sober  and  steady 
in  its  ways.  During  our  brief  stay  we  met  several  men  of 
ability  and  earnestness,  and  there  are  devoted  Christian  work- 
ers doing  what  they  can  to  withstand  the  tide  of  evil.  Our 
vessel  remained  here  through  the  day  exchanging  cargo.  By 
the  time  we  were  ready  to  leave,  the  wind  had  risen  from  the 
northwest,  and  as  we  emerged  from  behind  the  breakwater, 
we  received  at  once  the  full  force  of  the  waves.  The  night 
being  of  itself  not  at  all  comfortable  was  rendered  all  the  more 
dismal  because  the  fierce  wind  diminished  our  chances  of  land- 
ing  at  Jaffa.  The  wind  continued  to  rise,  and  by  morning  those 
chances  were  so  small  that  there  was  nothing  left  of  them. 

Upon  coming  on  deck  after  a  night  of  rough  tossing,  the 
coast  of  Canaan  was  in  sight,  and  soon  we  saw  our  desired 
haven.  We  approached  to  within  a  mile  or  so  of  Jaffa,  but  the 
waves  were  too  high  to  admit  of  a  thought  of  disembarking; 
so  the  captain  put  his  shij)'s  head  into  the  face  of  the  storm, 
and  we  very  reluctantly  saw  the  town  fade  from  view.  There 
is  no  natural  harbor  at  Jaffa  nor  has  anything  been  done  to 
provide  one.  Just  off  the  shore  there  is  a  ledge  of  rocks, 
which  in  low  tide,  stand  a  little  out  of  water,  thus  adding  to 
the  difficulty,  and  making  it  impracticable  to  land  when  the 
wind   blows  from  the   west  or  northwest.       Some    risks   are 


o 


A  EUROCLYDON.  297 

taken,  however,  and  the  wrecks  of  two  or  three  steamers  lying 
on  the  beach  showed  the  foolishness  of  the  undertaking.  A 
few  days  before  we  were  there,  a  boat-load  of  forty  passengers 
and  boatmen  was  dashed  on  the  rocks,  and  over  one  half  of 
the  number  drowned.  Under  the  circumstances  we  were 
quite  willing  to  forego  the  attempt,  though  the  disappointment 
was  not  small.  After  battling  with  the  wind  all  day,  at  night- 
fall we  tried  the  harbor  of  Haifa,  at  Mount  Carmel,  but  this, 
too,  was  open  to  the  weather ;  and  it  was  with  no  very  com- 
fortable feelings  that  we  saw  the  ship  once  more  turned  toward 
the  wind  and  waves  for  a  terrible  night  of  pitching  and  plung- 
ing. As  we  clung  to  our  berths,  the  experiences  of  Jonah  and 
Paul  came  vividly  before  the  mind,  for  we  knew  as  never  be- 
fore what  a  Euroclydon  is. 

Happily  by  next  morning  the  wind  abated,  and  we  made 
the  harbor  of  Beyrout,  finding  safe  and  quiet  anchorage..  We 
went  ashore  satisfied  for  once  that  we  had  had  our  money's 
worth  of  ride,  for  we  were  at  least  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
past  our  desired  haven.  Beyrout  is  the  principal  seaport  of 
Syria,  a  city  of  one  hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  and  one  of 
the  cleanest  cities  of  the  Orient.  There  is  a  mixture  of  na- 
tionalities in  the  inhabitants,  Turks  and  Arabs  being  predomi- 
nant. The  situation  is  picturesque,  near  the  foothills  of  the 
Lebanon  Mountains,  which  at  this  time  of  the  year  (Decem- 
ber), were  covered  with  snow.  The  city  is  surrounded  by 
orchards,  principally  of  figs,  and  by  vineyards.  It  is  the  cen- 
ter of  active  missionar}^  work,  the  American  college  and  hos- 
pital with  a  medical  school  being  located  here,  and  publishing 
work  is  also  carried  on  extensively  in  the  Arabic  language. 

Beyrout  is  the  outlet  of  Damascus  ;  and  as  there  is  a  good 
road,  built  by  a  French  company,  between  these  cities,  much 
heavy  traffic  by  w^agon,  camel,  and  donkey  is  carried  on.  The 
mail  is  carried  twice  a  day  by  diligence,  or  stage.     A  railway 


< 


CO 

a 

C>1 


JAFFA.  299 

is  in  process  of  construction,  and  will  soon  supersede  to  some 
extent  the.  methods  now  employed ;  though  judging  by  what 
is  seen  in  other  places,  it  is  doubtful  whether  the  camel-driver 
will  yield  the  field  to  the  iron  horse  without  a  trial  of  merits, 
in  which  the  camel  is  likely  to  gain  the  victory  for  cheapness 
of  transportation. 

To  our  joy  a  Russian  steamer  came  along  loaded  with 
pilgrims  for  Jerusalem  about  the  time  that  we  had  taken  a 
good  look  at  Beyrout.  However,  clouds  in  the  west  nearly 
kept  us  from  the  attempt,  as  it, was  not  desirable  to  be  taken 
past  Jaffa  again;  but  the  captain  predicted  a  favorable  landing, 
and  such  it  proved  to  be.  On  our  trip  we  had  fine  views  of 
Mount  Carmel,  on  Avhich  Elijah  offered  the  test  sacrifice,  and 
from  which  the  servant  of  the  prophet  overlooked  the  sea 
and  perceived  the  cloud  the  size  of  a  man's  hand.  The  coast 
and  city  of  Caesarea  Philippi,  to  which  Peter  was  called  by 
Cornelius,  and  where  Paul  was  taken  before  Felix  and  Festus, 
were  also  in  plain  sight. 

As  arrangements  for  the  trip  through  Palestine  had 
been  made  in  advance,  everything  was  in  readiness.  After 
landing  at  a  rickety  wharf  and  passing  the  Turkish  customs, 
we  waded  through  the  filth  of  what  at  first  seemed  to  be  a 
back  alley,  but  upon  further  acquaintance  proved  to  be  one  of 
the  principal  streets  of  this  ancient  city.  It  was  nearly  half  a 
mile  to  the  place  where  the  carriages  were  left,  because  the 
narrow,  crooked  streets  would  not  admit  of  their  being  brought 
nearer  to  the  landing  place.  The  hotel  was  a  homely  place, 
with  rooms  which  bore  the  names  of  the  twelve  tribes  of 
Israel.  No  sooner  had  we  reached  the  hostelry,  than  my 
dragoman  was  introduced  to  me,  and  I  was  informed  that  after 
dinner  we  would  take  the  train  for  Jerusalem.  But  as  we 
had  an  hour  or  two  before  that  time,  we  started  ofi'  to  visit  the 
house   of  Simon  the  Tanner   (Acts   10  :  G),  and  a  few   other 


'J    :-' 


'■V  ^ 


y  -J! 


-^- 


Vf  >-- 


v''-.^. 


Jz^'*--/:v  '-^ 


[300  J 


David's  Towek,  Jerusalem.     (See  page  96.) 


JAFFA.  301 

points  of  interest.  Some  features  served  to  identify  the 
house ;  there  were  stone  steps  to  the  housetop.  A  very 
ancient  well  was  in  the  court,  near  which  were  several  tan- 
ners' stones  made  smooth  as  glass  for  dressing  leather.  It 
overlooked  the  sea,  but  after  all  it  did  not  seem  very  real. 

That  Avhich  was  most  deserving  of  attention  at  Jaffa  was 
the  forest  of  orange  and  lemon  trees  which  surrounds  the  city, 
and  which  at  this  time  Avere  loaded  with  luscious  fruit.  Such 
orange  groves  I  have  not  seen  in  any  other  country. 

Near  the  center  of  the  city  is  an  open  space  used  as  a 
market,  in  which  the  various  products  of  the  country  are 
exposed  for  sale  in  lots  to  suit  customers.  Fruits,  grains, 
vegetables,  meats,  wood,  and  sundry  utensils,  are  mixed  in  a 
conglomerated  confusion,  and  each  little  lot  is  watched  over 
by  its  owner,  whose  face  beams  with  joy  at  the  slightest  pros- 
pect of  a  customer.  It  is  remarkable  with  what  patience  the 
keepers  of  those  little  stalls  in  all  oriental  bazaars  will  wait  for 
the  unusual  occurrence  of  some  one  coming  along  to  trade 
with  them. 

Upon  Jaffii,  as  upon  all  the  country,  there  is  spread  the 
stifling  incubus  of  Turkish  imbecility  and  inactivity.  The 
flight  of  centuries  has  seen  no  improvement  in  methods  of 
work  or  in  the  condition  of  the  people.  Camels  and  donkeys, 
dogs  and  dirt,  are  the  inseparable  accompaniments  of  native 
life  and  business,  and  the  wretched  government  will  make  no 
changes  for  the  better  nor  suffer  any  one  else  to  do  so. 

About  two  o'clock  we  were  off  to  Jerusalem  by  rail.  The 
little  narrow-gauge  railway  had  been  in  operation  about  a 
month  at  this  time,  and  to  go  there  in  safety  was  the  excep- 
tion rather  than  the  rule.  The  road  was  rough  and  the  car- 
riages uncomfortable.  Here  I  was  brought  for  the  first  time 
into  practical  acquaintance  with  Turkish  officers,  as  I  occupied 
the  same  apartment  with  several  of  them.     Civility  was  evi- 


[302] 


Citadel  Mosque,  Cairo. 


JERUSALEM  RAILWAY.  303 

dently  something  of  which  they  had  not  the  slightest  compre- 
hension. Their  vile  tobacco-smoke  was  very  offensive,  and 
the  idea  that  they  were  discommoding  some  one  was  equally 
gratifying  to  them.  The  barrier  of  strange  speech  prevented 
my  understanding  the  jokes  which  they  were  having  at  the 
stranger's  expense,  and  perhaps  prevented  their  hearing  one 
or  two  at  their  expense.  This  circumstance  is  only  mentioned 
because  it  represents  the  whole  fabric  of  the  Turkish  govern- 
ment, which  is  in  the  eyes  of  all  the  enlightened  world  a 
travesty  on  good  government,  justice,  righteousness,  or  any 
quality  which  commands  the  respect  of  mankind. 

Emerging  from  Jaffa,  we  are  soon  crossing  the  plain  of 
Sharon  which  lies  between  the  sea  and  the  hill  country,  and  is 
at  this  point  perhaps  twenty  miles  in  width,  though  the  rail- 
way makes  more  than  that  distance  in  crossing  it.  There  are 
several  small  stations,  the  principal  of  which  are  Lydda  and 
Ramleh.  This  portion  of  the  country  is  still  under  cultivation, 
and  every  available  rod  of  the  land  is  occupied.  Some  of 
these  farmers  are  Arabs,  and  some  are  German  colonists,  quite 
a  large  number  of  whom  are  located  in  this  and  other  sections  of 
the  land.  Among  the  Arabs  the  primitive  methods  and  tools, 
such  as  are  seen  in  old  Bible  pictures,  are  still  in  use.  Their 
teams  are  often  ludicrous  misfits,  being  perhaps  a  donkey  and 
a  camel,  or  a  cow  and  a  camel,  or  any  other  combination  which 
the  means  at  hand  will  allow.  The  ground  is  divided  into 
small  parcels,  often  consisting  of  a  fraction  of  an  acre,  and  each 
man's  land  is  separated  from  his  neighbor's  by  an  imaginary 
line  marked  by  small  heaps  of  stones.  This  custom,  too,  has 
come  down  from  ancient  days,  for  in  Moses'  time  the  Lord  pro- 
nounced a  curse  upon  the  man  who  should  remove  his  neigh- 
bor's landmark. 

When  at  last  the  hill  region  is  reached,  we  begin  to  ascend 
through  a  narrow  valley,  often  between  lofty  heights;  and 


304  ALEXANDRIA    TO  JERUSALEM. 

much  of  the  way  the  road  passes  through  interesting  scenery, 
rendered  all  the  more  so  at  this  time  by  the  well-known  unsafe 
condition  of  the  rails  upon  which  we  were  running.  This  hill 
country,  which  composes  the  Avhole  of  Palestine  except  three 
or  four  small  plains,  is  as  barren  as  one  can  well  imagine  any- 
thing to  be  that  is  not  an  out-and-out  desert.  The  hijls  are  not 
rugged  but  regular,  with  round  tops  and  gradually  sloping 
sides,  steep  in  some  places,  it  is  true,  but  still  bearing  the 
marks  of  cultivation.  Many  of  the  stone  terraces  which  sup- 
ported the  earth  where  grew  the  vines,  trees,  and  grains  in 
ages  gone  by,  are  still  there,  and  bear  witness  to  a  fruitful- 
ness  and  glory  that  is  altogether  departed.  These  terraces 
extending  to  the  summit  of  the  hills,  show  that  in  the  days  of 
its  prosperity  the  land  was  indeed  beautiful  and  goodly,  bring- 
ing forth  abundantly  for  the  great  population  which  it  sus- 
tained. 

Our  train  reached  the  station  at  Jerusalem  at  about  five  in 
the  evening.  We  were  still  outside  the  walls,  and  one  half  a 
mile  from  the  gate  on  the  west  side  of  the  valley.  A  comfort- 
able carriage  conveyed  the  passengers  to  hotels,  of  which  there 
are  several  that  offer  a  very  good  degree  of  comfort.  Of  these 
but  one  is  inside  the  city  walls.  Jerusalem  as  it  now  is,  is  a 
very  good  place  to  dwell  outside  of.  We  read  of  the  New 
Jerusalem  that  "  without  are  dogs,  liars,"  etc.,  but  in  this  case 
they  are  inside,  as  well  as  out.  There  being  more  room  out- 
side, it  is  the  more  desirable  side  of  city  life  in  Jerusalem. 

From  the  upper  verandas  of  the  hotel  at  the  northwest 
corner  of  the  city,  our  first  view  of  the  city  and  its  surround- 
ings was  obtained.  The  sun  was  just  above  the  western 
horizon.  In  every  direction  a  charming  panorama  was  spread 
out.  Involuntarily  came  the.  words  of  inspiration  :  "  Beautiful 
for  situation,  the  joy  of  the  whole  earth,  is  Mount  Zion,  on  the 
sides  of  the  north,  the  city  of  the  great  King."     The  desolate 


o 


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3 


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73 


►a 
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Q 

to 

o 


CO 
o 


20 


306 


ALEXANDRIA    TO   JERUSALEM. 


state  of  the  country  being  veiled  by  twilight,  it  was  compara- 
tively easy  to  imagine  the  hills  and  valleys  covered  and  lilled 
with  busy  throngs  of  happy  and  contented  people.  The  filth 
and  degradation  of  the  city  were  readily  forgotten  for  the 
moment,  as  a  picture  of  peace  and  glory  rose  before  the  mind, 
and  it  was  not  difficult  to  perceive  why  the  Lord  had  chosen 
such  a  place,  so  highly  blessed,  as  the  temporary  abode  of  his 
people  and  the  symbol  of  that  future  home  which  he  has  prom- 
ised to  them  that  love  him. 

A  short  walk  throus^h  the  Jaffa  o:ate  w\as  all  we  had  time 
for  that  night,  for  darkness  soon  settled  down,  and  the  city 
wastes  no  money  on  artificial  illumination. 

We  shall  not  stop  at  this  time  to  take  a  closer  view  of  the 
city,  for  there  is  a  pleasant  party  of  three  American  gentlemen 
ready  to  start  early  in  the  morning  for  the  Jordan  Valley  and 
the  Dead  Sea,  and  for  the  privilege  of  their  company  we  con- 
clude to  start  with  them. 


House  of  Simon,  Jaffa. 


ROUND  ABOUT  JERUSALEM. 


E  composed  three  separate  outfits,  each  one  accom- 
S  panied  by  a  dragoman,  two  soldiers,  a  mule  and 
muleteer,  a  donkey  and  dbnkei/teer.  Travelers,  drag- 
omen,  and  one  half  of  the  soldiers  were  provided 
with  horses,  while  the  rest  of  the  soldiers  went  on  foot.  The 
mules  and  the  donkeys  carried  food,  baggage,  etc.  Since  the 
days  of  early  boyhood,  horseback-riding  had  been  laid  aside  as 
one  of  the  things  I  could  not  do,  and  would  not  do  if  I  could. 
But  now  there  was  no  other  alternative  except  a  mule  palan- 
quin or  staying  at  home,  neither  of  which  was  to  be  enter- 
tained. 

Our  route  lay  along  the  northern  walls  of  the  city  around 
to  the  eastern  side  and  then  across  the  Kedron  Valley  past 
Gethsemane,  and  around  the  south  side  of  the  Mount  of  Olives 
to  Bethany,  and  from  there  down  into  the  defile  that  leads  to 
Jericho.  At  the  very  mention  of  these  names  by  our  guides, 
our  hearts  burned  within  us  as  we  thought  of  their  sacred 
associations.  It  all  seemed  so  dreamlike  to  be  traversing  the 
ground  and  viewing  the  scenes  so  celebrated  in  sacred  story. 
As  we  did  not  pause  to  inspect  them  then,  we  shall  not  now, 
but  pass  on  with  the  company.  At  the  foot  of  the  deep 
descent,  having  reached  the  bottom  of  the  valley  perhaps  two 
miles  beyond  Bethany,  we  came  to  a  fountain  called  the 
Apostle's  Fountain.  A  stream  of  living  water  flows  from  a 
crevice  of  a  rock  in  the  hillside,  and  goats,  camels,  and  pil- 
grims hovered  around  it  for  a  chance  to  quench  their  thirst. 

[307] 


.■:■ -ri"-? 


a 


**.   \ 


*:. 


'•■-,      %* 


■  <--• 


JERUSALEM   TO   JERICHO.  309 

It  was  a  comfort  to  drink  of  this  water,  for  it  was  on  a  road 
over  which  our  SaA'iuur  had  passed  mure  than  unee,  and  without 
doubt  he,  too,  had  stopped  at  that  place  for  the  same  purpose. 

The  road  to  Jericho  descends  nearly  four  thousand  feet 
from  Jerusalem,  but  it  is  not  all  down  grade.  About  noon,  as 
we  were  ascending  a  hill,  in  a  gorge  to  the  left  was  pointed 
out  the  place  where  the  man  fell  among  thieves  and  was  left 
in  a  dying  condition,  as  alluded  to  by  our  Saviour  in  his  para- 
ble of  the  good  Samaritan.  A  little  farther  along  was  a  Jihan 
called  the  Good  Samaritan  Inn.  It  consists  of  a  small  square 
surrounded  bv  a  stone  wall  ten  or  twelve  feet  hi"h,  havinii;  an 
entrance  next  to  the  road.  Across  one  side  of  the  enclosure 
is  a  roof  covering  a  row  of  sheds,  or  deep  stalls,  in  which  peo- 
ple may  eat  their  food,  or  make  up  their  beds  fa-  the  night, 
while  the  animals  are  tied  around  the  walls  of  the  enclosure. 
There  are,  also  mangers  in  the  stalls  where  beasts  may  be  fed. 
We  stopped  here  fo^  dinner.  It  was  in  such  a  i:)lace  that 
Christ  was  born. 

Pursuing  our  journey,  we  approached  the  precipitous  edge 
of  the  Jordan  Valley  alonu'  the  chasm  thromrh  which  flowed 
the  brook  Cherith  where  Elijah  was  hidden.  This  gorge  is 
very  deep,  and  our  road  often  brought  us  so  near  the  edge 
that  from  our  horses  we  could  look  down  into  the  dark  depths 
far  below.  All  this  country  through  which  we  passed  is  now 
a  desolate  wilderness  without  a  tree  and  with  scarcely  verdure 
enough  to  support  any  animal  life,  though  a  few  goats  and 
camels  do  eke  out  a  living  there.  For  more  than  half  of  the 
way  from  Jerusalem  to  Jericdio  there  is  a  good  carriage  road, 
built,  as  we  were  told,  b}'  the  government ;  but  suddenly  the 
energies  of  the  Turks  were  exhausted,  and  for  the  most  of 
the  remainder  of  the  way  there  is  nothing  more  than  a  well- 
worn  trail,  though  in  places  some  work  has  been  expended  on 
the  road. 


310  ROUND   ABOUT  JERUSALEM. 

After  making  the  nipid  descent  into  the  valley,  we  left  the 
trail,  turned  to  the  left,  and  crossed  the  brook,  which  is  a 
lim}tid  little  stream,  and  rode  two  miles  northward.  This 
took  us  across  what  is  well  reputed  to  be  the  site  of  ancient 
Jericho,  the  city  which  Avas  destroyed  in  the  days  of  Joshua. 
There  is  but  little  to  indicate  that  a  city  has  stood  there 
except  a  smooth  plain  of  rubbish  and  debris  which  resembles 
brick  and  stone  turned  to  dust  together.  Beyond  this  inter- 
esting spot  we  came  to  another  clear  stream  of  water  larger  in 
volume  than  Cherith,  and  this  we  followed  a  short  distance 
to  its  source  where  it  gushed  in  a  copious  fountain  from  the 
foot  of  a  high  hill.  This  is  called  Elisha's  Fountain,  and  is 
identified  with  the  sacred  story  in  2  Kings  2  :  19-22.  The 
men  of  the  city  came  to  Elisha  saying  that  the  situation  of  the 
city  was  pleasant,  but  the  water  was  naught  and  the  ground 
barren.  He  called  for  a  cruse  of  salt  which  he  cast  into  the 
water,  and  it  was  "  healed  unto  this  day."  That  these  last 
words  were  true,  w^e  proved,  for  at  the  close  of  a  rough  day's 
ride  taken  with  great  discomfort,  it  was  a  refreshing  relief  to 
dismount,  and  in  the  good,  old-fashioned  way  stoop  down  and 
drink  from  the  pure  stream. 

A  mill  was  in  process  of  construction  a  few  rods  below  for 
which  the  spring  is  to  furnish  the  power.  This  fountain  is 
less  than  ten  miles  from  the  Dead  Sea,  and  doubtless  partook 
of  the  bitter  character  of  its  w^aters  until  the  power  of  God 
sweetened  it.  Two  miles  to  the  southeast  brought  us  to  the 
more  modern  Jericho  of  our  Saviour's  time,  the  ancient  Gilgal, 
where  was  located  the  camp  of  Israel  and  which  for  some  time 
was  the  abode  of  th^  tabernacle. 

Two  or  three  houses  and  some  Arab  huts  are  all  that  com- 
prise this  village.  One  of  the  former  is  a  comfortable  inn 
kept  for  tourists.  Here  we  remained  two  nights  visiting  the 
Dead  Sea  and  the  Jordan  in  the  day  between. 


o 

o 

» 

n 
c 


312  ROUND  ABOUT  JERUJSALEM. 

Starting  out  early  in  the  morning,  the  placid  waters  of  the 
Dead  Sea  were  in  plain  sight,  and  owing  to  the  clearness  of 
the  atmosphere,  it  seemed  but  a  short  distance  to  its  shores ; 
but  it  proved  to  be  very  much  farther  than  we  thought.  All 
the  way  this  alluring  deception  was  kept  up  even  to  the  last 
quarter  of  a  mile. 

It  is  a  fact  quite  generally  known  that  the  surface  of  this 
salt  lake  is  one  thousand  and  three  hundred  feet  lower  than 
that  of  the  Mediterranean  Sea.  Ascending  from  Jaffa  to 
Jerusalem,  w^e  rise  two  thousand  six  hundred  feet,  and  going 
on  to  the  Dead  Sea  we  descend  three  thousand  nine  hundred. 
This  small  basin,  forty-five  miles  in  length  and  nine  in  width, 
receives  the  waters  of  the  Jordan  and  a  few  other  small  tribu- 
taries ;  and  though  it  has  no  outlet,  there  is  no  increase  in 
the  volume.  The  theory  is  that  evaporation  keeps  pace  with 
inflow.  Toward  the  north  end  there  are  high  and  precipitous 
banks  on  the  east  and  west.  Between  its  waters  and  those 
that  are  poured  into  it  there  is  a  very  wide  difference  in  every 
respect.  Those  of  the  Jordan  are  far  from  clear,  while  the 
sea  is  singularly  pellucid.  When  the  turbid  stream  strikes 
the  sea,  its  waters  are  carried  at  once  to  the  bottom,  where 
all  their  silt  is  deposited.  But  while  these  were  previously 
sweet,  upon  their  introduction  to  the  sea  they  become  acrid  to 
a  degree  that  is  almost  venomous.  Having  a  desire  to  test 
their  quality,  I  essayed  to  taste  them  cautiously.  None  passed 
the  mouth,  and  but  little  got  that  far.  A  sensation  was  left, 
however,  that  pervaded  my  being  with  a  shudder.  While  ocean 
water  is  thirty  parts  in  one  thousand  salt,  the  Dead  Sea  water 
contains  two  hundred  and  fifty  parts  salt  or  eight  times  as 
much.  Mingled  with  this  is  a  strong  impregnation  of  salt- 
peter and  of  asphaltum,  which  is  very  abundant,  and  also  sev- 
eral other  pungent  and  disagreeable  qualities.  On  the  banks 
of  this  sea  grow  the  famous  apples  of  Sodom,  beautiful  on  the 


AN  EXAMPLE.  313 

outside  but  bitter  to  the  tase,  and  when  mature,  filled  with 
a  dry  fiber  and  dust  which  have  generally  been  called 
ashes. 

By  the  Arabs  the  sea  is  called  the  Ba/ir  Loot  or  sea  of  Lot. 
It  is  popularly  supposed  that  its  waters  cover  the  site  of  Sodom 
and  Gomorrah.  But  of  this  there  can  be  no  knowledge.  We 
know  that  these  cities  lay  in  the  valley  of  the  Jordan,  and 
when  Lot  and  Abraham  were  at  Bethel,  where  they  separated, 
it  is  said  that  Lot  chose  the  plain  of  Jordan;  that  he  jour- 
neyed east ;  and  that  he  "pitched  liis  tent  toward  Sodom." 
From  this  it  is  by  some  inferred  that  these  cities  were  farther 
north  than  the  Dead  Sea. 

But  it  is  evident  that  God  did  not  design  that  their  site 
should  be  known,  since  their  fate  w^as  emblematical  of  the  final 
destruction  of  the  ungodly.  The  apostle  Jude  says  :  "  Even 
as  Sodom  and  Gomorrha,  and  the  cities  round  about  them  in 
like  manner,  giving  themselves  over  to  fornication,  and  going- 
after  strange  flesh,  are  set  forth  for  an  example,  suffering  the 
vengeance  of  eternal  fire."  Jude  7.  Of  what  they  are  an 
example  another  sacred  writer  tells  us:  '•Turning  the  cities 
of  Sodom  and  Gomorrha  into  ashes  condemned  them  with  an 
overthrow,  making  them  an  ensample  unto  those  that  after 
should  live  ungodly."  2  Peter  2  :  6.  Thus  we  learn  what  is 
meant  by  eternal  fire.  It  is  a  fire  that  is  eternal  in  its  conse- 
quences. Those  cities  w^ere  utterly  exterminated  so  that  even 
their  place  is  forgotten.  They  only  live  in  history  as  a 
reminder  of  what  will  be  the  fate  of  those  who  reject  the  gos- 
pel of  Christ,  and  choose  to  live  ungodl}^  lives.  Of  their 
destruction  we  read,  "  The  Lord  rained  upon  Sodom  and  Go- 
morrah brimstone  and  fire  from  the  Lord  out  of  heaven." 
Gen.  19  :  24.  And  of  the  final  punishment  of  the  wicked  it  is 
said,  "  And  fire  came  down  from  God  out  of  heaven  and  de- 
voured them."     Rev.  20  :  9 


a 
< 

a 
a 


DEAD    SEA.  315 

Theil3  is  in  the  dreadful  fate  of  those  wicked  cities  an 
awful  warning  to  the  impenitent  sinner.  Not  of  an  eternity 
spent  in  conscious  suffering,  but  the  utter  extinction  of  being, 
in  the  destrojnng  elements.  In  harmony  witli  this  is  the 
scripture :  "  For,  behold,  the  day  cometh  that  shall  burn  as 
an  oven  ;  and  all  the  proud,  yea,  and  all  that  do  wickedly, 
shall  be  stubble ;  and  the  day  that  cometh  shall  burn  them  up, 
saith  the  Lord  of  hosts,  that  it  shall  leave  them  neither  root 
nor  branch."     Mai.  4:1. 

The  northern  end  of  the  lake  is  easily  accessible,  and  a 
beautiful  pebbly  beach  stretches  far  in  each  direction.  It  is 
usual  for  travelers  to  bathe  in  the  clear  M'aters,  the  specific 
gravity  of  which  is  so  great  that  they  easily  support  the  body 
of  the  bather. 

Turning  from  this  interesting  place,  we  rode  about  six 
miles  to  the  northward  and  a  little  east,  till  we  came  to  the 
banks  of  the  Jordan  at  the  place  called  the  Ford,  where  it  is 
reputed  that  the  baptism  of  Christ  took  place.  The  appear- 
ance of  this  noted  stream,  celebrated  in  sacred  story  and  song, 
was  such  as  to  cause  no  small  degree  of  disappointment.  In- 
stead of  a  clear  stream  flowing  rapidly  over  smooth  stones, 
there  was  a  deep,  murky  river  whose  banks  were  a  mire  of 
clay,  into  which  one  could  not  venture  except  at  the  risk  of 
getting  into  the  mud  to  his  knees.  A  growth  of  underbrush 
lines  the  banks,  but  there  was  nothino-  in  siaht  that  deserved 
the  name  of  timber,  nor  any  signs  that  there  ever  had  been 
any.  If  it  was  such  a  stream  as  this  in  the  days  of  Naaman,  it 
is  not  to  be  wondered  at  from  a  human  point  of  view  that 
he  chose  his  own  clear  Abana  and  Pharpar  rather  than  the 
turbid  Jordan.  But  it  is  in  every  w\iy  likely  that  the  river 
like  the  country  at  large  has  suffered  from  the  curse  and  con- 
tamination of  sin.  The  soft  banks  of  yellow  sand  and  clay  are 
continually  yielding  to  the  inroads  of  the  river's  wash.     Such, 


316  ROUND   ABOUT  JERUSALEM. 

at  least,  was  its  appearance  at  that  point  at  the  time  of  onr 
visit.  And  there  was  no  evidence  that  it  would  have  been 
more  favorable  at  another  time.  We  sat  here  to  eat  our  lunch^ 
while  some  of  our  company  risked  a  reputation  for  cleanliness 
by  bathing  in  the  thick  water,  though  how  to  get  the  mud  off 
their  feet  after  leaving  the  water,  was  a  serious  question. 

Another  ride  of  eight  miles  brought  us  back  to  our  hotel  in 
good  season.  The  valley  at  this  place  is  about  fifteen  miles  in 
width,  with  the  river  somewhat  east  of  the  middle.  The  soil 
seems  to  be  an  alluvial  of  sandy  clay,  unproductive  and  barren 
except  for  a  growth  of  low  brush  upon  which  large  herds  of 
camels  feed.  Riding  being  a  painful  exercise,  I  was  forcibly 
reminded  of  a  ditty  we  sang  when  boys,  to  the  effect  that 
"Jordan  am  a  hard  road  to  trabbel."  On  our  way  I  fell  con- 
siderably behind  the  rest  of  the  party,  when  I  soon  found  my- 
self in  the  edge  of  a  drove  of  more  than  one  hundred  camels. 
Like  most  of  the  other  natives,  they  seemed  to  take  a  deep 
interest  in  the  stranger,  and  proceeded  to  view  me  at  close 
range,  but  whether  their  interest  was  in  me  or  in  my  horse  I 
could  not  tell.  Whichever  it  was,  it  led  to  no  demonstrations 
of  ill-will,  and  we  were  allowed  to  pass  out  of  their  admiring 
circle  in  peace.  Some  beautiful  specimens  of  oranges  were 
growing  in  a  garden  at  Jericho,  one  of  which,  the  finest  I 
have  ever  seen,  I  carried  several  days  before  I  found  time  and 
courage  to  attempt  its  disintegration. 

An  early  start  in  the  morning  on  our  way  to  Jerusalem 
brought  us  out  of  the  valley  while  yet  the  stars  were  shining. 
We  reached  Bethany  a  little  after  noon,  and  paused  for  refresh- 
ments in  an  olive  grove  near  the  edge  of  the  ancient  village. 
This  road  is  the  one  over  which  Jesus  passed  on  his  way  from 
Jericho  when  he  went  to  raise  Lazarus.  As  it  emerges  from  the 
deep  valley,  a  curve  around  the  point  of  the  hill  brings  the  vil- 
lage into  view.     It  was  doubtless  very  near  where  we  stojjped 


BETHANY.  317 

for  rest,  that  Martha  met  the  Saviour  with  the  words,  "  Lord, 
if  thou  hadst  been  here,  my  brother  had  not  died."  It  was 
Avithin  sight  of  our  position  that  the  scene  at  the  sepulcher 
took  pkxce.  Taking  out  my  Testament,  I  read  John  11  with 
an  interest  I  never  before  felt.  Blessed  promise  !  "  I  am  the 
resurrection  and  the  life ;  he  that  believeth  in  me,  though  he 
.were  dead,  yet  shall  he  live."  The  resurrection  is  the  gate  of 
the  endless  life.  lie  who  came  to  save  mankind  conquered 
death  and  carried  to  heaven  the  keys  of  death  and  the  grave. 
Nor  is  life  promised  through  any  other  means  except  through 
a  resurrection  from  the  dead.  How  many  precious  ones  are 
sleeping  on  the  hill-sides  and  in  the  valleys  of  Judea  !  Soon 
they  will  come  forth  at  the  call  of  Him  who  hath  said,  "  I  will 
come  again." 

Bethany  probably  retains  its  primitive  character  as  well  as 
any  other  town  in  that  country.  Looking  at  it,  any  one  would 
imagine  that  no  changes  had  been  wrought  in  it  for  two  thou- 
sand years.  Its  houses  are  stone  hovels  of  a  not  very  inviting 
appearance  to  those  accustomed  to  modern  dwellings.  Its 
streets  are  mere  lanes.  The  place  of  Lazarus's  burial  is  pointed 
out  as  a  deep  and  almost  inaccessible  hole  in  the  ground  or 
rock,  but  like  many  of  the  definite  localities  now  pointed  out, 
it  gives  no  satisfaction  to  any  but  the  most  credulous.  Send- 
ing our  horses  by  the  road,  we  took  the  shorter  path  to  the 
city,  which  passes  over  the  top  of  the  mount.  Here,  too,  we 
could  realize  that  we  were  closely  following  the  literal  foot- 
steps of  Jesus.  Though  many  changes  have  taken  place  in 
superficial  appearances,  still  the  main  outline  of  the  country 
remains  the  same. 

The  elongated  height  east  of  Jerusalem  is  divided  by  a 
slight  depression  into  Mount  Scopas  to  the  north  and  the 
Mount  of  Olives  to  the  south.  The  latter  is  also  divided,  for 
the    southern   extremity   is  sometimes  called    the    Mount   of 


[318] 


Absalom's  Pillar. 


CITY  SURROUNDINGS.  319 

Offense  because  Solomon  there  built  altars  to  please  his  idola- 
trous wives.  On  the  western  side  of  Olivet  are  the  tombs  of 
the  prophets.  And  in  the  valley  of  Johoshaphat  are  pointed 
out  the  tombs  of  James,  of  Zechariah,  and  the  pillar  of  Absa- 
lom. The  latter  still  stands  quite  well  preserved,  and  accord- 
ing to  the  Jewish  traditions  is  the  one  spoken  of  in  2  Sam. 
18  :  18.  It  is  frequently  though  incorrectly  referred  to  as 
Absalom's  tomb.  It  shows  marks  of  great  age.  The  base 
of  the  pillar  is  perhaps  ten  feet  square  and  hollow.  An  aper- 
ture about  a  foot  in  diameter  has  been  broken  through  one 
side.  Into  this,  devoted  Jews  in  passing  cast  a  stone,  ex- 
claiming, '"  Cursed  be  every  son  that  disobeyeth  his  father." 
From  time  to  time  these  stones  are  thrown  out. 

But  it  is  time  to  look  at  the  city  and  its  immediate  sur- 
roundings. The  city  proper  is  enclosed  with  a  stone  wall  in 
a  good  state  of  preservation.  This  wall  is  perhaps  thirty  feet 
in  height,  and  was  built  by  Suleiman  "  The  Magnificent,"  a 
Turkish  pasha,  in  1542.  It  is  pierced  by  seven  gates  :  The 
Jaffa  gate  on  the  west,  which  is  the  principal  one  ;  the  New 
gate,  Damascus  gate,  and  Herod's  gate  on  the  north ;  St. 
Stephen's  on  the  east;  the  Dung  gate,  and  Zion's  gate  on  the 
south ;  the  latter  being  at  the  southwest  corner  of  the  walls. 
The  walls  are  two  and  a  half  miles  in  length.  In  form  the 
city  is  an  irregular  square  originally  built  on  four  hills,  two  of 
w^hich,  Zion  and  Moriah,  are  prominent  in  Biblical  history. 
The  former  is  in  the  southwest  and  the  other  in  the  southeast 
portion  of  the  city,  with  the  Tyropean  Valley  running  between 
them.  But  this  celebrated  valley  has  been  mostly  filled  with 
the  debris  of  successive  destructions  and  rebuildings. 

The  city  is  naturally  divided  into  four  quarters,  of  which 
the  northwest  is  called  the  Christian  quarter ;  the  northeast, 
the  Mussulman,  or  Mohammedan  quarter ;  the  southwest,  the 
Armenian,  while  the  T3^ropean  valley  is  occupied  by  the  Jews. 


320  ROUND  ABOUT  JERUSALEM. 

Mount  Moriah  is  covered  by  the  Ilarani,  or  temple  area,  which 
is  still  enclosed  by  a  wall  stijjarating  it  from  the  rest  of  the 
city,  and  forming  on  the  sonth  and  east  the  city  wall. 

The  Dung  gate  on  the  south  is  in  the  Tyropean  valley,  and 
receives  its  name  from  the  fact  that  through  it  the  refuse  of 
the  city  was  formerly  taken  into  the  valley  of  Hinnom  below, 
where  it  was  destroyed  by  fires  that  were  kept  perpetually 
burning.  It  is  from  this  circumstance  that  we  have  the  name 
Gehenna,  \\\\\q\\  in  the  New  Testament  is  called  "  hell,"  and 
which  affords  an  illustration  of  the  punishment  of  the  wicked 
in  unquenchable  fire,  since  those  fires  continued  to  burn  as 
long  as  there  was  anything  for  them  to  prey  upon.  But  they 
effectually  destroyed  that  upon  which  they  preyed. 

Zion's  gate  is  celebrated  in  the  Bible  and  in  sacred  song. 
Just  outside  of  it  is  a  pile  of  buildings  called  David's  tomb, 
held  in  high  veneration  by  both  JNIohammedans  and  Jews. 
Although  in  possession  of  the  Mussulmans,  the  Jews  are 
allowed  to  visit  the  place  and  pray  one  day  in  each  month. 
In  the  massive  j^ortal  of  this  edifice  is  a  small  gate  large 
enou(>:h  to  admit  a  man,  called  the  Needle's  Eve,  and  referred 
to  as  the  one  which  our  Saviour  had  in  mind  when  he  spoke 
of  the  impossibility  of  a  camel's  going  through  the  eye  of  a 
needle.  But  this  is  a  senseless  claim  since  the  gate  is  a  com- 
paratively modern  one,  and  that  was  not  his  meaning.  It  is 
insisted  that  it  would  be  an  impossibility  for  a  camel  to  go 
through  the  eye  of  a  needle.  Very  true.  It  would  also  be 
impossible  for  a  camel  to  go  through  this  little  door-way,  and 
equally  so  for  covetousness  to  enter  heaven. 

In  this  building  is  pointed  out  the  room  where  Christ  ate 
the  last  passover  with  his  disciples  ;  but  this,  too,  is  an  evi- 
dent fraud.  We  saw  the  apartment  in  which  the  women  con- 
gregate to  worship.  Across  the  entrance  was  hung  a  heavy 
chain.     To  an  inquiry  as   to  its   purpose,  the  guide  gravely 


a 


o 
a 
o 
> 


HBTWE*    rfa«Hu«-«re&  -^^  *  *"* 


31 


822  ROUND  ABOUT  JERUSALEM. 


OJ-j 


re})lie(l  lliat  it  was  to  teach  them  humility,  as  they  must  stoop 
very  h)w  upon  entering.  I  saw  no  chain  across  the  men's 
entrance.  ^ 

The  Jaffa  gate  is  the  principal  point  of  entrance  and  exit 
of  the  city.  To  this  place  several  omnibuses  from  the  suburbs 
run,  and  there  is  always  congregated  around  it  a  crowd  of  car- 
riages, donkeys,  camels,  horses,  men,  and  women.  Farther 
than  this  carriages  do  not  go,  for  no  carriage  or  wagon  can 
enter  Jerusalem.  The  streets  are  too  narrow  to  admit  of  their 
passage,  and  too  rough  if  they  were  wide  enough.  Donkeys 
and  camels  are  ridden  through  the  streets,  which  are  many  of 
them  crowded  with  people  sitting  or  walking. 

Just  outside  the  Damascus  aate  on  the  north,  is  a  little 
mound  called  the  Place  of  a  Skull.  It  is  perhaps  thirty  feet 
in  height,  of  a  circular  form,  and  has  no  buildings,  but  is  coa^- 
ered  with  Mohammedan  graves.  It  is  believed  by  many  that 
this  is  the  real  site  of  the  crucifixion,  and  to  a  disinterested 
party  it  seems  much  more  probable  than  does  the  site  chosen 
by  the  churches,  of  which  we  shall  speak  later. 

The  New  gate,  near  the  northwest  corner,  is  so  called  be- 
cause it  had  been  opened  for  modern  convenience.  Just 
inside  are  the  extensive  buildings  of  the  Roman  Catholic 
Church,  and  just  without  are  others  of  the   Greek  Church. 

St.  Stephen's  gate,  on  the  east,  is  the  one  through  which 
we  pass  on  going  from  the  city  to  the  Mount  of  Olives  ;  the 
place  between  the  east  walls,  and  the  bottom  of  the  Kidron 
Valley  is  covered  with  Mohammedan  graves.  Passing  down 
the  road  across  the  dry  bed  of  the  brook,  one  se6s  numerous 
leprous  beggars  sitting  by  the  wayside  begging.  As  they 
hear  footsteps  approaching, —  for  many  of  them  are  1)lind, — 
they  set  up  a  most  pitiful  wail  of  distress.  "  Cowajie,  cowa- 
jie,  backsheesh  "  was  the  cry  that  became  familiar  to  my  ears, 
though  it  is  likely  that  this  is  not  a  correct  rendering.     They 


LEPERS.  323 

hold  up  their  huiidless  stumps,  or  point  out  their  hideous 
deformities  and  appeal  in  the  name  of  God  for  "backsheesh," 
that  is,  a  present.  And  if  their  importunities  appear  not  to 
be  heeded,  they  mingle  tears  with  their  wailing  cries.  The 
sight  of  their  wretchedness  is  touching,  and  though  I  passed 
them  many  times,  I  took  pains  to  have  something  with  me 
with  which  to  stop  their  cries. 

Such  cries  often  greeted  our  Saviour's  ears,  and  with  what 
pitying  compassion  he  imparted  the  healing  gift !  Leprosy 
is  a  striking  emblem  of  sin.  They  are  diseases  which  no 
human  power  can  reach,  and  both  inevitably  end  in  a  terrible 
death.  Jesus  Christ  to-day  is  ready  to  hear  the  leper's  call. 
With  ready  response  he  answers,  "  I  will ;  be  thou  clean." 

A  mile  or  so  to  the  north  of  the  city  are  the  "  ash  hills." 
They  are  mounds  of  ashes  from  the  temple  altars.  These  are 
now  being  carted  away  to  be  used  for  mortar  in  building.  But 
to  my  mind  they  were  one  of  the  most  satisfying  relics  that 
are  to  be  found.  Of  their  authenticity  there  can  be  no  reason- 
able doubt,  and  they  bear  a  testimony  to  the  reliability  of  the 
accounts  of  the  temple  service  which  cannot  be  gainsaid. 
And  having  established  that  part  of  the  sacred  writings,  they 
confirm  all  that  pertains  to  those  services  which  form  the  cen- 
tral figure  of  the  past  dispensation.  It  was  no  small  satisfac- 
tion to  delve  in  those  ashes  for  bits  of  charred  bones,  which 
were  easily  found ;  and  a  piece  of  a  snuffer,  almost  reduced  to 
rust,  rewarded  our  search.  These  trophies  are  indeed  ancient, 
having  been  deposited  there  for  a  period  of  at  least  two  thou- 
sand years.  Still  farther  north  are  found  the  tombs  of  the 
kings,  an  interesting  place  to  visit,  showing  clearly  the  mode 
of  ancient  sepulture. 


[324] 


Street  in  Jerusalem. 


JERUSALEM  AND  BETHLEHEM. 


NTERING  the  city  at  the  Jaffa  gate,  we  see  at  our 
right  a  strong  stone  tower  now  occupied  by  Turkish 
soLiiers,  called  the  tower  of  David.  Nothing  is  origi- 
nal about  it  unless  it  be  simi:)ly  the  foundation  stones. 
Here  the  street  of  David  starts  and  runs  through  to  the  temple 
area.  This  is  the  main  street  of  the  city  About  half  way 
across  the  city  and  to  the  left  is  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sep- 
ulcher.  The  building  presents  nothing  on  the  exterior  to 
indicate  the  magnificence  of  its  interior.  But  it  sacredly 
guards  what  to  the  superstitious  minds  of  its  devotees  are  the 
most  holy  localities  on  earth.  This  church  has  been  so  often 
described  that  much  time  will  not  be  spent  upon  it  here. 

The  building  covers  a  large  space  of  ground,  and  includes 
not  only  the  reputed  sepulcher,  but  also  the  place  of  crucifix- 
ion, of  scourging,  and  several  other  scenes  of  Christ's  sufferings. 
Different  portions  of  the  church  belong  to  three  or  four  sects, 
the  two  Catholic  churches  having  by  far  the  most  advanta- 
geous points. 

The  Greek  Church  possesses  many  points  of  advantage 
over  other  churches  in  and  about  Jerusalem,  and  behind  her  it 
is  easy  to  discern  the  power  and  influence  of  the  Russian  gov- 
ernment. They  hold  the  sepulcher,  which  is  a  marble  mauso- 
leum built  under  the  main  dome  of  the  church.  To  reach  it 
one  passes  through  a  low  door  into  a  small  compartment  called 
the  "Angel's  Chapel,"  where  we  are  told  that  Mary  met  our 
Saviour  after  he  had  risen.    Passing  through  a  still  lower  door, 

[325] 


326  JERUSALEM  AND   BETHLEHEM. 

we  enter  the  principal  room  of  the  sepulcher,  a  little  cell  with 
a  marble  box  across  one  side,  which  is  pointed,  out  as  the 
burial-place  of  Christ.  A  priest  sits  hy  with  a  bowl  of  holy 
water  with  which  he  sprinkles  those  who  enter  and  will  accept 
his  services. 

There  was  at  this  time  a  constant  stream  of  pilgrims 
thronging  this  spot,  some  of  whom  had  come  many  hundred 
miles  to  visit  the  place.  With  hysterical  grief  or  joy,  they 
would  clasp  their  arms  about  the  marble  slabs  and  confess 
their  sins.  Leaving,  they  felt  that  they  had  done  the  one 
great  deed  of  their  lives. 

Standing  there  for  a  few  moments  and  watching  them,  I 
could  hardly  repress  the  words  of  the  angels, —  "  Why  seek 
ye  the  living  among  the  dead?  He  is  not  here  ;  but  is  risen." 
At  the  various  shrines  were  weeping  worshipers,  who  not 
only  left  their  tears,  but  also  liberal  gifts  of  money,  for  the 
reception  of  which  a  bank  is  maintained  within  the  church. 
On  a  ledge  of  rocks  in  another  part  of  the  church  are  shown 
three  holes,  two  of  which  are  covered  with  brass  plates,  and 
the  other  with  a  silver  plate.  The  latter  marks  the  spot 
where  stood  the  cross  of  Christ,  and  the  others  locate  the 
crosses  of  the  thieves.  In  another  apartment  is  the  tomb  of 
Melchizedec,  and  on  the  wall  is  a  rude  painting  of  the  skull  of 
Adam.  In  this  way  w^e  might  enumerate  enough  similar  ex- 
hibitions of  folly  and  superstition  together  with  idolatrous 
rites  and  ceremonies  to  fill  quite  a  volume. 

When  one  has  seen  this  collection  of  knavish  impositions 
carried  on  in  the  name  of  reliuion  as  veneration  for  Christ,  he 
does  not  so  much  wonder  at  the  skepticism  of  reasonable  men 
who  have  been  brought  in  contact  with  only  these  phases  of 
a  mock  Christianity.  There  is  no  place  in  heathendom  where 
idolatry  is  more  flagrantly  carried  on  and  religious  humbug 
more  boldly  practised  than  at  the  spot  where  the  Author  of 


UNPLEASANT   CARICATURES.  327 

Christianity  is  supposed  to  have  laid  the  foundation  of  our 
faith.  The  head  becomes  sick  and  the  whole  heart  faint  in 
view  of  such  deeds,  and  the  puerile  stories  witli  which  Jerusa- 
lem abounds. 

From  the  church  eastward  to  St.  Stephen's  gate  runs  the 
Via  Dolorosa,  or  Way  of  Sorrow,  over  which  it  is  reputed  that 
Jesus  passed  on  his  way  to  the  crucifixion  from  Pilate's  pal- 
ace, which  is  said  to  \va\q  stood  very  near  this  gate.  The 
same  impositions  are  displayed  here.  At  frequent  intervals, 
occur  places  marked  as  sacred  by  some  circumstance  of  that 
sad  march.  Three  times  Christ  is  said  to  have  fallen  under 
the  cross,  and  each  place  is  marked  by  deep  indentations  in 
the  stone  paA^ements,  though  it  is  well  known  that  the  original 
pavement  is  many  feet  beneath  the  present  one.  At  another 
place  a  deep  mark  in  the  wall  shows  where  he  fell  and  struck 
his  elbow.  But  this  is  sufficient.  It  is  not  pleasant  to  dwell 
on  these  caricatures  of  that  most  precious  life,  those  deepest 
sufferings,  and  the  hollow  mockery  of  the  most  elevating  relig- 
ion the  world  has  ever  seen. 

Access  to  the  temple  enclosure  can  be  obtained  only  by 
permission  of  the  authorities  and  under  guard  of  a  Turkish 
soldier.  The  platform  is  approached  through  a  lofty  arcade 
by  stone  steps  which  still  bear  marks  of  past  grandeur.  The 
enclosure  consists  of  several  acres,  in  the  midst  of  which 
stands  the  most  noble  building  in  Palestine,  the  Mosque  of 
Omar,  built  over  the  "  dome  of  the  rock,"  which  is  supposed 
on  srood  arounds  to  be  the  threshinor  floor  of  Araunah,  and  the 
place  where  Abraham  Avas  told  to  offer  Isaac.  It  is  an  octag- 
onal building  surmounted  by  a  majestic  dome,  which  on  the 
inside  is  lined  with  mosaics.  No  stranger  is  allowed  to  ap- 
proach the  carefully  guarded  mosque,  except  when  escorted 
as  before  mentioned.  As  partial  supports  to  the  dome  there 
are  twelve  pillars  of  variegated  marble,  each  different  from  the 


r>r%-ri 


s 


o 


CO 


MOSQUE   OF   OMAR.  329 

others.  These  are  said  to  have  belonged  to  the  temple  of 
Solomon.  The  rock  in  the  center  is  surrounded  bv  a  stone 
fence  and  bears  the  deep  impress  of  a  huge  foot-print  which 
we  were  told  was  that  left  by  Mohammed  when  he  ascended 
from  earth  to  heaven.  A  staircase  leads  down  into  a  cavern 
excavated  in  the  rock  which  is  said  to  have  been  the  granary 
of  Araunah,  and  concerning  which  the  Mussulmans  have  nu- 
merous superstitions,  legends,  and  beliefs.  Indeed  these  tra- 
ditions are  characteristic  of  the  whole  place. 

One  thing  to  which  our  attention  was  called  in  this  cellar 
was  of  peculiar  interest.  Upon  stamping  on  the  floor  a  hollow, 
ringing  sound  was  produced  as  if  we  were  standing  over  an 
empty  cistern.  But  there  is  no  apparent  opening  to  this  inner 
cavern.  The  Jews  have  a  tradition  that  the  prophet  Jeremiah 
deposited  the  ark  of  the  testament  in  this  place.  It  is  said  to 
have  mysteriously  disappeared  at  the  time  of  the  Babylonish 
destruction  of  the  temple,  and  the  Jews  insist  that  it  was  not 
destroyed  but  secreted  by  Jeremiah.  It  would  be  a  matter  of 
great  interest  to  have  the  place  investigated,  and  I  was  told 
that  Captain  Wilson,  the  celebrated  English  explorer,  procured 
a  decree  from  the  sultan,  authorizing  him  to  open  the  place, 
but  when  it  w^as  presented  at  the  mosque,  the  local  authorities 
would  not  allow  the  search  to  go  forward. 

At  the  southern  end  of  the  enclosure  is  an  old  Crusader's 
church,  which  has  been  converted  into  a  mosque  called  the 
Mosque  of  El  Aksa.  It  is  a  vast,  gloomy  structure,  through 
the  archways  of  which  the  monotonous  tones  of  priests  at 
prayer  may  often  be  heard.  The  southeast  portion  of  the 
temple  platform  was  built  up  from  the  valley  of  Jehoshaphat, 
and  instead  of  filling  it  up  with  soil,  the  pavement  is  sup- 
ported by  arches  and  pillars.  Of  the  latter  there  are  said  to 
be  one  thousand.  This  place  was  discovered  and  excavated 
by  Captain  Wilson  about  1875.     It  formed  the  stables  where 


330  JERUSALEM  AND   BETHELEM. 

King  Solomon  kept  his  horses  and  some  of  his  stores.  The  place 
is  about  two  acres  in  extent,  and  bears  every  mark  of  great 
age.  There  are  in  its  walls  some  of  the  huge  stones  placed 
there  in  the  time  of  Solomon,  and  remains  of  the  mangers  and 
the  holes  in  which  the  halters  were  tied  may  also  be  seen. 

On  the  southwest  corner  of  the  temple  enclosure,  and  out- 
side the  walls  but  inside  the  city  walls,  is  the  wailing  place  of 
the  Jews.  At  this  point  the  wall  is  perhaps  thirty  feet  in 
heidit,  and  some  of  the  lower  rows  of  stones  are  said  to  be  of 
the  original  building.  If  so,  they  were  probably  the  top  rows, 
for  the  wall  extends  seventy  feet  and  more  below  the  present 
surface  of  the  street.  Some  of  the  abject  houses  in  which 
the  Jews  live  in  this  wretched  region  are  thirty  or  forty  feet 
below  the  street,  showing  to  some  extent  how  the  city  has 
been  filled  up  with  ruins. 

At  the  wailing  pbice  the  Jews  assemble,  especially  on  Fri- 
day afternoon,  to  lament  their  condition  and  the  desolation  of 
their  city  and  temple.  The  place  devoted  to  weeping  is  about 
fifty  yards  in  length.  The  people  range  themselves  along  the 
wall,  leaning  their  heads  against  the  cold  stones,  or  standing 
and  reading  some  portion  of  Scripture,  or  praying,  and  thus 
pour  out  their  lamentations.  The  seventy-fourth  psalm  is  one 
that  is  much  read,  and  it  will  be  seen  that  it  most  vividly  sets 
forth  their  pitiful  situation.  The  women,  especially,  work 
their  feelings  up  to  a  liigh  pitch,  and  become  hysterical  in  their 
grief.  Their  weeping  is  no  pretense,  but  genuine  tears  flow 
down,  and  with  wringing  of  hands  they  cry  as  if  their  hearts 
were  broken.  The  scene  touched  my  heart,  and  I  longed  for 
the  power  and  privilege  of  pointing  these  darkened  souls  to 
that  true  Light  thjit  shineth  for  all  the  world.  The  Lord  they 
seek  is  nigh  to  them,  and  stands  with  pitying  love  ready  to 
have  compassion  upon  his  ancient  people  when  their  hearts 
shall  turn  to  him.     2  Cor.  3  :  15,  16. 


INHABITANTS.  331 

The  streets  through  which  approach  is  made  to  this  spot 
are  among  the  most  filthy  in  the  city,  which  is  saying  much. 
They  have  no  supply  of  water  except  such  as  is  taken  from 
the  roofs  or  caught  in  pools  in  the  scanty  rains.  Consequently, 
as  for  sewage  or  sanitary  systems,  the  city  seems  to  have 
none  at  all,  not  even  of  the  primitive  kind  enjoined  by  the  law 
of  Moses. 

The  population  of  Jerusalem  is  variously  stated.  It  is  said 
to  be  sixty  thousand,  by  those  who  live  there,  though  the 
latest  reliable  statistics  give  it  scarcely  more  than  forty  thou- 
sand. Of  this  number,  which  is  doubtless  sufficiently  large, 
there  are,  it  is  said,  twenty-five  thousand  Jews.  This  num- 
ber includes  not  only  the  people  who  live  inside  the  walls,  but 
in  the  newly  built  suburbs  as  well.  The  German  colony  lies 
to  the  west  of  the  city,  the  English  to  the  northwest,  and  the 
Russian  principally  to  the  north.  In  this  direction  are  also 
the  refugee  Russian  Jews  who  were  driven  to  this  country  by 
the  persecution  of  the  Russian  government. 

For  a  time  there  was  a  large  influx  of  Jews  to  their 
native  land  ;  but  there  was  such  a  cry  raised  against  their 
return  bv  the  Turkish  inhabitants,  that  the  sultan  forbade 
their  settling  in  the  land  or  obtaining  any  real  estate  therein. 
Under  pressure  from  other  powers,  these  measures  have  been 
modified  somewhat.  One  thing  is  very  noticeable,  and  that  is 
the  prevailing  impression  that  according  to  the  prophecies  of 
the  Scriptures,  the  Jews  are  to  return  to  Palestine,  their  polity 
is  to  be  restored,  and  they  are  to  become  once  more  the  fa- 
vored people  of  God.  The  Jews  are  not  at  all  reluctant  to 
accept  such  an  interpretation  of  the  Scriptures  as  this,  and 
they  seem  to  have  become  thoroughly  impressed  with  the  idea, 
so  far  as  they  have  been  brought  at  all  under  the  influence  of 
these  teachings.  Those  Christians  who  accept  this  theory 
connect  with  it  the  reiun  of  Christ  in  his  kin&cloin  during  the 


GATHERING    OF   THE  JEWS.  333 

millennial  period,  with  headquarters  at  Jerusalem.  This,  of 
course,  the  Jews  are  not  so  willing  to  receive. 

But  the  whole  theory  rests  upon  a  foundation  that  has  lit- 
tle or  no  ground  in  the  Bible.  It  is  true  that  in  the  Old  Tes- 
tament many  special  promises  were  made  to  Judah  and  to 
Israel.  Their  dispersion  was  foretold,  and  their  final  gather- 
ing together.  But  their  continued  and  repeated  rejection  of 
God,  their  rejection  and  crucifixion  of  the  Son  of  God,  and  the 
disdain  with  which  they  refused  the  gospel,  filled  to  overflow- 
ing the  cup  of  judgment,  and  they  were  cut  off  from  their 
special  privileges  as  the  people  of  God.  The  Lord  himself 
declared  that  he  was  no  respecter  of  persons.  The  Jews  were 
broken  off  like  the  branches  of  the  olive  tree,  and  the  Gentiles 
graffed  into  their  place.  There  is  but  one  way  of  salvation, 
both  for  Jew  and  Gentile,  and  that  is  through  faith  in  Christ. 
The  Lord  still  proposes  to  gather  his  people,  but  not  in  old 
Judea.  There  is  a  city  whose  builder  and  maker  is  God,  the 
New  Jerusalem,  the  "  many  mansions  "  which  our  Saviour  has 
gone  to  prepare.  That  will  be  Christ's  capital,  and  the  final 
gathering  of  God's  people  \vill  be  in  that  city  rather  than  in  the 
sterile  and  worn-out  regions  of  Jerusalem,  the  child  of  bondage. 

If  the  Jews  become  the  people  of  God,  it  will  be  in  the 
same  way  that  others  do,  by  individual  faith  in  Christ  and 
repentance  for  sin.  All  who  come  in  this  way  will  be  re- 
ceived ;  none  others  will.  Their  returning  to  Palestine  will 
not  constitute  them  heirs  of  God's  kingdom,  for  the  Lord  has 
not  so  changed  his  nature  as  to  lose  his  abhorrence  of  sin,  nor 
have  the  Jews  changed  so  that  by  nature  they  are  any  more 
the  j)eople  of  God  than  others  without  the  renewing  and  con- 
verting influence  of  the  grace  of  Christ.  If  they  abide  not  in 
unbelief,  God  is  able  to  graff  them  in  again. 

But  from  a  worldly  standpoint  there  is  no  present  prospect 
of  a  return  of  the  Jews  as  a  body  to  the  land  of  Palestine. 


334  JERUSALEM  AXD  BETHLEHEM. 

There  are,  it  is  estimated,  over  fifteen  million  Jews,  and  of 
these  less  than  fifty  thousand,  or  less  than  one  in  three  hun- 
dred are  there ;  nor  is  there  any  perceptible  desire  on  their 
part  to  go  there  as  long  as  they  can  live  in  peace  in  any  other 
country.  One  leading  Jew  said  in  reference  to  the  matter, 
that  if  the  restoration  of  the  Jews  to  Palestine  should  ever 
come  to  pass,  he  should  petition  to  be  sent  as  minister  to 
Paris.  There  is  nothing  in  Palestine  to  attract  people  except 
the  needy  condition  of  the  people  who  live  there  in  darkness 
and  degradation.  Missionary  efforts  are  being  put  forth  for 
them  and  not  without  some  success. 

It  would  not  be  correct  to  state  that  the  Jews  have  no 
aspirations  for  obtaining  possession  of  their  old  home,  it  is  nat- 
ural they  should  have,  though  they  may  well  take  into  account 
that  two  obstacles  stand  in  their  way,  which  from  a  human 
standpoint,  are  insurmountable.  In  the  first  place,  the  Turks 
have  possession,  and  they  are  exceedingly  jealous  of  their 
prestige  and  unfavorable  toward  the  Jew.  In  the  second 
place,  Russia  does  not  conceal  her  designs  upon  the  Holy 
Land,  and  the  claim  of  the  Jew  to  his  fatherland  will  not 
stand  a  moment  in  the  way  of  her  carrying  out  her  long- 
cherished  design.  Nor  is  Russia  more  kindly  disposed  to  the 
Jew  than  is  Turkey ;  both  regard  the  claim  of  the  Jews  to  the 
land  as  inimical  to  their  highest  interests. 

In  every  place  of  vantage  the  Greek  Church  is  intrenching 
itself  in  Palestine,  especially  so  about  Jerusalem.  And  in  its 
aa'OTessive  work  there  is  not  the  slightest  room  for  doubt  that 
it  is  backed  up  by  the  wealth  and  prowess  of  Russia. 

Six  miles  nearly  south  from  Jerusalem,  on  the  highway  to 
Hebron,  is  the  town  of  Bethlehem,  celebrated  as  the  birthplace 
of  our  Saviour.  I  availed  myself  of  the  opportunity  of  being 
there  on  Christmas  eve,  at  which  time  there  are  extraordinary 
ceremonies  and  the  place  is  full  of  pilgrims  and  sojourners. 


BETHLEHEM.  335 

By  the  wayside  about  two  miles  from  Jerusalem,  is  oue  of 
the  most  celebrated  monuments  of  the  land.  It  is  called 
Rachel's  tomb^  as  being  the  burial-place  of  the  favorite  wife  of 
Jacob.  From  the  account  of  her  death  in  Genesis  35,  we  learn 
that  it  occurred  when  ''  there  was  but  a  little  way  to  come  to 
Ephrath,"  and  that  Ephrath  was  Bethlehem.  They  were 
traveling  southward,  hence  it  must  have  been  very  near  this 
spot  that  her  death  occurred.  This  tomb  is  mentioned  in  the 
sacred  record  after  this,  and  it  .is  claimed  by  the  Jews  to  have 
been  sacredly  preserved.  Bethlehem,  like  the  other  cities  of 
this  country,  has  narrow  and  filthy  streets,  though  the  town  is 
quite  well  preserved.  The  Church  of  the  Nativity  is  in  the 
southern  portion  of  the  city,  which*  necessitated  our  driving 
through  the  place.  On  the  way  we  met  another  carriage,  but  as 
there  was  not  room  for  the  two  vehicles  to  pass,  there  followed 
a  lively  colloquy  between  drivers  and  dragomen,  which  ter- 
minated in  the  other  outfit  backing  up  to  a  corner,  and  then  by 
their  crouching  as  closely  in  the  angle  as  possible  and  nearly  up- 
setting our  conveyance,  we  managed  to  pass.  Through  the 
crowds  we  made  our  way  directly  to  the  church,  which  was  the 
center  of  interest.  The  building  is  an  unpretentious  one  on  the 
outside,  and  might  be  taken  for  a  huge  grain  warehouse.  It  is 
entered  through  a  door  so  low  as  to  require  one  to  stoop  con- 
siderably. We  first  found  ourselves  in  a  spacious  and  lofty 
room,  empty  except  for  the  rows  of  massive  columns  which 
support  the  roof.  This  was  the  church  built  by  the  Crusaders, 
and  in  it  Godfrey  Bouillon  was  chosen  king  of  Jerusalem, 
though  he  declared  he  would  not  "wear  a  crow^i  of  gold  in  the 
city  where  his  Lord  wore  one  of  thorns.  Off  from  this  room 
open  the  other  apartments  pertaining  to  different  sects,  for  this 
church,  like  that  of  the  Holy  Sepulcher,  is  held  in  joint  own- 
ership by  Latins,  Greeks,  Armenians,  and  Copts.  The  Latins, 
or  Roman  Catholics,  are  masters  of  ceremonies  on  this  occa- 


m 
m 

W 


CO 
CO 


TURKS  AS  PEACEMAKERS.  337 

sioii;  and  the  services  are  in  their  portion  of  the  church. 
While  each  body  owns  its  exclusive  share  of  the  building, 
they  have  a  common  interest  in  the  grotto  where  the  birth  of 
Jesus  is  reputed  to  have  taken  place,  and  each  sect  has 
hours  allotted  in  which  its  members  have  exclusive  privileges 
in  the  little  vault  which  is  held  so  sacred.  And  here  is  exhib- 
ited the  fanatical  folly  of  those  worshipers  in  a  scene  which 
puts  the  Christian  name  to  blush.  The  way  to  the  cavern 
which  is  said  to  be  the  birth-place  of  Christ  is  through  a  large 
corridor  and  down  winding  stone  stairs  into  a  grotto  hewn  in 
stone  and  festooned  with  richest  drapery,  which  glitters  with 
precious  metals  and  jewels.  Here  are  the  reputed  manger, 
the  place  where  the  wise  men  presented  their  offerings,  and 
other  points  of  equal  interest. 

But  stationed  here  are  a  number  of  Turkish  soldiers. 
What  are  they  here  for  ?  They  have  no  interest  in  the  worship. 
They  are  necessary  to  keep  these  devoted  (?)  people  from  mur- 
dering each  other.  But  their  presence  is  not  sufhcient  to  re- 
strain the  angry  passions,  for  blood  is  often  shed  in  their 
strife  over  the  possession  of  the  relics  of  a  baseless  supersti- 
tion. A  few  days  previous  to  my  visit  a  bloody  fracas  took 
place  in  which  the  inflammable  material  was  nearly  all  burned 
out  of  the  place  by  the  upsetting  of  tlie  lamps.  IIow  any  one 
can  for  a  moment  imagine  that  this  is  the  place  wdiere  the 
lowly  Jesus  was  born,  or  that  it  bears  any  resemblance  to  it 
passes  understanding. 

On  Christmas  eve,  or  rather  mornino-  for  the  ceremonies  do 
not  begin  until  midnight,  after  a  long  time  spent  in  prayer, 
the  new-born  babe,  which  is  a  wax  doll,  is  brought  forth  from 
the  manger  and  carried  in  solemn  procession  first  through 
the  church  and  then  out  through  the  town  amid  great  excite- 
ment and  enthusiasm.  The  one  who  personates  Mary  the 
mother  receives  the  adoration  of  the  deluded  crowd. 
23 


338  JERUSALEM  AND   BETHLEHEM. 

My  dragoman  was  born  a  Jew,  but  had  been  converted  to 
Christianity,  and  though  a  poor  man,  was  one  of  intelligence  and 
uprightness.  In  passing  through  the  town  he  frequently  re- 
marked, ''Cleanliness  is  next  to  godliness."  This  remark 
was  caused  by  the  omnipresent  filth.  As  we  rode  back  to 
Jerusalem,  he  was  enjoying  his  cigar  which  was  quite  a  con- 
stant companion  with  him.  Suddenly  he  broke  the  silence  by 
saying,  "  Will  you  tell  me  why  you  never  smoke  nor  use 
tobacco  ?  "  "  Yes  ;  "  I  replied,  "  it  is  because  '  cleanliness  is 
next  to  godliness.'  "  I  then  spoke  of  some  passages  of  Script- 
ure in  which  it  is  said  that  we  are  "  the  temple  of  the  Holy 
Ghost;  "  that  we  should  "glorify  God  in  our  body  and  spirit 
which  are  his  ;  "  that  "  if  any  man  defile  the  temple  of  God, 
him  will  God  destroy,"  etc.  Therefore,  as  a  Christian,  I  could 
not  indulge  in  a  practice  that  was  hurtful  to  health,  a  useless 
waste  of  money,  and  was  of  itself  nnclean.  There  the  matter 
dropped.  But  three  days  later,  he  told  me  he  had  not  smoked 
since  that  evening,  and  never  should  do  so  again,  a  promise 
which  I  learn  he  has  since  kept. 

The  return  journey  to  Jafta  was  made  by  carriage  from 
Jerusalem,  a  method  greatly  to  be  preferred  to  the  railway. 
Leaving  Jerusalem  in  good  season,  we  took  an  excellent  road, 
and  after  about  six  miles  passed  the  village  of  Emmaus,  which 
sits  upon  a  hillside.  Thus  f^ir  the  w\ay  is  descending ;  but 
here  we  cross  the  bottom  of  the  valley,  and  after  climbing  a 
sharp  hill  for  some  distance,  pass  a  tower  built  by  the  Crusa- 
ders from  which  they  obtained  their  view  of  Jerusalem,  the 
goal  of  their  march,  but  which  they  could  not  reach  in  that 
expedition.  Descending  into  another  valley,  we  are  in  Kir- 
jath-jearim,  celebrated  often  in  Bible  history,  and  said  to  be 
the  home  of  the  two  thieves  that  were  crucified  with  Christ. 
It  bears  evidence  of  having  been  a  place  celebrated  for  its 
beauty. 


ICHABOD. 


339 


At  noon  we  reached  the  edge  of  the  plain  of  Sharon,  and 
halted  for  dinner  at  a  rude  inn  j  but  as  we  had  our  own  pro- 
visions, all  that  was  required  was  table  room.  After  lunch  we 
crossed  what  is  called,  on  doubtful  authoritv,  tlie  valley  of 
Ajalon,  and  came  to  Ramleh  where  another  halt  was  made  to 
rest  the  horses.  Here  is  a  quaint  mosque.  After  this  place 
we  came  to  a  town  said  to  be  Timnath  of  the  Philistines. 
Having  had  a  good  night's  rest  in  Jaffa,  we  were  ready  for  the 
vessel  which  was  to  take  us  back  to  Port  Said. 

It  was  with  no  particular  regret  that  we  saw  the  shores 
fade  away  in  the  distance,  for  though  those  appointed  to  care 
for  travelers  had  done  their  duty  kindly,  still  those  whose  lives 
and  presence  hallowed  the  land  are  no  longer  there.  Lebanon 
and  Hernion  stand  like  two  headstones  at  a  orave  one  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  long,  where  glory  and  prosperity  lie  buried,  and 
"Ichabod"  is  written  over  the  tomb.  "The  Pleasant  Land" 
was  once  a  fitting  type  of  Paradise  restored,  but  the  likeness 
has  faded  out  under  the  blight  of  sin,  to  be  restored  onl}^  when 
Christ  comes  with  all  his  saints  to  make  the  beautiful  new 
earth  their  eternal  home 


ITALY. 


ETURNING  to  Alexandria,  it  was  found  that  the 
steamer  "  Cathay  "  was  to  sail  for  Naples  that  day  ; 
and  so  transferring  to  that  steamer,  w^e  were  soon 
headed  for  the  "toe  of  Italy."  Leavimr  Alexandria 
on  Friday,  we  expected  to  get  into  Ncaples  on  Monday,  but  in 
this  we  were  somewhat  disappointed.  The  Mediterranean  Sea 
is  noted  for  its  beauty  and  praised  for  its  calmness,  but  some 
people  who  traverse  it  will  remember  it  in  a  difterent  way.  It 
was  my  fortune  to  S4:)end  ten  nights  upon  its  waters,  and  six  of 
them  would  hardly  be  worth  living  over  again.  These  nights 
were  the  worst  I  have  ever  experienced  at  sea.  At  times 
thunder  and  lightning,  rain,  hail,  and  snow  were  combined  at 
once  with  a  fierce  northwest  wind,  to  render  the  night  hideous 
even  on  land,  but  much  more  so  on  the  seething  sea.  The 
depths  to  which  our  ship  would  plunge  at  times  would  seem  to 
preclude  for  the  moment  the  idea  of  her  coming  to  the  surface 
again.  We  had  four  nights  of  this  on  that  trip,  and  it  was 
suflicient  for  most  of  us ;  so  that  when  the  steamer  reached 
Naples,  every  passenger  left  her,  though  she  was  to  proceed 
to  Genoa,  and  several  had  tickets  for  that  port. 

We  obtained  our  first  sight  of  Europe  at  Cape  Spartivento, 
and  then  coasted  west  for  the  Strait  of  Messina.  Soon,  over 
the  port  bow,  we  caught  sight  of  Mt.  ^Etna,  piercing  the 
clouds  with  its  sharp  cone ;  and  between  the  clouds  we  could 
often  see  the  smoke  and  vapor  pouring  from  the  crater.  For 
a  few  moments  only,  the  clouds  would  roll  back  and  reveal  the 

[341] 


342  ITALY. 

monster  in  his  mio;ht.  The  base  of  the  mountain  is  liirdled 
with  green  timber ;  its  top  is  mantled  Avith  snow,  while  a  long- 
stream  of  smoke  and  steam  poured  from  the  summit. 

At  the  same  time  that  ^tna  was  in  view,  off  to  the  star- 
board between  us  ;ii)d  tlie  l;md  appeared  a  sight  of  which  we 
often  read,  but  which  few  obtain, — a  genuine  waterspout.  It  is 
a  western  cyclone  at  sea.  There  was  the  black,  greenish  cloud 
above,  the  funnel-shaped,  revolving  cloud  below  extending  to  the 
surface  of  the  sea.  It  was  moving  eastward  and  would  not  touch 
us,  but  there  was  a  small  sailing  vessel  directly  in  its  path. 
With  great  haste  they  changed  their  sails  and  turned  their 
course  to  escape,  if  possible,  the  threatened  destruction. 
From  our  ship  bombs  were  continually  fired  with  the  hope  of 
"  breaking  "  the  terrific  storm.  Great  volumes  of  water  were 
drawn  up  into  the  cloud,  which  fell  in  torrents  upon  the  sea 
and  neighboring  land.  It  was  an  impressive  sight  and  an 
anxious  time;  but  the  little  ship  made  good  use  of  her  sails, 
and  before  the  spout  reached  her,  it  was  broken,  whether 
because  it  had  spent  its  force  or  from  the  concussions  of  the 
bombs  could  not  be  told.  We  were  now  in  the  lee  of  land, 
and  really  enjoyed  the  pleasant  sail  through  the  narrow  strait 
which  separates  Sicily  from  the  mainland.  Villages  and 
towns  lined  the  picturesque  shores  on  either  side. 

After  leaving  the  strait,  the  Lipai"i  Islands  gave  us  shelter 
from  the  northwest  gale,  and  we  began  to  imagine  that  we 
should  have  one  calm  night.  We  soon  came  in  sight  of 
Stromboli,  one  of  the  islands,  which  is  a  noted  volcano.  It 
rises  from  the  sea  like  a  giant  haystack,  and  slopes  to  the 
water's  edge  all  round.  It  was  active,  but  a  cloud  of  vapor 
clung  to  its  brow,  so  that  we  did  not  obtain  a  good  view. 
There  is  a  village  clinging  to  its  base,  which  seems  to  be 
threatened  with  the  angry  sea  on  one  side,  and  a  fiery  monster 
on  the  other,  with  no  chance  to  escape  if  there  should  be  a 


ARRIVAL.  343 

violent  outbreak.  It  would  seem  that  such  a  situation  could 
have  but  little  attraction  as  a  dwelling-place,  but  there  are 
people  who  appear  to  enjoy  thus  jeopardizing  their  lives. 
Coming  out  from  the  lee  of  these  islands,  we  received  the  full 
charge  of  the  gale,  and  resigned  ourselves  to  what  proved  to 
be  the  worst  night  of  all. 

"Sunny  Italy"  did  not  maintain  the  fair  reputation  which 
she  enjoys  at  a  distance  for  soft  skies  and  balmy  air  on  that 
January  morning  when  we  entered  the  Bay  of  Naples  in  a 
fierce  snow-storm.  The  few  glimpses  we  obtained  of  the  pict- 
uresque bay  were  suthcient  to  confirm  our  ideas  of  its  natural 
beauty,  but  that  which  caused  the  greatest  pleasure  was  the 
calm  waters  of  the  well-protected  harbor.  Here  our  ship  at 
last  settled  down  to  rest,  and  it  was  wdth  peculiar  gratitude  to 
Providence  that  we  walked  the  decks  in  peace,  and  contem- 
plated going  ashore.  The  deep-seated  wish  that  we  might 
never  again  have  to  go  to  sea  is  still  well  remembered,  thouuh 
pleasanter  experiences  since  then  have  shaken  our  firm 
resolutions  never  to  do  so  except  for  the  purpose  of  getting 
home. 

As  soon  as  the  clouds  had  sufficiently  dispersed,  our  first 
care  was  to  obtain  a  view  of  Vesuvius,  about  nine  miles  dis- 
tant. It  was  lazily  pouring  forth  a  column  of  smoke,  and  at 
dark  put  on  a  nightcap  of  fire.  No  small  disappointment  was 
caused  by  our  inability  to  pay  a  visit  to  the  crater,  the  way 
being  blocked  up  by  snow,  during  the  time  allotted  for  our 
stay  at  NajDles. 

It  is  hardly  worth  the  traveler's  while  to  spend  much  time 
in  Naples.  The  National  Museum,  Mount  St.  Elmo,  the 
aquarium,  and  a  few  of  the  churches  are  all  that  will  at- 
tract his  attention.  The  former  is  most  interesting  and  in- 
structive for  its  stores  of  mementoes  in  the  classical  arts. 
Especially  are  Pompeii  and    Herculaneum   well   represented, 


-  >.} 


-««^  r : 


< 


H 


f/3 


NAPLES.  345 

but  a  visit  to  the  museum  of  their  relics  does  not  satisfy  one's 
curiosity  when  the  remains  of  the  towns  themselves  are  so 
close  at  hand. 

But  we  must  not  leave  this  celebrated  city  without  a  few 
glimpses  at  its  ordinary  sights.  The  first  thing  we  noticed 
was  the  quite  common  custom  of  ladies'  going  on  the  streets 
without  any  headgear,  and  this  in  spite  of  the  cold  weather. 
Fully  half  the  ladies  one  meets  on  the  streets  and  cars  have 
no  hats  or  bonnets.  It  must  be  confessed  that  it  is  largely  a 
matter  of  custom,  for  in  many  instances  hats  and  bonnets  are 
only  an  excuse  for  what  they  profess  to  be,  their  presence 
adding  nothing  to  the  comfort  of  the  wearer.  It  was  amusing 
to  see  the  milkmen  going  about  from  door  to  door  and  milking 
the  cow  in  sight  of  the  customer.  In  certain  parts  of  the 
city  macaroni  is  manuftictured  in  large  quantities.  It  is  made 
of  wheat  meal  with  the  bran  removed  ;  this  being  made  into  a 
paste  with  hot  water,  is  forced  through  molds  which  run  it  into 
small  pipes.  It  is  then  hung  up  to  dr}',  and  for  this  purpose 
large  areas  of  the  broad  streets  are  used.  For  some  distance 
the  sidewalks  will  be  almost  blocked,  and  every  vacant  space 
will  be  filled  with  this  most  popular  food  of  the  Italians.  All 
kinds  of  wheat  are  not  adapted  to  the  manufacture  of  maca- 
roni, that  which  is  rich  in  gluten  being  necessary.  Cheaper 
grain  than  wheat  is  mixed  in  some  of  the  inferior  grades  which 
are  sold  to  the  poor  classes,  with  whom  it  is  the  principal  arti- 
cle of  diet.  Macaroni  is  a  healthful  food.  The  Italian  cooks 
are  very  adept  in  its  preparation,  although  some  of  their 
concoctions  are  rendered  indigestible  by  cheese  and  con- 
diments. 

Herculaneum  is  about  four  miles  south  of  the  main  part  of 
Naples,  beneath  the  suburbs  of  Portici.  This  is  the  second 
town  that  has  been  built  on  the  site  of  the  buried  city. 
Entering  a  vestibule  off  the  street,  we  paid  a  small  fee.  and 


POMPEII.  347 

then  tlescended  eighty-five  feet  through  solid  L^va  rock  to  the 
stage  of  the  ohl  theater.  Nearer  the  seashore  the  lava  flow 
was  not  so  deep,  and  excavations  have  laid  open  the  ruins  of 
houses. 

But  the  ruins  of  Pompeii  far  exceed  those  of  Herculaneum 
in  interest.  These  are  ahout  twelve  miles  from  Najtles,  or 
eight  miles  beyond  Herculaneum.  As  the  latter  place  lay 
nearer  to  the  mountain  and  nearer  to  the  sea,  a  storm  of  lava 
seems  to  have  overwhelmed  it ;  but  Pompeii  was  more  remote 
from  the  mountain  on  a  plateau  at  some  distance  from  the  sea. 
Instead  of  being  covered  with  lava,  it  was  buried  in  ashes  and 
scoria,  which  the  wind  seems  to  have  blown  in  this  direction. 
This  matter  is  light  and  easily  removed,  since  the  covering  ex- 
tends but  a  few  feet  above  the  tops  of  the  walls  and  houses-. 

The  terrible  eruption  which  overthrew  these  cities  oc- 
curred in  A.  D.  79.  Pompeii  is  two  miles  in  circumference, 
and  was  built  of  low  houses,  very  few  of  which  were  more 
than  two  stories  in  height.  The  material  in  which  it  was 
buried  was  so  fine  that  it  penetrated  everywhere,  even  into 
the  smallest  crevices  and  the  deepest  cellars.  This  in  a  few 
hours  Mthfully  stereotyped  and  hermetically  sealed  Roman 
life  at  that  time.  The  details  of  their  social  life  and  customs 
are  thus  perfectly  revealed  in  object-lessons  which  we  know 
to  be  true  to  life.  The  streets  are  not  wide,  the  widest  being 
thirty  feet,  and  many  of  them  less  than  half  of  that.  The 
deep  ruts  cut  in  the  pavements  by  the  chariot  wheels  are  still 
there,  and  it  is  usual  to  see  the  stepping-stones  in  the  middle 
of  the  street,  to  which  one  can  easily  step  from  the  footpath, 
thus  crossing  a  street  at  two  steps.  Some  of  the  houses  and 
many  of  the  relics  are  mute  witnesses  of  the  deep  wickedness 
of  the  people.  There  is  a  museum  within  the  walls  which 
contains  many  remarkable  illustrations  of  their  lives,  and 
especially  of  the  terrible    manner  in  which    i\\ey    met    their 


a 

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o 


THE  AQUARIVM.  349 

death.  There  are  skeletons  of  people  and  dogs  perfectly  pre- 
served, showing  plainly  the  agony  of  the  death  with  Avhich 
they  w^ere  so  suddenly  overtaken. 

The  aquarium  in  Naples  is  of  such  interest  that  no  one 
should  miss  the  opportunity  to  see  it.  The  Mediterranean 
Sea,  which  is  rich  in  aquatic  and  marine  life,  is  well  repre- 
sented here.  We  are  wont  to  regard  life  at  the  bottom  of  the 
sea  as  of  a  dreary  nature,  and  certainly  it  would  have  but  little 
charm  for  us  in  our  present  make-up ;  but  we  must  by  no 
means  suppose  that  the  world  in  which  we  live  contains  all 
the  beauty.  It  will  be  the  greatest  surprise  to  those  who  have 
no  knowledge  of  those  things  to  see  with  their  own  eyes  the 
dwellers  of  those  mysterious  depths  clothed  in  the  most  gor- 
geous robes,  and  possessing  forms  of  a  delicacy  which  nothing 
in  this  upper  world  approaches.  Filled  with  admiration  and 
wonder,  I  looked  long  and  eagerly  at  this,  to  me,  new  display 
of  the  wisdom  and  goodness  of  God.  There  were  living  and 
movino;  creatures  of  considerable  size,  with  form  and  substance 
so  delicate  that  their  presence  in  the  clear  water  could  only  be 
detected  by  their  outlines  and  the  fact  that  they  were  in  mo- 
tion. There  were  many  which  exhibited  wonderful  wisdom  in 
their  arrangement,  and  both  plant  and  animal  life  exhibited 
the  most  exquisite  hues  and  shades  of  color. 


ROME. 


TIE  journey  to  Home  was  made  liy  rail  in  four  and  a 
lialf  hours,  in  a  comfortable  railway  carriage  built  on 
tlie  Enulish  plan.  This  city  was  reached  in  the  even- 
inu',  and  our  a  i<it  beiian  with  a  very  pleasant  niuht\s 
rest  at  the  Continental  Hotel  near  the  station.  This  is  in  the 
northern  and  new  portion  of  the  city,  called  the  Stranger's 
Quarter.  Here  the  buildings  are  modern,  the  streets  broad, 
and  many  of  the  edifices  are  imposing.  There  are  numerous 
gardens,  statuary,  and,  what  is  the  peculiar  glory  of  Rome, 
beautiful  fountains.  Street-cars,  well  reo:ulated,  run  to  difter- 
ent  parts  of  the  city,  and  in  eyery  way,  Rome  has  been  made, 
since  the  close  of  papal  rule,  worthy  of  its  j^lace  as  the  capital 
of  united  Italy.  But  Rome  is  not  particularly  yalued  for  her 
modern  improyements  and  her  cleanly  appearance,  though  they 
claim  attention.  It  is  as  the  city  of  some  of  the  most  famous 
monuments  of  ancient  and  medi^eyal  times,  of  pagan  and  papal 
history,  that  Rome  stands  unique  and  far  beyond  all  other 
cities  of  the  globe.  To  the  student  of  history  she  stands 
prominent  before  all  other  places  on  earth  as  the  scene  of 
many  of  the  most  important  episodes  of  the  world's  history. 

But  its  description  is  now  giyen  by  so  many  trayelers  that 
we  shall  not  attempt  an  extended  account  of  her  yast  treasures 
of  past  ages.  In  the  southeastern  j)art  of  the  city  is  situated 
a  small  yalley  between  the  Palatine,  Quirinal,  and  Capitoline 
Hills,  eyery  step  of  which  causes  the  heart  to  bound  witli  thrills 
of  sensation  that  border  on  yeneration.     This  tract  yaries  in 

[  350 1 


THE   COLOSSEUM.  351 

width,  but  is  perhaps  one  hundred  yards  wide  on  the  average, 
and  is  aljout  one  third  of  a  mile  in  length.  At  its  eastern  ex- 
tremity stands  the  Colosseum;  at  the  western,  the  Capitolino 
Hill;  on  its  southern  border  stands  the  Palatine  Hill;  and  on 
its  northern  border,  the  Qairin;'.!  Hill.  Through  the  center 
runs  the  Via  Sacra,  or  Sacred  Way.  This  way  slopes  upward 
IVom  the  Colosseum  to  the  middle  of  the  historic  tract,  where 
it  is  spanned  by  the  Arch  of  Titus,  and  then  descends  to  the 
valley  in  wliich  lie  the  Forum  and  its  rostrum  and  the  Basilica, 
or  Church  uf  Jiili.i. 

The  Colosseum  is  perhaps  the  most  notable  ruin  iu  Rome, 
at  least  its  appearance  makes  it  the  most  conspicuous.  It  was 
begun  by  the  Emperor  Vespasian,  and  finished  by  Titus  in 
A.  D.  80.  It  was  at  first  called  the  Amphitheater  of  Flavins, 
Init  received  its  present  name  later  from  the  colossal  statue  of 
Nero  which  stood  near,  the  ruins  of  the  pedestal  of  which  still 
remain.  The  Iniilding  is  an  ellipse  measuring  two  hundred 
and  five  bv  one  hundred  and  seventy  yards.  A  considerable 
portion  of  its  walls  still  remain.  Where  they  retain  their 
full  height  it  is  one  hundred  and  fifty-five  feet.  This  im- 
mense building  had  no  roof.  There  were  four  tiers  of  seats, 
the  lower  of  which  was  occupied  bv  the  nobility.  Remains 
of  the  balcony  which  was  occupied  by  the  emperor  may 
still  be  seen.  The  gradations  of  society  descended  as  the 
seats  ascended,  until  in  the  fourth  row  were  seated  the  ple- 
beians, or  conimuu  people.  These  looked  down  upon  the 
cruel  sj:)orts  iii  the  arena  from  a  height  of  nearly  or  quite  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet.  There  were  seats  for  eiahtv  thousand 
people,  and  standing  room  for  twenty  thousand  more.  The 
opening  carnival  of  this  theater  lasted  one  hundred  days,  and 
was  attended  with  a  sacrifice  of  fifty  thousand  beasts.  There 
are  subterranean  ways  through  which  beasts  and  gladiators 
were  led  into  the  arena.     The   arena  was  also   elliptical  iu 


O 
O 


3 

D 

O 
fa 

o 

K 


cc 


t=s. 


Bttainaaa 


23 


354  ^OME. 

form,  and  measured  two  hundred  and  eighty  by  one  hundred 
and  seventy-four  feet.  There  are  many  rooms  beneath  the 
floor  of  the  arena,  and  here  an  idea  may  be  obtained  of  the 
massive  character  of  the  foundations.  Since  boyhood  I  had 
read  of  these  famous  ruins,  but  after  all  was  not  prepared  for 
a  sight  of  such  impressive  vastness  and  magnificence.  And 
not  the  least  impressive  was  the  thought  of  the  many  thou- 
sands who  had  here  given  their  lives  as  a  testimony  of  their 
unvieldins;'  faith  in  Jesus. 

The  famous  Aj^pian  AVay  starts  from  the  Arch  of  Constantino, 
which  stands  very  near  the  Colosseum.  It  is  an  old  Roman 
road  running  to  the  south  and  southwest.  Over  it  St.  Paul 
w^as  brought  to  Ptome  in  captivity.  It  is  lined  with  celebrated 
ruins,  the  most  renowned  of  which  are  the  majestic  buildings 
of  the  Baths  of  Caracalla  and  the  catacombs.  The  latter  are 
subterranean  burying-places  consisting  of  passageways  cut  in 
the  rocks,  perhaps  thirty  feet  under  ground,  which  ramify  in 
every  direction,  crossing  each  other  at  every  angle.  They  are 
very  extensive.  There  are  some  chambers  in  which  early 
Christians  used  to  meet  for  w^orship.  It  is  a  dreary  place  to 
visit,  and  one  cannot  repress  the  nervous  fear  that  the  guide 
will  lose  his  way,  in  which  case  escape  w^ould  seem  impossible. 
One  is  therefore  generally  glad  to  reach  the  surface  again. 
Put  we  will  return  to  the  Via  Sacra.  Leaving  the  Arch  of 
Constantine,  which  was  mostly  built  by  the  destruction  of  that 
of  Trajan,  a  better  man  than  Constantine,  we  ascend  a  gentle 
slope  toward  the  w^est,  having  ruins  of  shops  and  bazaars  on 
the  left  and  those  of  the  temple  of  Rome  on  the  right.  Reach- 
ing the  brow  of  the  hill,  we  pass  under  the  Arch  of  Titus  built 
by  Vespasian  to  celebrate  the  victory  of  Titus  in  the  capture 
of  Jerusalem.  This  structure,  which  is  still  quite  complete, 
has  a  peculiar  value  as  a  witness  of  the  truthfulness  of  the 
Bible  record  ;  for  among  the  fisures  wdiich  illustrate  Titus's 


o 
r 
c 

a 
s 

c 


o 


CO 
on 


856  liOME. 

triumi^h  are  men  bearing  the  treasures  from  the  temple,  and 
among  them  is  phiinly  depicted  the  golden  candlestick.  It  is 
positiA^e  evidence  that  such  an  article  existed  ;  and  this  in  turn 
proves  the  existence  of  the  temple  and  its  services,  thus  es- 
tablishing beyond  dispute  the  history  and  ceremonies  outlined 
in  the  Old  Testament. 

From  this  point  we  look  west  over  the  valley  in  which  are 
the  Roman  Forum,  and  the  ruins  of  numerous  temples  and 
churches,  to  describe  which  would  exceed  the  space  at  our 
disposal.  At  the  eastern  end  of  the  forum  is  the  rostrum  of 
Julius  Caesar,  from  which  Mark  Antony  delivered  his  impas- 
sioned address.  At  the  western  end  is  the  old  Roman  rostrum, 
from  which  thundered  the  stirring  eloquence  of  the  orators  and 
statesmen.  On  either  end  of  the  rostrum  are  the  remains  of  a 
column.  The  one  to  the  left  was  called  the  Umhilicus  Romce, 
and  was  one  of  the  many  famed  centers  of  the  world.  From 
this  point,  distances  were  measured  to  all  parts  of  the  great 
Roman  empire,  and  the  principal  ones,  it  is  said,  were  re- 
corded on  the  pillar  at  the  opposite  end  of  the  rostrum.  Here 
I  saw  illustrated  the  significance  of  the  word  "  rostrum."  Its 
primary  meaning  is  the  "  beak  of  a  bird ; "  it  also  means  the 
"  prow  of  a  vessel."  In  the  edge  of  the  platform  are  to  be 
seen  several  mortises  in  which  were  placed  tenons  to  hold  in 
place  the  prows  of  vessels  which  had  been  captured  by  the 
Romans  in  a  naval  battle.  And  from  this  circumstance  our 
word  "rostrum  "  comes.  So  also  our  word  "  capitol  "  was  said 
to  have  risen  from  the  fact  that  while  excavating  on  the  hill 
called  the  Cnpitoline,  on  which  the  capitol  of  Rome  was  after- 
ward built,  a  skull  was  found  wearing  a  brass  band,  upon 
which  was  the  name  Stolinus.  And  Cajmt  (head)  Stolinus  be- 
came  Capitol. 

Several  colonnades  still  remain  in  this  valley  marking  the 
ruins  of  the  temples  of  Concord,  of  Saturn,  Castor  and  Pollux, 


C. 


358  ROME. 

and  others.  As  we  climb  the  Capitoline  Hill,  we  pass  the 
door  of  a  church,  and  enterino-  the  vestibule,  pay  the  priest  a 
small  sum  and  receive  two  little  candles  by  the  liiiht  of  which 
we  descend  into  the  old  Mamertine  Prison.  The  first  apart- 
ment consists  of  a  rock-hewn  room  of  comfortable  size,  but 
void  of  natural  light.  This  was  the  prison,  and  just  beneath 
this  was  the  inner  prison,  or  dungeon.  Formerly  the  only 
entrance  to  this  was  a  circular  opening  in  the  floor  about  two 
feet  in  diameter,  through  which  prisoners  were  dropped,  and 
out  of  which  they  were  drawn  if  they  ever  emerged  from  the 
place,  which  was  not  usual.  This  place  is  now  entered  by  a 
stairway,  and  consists  of  a  round  room  fifteen  feet  across, 
seven  feet  in  height  in  the  middle,  but  lower  at  the  walls. 
An  iron  door  opens  from  this  room  to  a  passage-way  lead- 
ing to  the  celebrated  Roman  sewer,  which  empties  into  the 
Tiber.  Into  this  dungeon,  many  hapless  men  were  thrust  never 
again  to  see  the  light  of  day.  Very  many  were  strangled  and 
dragged  through  the  passage-way  to  the  se\ver.  Tradition  has 
it,  upon  what  seems  to  be  good  authority,  that  the  upper 
apartment  was  the  place  in  which  Paul  the  apostle  was  con- 
fined by  Nero,  and  from  which  he  was  taken  to  his  death. 
Roman  Catholic  tradition  claims  that  both  Paul  and  Peter 
were  imprisoned  in  the  lower  dungeon. 

A  visit  to  the  Palatine  Hill  is  of  the  utmost  interest,  for 
it  carries  one  through  the  ruins  of  the  palaces  of  the  emperors. 
From  it  is  obtained  a  view  of  the  great  circus  built  by  Augus- 
tus. Here,  too,  we  obtain  glimpses  of  what  are  said  to  be 
portions  of  the  original  wall  of  Rome,  and  the  cave  in  which 
the  wolf  nursed  Romulus  and  Remus.  Here  are  traces  of 
Etruscan  buildings,  and  the  valley  beyond  is  said  to  be  the 
scene  of  strife  between  the  Sabines  and  the  Romans. 

But  to  many  the  Rome  of  a  later  period  will  be  of  greater 
interest.     The  central  figure  in  mediaeval  Rome  is  St.  Peter's 


ST.   PETER'S.  359 

church,  the  noblest  structure  of  its  kind,  if  not  of  aii}^  other 
kind,  on  the  globe.  This  building  stands  on  the  spot  where 
it  is  claimed  that  Peter  suffered  martyrdom.  It  covers  nearly 
four  acres  of  land  and  is  said  to  have  cost  in  construction  fifty 
million  dollars.  It  was  consecrated  in  its  present  form  in 
1626,  just  one  thousand  three  hundred  years  after  its  founda- 
tions were  laid.  The  church  is  built  in  the  form  of  a  cross. 
The  nave  is  six  hundred  and  four  feet  in  length,  and  the  tran- 
sept two  hundred  and  sixty.  The  height  of  the  arched  ceiling 
is  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  floor.  The  dome  rises 
four  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  and  people  may  ascend  in  what 
looks  from  the  ground  to  be  a  flag-staff  to  the  copper  ball, 
which  will  hold  sixteen  persons  at  once.  Beneath  the  main 
dome  is  a  noble  bronze  canopy  built  over  a  splendid  altar. 
This  canopy  is  ninety  feet  in  height.  The  frescoes  are  largely 
done  in  mosaics,  and  include  historical  scenes  wonderfully 
wrought  out.  The  mosaics  were  to  me  the  most  remarkable 
feature  of  the  buildings.  Of  course  we  saw  the  statue  of  St. 
Peter  sitting  upon  a  pedestal  four  feet  high,  accommodatingly 
placing  his  foot  so  that  it  projected  in  a  very  convenient  posi- 
tion for  kissing  the  toe.  A  multitude  of  people  take  the  hint. 
A  continual  procession  pass  to  the  statue,  deposit  their  oscula- 
tory  sacrifice,  and  depart.  In  this  manner  the  great  toe  has 
been  entirely  worn  away  and  some  portions  of  other  toes  have 
also  disappeared.  Near  the  main  entrance,  in  the  middle  of 
the  floor,  is  placed  a  dark,  circular  stone  upon  which  many  of 
the  emperors  of  Rome  have  been  crowned. 

To  the  right  as  one  enters  St.  Peter's,  is  the  Vatican  palace, 
the  residence  of  the  pope.  Between  the  church  and  the  palace 
is  the  celebrated  Sistine  chapel,  in  which  the  popes  are  elected. 
The  frescoes  of  this  chapel  are  mostly  by  that  great  Italian, 
Michael  Angelo,  painter,  sculptor,  architect,  and  poet.  At-tlio 
farther  end  of  the  wall  is  the  celebrated  painting  of  the  Judg- 


H 

^ 


o 


JSISTJXL'    CHAPEL.  361 

ment,  a  picture  witli  a  world-wide  renown.  The  arched  ceiling 
is  covered  with  a  representation  of  creation  week.  In  the 
former  picture  the  great  Judge  of  the  earth  is  represented  in 
the  center,  while  in  the  left-hand  corner  people  are  coming  out 
of  their  graves.  Among  these  the  artist  placed  himself,  with 
his  hand  resting  upon  Dante's  head.  The  righteous  are  as- 
cending from  the  judgment  into  glory,  while  the  lost  are  being 
plunged  to  perdition  at  the  right  of  the  observer,  though  at  the 
left  of  the  Judge.  Among  these  unhappy  ones  is  shown  a 
monk  contemporary  with  Angelo,  against  whom  he  had  an  ill 
feeling.  It  is  said  that  the  monk  remonstrated,  but  the  artist 
would  make  no  change.  The  pope  was  appealed  to,  but  he  re- 
plied that  if  the  artist  had  simply  sent  him  to  purgatory  he 
could  help  him,  but  since  he  was  sent  to  final  perdition  noth- 
ing could  be  done,  and  so  it  remains  to  this  day. 

Adjoining  the  chapel  is  "the  Vatican  library  and  art  gallery, 
but  to  attempt  any  description  of  these  would  be  beyond  oar 
design.  The  treasures  of  the  ages  are  here,  and  vast  indeed 
is  their  store.  To  the  rear  of  the  church,  and  some  distance 
removed,  is  the  sculpture  gallery,  of  the  extent  of  which  some 
idea  will  be  sfained  by  the  statement  that  there  are  more  than 
one  mile  of  corridors  crowded  with  the  most  celebrated  works 
of  art  from  every  country  and  from  every  age. 

St.  Peter's  and  its  surroundings  are  utterly  beyond  descrip- 
tion for  grandeur  and  vastness.  Many  days  of  constant  visit- 
ing would  not  exhaust  the  interest  and  wonder  which  the 
accumulated  treasures  excite.  It  is  said  that  in  trinkets, 
ornaments,  and  various  treasures  there  is  more  gold  accumu- 
lated there  than  is  in  circulation  in  the  kingdom  of  Italy. 

Many  other  churches  in  Rome  are  Avorthy  of  mention  even 
in  connection  with  this  one.  That  of  St.  John  in  Lateran  is 
even  more  celebrated  in  the  early  history  of  the  church.  Four 
miles  outside  the  old  Avails  is  St.  Paul's,  and  near  the  center 


W 

N 
H 


Tj 


O 


ITALY'S  POVERTY.  363 

of  the  city,  St.  Maggiore.  These  churches  contain  ;;iul  repre- 
sent in  their  structure  almost  incalculable  wealth.  Their 
priests  serve  in  great  pomp,  clothed  in  splendid  robes  Avhich 
glisten  with  jewels  and  gold.  Besides  those  mentioned,  there 
are  scattered  through  the  city  other  costly  worshiping  estab- 
lishments Avhich  in  any  other  city  would  attract  wide  atten- 
tion. The  Church  of  Rome  is  strongly  entrenched  in  her 
ancient   seat. 

For  some  years  the  government  has,  to  the  joy  of  the  peo- 
ple, been  out  of  the  hands  of  the  church.  But  the  efforts  to 
erect  a  respectable  government  have  involved  Italy  in  a  hope- 
less entanglement  of  insolvency.  The  financial  policy  of  the 
rulers  has  not  been  wise.  The  exigencies  of  the  present 
military  situation  have  forced  intolerable  burdens  upon  the 
poor  people.  The  public  debt  amounts  to  eighty  dollars  per 
capita,  and  the  annual  interest  is  three  dollars  and  fifty  cents 
for  each  man,  woman,  and  child.  The  common  necessities  of 
life  are  exorbitantly  taxed  to  produce  a  revenue  which  always 
comes  short  of  meeting  the  outlays.  Notwithstanding  this, 
and  the  untold  poverty  of  the  masses,  there  is  sufficient  money 
invested  in  the  churches  to  redeem  the  public  credit,  relieve 
the  exchequer,  render  the  country  happy,  and  feed  the  poor 
with  bread  in  plenty.  But  it  is  hoarded  in  the  name  of  Him 
who  though  he  was  rich,  became  poor  that  we  through  his  pov- 
erty might  be  rich. 

Italy  is  a  beautiful  and  favored  country  ;  but  Satan  early 
took  his  seat  there;  and  through  his  agents  civil  and  ecclesias- 
tical, he  has  made  it  the  active  scene  of  his  machinations 
throughout  its  history.  In  no  place  is  the  gospel  of  peace 
and  purity  more  needed  than  in  Italy. 

Florence,  Venice,  Genoa,  Pisa,  Milan,  besides  Naples  and 
Rome,  are  cities  in  Italy  which  all  travelers  wish  to  visit, 
though  some  of  them  will  hardly  repay  the  trouble. 


o 


FLOREXTINE    GALLERIES.  365 

From  Rome  we  go  to  Florence.      The  jo.nrney  is  ;i  [)lea8;mt 

railway  ride    of   six    hours    throuuh    an    interestinn'   conntrv. 

.  I-  <-^  , 

The  galleries  of  this  eit}^  give  it  pre-eminence  as  the  great 
center  of  art.  The  Ufizzi,  or  Florentine,  gallery  contains 
twentv-three  chambers  richlv  stored  with  the  works  of  the  old 
masters  of  painting  and  sculpture.  One  of  these,  the  Tribune, 
contains  the  richest  of  all  treasures,  embracing  several  paint- 
ings by  Raphael  and  the  celebrated  statue  of  the  Venus  de 
Medici.  This  famous  work  was  taken  in  fragments  from  the 
ruins  of  an  old  Roman  villa,  and  was  held  by  the  Medici 
family,  from  whom  it  was  purchased  by  the  government.  In 
one  room  are  two  tables  of  Florentine  mosaics,  the  price  paid 
the  Medicis  for  one  being  nine  hundred  thousand  francs,  and 
the  price  of  the  other,  five  hundred  thousand  francs.  Con- 
nected with  the  Ufizzi  gallery  by  a  covered  foot-bridge  across 
the  river  Arno  is  the  almost  equally  celebrated  Pitti  gallery, 
also  owned  by  the  government.  Another  place  of  interest  is 
the  studio  and  office  of  Michael  Angelo,  remaining  as  he  used 
them.  The  place  wdiere  he  did  his  ^vriting  would  make  but  a 
small  pantry.  The  wooden  bench  on  which  he  sat,  and  the 
little  desk  at  which  he  wrote  are  still  there.  Portraits  of 
himself  by  himself  hanii"  about  the  rooms,  and  show  him  witli 
a  broken  nose  which  he  received  in  a  fracas  witli  another 
artist,  for  he  w^as  a  man  of  fiery  temper.  But  as  a  genius  he 
has  had  but  few  if  any  equals.  He  died  in  1563,  and  no  ni.ni 
is  more  highly  honored  in  the  memory  of  his  countrymen,  not 
only  for  his  genius,  but  for  his  benevolence  and  pliilanthro|ty. 
St.  Groce's  church,  in  Florence,  contains  the  tomb  of 
Michael  Angelo,  and  above  it  is  a  desion  in  marble  bv  himself, 
executed  by  a  pupil,  in  which  three  figures  representing  jDaint- 
ing,  poetry,  and  sculpture  sit  looking  with  sorrow  upon  the 
grave.  So  perfect  is  the  representation  of  grief  that  tears 
came  to  my  eyes  as  I  looked  upon  what  w^as  to  me  the  most 


o 


A 


OUT   OF  ITALY.  3(37 

wonderful  revelation  in  marble  I  have  ever  seen.  In  front 
of  the  .same  church  stands  a  majestic  statue  of  Dante,  and 
within  the  church  lie  the  remains  of  Galileo,  and  other 
famous  men. 

The  beautiful  surroundings  of  Florence,  the  uniform  cour- 
tesy of  its  citizens,  and  its  balmy  air,  together  with  the  vast 
treasures  of  art,  make  it  an  attractive  place  for  visitors. 

The,  only  other  stop  we  will  make  in  Italy  on  this  trip  is 
at  Milan.  This  city  is  about  seven  hours  from  Florence  by 
rail.  The  route  lies  across  the  Appenine  Mountains,  where 
enchanting  views  of  picturesque  scenery  are  obtained.  The 
city  of  Bologna,  celebrated  for  its  sausages,  is  passed.  Its 
cathedral,  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world,  is  the  one  chief  attrac- 
tion in  Milan. 

From  this  point  we  took  the  famous  St.  Gotthard  Tunnel 
route  across 'the  Alps.  The  day  proved  to  be  all  that  could 
be  desired,  and  the  scenery  grand  beyond  description.  After 
passing  the  beautiful  Lake  Como,  we  reach  the  Swiss  border 
at  Chiasso,  where  customs  are  collected.  After  this  Lakes 
Lugano  and  Maggiore  were  passed.  Nestling  among  the  moun- 
tains,  they  present  scenes  of  rarest  beauty.  The  railway 
undertakes  the  ascent  to  the  St.  Gotthard  Pass  through  the 
valley  of  the  brawling  Ticino.  But  the  river  descends  more 
abruptly  than  the  railway  can  climb,  hence  it  is  necessary  to 
gain  altitude  by  bold  engineering  devices.  There  are  four 
loop  tunnels,  where  the  line  strikes  directly  into  the  heart  of 
the  mountains,  and  performing  a  circle  of  tw^o  or  three  miles, 
emerges  directly  over  the  entrance  place,  having  gained  perhaps 
sixty  or  seventy  feet  in  height  by  the  maneuver.  The  mouths 
of  two  of  these  tunnels  are  shown  in  the  engraving. 

Continually  the  traveler  is  impressed  by  the '  stupendous  " 
mountains  on  every  hand.     The  tunnels  are  numerous,  but  the 
most  extended  one  is  at  the  summit  under  the  St.  Gotthard 


3G8 


ROME. 


Pass.  This  tunnel  is  nine  and  one  fourth  miles  in  length  and 
its  passage  requires  eighteen  to  twenty  minutes.  In  the  mid- 
dle the  greatest  altitude  is  reached  at  three  thousand  seven 
hundred  and  eighty-six  feet  above  the  sea. 

Emerging  on  the  north  side,  we  found  a  veritable  northern 
winter  waiting  to  receive  us  —  deep  snows  and  cold  winds. 
The  valley  of  the  Reuss  rapidly  conducted  us  to  the  beautiful 
shores  of  lakes  Zug  and  Lucerne.  And  at  the  close  of  the 
day  our  train  reached  the  city  of  Lucerne.  It  had  been  a  day 
long  to  be  remembered.  There  are  scenes  of  majestic  grand- 
eur in  various  parts  of  the  world,  but  probably  nothing  that 
out-Switzerlands  Switzerland. 


Drying  Macaroni  (Soe  page  3-15). 


HOMEWARD  AND  BACKWARD. 


PON  reaching  Switzerland,  old-time  friends  were 
ready  with  hearty  greetings,  which  gave  me  the 
first  realization  that  the  homeward  stretch  had  now 
been  begun.  Lucerne  was  the  first  stopping-place, 
but  my  stay  here  was  short,  for  the  hospitable  firesides  of 
former  associates  awaited  me  in  Basle.  Beyond  this  were  also 
the  even  stronger  attractions  of  home,  and  the  urgent  call  of 
duties  awaiting  me  there.  Switzerland  Vvvas  robed  in  winter 
garments.  There  was  nearly  one  foot  of  snow,  an  unusual 
condition  for  that  country  ;  so  that  there  was  not  the  best  op- 
portunity to  view  the  famous  beauty  of  the  mountain  scenery. 
Consequently,  after  a  brief  visit  with  friends,  the  journey 
was  resumed.  It  was  left  for  the  following  summer  to  com- 
plete the  European  tour,  when  circumstances  would  be  more 
favorable.  We  shall  therefore  pass  rapidly  over  the  trip  to 
the  United  States,  and  return,  taking  up  the  account  at  a  later 
time  where  we  now  leave  it  oft\ 

A  brief  trip  to  the  Jura  Mountains  afforded  a  good  idea  of 
what  Swiss  winter  scenery  is  like.  A  friend  accompanied  me 
to  near  the  French  line,  where  he  saw  me  on  board  the  train 
for  Paris. 

That  day  in  France  was  one  of  the  most  trying  of  the  entire 
trip.  The  cars  had  no  stoves,  the  day  was  bitterly  cold,  and 
the  snow  blew  fiercely,  and  blocked  our  way  so  that  the  trains 
were  several  hours  late.  It  is  true  that  tin  flasks  of  hot  water 
were  supplied  for  our  feet,  but  these  soon  cooled  off,  and  to 
•U  [369] 


o 


ACROS.S    THE  ATLANTIC.  371 

make  matters  worse  the  French  language  was  altogether  out 
of  mv  range.  After  seA'eral  ludicrous  episodes  and  much 
worry  Paris  was  reached  and  passed  with  just  time  enough  to 
drive  rapidly  from  one  station  to  another.  On  our  way  to  the 
coast  our  train  was  snowbound  for  some  hours,  but  the  little 
steamer  for  the  English  shores  was  waiting  for  us,  and  early 
next  day  London  was  reached  and  other  kind  friends  were 
found.  A  brief  stop  was  made  here,  and  then  came  the  trip 
across  the  Atlantic. 

There  were  among  the  passengers  two  brothers,  who  after 
many  years  of  faithful  work  were  now  takino-  their  first  holi- 
day  trip.  They  had  leave  of  absence  for  three  weeks,  and 
chose  to  take  three  fourths  of  the  time  in  crossing  and 
recrossing  the  Atlantic  in  February.  It  is  said  that  ''  there 
is  no  accounting  for  tastes  ;  "  but  of  all  the  strange  freaks 
in  the  way  of  choosing  diversion,  this  seemed  about  the 
strangest.  They  were  different  from  another  passenger  who 
came  on  board  at  Liverpool.  He  moved  into  his  stateroom . 
but  the  lively  gale  blowing  up  the  Mersey  was  too  much  for 
his  courage,  and  though  forfeiting  his  fare,  he  ordered  his 
things  removed  to  the  tender,  declaring  that  he  was  just  as 
near  New  York  as  he  wanted  to  be.  The  most  of  us  honored 
his  judgment  before  we  got  across. 

The  absence  of  five  years  made  the  privilege  of  greeting 
old  friends  especially  dear.  But  in  July  tickets  were  bought 
for  London  again,  though  on  this  trip  the  loneliness  of  travel 
was  broken  by  the  companionship  of  a  company  of  friends. 

If  the  world  has  but  one  point  of  magnetic  attraction,  that 
point  is  London.  If  one  were  required  to  indicate  that  spot 
w^here  the  most  of  this  world,  past  and  present,  can  be  seen  in 
the  smallest  space,  he  would  always  say,  London.  If  the 
world  were  to  be  asked.  What  city  exerts  the  widest  influence 
in  the   commercial  world  ?    the    universal   answer  would  be, 


o 

o 
a 
/^ 

o 


SIGHTS  IN  LOXDON. 


373 


London  ;  and  if  the  query  were  extended  to  the  political  world, 
the  answer  in  most  cases  would  he  the  same. 

But  the  ground  has  been  tramped  over  and  over  again  by 
travelers,  and  it  is  not  our  purpose  to  take  time  to  describe 


Westminster  Abbey. 


that  which  is  perfectly  familiar  to  the  average  reader ;  hence 
with  a  few  views  of  some  of  its  principal  features,  we  shall 
pass  on.  There  is  London  Bridge,  the  most  celebrated  viaduct 
in  the  world  ;  London  Tower,  stored  with  historical  relics,  and 
the  scene  of  many  tales  of  cruelty  and  heroism.     There   is 


HOLLAND.  375 

Westminster  Abbey,  and  hard  by  the  House  of  Purlianioiit,  the 
British  Museum,  and  places  of  simihir  though  perhaps  lesser 
interest,  almost  without  number. 

After  a  brief  stay  in  the  English  capital,  our  journey  was 
resumed  into  Holland.  This  country  has  been  stolen  from  the 
sea.  At  least  much  of  it  is  below  the  surface  of  the  ocean, 
and  strong  dykes  are  required  to  keep  the  ocean  from  reclaim- 
ing its  lost  territory.  There  are  few  sights  in  the  world  more 
strange  than  the  very  common  one  in  Holland  of  great  ships 
sailing  along  streams  and  canals  whose  surfaces  are  six  or  eight 
feet  above  the  land.  Riding  by  train  or  carriage,  one  is  sur- 
prised to  look  up  and  see  ocean  steamers  stalking  along  above 
him.  The  land  thus  situated  is  very  fertile  but  is  too  moist 
fjr  many  of  the  common  crops,  so  that  much  of  it  is  devoted 
to  grazing.  Fine  herds  of  Holstein  cattle  cover  the  meadows 
and  furnish  produce  for  the  London  market. 

Rotterdam  is  a  strange  old  town.  The  unstable  character 
of  the  soil  causes  the  heavy  buildings  gradually  to  careen  one 
way  or  another,  giving  to  the  city  a  rather  crazy  appearance. 
In  this  city,  as  well  as  in  others  of  Holland,  they  utilize  their 
canals  for  local  traffic,  consequently  their  streets  ure  not  cum- 
bered with  the  noisy  freight-carting  that  forms  so  disagreeable 
a  feature  of  ordinary  city  life.  The  engraving  shows  one  of 
these  water  highways.  On  land,  dogs  are  harnessed  to  hand- 
carts with  which  those  who  deal  in  vegetables,  fruit,  and  milk, 
travel  about.  The  dogs  furnish  the  motive  power  for  these 
vehicles  while  the  proprietor  acts  as  steersman. 

A  notable  peculiarity  of  the  country  is  the  head-dress  of 
some  of  the  aristocratic  dames  who  wear  a  cap  of  brass  or 
perhaps  gold-plated  metal  in  the  form  of  a  night-cap.  These 
are  heirlooms,  and  are  highly  esteemed  as  having  been 
handed  down  through  generations,  and  their  possession  is  a 
mark   of  honor. 


o 


o 

CO 


HAMBURG.  377 

As  wo  retire  from  the  coast,  the  land  rises  ;  and  before  we- 
reach  the  German  border,  it  becomes  sandy  and  barren.  About 
fourteen  hours  from  Amsterdam  took  iis  to  Hamburg,  the 
great  seaport  of  Germany,  though  three  hours  of  the  time  was 
PlDent  waiting  for  the  train.  Witli  its  suburbs  Hamburg  con- 
tains over  seven  hundred  thousand  inhabitants.  Recently,  or 
since  the  great  cholera  plague,  much  pains  and  money  have 
been  expended  in  beautifying  the  city  and  rendering  it  cleanly, 
healthful,  and  in  every  way  attractive.  The  efforts  have  been 
very  successful  in  each  respect.  Hamburg  is  situated  on 
the  Elbe  River,  seventv-tive  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  laro- 
est  ocean  steamers  do  not  ascend  the  river  to  Hamburg,  but 
are  reached  by  rail.  But  the  river  and  a  splendid,  commodious 
harbor  are  crowded  with  shipping  from  all  the  world.  Ham- 
burg contains  a  free  jiort  costing  thirty  thousand  dollars. 
Into  its  W'arehouses  goods  may  be  shipped  without  paying 
duties  until  they  are  removed  and  carried  into  Germany.  K 
reshipped  to  other  countries,  goods  are  not  liable  to  duties. 
Hamburg  is  a  free  state,  and  its  government  is  republican, 
though  as  a  member  of  the  German  federation,  it  is  subject  to 
the  imperial  authority. 

Hamburg  is  a  thoroughly  German  city.  The  people  are 
attached  to  their  beer  and  other  pleasures,  but  are  orderly 
among  themselves  and  polite  to  the  stranger. 

From  Hamburg  our  route  took  us  to  the  stronirlv  fortified 
port  of  Kiel,  on  the  Baltic  Sea,  in  whose  harbor  lay  a  large  num- 
ber of  German  men-of-war.  From  there  we  took  boat  to  the 
island  of  Sjaelland  (Zealand),  Denmark,  on  which  the  beautiful 
city  of  Kjobenhavn  (Copenhagen)  is  located.  This  city  has 
many  attractions,  and  is  justly  celebrated  for  its  cleanliness. 
It  contains  many  relics  of  historical  value,  the  Rosenberg 
Castle  being  richly  stored  with  mementoes  which  convey  to  the 
visitor  by  a  grand  object  lesson  a  long  story  of  Danish  history. 


O  »-  Q 


llOMEWAIU)   AXD   BACKWARD. 


Returning  to  Hamburg,  or  if  one  prefers,  sailing  to  Stettin 
and  thence  by  rail,  we  next  make  for  Berlin,  the  great  German 
capital.  Our  party  chose  the  former  route.  Between  the  two 
great  German  cities  much  of  the  land  is  of  a  sandy  character, 


KOSENBERG    CaSTLE.     COPENHAGEN- 


and  poorly  adapted  to  the  support  of  the  great  population  it 
bears.  This  same  low,  sandy  valley  extends  from  the  western 
shores  of  the  continent  eastward  through  Germany  and  Russia 
to  Sib<3ria.  Berlin  is  a  magnificent  city,  because  it  has  been 
made  the  worthy  capital  of  a  great  nation,  rather  than  from  any 


LUTHER'S    GROUND.  370 

beauty  that  it  possesses  from  its  situation.  Its  galleries  and 
public  buildings  are  noble,  and  "  Unter  den  Linden  "  is  one 
of  the  most  celebrated  streets  in  the  world. 

Leaving  Berlin  with  its  famous  and  t^xmiliar  attractions, 
we  hasten  on  to  the  more  unassuming  but  not  less  interesting 
town  of  Wittenburg,  the  scene  of  Luther's  struggles  for  liberty 
of  conscience  and  the  faith  of  Jesus.  Here  is  the  church  in 
which  he  preached,  on  the  doors  of  which  he  nailed  the  theses, 
and  in  which  he,  with  the  mild-tempered  Mehmcthon,  lies 
buried.  Here  is  the  monastery  and  school  where  the  rays  of 
light  broke  into  his  soul,  and  where  he  lived  with  his  "lord 
Catherine,"  and  taught  the  truth  he  loved.  A  spreading  oak 
covers  the  spot  wdiere  Luther  is  said  to  have  burned  the 
pope's  bull.  In  the  center  of  the  city  stands  the  ancient 
"  Stadt  Kirche,"  and  by  its  side  a  little  chapel  said  to  be  six 
hundred  years  old. 

Pursuing  our  journey  toward  the  Rhine,  we  come  to 
Eisenach,  another  place  made  f\imous  by  the  life  of  the  great 
Reformer.  This  neat  but  quaint  old  village  stands  at  the  foot 
of  a  mountain  one  thousand  three  hundred  feet  high  that  rises 
out  of  the  plain.  This  mountain  is  called  the  Wartburg,  from 
the  celebrated  old  castle  that  crowns  its  summit.  It  was  in 
this  castle  that  Luther  was  held  in  friendly  confinement  by 
the  Elector  Frederick,  to  save  him  from  the  wrath  of  his 
enemies.  One  of  the  engravings  shows  the  castle  as  it  ap- 
pears from  the  south.  The  other  shows  the  room  in  which 
Luther  lived  for  ten  months,  and  in  which  he  translated  the 
Scriptures.  The  tall  stove  stands  in  the  corner,  the  canopied 
bed  is  in  the  foreground.  There  stand  his  table,  his  chair, 
and  his  footstool.  The  latter  is  a  section  of  the  vertebra  of  a 
whale.  The  patch  in  the  wall  is  pointed  out  as  the  spot 
where  the  ink-bottle  struck  when  thrown  by  Luther  at  the 
devil.     Tourists  have   dug  away  the  plaster  and  timber,  but 


O 


P3 


X 


n 


o 

o 


382  HOMEWARD   AND   BACKWARD. 

the  practice  is  now  stopped,  for  the  buihling  would  soon  be 
wrecked  if  it  were  allowed  to  go  on, 

A  large  portion  of  Germany  consists  of  level  country  with 
high  places  rising  abruptly,  on  the  tops  of  which  are  the 
romantic  remains  of  old  castles.  These  are  relics  of  the 
feudal  times  when  chieftains  gathered  a  following  with  wiiich 
they  plundered  the  surrounding  country,  and  for  protection 
took  refuge  in  these  impregnable  fastnesses.  From  their 
heights  they  could  overlook  the  whole  region  and  watch  the 
approach  of  the  enemy. 

Offenburg,  Heidelberg,  Frankfort,  and  other  celebrated 
towns  must  be  passed  without  remark,  though  on  account  of 
its  peculiar  beauty  and  celebrated  institutions  of  learning, 
Heidelberg  is  worthy  of  special  attention. 

From  Offenburg  w^e  enter  the  noted  "  Schwarzwald," 
or  "  Black  Forest."  The  railway  to  Singen  climbs  to  a  lati- 
tude of  two  thousand  six  hundred  feet  over  a  line  that  is 
remarkable  for  its  beauty,  and  on  the  south  side  slopes  down 
into  the  Rhine  valley  by  an  easy  grade.  At  Schaffhausen  are 
the  beautiful  Rhine  Falls,  the  largest  waterfalls  in  Europe,  a 
fine  view  of  which  is  given  in  the  picture. 

Zurich,  Switzerland,  was  our  stopping  place  for  a  short 
time.  Here  we  visited  the  scenes  with  which  the  name  and 
memory  of  Zwingle  are  closely  associated.  In  the  arsenal  w^e 
were  shown  the  armor  in  which  he  went  to  the  battle  field, 
the  helmet  of  which  bears  the  gash  through  which  he  received 
his  death  wound.  Gross  Mlinster  is  the  name  of  Zwingle's 
old  church.  The  edifice  has  a  histor}^  that  reaches  back  to 
the  early  part  of  the  dispensation,  though  additions  have  been 
made  to  it  in  more  modern  times. 

The  city  is  picturesquely  situated  on  Lake  Ztirich,  where 
the  river  Limmat  emerges  from  the  lake  and  receives  the  rush- 
ing Sihl,  and  is  a  town  of  considerable  thrift  and  importance. 


CO 
CO 


&■}  I 


'}.(- 


'A 
H 


CO 
CO 


SWITZERLAND.  385 

Having  entered  Switzerland,  and  set  the  pen  to  the  task 
of  describing  this  wonderland  of  natnral  beauty,  we  find  it  to 
be  a  work  of  altogether  greater  magnitude  than  can  be  com- 
pleted in  the  little  that  is  left  of  the  space  devoted  to  this 
volume.  It  is  a  work  that  would  claim  a  volume  of  its  own. 
Many  such  volumes  have  been  written,  and  but  little  could  be 
said  that  has  not  been  told  by  numerous  enthusiastic  admirers 
of  the  beauties  of  nature  in  their  grandest  aspects.  Switzer- 
land stands  unrivaled  for  natural  scenery.  But  in  passing 
from  Zlirich  westward  through  Berne  to  Neuchatel,  one  trav- 
erses the  broad  valley  between  the  Alps  and  the  Rhine,  and 
that  between  the  Juras  and  the  Alps.  From  the  midst  of  this 
valley  the  snow'-white  tops  of  the  mountains  are  barely  visible. 
The  level  plain,  occupying  nearly  all  the  northern  half  of 
Switzerland,  ^ives  little  intimation  of  the  wild  scenes  which 
lie  just  beyond  its  southern  borders. 

The  roadways  of  Switzerland  deserve  the  high  reputation 
they  have  gained.  They  are  constructed  with  great  expense 
and  labor.  Railways  connect  all  important  towns,  and  are 
being  used  in  many  instances  to  scale  the  lofty  heights.  Of 
these  perhaps  the  most  famous  is  that  which  ascends  the  Rigi 
near  Lake  Lucerne.  There  are  several  similar  ones  in  opera- 
tion or  projection.  One  is  at  Territet,  at  the  east  end  of 
Lake  Geneva,  and  ascends  seven  thousand  feet  to  the  height 
of  Naye.  The  first  thousand  feet,  to  the  village  of  Glion,  is 
in  cars  drawn  by  a  cable  to  each  end  of  which  a  car  is  at- 
tached. One  descends  as  the  other  ascends,  and  the  cable 
power  is  supplied  by  a  mountain  stream.  At  Glion,  a  steam 
locomotive  with  cog  rail  takes  passengers  the  remainder  of  the 
distance.  It  is  a  peculiar  sensation  that  one  experiences 
when  he  first  feels  himself  thus  drawn  rapidly  from  earth 
toward  the  upper  world.  Speculations  as  to  his  probable  fate 
should  the  machinery  give  out,  will  assert  themselves. 

25 


o 
hj 
Hi 

M 

w 
o 

o 

w 


CO 
CO 


UP   THE  MOUNTAIN.  387 

From  the  narrow  peak  of  the  mountain  we  look  ahnost 
perpendicularly  down  into  the  lake  below.  As  our  train  was 
passing  along  a  narrow  ridge  near  the  top,  we  could  see  the 
lake  lying  thousands  of  feet  below  us  on  one  side,  and  on  the 
other  side  at  an  almost  equal  depth,  smiled  a  beautiful  Swiss 
A^alley,  On  the  return,  a  passing  cloud  came  up  from  the  lake 
at  this  point,  and  rested  against  the  railway,  so  that  out  of  one 
window  we  looked  into  an  impenetrable  bank  of  fog,  and  out 
of  the  other  into  a  lovely  A^alley  filled  with  sunshine.  A  few 
minutes'  walk  from  Territet  is  the  Castle  of  Chillon,  rendered 
famous  by  Byron's  poem. 

Temperance  people  in  touring  through  Switzerland  should 
always  provide  themselves  wdth  drinking  cups.  Gushing 
fountains  of  the  purest  cold  water  are  everywhere  seen,  but 
the  many  venders  of  wine  and  beer,  whose  shops  are  much 
more  plentiful  than  the  fountains,  have  taken  the  precaution  to 
see  that  no  cups  lie  about,  and  that  the  waters,  though  so 
near,  are  out  of  the  reach  of  thirsty  lips.  Geneva  Lake  or 
Lac  Lenian,  as  it  is  more  generally  called,  is  a  gem  of  beauty. 
Besides  the  cities  of  Lausanne  and  Geneva,  that  are  located 
upon  its  banks,  it  is  almost  encircled  by  smaller  towns.  Ev- 
erywhere the  hillsides  are  covered  with  vines  and  fruit-trees. 
The  Swiss  are  an  industrious  and  frugal  people,  and  have  ever 
been  compelled  to  make  the  utmost  out  of  their  limited  re- 
sources. They  have  enjoyed  their  remarkable  scenery;  their 
rugged  mountains  and  pure  atmosphere  produce  an  air  of 
freedom  and  independence.  But  even  the  thrifty  Swiss  peas- 
antry never  learned  the  secret  of  living  off  their  fine  scenery 
and  rare  air  until  American  tourists  taught  them  how.  Now 
thousands  of  Americans  and  Englishmen  pour  into  the  little 
republic  to  exchange  gold  for  the  privilege  of  gazing  at  the 
Schwitzer's  scenery  and  drinking  his  wine  and  goat's  milk, 
while  he  grows  fat  on  what  was  once  his  poverty. 


THE  RHINE.  389 

Any  one  visiting  Central  Europe  should  by  all  means  plan 
to  take  one  part  of  the  trip  by  steamer  on  the  Rhine.  For 
the  outward  journey  he  may  take  a  boat  early  in  the 
morning  at  Mayence ;  and  before  the  day  is  done,  he  will  have 
landed  at  Cologne,  below  which  the  river  flows  through  a 
level  country.  Between  those  cities  there  is  a  constant  pro- 
cession of  pleasant  surprises  on  every  hand.  A  busy  railway 
follows  each  bank  of  the  stream,  so  that  if  time  is  pressing, 
there  are  opportunities  to  leave  the  boat  for  faster  travel ;  but 
most  people  will  prefer  the  entire  trip  by  water.  Except  at  a 
few  points  the  rocky  banks  do  not  present  a  wild  appearance. 
One  of  these  exceptions  is  at  the  Lorelei,  so  widely  celebrated 
in  song  and  superstitious  tradition  as  the  place  wdiere  sailors 
were  in  ancient  times  lured  to  destruction  on  the  rocks  by  the 
siren  song  of  a  lovely  maiden.  For  most  of  the  distance,  the 
steep  sides  of  the  narrow  valley  are  terraced  and  covered  with 
vineyards.  Here  and  there,  on  some  bold  point  of  rocks, 
stand  the  ruins  of  old-time  castles,  the  builders  of  which 
plundered  the  adjacent  country,  and  levied  toll  upon  passing 
boats.  In  a  few  instances  these  have  been  preserved  or  re- 
stored so  as  to  be  still  inhabited,  and  are  surrounded  by  beau- 
tiful grounds.  Various  towns  are  passed  during  the  day,  at 
which  the  steamer  pauses  for  a  moment.  The  most  famous  of 
these  is  Coblentz,  at  the  junction  of  the  Moselle  River  with 
the  Rhine.  At  this  point  a  pontoon  bridge  has  been  thrown 
across  the  Rhine,  and  upon  the  opposite  shore  stands  a  rocky 
promontory  crowned  Avith  a  celebrated  fortress  called  Ehren- 
breitstein,  of  which  a  fine  view  is  given  in  the  engraving. 

A  few  miles  below  Mayence  is  the  widely  known  "  Bingen 
on  the  Rhine."  Opposite  the  town,  on  the  north  bank  of 
the  river,  stands  the  colossal  monument  erected  by  the  German 
government  to  celebrate  the  victory  over  the  French.  The 
French  despise  the  statue  as  heartily  as  the  Germans  admire  it. 


390  HOMEWARD   AXD   BACKWARD. 

Cologne  is  a  fine  city,  containing  a  noble  cathedral,  which 
for  beaiit}^  rivals  that  of  Milan,  though  of  different  architec- 
ture. These  buildings  are  grand  monuments  of  the  skill  and 
devotion  of  men.  They  represent  a  vast  outlay  of  money  and 
labor;  but  they  are  no  fit  memorials  of  the  religion  of  the 
meek  and  lowly  Jesus.  It  is  so  natural  to  pervert  the  talents 
which  are  given  us  for  the  glory  of  God  to  our  own  glory. 
Those  gloomy  halls  and  cloisters,  the  flying  buttresses  and 
lofty  spires,  speak  the  praise  of  men ;  but  God  is  better 
glorified  in  that  which  really  blesses  mankind  in  its  lost  and 
helpless  condition. 

Leaving  the  Rhine  at  this  point,  a  pleasant  day's  ride 
across  the  country  brings  us  once  more  to  Hamburg.  A  few 
days  in  this  beautiful  city  among  kind  friends  was  heartily 
enjoyed.  The  city  abounds  in  beautiful  parks.  A  fine  lake 
lies  in  the  midst  of  the  city.  The  harbor  is  not  only  full 
of  great  ships,  but  dodging  here  and  there  are  little  pleasure 
boats  which  make  a  business  of  transporting  people  about  the 
harbor.  Extensive  and  interesting  zoological  gardens  are  also 
amono^  the  attractions. 

At  this  point  w^e  bade  adieu  to  the  friends  in  the  Old 
World,  and  took  train  for  Cuxhaven,  where  we  found  one  of 
the  Hamburg-American  steamers  waiting  to  receive  us  and  to 
bear  us  safely  and  comfortably  over  the  broad  ocean.  Pass- 
ing through  the  English  channel,  we  touched  at  Southampton, 
and  in  due  time  were  once  more  at  home. 


Under  the  influences  of  the  powerful  forces  of  progress 
now  so  actively  at  work,  the  various  sections  of  the  earth  are 
being  brought  much  nearer  together  relatively  if  not  geo- 
graphically. And  as  the  distances  which  have  for  ages  sepa- 
rated them  as  almost  impassable  barriers  are  dispelled,  so 
strangeness,   national   antipathies,  and   prejudices   are   disap- 


SUMMING    UP. 


391 


pearing.  The  differences  between  races  are  those  of  educa- 
tion and  environment  rather  than  of  nature.  Distinctions  of 
coh^r  are  at  most  but  "  skin  deep."  Every  human  being  bears 
in  his  human  frame  the  image  of  his  Maker ;  and  in  liis  soul 
the  impress  of  the  divine  attributes.  True  it  is  that  the 
enemy  has  debased  the  human  and  ahnost  effaced  the  divine  ; 


Cologne  Cathedral. 


but  in  no  human  heart  is  the  smoking  flax  entirely  quenched. 

One  nation  has  no  occasion  to  glory  over  another.     None 

possess  any  powers  or  qualities  that  they  have  not  received. 

Our  talents  are  ours  only  as  a  trust ;  and  as  freely  as  we  have 


392 


HOMEWARD  AND   BACKWARD. 


received,  so  freely  let  us  give.  Every  man  is  equally  a  child 
of  God  hj  creation.  Every  man  is  included  in  the  price  paid 
for  the  redemption  of  the  race.  In  that  world  to  coine 
there  will  be  "  no  more  sea "  to  separate  men ;  there  will 
be  one  ''  pure  language ; "  there  will  be  "one  fold  and 
one  Shepherd."  The  nearer  men  and  nations  approach 
one  another  in  sympathy  and  universal  love,  the  more 
of  heaven  there  will  be  in  this  world.  The  more  we  are 
brought  in  contact  with  others  and  the  better  we  understand 
their  troubles,  their  struggles  with  adversity,  and  their  aspira- 
tions for  a  better  life,  the  more  active  our  sympathies  become. 
Thus  are  we  better  enabled  to  perceive  that  all  men  are 
members  of  one  family  ;  children  of  a  universal  Father. 


^ 


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THE  LIBRARY  OF  THE 

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